I just purchased an SX-62A and am looking for collective wisdom on the
following topics:
1 - Re-capping;
Is it necessary or recommended?
To what extent?
Any "problem children" hidden in inaccessable places?
Any "unobtanium" caps required?

2 - Dial cord re-stringing;
Do I need to grow extra fingers / hands?
Learn new and colorful language?
Dissassemble the silly thing so far as to wind up with a new source of
spare parts?

TIA,
Bill Powell

"Bill Powell" wrote in message
...
I just purchased an SX-62A and am looking for collective wisdom on the
following topics:
1 - Re-capping;
Is it necessary or recommended?

I would. Paper caps get leaky.


To what extent?

Replace all the paper and "black beauties". The under chassis electrolytics
are almost certainly dried out and should be replaced. The large aluminum
can power supply elecrolytic is probably at least iffy. It's still fine on
my SX-62 and the one on my parts chassis still tests good. Replace it if
you can't confirm it as good with a full voltage leakage tester and an ESR
meter or if you don't trust your luck.

I also installed fuses.


Any "problem children" hidden in inaccessable places?

The ones underneath the bandswitch are a little hard to get to. Taking off
the side skirt will help. You'll need a large soldering iron or gun to undo
the soldered connections on the skirt.

The replacement caps are usually smaller, and are easier to work back in.


Any "unobtanium" caps required?

No. But there are over 40 standard value paper caps to be replaced, if I
recall correctly.


2 - Dial cord re-stringing;
Do I need to grow extra fingers / hands?
Learn new and colorful language?
Dissassemble the silly thing so far as to wind up with a new source of
spare parts?

The dial cord is straightforward, but it sure uses alot of cord.
Replacement is time consuming, but not tricky, if you disassemble the front
section of the radio.

TIA,
Bill Powell


Frank Dresser

"Bill Powell" wrote in message
...
I just purchased an SX-62A and am looking for collective wisdom on the
following topics:
1 - Re-capping;
Is it necessary or recommended?

I would. Paper caps get leaky.


To what extent?

Replace all the paper and "black beauties". The under chassis electrolytics
are almost certainly dried out and should be replaced. The large aluminum
can power supply elecrolytic is probably at least iffy. It's still fine on
my SX-62 and the one on my parts chassis still tests good. Replace it if
you can't confirm it as good with a full voltage leakage tester and an ESR
meter or if you don't trust your luck.

I also installed fuses.


Any "problem children" hidden in inaccessable places?

The ones underneath the bandswitch are a little hard to get to. Taking off
the side skirt will help. You'll need a large soldering iron or gun to undo
the soldered connections on the skirt.

The replacement caps are usually smaller, and are easier to work back in.


Any "unobtanium" caps required?

No. But there are over 40 standard value paper caps to be replaced, if I
recall correctly.


2 - Dial cord re-stringing;
Do I need to grow extra fingers / hands?
Learn new and colorful language?
Dissassemble the silly thing so far as to wind up with a new source of
spare parts?

The dial cord is straightforward, but it sure uses alot of cord.
Replacement is time consuming, but not tricky, if you disassemble the front
section of the radio.

TIA,
Bill Powell


Frank Dresser

"Frank Dresser" wrote in message
=============
Frank:

I believe the reason that the main filter capacitor survives so long
in the SX-62 and SX-42 is its location. It is near the back of the
chassis behind the tuning capacitor, well away from any tubes or other
heat producers. Most sets put the filter can near the power
transformer, rectifier and audio output tubes where it gets roasted.

Best Regards,

Ed

"Frank Dresser" wrote in message
=============
Frank:

I believe the reason that the main filter capacitor survives so long
in the SX-62 and SX-42 is its location. It is near the back of the
chassis behind the tuning capacitor, well away from any tubes or other
heat producers. Most sets put the filter can near the power
transformer, rectifier and audio output tubes where it gets roasted.

Best Regards,

Ed

Replace all the paper and "black beauties". The under chassis
electrolytics
are almost certainly dried out and should be replaced. The large aluminum
can power supply elecrolytic is probably at least iffy.

For advice on recapping, see the article at
http://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm .

The SX-62 is similar to the SX-42. You may find the SX-42 restoration
article at http://antiqueradio.org/halli07.htm interesting.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Replace all the paper and "black beauties". The under chassis
electrolytics
are almost certainly dried out and should be replaced. The large aluminum
can power supply elecrolytic is probably at least iffy.

For advice on recapping, see the article at
http://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm .

The SX-62 is similar to the SX-42. You may find the SX-42 restoration
article at http://antiqueradio.org/halli07.htm interesting.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html