Hello Jim

I use a similar setup to make boards all the time and it works
reasonably well. No 8mil tracks tho.

15 mils is easy. 10 mils with some care. Below that, no promises.


The paper is made by Pulsar and is Digi-Key P/N 182-1003-ND. If
you want to try it get the "GreenTRF" film to go with it, P/N
182-1021-ND. The GreenTRF film is just applied over the toner after it
is transfered from the paper and leaves the image on the board
completely sealed with a glossy green finish. I believe the paper was
about $1 per 8.5x11 sheet and I don't remember how much the "GreenTRF"
cost me, but it wasn't much for an 8in by 15ft piece.

I use the glossy photo basic paper from Staples, or Costco, or Sam's Club,
or whatever branded private label -- it works better than the "premium"
variety photo paper for whatever reason. It all seems to work the same.
The trick is to use copper-brite scouring powder made specifically for
copper and brass along with one of those green dish scouring pads to clean
and microscratch the bejabbers out of the board before applying the resist.
It also helps to preheat the board for about 5 minutes at 150F in a toaster
oven after cleaning but before ironing on the resist.


I've been using ammonium persulfate for etchant and just picked up
some peroxide and acid so I can try making my own etchant.

I've used ferric chloride, ammonium persulfate, and muriatic acid - hydrogen
peroxide and I MUCH prefer the muriatic-peroxide combination. What I have
NOT perfected in the etch process yet is a method of agitation for the
etchant. Right now I'm using an aquarium with an air pump and a "bubbling
stone", but would love to find another method. Perhaps I'll work on a
magnet with shrink sleeving and RTV to seal the ends and another magnet on a
motor underneath the aquarium bottom. That seems like a lot of hassle for a
simple agitation, but I haven't found a better way.



I have a drill stand for my Dremel Moto-tool that was made by Dremel
that I use for drilling the boards. I use a #10 Opti-Visor and have no
trouble drilling the boards even with my pathetic eyesight. The etched
drill guide holes in the center of the pads really helps hitting the
holes dead center. With just a little care drills will last until they
get dull. As a matter of fact the only time I break one is when I get
careless trying to go too fast.

The school I teach for has a half dozen good PCB drills, so I'm not yet
forced into that corner. I've also got a BIG pcb shop down the hill a bit,
and they throw away carbide drills by the sackful. I've gotten them to
throw a few sacks my way.


Jim