There are set screw marks, The problem is knowing if they are from FULL
rotation, or one revolution of the shaft less.


Michael A. Terrell wrote:
sargent wrote:

Biting the bullet, and with a cup of coffee and a fresh cigar, I first
examined the free motion of each pawl. Last night, with a needle point
oiler, I had put a little thin oil on the pawls to soften up any old
grease. They all turned freely except the same two as before; these I
could not get to rotate seperately, even applying light pressure in
opposite directions. Therefore I removed the brass bushing holding the
washers in a stack on the drive shaft, and carefully removed the stack
of (6) pawls. The two that were stuck were REALLY stuck together, but I
was able to slide them apart between my thumb and index finger. There
was no corrosion between them, just dried grease. The ball bearing race
was also dry, so I cleaned it out, and relubed them with HO railroad
gear grease. Incidently, each of the (6) pawls is identical, so keeping
them properly stacked was not important. The only thing is that the
outer most must be engaged via a roll pin in the brass bushing when
reassembled. Ok, now I lost my train of thought, and ran the drive with
a screw driver to work in the new grease. MISTAKE! I forgot to note
whether the variable capacitor driven by all this was at min
capacitance or max capitance when the shaft was in the full
counter-clockwise position. So what is you best guess? Should I try MIN
or MAX capacitance for the fully counter-clockwise rotation(lowest
frequency)? I can change it later if wrong, but I would like to save
all the disassembly and reassembly if I can.


Aren't there marks on the capacitor shaft from the setscrews?


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida