On Jan 11, 1:59*pm, "NoSPAM" wrote:
"Art Unwin" wrote in message

...

"What I use on 7/8 hardline is a copper reducer with a barrel connecter
soldered into one end and then I screw the combination over the hard line..
Now you have an output from the hardline that can fit most things . One
time I filled the copper reducer with dielectric before I inserted the
barrel connecter but could see no difference *using max power. *Certainly a
lot cheaper than Andrews connectors and if the coax route is not ideal it
is easy and inexpensive to add flexible lengths at tight corners, such as
emerging from underground piping. Hardline gets extremely rigid and the
outer insulation is subject to cracking in the winter time which is when I
seem to have to work on things."

Just remember that the aluminum to copper galvanic couple promotes the
corrosion of the aluminum. *Keep the contact areas as dry as possible if
you don't want problems. *I have found that wrapping several layers of
tightly stretched vinyl electrical tape and then spraying the area with
clear Krylon® acrylic varnish does a reasonable job. *But since water vapor
can diffuse through the tape, you will need to check the connection
periodically.

* * 73, *Dr. Barry L. Ornitz *WA4VZQ

All true Then copper reducer matched the copper outside of the
Andrews hardline that I use and it made its own thread as I screwed
it on. I don't believe I soldered that end like I did with the barrel
input tho I often apply a liberal spray of acrylic on those sort of
aplications to prevent the inside copper from going green not that I
have seen that sort of evidence The use of this type of connection at
points of sharp turns on the 1/2 acre
available for the tower away from the residence really works out
inexpensive compared to the Andrews connectors when connecting to
short lengths of Andrews 1/2 flexible coax.
When tussling with long heavy hardline in the winter it invariably
crackes or splits the plastic outer covering exposing the corregated
copper sheathing, so if it has to be moved or replaced it is better if
it is without bends of any sort, I have a long stretch in an
underground pipe which is easily removed as it is without kinks.As
far as the tape goes I find that the 3M professional roles become
subject to perishing so I don't use it any more tho I have plenty of
rolls on hand
Regards
Art