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Rohn tower hinge or 5 ft section...
I have 50 feet of rohn tower and want to put it up but
don't want to direction stick it into a concrete base, i'd rather have either a hinge plate or a 5- foot section (preferably) to put into the concrete, for I hear if you direction shove tower into concrete it'll rust around the bottom until it completely disintegrates where it makes contact with the concrete (for whatever reason).... does anybody know a retailer that sells these things? I can't find them in the AES mag.... Clint KB5ZHT -- ------ It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and clueless critics of this country are only now beginning to realize, "Hey, that's my train!" --Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing "delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding... -------- 45 Communist Goals for America http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm -- |
Clint,
Sounds like you're looking for a hinged base plate. Rohn makes/made them, probably all tower manufacturers do. You might try "Texas Towers", they may have one in stock, or any of a number of others who handle Rohn products. 'Doc |
"Clint" rattlehead at computron dot net wrote in message ... I have 50 feet of rohn tower and want to put it up but don't want to direction stick it into a concrete base, i'd rather have either a hinge plate or a 5- foot section (preferably) to put into the concrete, for I hear if you direction shove tower into concrete it'll rust around the bottom until it completely disintegrates where it makes contact with the concrete (for whatever reason).... does anybody know a retailer that sells these things? I can't find them in the AES mag.... Clint KB5ZHT Clint Rohn makes both fixed and hinged baseplates for the 25G tower sections. Look for the BPC25G and BPH25G items in the Texas Tower website: http://www.texastowers.com/rohn25g.htm Pete -- ------ It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and clueless critics of this country are only now beginning to realize, "Hey, that's my train!" --Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing "delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding... -------- 45 Communist Goals for America http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm -- |
Clint
Just to set the record straight and try to put the brakes on another urban legend. I can tell you from experience that the experience you describe is not common, and when it does occur, it is due to incompetent installation. Like pouring the cement first and then adding the tower, as I believe you intend. I have some Rohn 25G which is 40+ years old. It was stuck in cement for 25 years in the first location, until I torched it off to move it. The part that was still in the cement was still sound and intact. It is now in the second location, where it has been for 15+ years, and no rust has appeared at the point where it goes into the cement. There are two things necessary to get this result. 1. The top of the cement must be crowned so water doesn't form a puddle, but drains off. 2. The bottom of the hole must have a layer of sand for the inside of the legs to drain into so they don't get plugged with cement and hold water. Tape over the unused bolt holes is a good idea as part of that. And, to be complete, prepare the hole, add the sand, locate the tower in the hole using temporary braces above ground, then pour the cement. A number of years back, I removed a surplus Rohn 45G tower which had been in place for about 15 years, with a very small (~200#) cement base containing no reinforcing. The cement was poured in a shallow limestone cavity, and I was able to lift it out and then break the cement away from the tower legs. The galvanizing inside the cement was over 90% intact, but the bare places had only a surface coating of rust, and I expect it would have stood at least another 15 years before any significant corrosion damage occurred. The cement was not crowned, as the installation was temporary, and that likely contributed to the corrosion. That and the limestone held water also. + To make a permanent (60 years +) installation, coat the part of the tower which is to go in the cement with bituminous cement and wrap that with corrosion resistant tape. This is the technique which was used to put galvanized conduit in cement below grade for years before PVC was approved. It is also recommended for guy anchor rods. There is a long documented history of the success of this method in the electrical industry. It is still used in some locations, and the materials are still sold by electrical suppliers. -- Crazy George Remove N O and S P A M imbedded in return address "Clint" rattlehead at computron dot net wrote in message ... I have 50 feet of rohn tower and want to put it up but don't want to direction stick it into a concrete base, i'd rather have either a hinge plate or a 5- foot section (preferably) to put into the concrete, for I hear if you direction shove tower into concrete it'll rust around the bottom until it completely disintegrates where it makes contact with the concrete (for whatever reason).... does anybody know a retailer that sells these things? I can't find them in the AES mag.... Clint KB5ZHT -- ------ It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and clueless critics of this country are only now beginning to realize, "Hey, that's my train!" --Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing "delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding... -------- 45 Communist Goals for America http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm -- |
Well, if that's the case then I won't worry about it.. i'll follow
you're advice and just put a sub-base layer of sand down under the concrete pad. It'll save lots of money, time and trouble for sure. Clint KB5ZHT "Crazy George" wrote in message ... Clint Just to set the record straight and try to put the brakes on another urban legend. I can tell you from experience that the experience you describe is not common, and when it does occur, it is due to incompetent installation. Like pouring the cement first and then adding the tower, as I believe you intend. I have some Rohn 25G which is 40+ years old. It was stuck in cement for 25 years in the first location, until I torched it off to move it. The part that was still in the cement was still sound and intact. It is now in the second location, where it has been for 15+ years, and no rust has appeared at the point where it goes into the cement. There are two things necessary to get this result. 1. The top of the cement must be crowned so water doesn't form a puddle, but drains off. 2. The bottom of the hole must have a layer of sand for the inside of the legs to drain into so they don't get plugged with cement and hold water. Tape over the unused bolt holes is a good idea as part of that. And, to be complete, prepare the hole, add the sand, locate the tower in the hole using temporary braces above ground, then pour the cement. A number of years back, I removed a surplus Rohn 45G tower which had been in place for about 15 years, with a very small (~200#) cement base containing no reinforcing. The cement was poured in a shallow limestone cavity, and I was able to lift it out and then break the cement away from the tower legs. The galvanizing inside the cement was over 90% intact, but the bare places had only a surface coating of rust, and I expect it would have stood at least another 15 years before any significant corrosion damage occurred. The cement was not crowned, as the installation was temporary, and that likely contributed to the corrosion. That and the limestone held water also. + To make a permanent (60 years +) installation, coat the part of the tower which is to go in the cement with bituminous cement and wrap that with corrosion resistant tape. This is the technique which was used to put galvanized conduit in cement below grade for years before PVC was approved. It is also recommended for guy anchor rods. There is a long documented history of the success of this method in the electrical industry. It is still used in some locations, and the materials are still sold by electrical suppliers. -- Crazy George Remove N O and S P A M imbedded in return address "Clint" rattlehead at computron dot net wrote in message ... I have 50 feet of rohn tower and want to put it up but don't want to direction stick it into a concrete base, i'd rather have either a hinge plate or a 5- foot section (preferably) to put into the concrete, for I hear if you direction shove tower into concrete it'll rust around the bottom until it completely disintegrates where it makes contact with the concrete (for whatever reason).... does anybody know a retailer that sells these things? I can't find them in the AES mag.... Clint KB5ZHT -- ------ It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and clueless critics of this country are only now beginning to realize, "Hey, that's my train!" --Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing "delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding... -------- 45 Communist Goals for America http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm -- -- ------ It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and clueless critics of this country are only now beginning to realize, "Hey, that's my train!" --Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing "delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding... -------- 45 Communist Goals for America http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm -- |
"Bob Nielsen" wrote in message ... I believe gravel is preferable to sand. If the sand becomes wet it might block the end of the tube preventing adequate drainage, thus defeating the purpose. Bob, N7XY OH, damn good advice.... how about pea gravel, or maybe 3/8" rock? it would allow drainage very well (many french drains and other water drain systems use pea gravel or small rock to allow water passage or filtration).... Clint KB5ZHT |
Well, if that's the case then I won't worry about it.. i'll follow
you're advice and just put a sub-base layer of sand down under the concrete pad. It'll save lots of money, time and trouble for sure. You can go here and see what Rohn recommends for the base and guys . http://www.rohnnet.com/ Look under the Online Catalog and then under the GT series. Looks like they recommend about 6 inches of compacted sand and gravel with about 2 inches of the legs put into the sand/gravel. Then a concrete base about 4 feet in each direction. |
Clint:
When you pour the cement and put the crown on the top, make it at least 3/4"-1" higher in the center as it will probably drop some in the center as it cures. This is why so much "professional" cement flat work holds water in the middle. No one teaches the proper method of cement installation any longer. -- Crazy George |
On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 21:37:36 -0600, "Crazy George"
wrote: |Clint: | |When you pour the cement and put the crown on the top, make it at least |3/4"-1" higher in the center as it will probably drop some in the center as |it cures. This is why so much "professional" cement flat work holds water |in the middle. No one teaches the proper method of cement installation any |longer. Sorry George, I can't help myself.g "Cement" is the stuff that holds the aggregate in "concrete" together and concrete is "placed," not "poured". |
Wes:
You are technically correct about the cement/concrete names, but I believe you will find the previously incorrect "cement" usage for concrete is now accepted because it has become the norm. Like the long term result of the incorrect use of "dumb". It is rarely used correctly these days. And, placing is certainly correct for flatwork, but I've never heard of a "continuous place" for large continuous pours like major buildings and other structures. How many times did I hear that during the post-mortems of the WTC construction, for example? -- Crazy George Remove N O and S P A M imbedded in return address "Wes Stewart" wrote in message ... On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 21:37:36 -0600, "Crazy George" wrote: |Clint: | |When you pour the cement and put the crown on the top, make it at least |3/4"-1" higher in the center as it will probably drop some in the center as |it cures. This is why so much "professional" cement flat work holds water |in the middle. No one teaches the proper method of cement installation any |longer. Sorry George, I can't help myself.g "Cement" is the stuff that holds the aggregate in "concrete" together and concrete is "placed," not "poured". |
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