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#1
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I have been wondering which way the fans on my TS-930 should be
blowing. Should they take the ambient air from outside and blow it on the heatsink, or should they be evacuating the inside air in the vicinity of the heatsink and blowing it out? I have been restoring the unit and both fans required replacement. I've surfed a number of sites on the subject but can never get a definitive answer. Thanks in advance for any assistance... de Irv, VE6BP |
#2
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We tried push pull on a set of car stereo amplifiers in a box and found that if the fans drew the air away from the box, the amplifiers ran cooler than if we tried to push air into the box and then draw air back out of the box. You need almost twice as much fan drawing the hot air out as what you use to push it in. I would make sure that I used your radio in an open air space and not inside of a box or cabinet. Too many people tries to hide their ham radios, out of sight, out of mind, out of the old lady's sight and they don't think about what it does to the transceiver - since it both transmits and receives. They confuse it with a plain old radio that just receives. A radio that just receives shouldn't get very hot. Then they wonder why it gets so hot when they transmit and do not have airflow around the radio. Dumb!
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No Kings, no queens, no jacks, no long talking washer women... |
#3
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On 6/12/2015 8:27 AM, Channel Jumper wrote:
Irv Finkleman VE6BP;840688 Wrote: I have been wondering which way the fans on my TS-930 should be blowing. Should they take the ambient air from outside and blow it on the heat sink, or should they be evacuating the inside air in the vicinity of the heat sink and blowing it out? I have been restoring the unit and both fans required replacement. I've surfed a number of sites on the subject but can never get a definitive answer. Thanks in advance for any assistance... de Irv, VE6BP If the fans are forcing the air in, it is forcing the hot air deeper inside of the heat sink, making it hotter, not colder - unless the air outside of the radio is colder than the air inside of the heat sink. Not necessarily. For instance, many tube type rigs blow air directly on the finals to keep them cool, with vents over the finals to let the hot air out. Much more efficient than trying to draw air through the case. We tried push pull on a set of car stereo amplifiers in a box and found that if the fans drew the air away from the box, the amplifiers ran cooler than if we tried to push air into the box and then draw air back out of the box. You need almost twice as much fan drawing the hot air out as what you use to push it in. It depends on where the heat is generated and how the fan is designed to handle the heat. Both methods are used. I would make sure that I used your radio in an open air space and not inside of a box or cabinet. Too many people tries to hide their ham radios, out of sight, out of mind, out of the old lady's sight and they don't think about what it does to the transceiver - since it both transmits and receives. They confuse it with a plain old radio that just receives. A radio that just receives shouldn't get very hot. Then they wonder why it gets so hot when they transmit and do not have airflow around the radio. Dumb! I would find someone with the same radio and ask them which way the air is blowing. But then this once again shows you have no inkling about ham radios. Go back to your CB pals. -- ================== Remove the "x" from my email address Jerry Stuckle ================== |
#4
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Channel Jumper wrote:
Irv Finkleman VE6BP;840688 Wrote: I have been wondering which way the fans on my TS-930 should be blowing. Should they take the ambient air from outside and blow it on the heat sink, or should they be evacuating the inside air in the vicinity of the heat sink and blowing it out? I have been restoring the unit and both fans required replacement. I've surfed a number of sites on the subject but can never get a definitive answer. Thanks in advance for any assistance... de Irv, VE6BP If the fans are forcing the air in, it is forcing the hot air deeper inside of the heat sink, making it hotter, not colder - unless the air outside of the radio is colder than the air inside of the heat sink. Which it obviously will be and your wording implies that the heat sinks are closed to air flow. In a good design, heat sinks are put on the hottest part of the equipment and the thing that needs cooling the most. The best way to do that is to blow outside air into the heat sink. If the design was done properly, there will be an air path out of the heat sink back to the outside. We tried push pull on a set of car stereo amplifiers in a box and found that if the fans drew the air away from the box, the amplifiers ran cooler than if we tried to push air into the box and then draw air back out of the box. That result will depend on where you put the fans and the air flow in the box. If the box was not originally designed for forced air cooling, your results with add on fans will be entireyly random. You need almost twice as much fan drawing the hot air out as what you use to push it in. Again, that would entirely depend on the equipment design. I would make sure that I used your radio in an open air space and not inside of a box or cabinet. Lots of equipment routinely operates inside of a box or cabinet. If the enclosed equipment generates much heat, then the cabinet needs its own set of fans to ensure enough cool outside air for the enclosed equipment. Obligatory war story: Years ago we were building racked equipment and the controversy arose as to whether it was better to blow air into the rack from the top or the bottom. The bottom blower group maintained that since heat rises, you would get better airflow from blowing in from the bottom. A quick calculation showed that the fans overpowered the convection flow by many orders of magnitude, so it should be irrelevant. So an empirical test was done with two cabinets side by side. The long term result was ths bottom blower cabinet got hotter because the fans at the bottom picked up more dust and crap from the environment clogging things up while the top blowers remained much cleaner. -- Jim Pennino |
#5
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#6
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#7
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Thanks Ian,
There were existing fans and holes in the rear panel, and I was just curious before replacing the fans. Both had become noisy and I removed them without checking air flow direction. The new fans blow air in and onto the heatsink, and there is a good outflow for the heated air. I've run the unit into a dummy load for some time and everything is working well now. My only regret is that the original fans are no longer available and consequently the restoration of the unit is not 'perfect', but the TS-930S is a lovely unit and is now running well again. Thanks also to all those who replied to my queries. Irv VE6BP |
#8
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In message , Irv Finkleman VE6BP
writes Thanks Ian, There were existing fans and holes in the rear panel, and I was just curious before replacing the fans. Both had become noisy and I removed them without checking air flow direction. Ah.... I was thinking more of a 19" rack horizontal fan tray (holding maybe a couple of 6" diameter fans - which can sound like a hovercraft on full power!). -- Ian |
#9
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On 6/27/2015 5:35 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Irv Finkleman VE6BP writes Thanks Ian, There were existing fans and holes in the rear panel, and I was just curious before replacing the fans. Both had become noisy and I removed them without checking air flow direction. Ah.... I was thinking more of a 19" rack horizontal fan tray (holding maybe a couple of 6" diameter fans - which can sound like a hovercraft on full power!). Ian, we do a couple of dozen racks a year. The best cooling (even recommended by the rack manufacturers) is fans with filters at the bottom, blowing air directly into the rack. If you need additional cooling, you can put fans at the top pulling the air out. You don't want fans just pulling air through, as you would have if the fans were at the middle or top; you have no control of how or where the air enters the rack; air can be pulled in through spaces between units, or even through holes in equipment, for instance. But you can place fans at the top if you have fans at the bottom; the bottom fans will still supply the air and the top fans will increase airflow. The biggest problem with cooling a cabinet is equipment placement. You generally want the heaviest items near the bottom for stability, but these also generally generate the most heat. Additionally, deeper items will block more of the airflow. You don't, for instance, want a full-depth item immediately above one that generates significant heat. But most items that run hot generate the heat near the rear of the chassis, so you can place a low depth item above it, if convenient. If not, you may have to place a 2 or 3 RU blank panel above it to allow for sufficient airflow. You also need to consider things like too many full-depth items you have in the cabinet. Each one of them adds air resistance, lowering air flow. You may, for instance, want to go to a 28" deep rack, even if everything will fit into a 23" deep one, to allow for more airflow. Or you may go for two 28RU racks instead of one 44RU rack to split the heat up. There is a certain art to good rack design; you don't just slap everything together and hope it works. When you're done, you should power up everything in the cabinet and monitor temperature for a few hours. And if you generate significant heat (or even moderate heat in unconditioned space), it's a good idea to have a thermometer with remote alert capabilities in case of a problem like a fan failure. -- ================== Remove the "x" from my email address Jerry, AI0K ================== |
#10
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In message , Jerry Stuckle
writes On 6/27/2015 5:35 AM, Ian Jackson wrote: In message , Irv Finkleman VE6BP writes Thanks Ian, There were existing fans and holes in the rear panel, and I was just curious before replacing the fans. Both had become noisy and I removed them without checking air flow direction. Ah.... I was thinking more of a 19" rack horizontal fan tray (holding maybe a couple of 6" diameter fans - which can sound like a hovercraft on full power!). Ian, we do a couple of dozen racks a year. The best cooling (even recommended by the rack manufacturers) is fans with filters at the bottom, blowing air directly into the rack. If you need additional cooling, you can put fans at the top pulling the air out. You don't want fans just pulling air through, as you would have if the fans were at the middle or top; you have no control of how or where the air enters the rack; air can be pulled in through spaces between units, or even through holes in equipment, for instance. But you can place fans at the top if you have fans at the bottom; the bottom fans will still supply the air and the top fans will increase airflow. The biggest problem with cooling a cabinet is equipment placement. You generally want the heaviest items near the bottom for stability, but these also generally generate the most heat. Additionally, deeper items will block more of the airflow. You don't, for instance, want a full-depth item immediately above one that generates significant heat. But most items that run hot generate the heat near the rear of the chassis, so you can place a low depth item above it, if convenient. If not, you may have to place a 2 or 3 RU blank panel above it to allow for sufficient airflow. You also need to consider things like too many full-depth items you have in the cabinet. Each one of them adds air resistance, lowering air flow. You may, for instance, want to go to a 28" deep rack, even if everything will fit into a 23" deep one, to allow for more airflow. Or you may go for two 28RU racks instead of one 44RU rack to split the heat up. There is a certain art to good rack design; you don't just slap everything together and hope it works. When you're done, you should power up everything in the cabinet and monitor temperature for a few hours. And if you generate significant heat (or even moderate heat in unconditioned space), it's a good idea to have a thermometer with remote alert capabilities in case of a problem like a fan failure. Your experimental experience is noted. I have to admit that I haven't personally experimented with trying to optimise cooling in racks. My suggestion of 'halfway up' is essentially a gut feeling - based on my experiences where the equipment doesn't extend all the way to the back to the rear door/wall of the rack - ie there is a gap, say, of least 6", where the air can get from bottom to top without having to pass completely through the intervening hot equipment. By the very nature of things, and with the best will in the world, racks can rarely be made into air-tight tubes, and as a result, there is usually quite a fair bit of leakage. If the fan tray is located at the very top of the rack, a lot of the lower equipment doesn't really feel their benefit. This may not matter much to the very lowest equipment, as it probably doesn't really need the fans. It will be the equipment in the centre of the rack that will suffer, because it will get the hot air from the equipment beneath, but the fans won't have enough 'reach' to extract it. That's why I feel that locating the fan tray about halfway up might be the best compromise. -- Ian |
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