Ron wrote:

Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this

http://www.lazertran.com/

If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on
this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut
out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint
or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any
logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little
niche market hi!!!
thanks from Ron...

If the decals from RockSea aren't complete enough, drop Mike a line and
I'm sure he'll be happy to add any missing words. He posted here some
while back before jumping into Halli decals looking for all the various
words, etc used on the sets.
If you want to DIY your own decals thats easy enough. A font that is
VERY close to the Hallicrafters font is named CHANL and you should be
able to find it on the web.
Waterslide decals via your own printer are great but inkjets are at the
bottom of the heap for producing a decal that works on a dark background
because of the inherent transparency in the ink. Laser Jet is better,
ALPS dry transfer is perfect and your local copy store is great with
their $30k machines if you bring along the decal paper stock...about $1
per sheet.

-Bill M

"Ron" wrote in message
...

Hi
Yes I had problems with both the setting of the dial and the tracking
on Band 4 I think you have to accept a little variance but I'm very
pleased with its performance and have been using it on 40mtrs CW
alongside my Home Brew QRP CW Tx.


I got my S-40A in perfect band 4 alignment at 2 points (17 and 34 Mc), but
it wasn't easy. I had to remove the band 4 oscillator coil and spread the
turns. Actually, I ended up rewinding the coil because I messed up the
original. I overworked the coil because I didn't realize the importance of
lead dress on this radio, even at 17 Mc. There's a longish wire coming from
the bandswitch which should be routed under the capacitor shelf on the coil
form. Routing it over the top of the form cost me about 250 Kc. That's
about half of the range from the tuning slug.

If you don't get enough range with the ferrite slug, the radio books say you
can try a brass slug. I didn't have a brass slug, and I don't have the
brass rod to make one. In one of my experiments, I coiled some 16 gauge
copper wire around the shank of a phillips head screwdriver, and threaded
the coil into the form. If you've ever worked with Heli-Coil thread
inserts, you can picture what I did. The copper coil worked fine, but I got
the radio aligned with the ferrite slug, once I rewound the coil for a
little less inductance.

Also, good clean connections at the bandswitch and the solder joints are
important. Band 4 is a high C low L circuit, and should generate a fair
amount of current in the LC tank assuming a reasonable Q.
You can clean the bandswitch better if you remove the two screws which hold
the witch detent in place. You can then rock the switch past the postition
the contacts stop for band 4. This will work any contact cleaner in better,
and work out the crud which normally builds up where the switch dead ends.


It's strange this radio goes into the low VHF band. I think Hallicrafters
designed it with the experimental Apex radio band in mind, which ran from
about 40 to 45 Mc.

Frank Dresser

"Ron" wrote in message
...

Hi
Yes I had problems with both the setting of the dial and the tracking
on Band 4 I think you have to accept a little variance but I'm very
pleased with its performance and have been using it on 40mtrs CW
alongside my Home Brew QRP CW Tx.


I got my S-40A in perfect band 4 alignment at 2 points (17 and 34 Mc), but
it wasn't easy. I had to remove the band 4 oscillator coil and spread the
turns. Actually, I ended up rewinding the coil because I messed up the
original. I overworked the coil because I didn't realize the importance of
lead dress on this radio, even at 17 Mc. There's a longish wire coming from
the bandswitch which should be routed under the capacitor shelf on the coil
form. Routing it over the top of the form cost me about 250 Kc. That's
about half of the range from the tuning slug.

If you don't get enough range with the ferrite slug, the radio books say you
can try a brass slug. I didn't have a brass slug, and I don't have the
brass rod to make one. In one of my experiments, I coiled some 16 gauge
copper wire around the shank of a phillips head screwdriver, and threaded
the coil into the form. If you've ever worked with Heli-Coil thread
inserts, you can picture what I did. The copper coil worked fine, but I got
the radio aligned with the ferrite slug, once I rewound the coil for a
little less inductance.

Also, good clean connections at the bandswitch and the solder joints are
important. Band 4 is a high C low L circuit, and should generate a fair
amount of current in the LC tank assuming a reasonable Q.
You can clean the bandswitch better if you remove the two screws which hold
the witch detent in place. You can then rock the switch past the postition
the contacts stop for band 4. This will work any contact cleaner in better,
and work out the crud which normally builds up where the switch dead ends.


It's strange this radio goes into the low VHF band. I think Hallicrafters
designed it with the experimental Apex radio band in mind, which ran from
about 40 to 45 Mc.

Frank Dresser

Agency SB bold is an EXACT match to the hallicrafters font used in thier literature and on the front of my HT-32A.

Knobtwiddler

Agency SB bold is an EXACT match to the hallicrafters font used in thier literature and on the front of my HT-32A.

Comes with Windows XP Pro

Knobtwiddler

OOPS “Agency FB” is the EXACT match to the hallicrafters font.

NOT Agency SB

knobtwiddler

OOPS “Agency FB” is the EXACT match to the hallicrafters font.

NOT Agency SB

knobtwiddler