Nostalgia. When drafted into the Navy is 1943
my first job was setting up ARC-5 transmitters
and receivers in 336 SNJ (AT-6) aircraft. (among
other things) Later after the war when there wasn't
much money around, I would rewind ARC-5 receivers
and use them for ten-meter converters. In those days
tapping on the case of just about any transmitter or
receiver would produce some modulation. Except for
Collins equipment. The ARC-5 VHF transmitters were
truly awe inspiring when they arrived. 73s W6BWY

zeno wrote:

I have already decided not to worry about
keeping this thing "original", eg. will be putting in a new power plug, key
jack, and coax connector etc....

It is certainly your radio and you can do as you wish,
but I urge you to reconsider; this isn't a old Craig CB rig
or and Eico 753. This radio has historic significance.

Extensive modification is needless
and will turn your historic relic into a junkbox nothing.
You can get the rig on the air with a good signal
without drilling a single hole or chopping out anything.
It's as simple as disconnecting
one wire and adjusting one relay contact.
If you need pins to fit the power connector on the back,
send me your address and I'll send you some.
Moreover, if you do the butchery to put the filiments on
12 volts AC, you are defeating part of the engineering solution
designed to keep the rigs stable.
My rigs are original design and work great with
good power out and little or no chirp.

First- throw out ALL those "conversion" articles from
the 50s, 60s and 70s. The first ones were written by
people who knew nothing about getting these rigs going
and the rest just parroted what the first wrote.
I can't tell you how many rigs went from "war relic"
to "trash can" because of some conversion "author."
The rigs are NOT TVI machines, chirp factories,
harmonic generators or any of the other myths
you've heard. These were born out of people flailing
around blindly without any understanding of how
the rig was designed to work.

I have lots of information on how to get these going
with little work and no irreversable mods.
I'm headed to work. If anyone cares to read them,
I will post them when I get home this evening.

73 DE Dave Stinson AB5S

zeno wrote:

I have already decided not to worry about
keeping this thing "original", eg. will be putting in a new power plug, key
jack, and coax connector etc....

It is certainly your radio and you can do as you wish,
but I urge you to reconsider; this isn't a old Craig CB rig
or and Eico 753. This radio has historic significance.

Extensive modification is needless
and will turn your historic relic into a junkbox nothing.
You can get the rig on the air with a good signal
without drilling a single hole or chopping out anything.
It's as simple as disconnecting
one wire and adjusting one relay contact.
If you need pins to fit the power connector on the back,
send me your address and I'll send you some.
Moreover, if you do the butchery to put the filiments on
12 volts AC, you are defeating part of the engineering solution
designed to keep the rigs stable.
My rigs are original design and work great with
good power out and little or no chirp.

First- throw out ALL those "conversion" articles from
the 50s, 60s and 70s. The first ones were written by
people who knew nothing about getting these rigs going
and the rest just parroted what the first wrote.
I can't tell you how many rigs went from "war relic"
to "trash can" because of some conversion "author."
The rigs are NOT TVI machines, chirp factories,
harmonic generators or any of the other myths
you've heard. These were born out of people flailing
around blindly without any understanding of how
the rig was designed to work.

I have lots of information on how to get these going
with little work and no irreversable mods.
I'm headed to work. If anyone cares to read them,
I will post them when I get home this evening.

73 DE Dave Stinson AB5S

God bless you; you're just the man I'm looking for.
Do you have any idea what the MF ARC-5 transmitters
were for? These are the rare :
T-15, 500-800 KC
T-16, 800-1300 KC
T-17, 1300-2100 KC

The latest theory is that they were used in joint
maneuvers with third-world allied navies,
where were still using the 1920s-agreed navy
frequencies below 2 MC.

There so much I would love to ask you about
these sets, if you don't mind the trouble.
I'm a serious historian of the
Command Set series and gentlemen like yourself
are a treasure to find.

73 DE Dave Stinson AB5S


Spike wrote:

Nostalgia. When drafted into the Navy is 1943
my first job was setting up ARC-5 transmitters
and receivers in 336 SNJ (AT-6) aircraft. (among
other things) Later after the war when there wasn't
much money around, I would rewind ARC-5 receivers
and use them for ten-meter converters. In those days
tapping on the case of just about any transmitter or
receiver would produce some modulation. Except for
Collins equipment. The ARC-5 VHF transmitters were
truly awe inspiring when they arrived. 73s W6BWY

God bless you; you're just the man I'm looking for.
Do you have any idea what the MF ARC-5 transmitters
were for? These are the rare :
T-15, 500-800 KC
T-16, 800-1300 KC
T-17, 1300-2100 KC

The latest theory is that they were used in joint
maneuvers with third-world allied navies,
where were still using the 1920s-agreed navy
frequencies below 2 MC.

There so much I would love to ask you about
these sets, if you don't mind the trouble.
I'm a serious historian of the
Command Set series and gentlemen like yourself
are a treasure to find.

73 DE Dave Stinson AB5S


Spike wrote:

Nostalgia. When drafted into the Navy is 1943
my first job was setting up ARC-5 transmitters
and receivers in 336 SNJ (AT-6) aircraft. (among
other things) Later after the war when there wasn't
much money around, I would rewind ARC-5 receivers
and use them for ten-meter converters. In those days
tapping on the case of just about any transmitter or
receiver would produce some modulation. Except for
Collins equipment. The ARC-5 VHF transmitters were
truly awe inspiring when they arrived. 73s W6BWY

In article , zeno writes:

you calibrate the tuning dial by using the Xtal as a reference
knowing it is at the stated Xtal frequency when the magic eye peaks. I assume
you
use the little knob next to the dial for this tweaking? or do you loosen the
dial
and re-set it according to this calibration?

All the xtal tells you is whether the dial is close or not. Recalibration is a
shop procedure. The dial is pinned - don't try to change it.

The little knobs next to each control are locks to prevent the settings from
changing in flight.

73 de Jim, N2EY

In article , zeno writes:

you calibrate the tuning dial by using the Xtal as a reference
knowing it is at the stated Xtal frequency when the magic eye peaks. I assume
you
use the little knob next to the dial for this tweaking? or do you loosen the
dial
and re-set it according to this calibration?

All the xtal tells you is whether the dial is close or not. Recalibration is a
shop procedure. The dial is pinned - don't try to change it.

The little knobs next to each control are locks to prevent the settings from
changing in flight.

73 de Jim, N2EY

In article , zeno writes:

Someone gave me an old ARC 5 (7-9.1) transmitter found at the county
dump. I would like to see if I can get it going on 40 meter CW.

First question is: What condition is it in?

If it's in original unmodified condition, or close to it, please don't hack it
up. Unmodified ARC-5s *used to be* all over the place for low prices, and were
often subjected to all sorts of modifications. Some mods were pretty good, most
really weren't. IMHO, one that's survived this long in unmodified shape
deserves to be preserved. If you don't want to keep it historically accurate,
sell it to someone who does. There are plenty of hacked-up ones around to
experiment with.

OTOH, if it's been through the mods already (power socket changed, lots of
extra holes, coils rewound, paint largely gone, etc.) it might be OK to mod it
or use it as a parts source.

I have
found some information online, namely a schematic and an article for
"converting to Amateur use". I realize this is a crap shoot, but I
think it would be fun trying. I am trying to verify the wiring
according to this old schematic knowing that so many units have been
hacked into over the years. I have put together a power supply along
the lines of the reprinted "converting" article available at the ARRL
website.

What does that conversion article show?

There was an article in the ARRL Handbooks for years that involved building an
external crystal oscillator in a minibox, using a 6AG7. Most of that article
was pretty good because it didn't hack up the ARC-5 too much (but it did
recommend destroying the power socket, unfortunately).

The Xtal in this unit is 8870 KC. Is this OK?

Not for ham operation!

How does this
Xtal function in this otherwise VFO unit, and what determines the
frequency that was chosen for this xtal?

It allowed the dial to be checked against one known point, using the 1629
magic-eye tube. This was a simple check that could be done in the plane to be
sure that things weren't way off. ARC-5 transmitters (when used in small
planes) were usually meant to be adjusted on the ground by a technician, who
would then lock all the settings and the pilot would simply choose which
transmitter to use.

Other information or sources
of information would be welcome.

KG7BZ website, if it's still operational


Anyone else have any luck with these
things? Any recommendations?

They are an excellent example of 1930s radio engineering at its very best. They
did the job with a maximum of efficiency and a minimum of size, weight,
complexity and cost. The receivers are even better.

73 de Jim, N2EY

btw, about 12 years or so ago, a local ham showed me an intact BC-459. A little
dusty but completely untouched. He found it on someone's trash, wanted to know
if it was worth carting to the upcoming hamfest and if so, how much to ask. I
said $25 and he thought I was nuts. It was the first thing he sold.

In article , zeno writes:

Someone gave me an old ARC 5 (7-9.1) transmitter found at the county
dump. I would like to see if I can get it going on 40 meter CW.

First question is: What condition is it in?

If it's in original unmodified condition, or close to it, please don't hack it
up. Unmodified ARC-5s *used to be* all over the place for low prices, and were
often subjected to all sorts of modifications. Some mods were pretty good, most
really weren't. IMHO, one that's survived this long in unmodified shape
deserves to be preserved. If you don't want to keep it historically accurate,
sell it to someone who does. There are plenty of hacked-up ones around to
experiment with.

OTOH, if it's been through the mods already (power socket changed, lots of
extra holes, coils rewound, paint largely gone, etc.) it might be OK to mod it
or use it as a parts source.

I have
found some information online, namely a schematic and an article for
"converting to Amateur use". I realize this is a crap shoot, but I
think it would be fun trying. I am trying to verify the wiring
according to this old schematic knowing that so many units have been
hacked into over the years. I have put together a power supply along
the lines of the reprinted "converting" article available at the ARRL
website.

What does that conversion article show?

There was an article in the ARRL Handbooks for years that involved building an
external crystal oscillator in a minibox, using a 6AG7. Most of that article
was pretty good because it didn't hack up the ARC-5 too much (but it did
recommend destroying the power socket, unfortunately).

The Xtal in this unit is 8870 KC. Is this OK?

Not for ham operation!

How does this
Xtal function in this otherwise VFO unit, and what determines the
frequency that was chosen for this xtal?

It allowed the dial to be checked against one known point, using the 1629
magic-eye tube. This was a simple check that could be done in the plane to be
sure that things weren't way off. ARC-5 transmitters (when used in small
planes) were usually meant to be adjusted on the ground by a technician, who
would then lock all the settings and the pilot would simply choose which
transmitter to use.

Other information or sources
of information would be welcome.

KG7BZ website, if it's still operational


Anyone else have any luck with these
things? Any recommendations?

They are an excellent example of 1930s radio engineering at its very best. They
did the job with a maximum of efficiency and a minimum of size, weight,
complexity and cost. The receivers are even better.

73 de Jim, N2EY

btw, about 12 years or so ago, a local ham showed me an intact BC-459. A little
dusty but completely untouched. He found it on someone's trash, wanted to know
if it was worth carting to the upcoming hamfest and if so, how much to ask. I
said $25 and he thought I was nuts. It was the first thing he sold.

The BC-459-A found at the dump, is a bare aluminum Western Electric. It has been
already modified, the plug was already changed, a key jack put in the back, and
a bunch of wiring mods which are incomprehensible to me. It is missing the 1629,
the 1626, and the Xtal. I have since picked up another BC-459 (black) which
seems to be internally unmodified and complete with all tubes and Xtal (8870
KC), although it is missing the bottom plate and the cover. It is a black, but
It notice the case parts from the bare aluminum one would fit to this black one.
I was also given an old homebrew power supply which still works and was
apparently built to the specs that are described in the ARRL article about
converting the Arc 5 for Novice use. This power supply has a male octal plug
with wiring that exactly corresponds to this article, eg. it has the 12.6 V
filament and a 6.3 V filament as well as all the B+ voltages as per the article.
Yes this is the article which describes how to make an outboard crystal
controlled oscillator with 6AG7 tube and which then plugs into the Xtal socket
of the Arc 5. The modification is such that the Arc 5 can be put back to VFO
operation simply by removing this outboard novice xtal unit and putting back the
original Xtal.

The wiring in this first BC-459 is a mess and has been hacked up, It was going
to use this unit for parts, at least use the bottom plate and the case, even
though it is bare aluminum and the better unit I have is black. The better unit,
as stated, seems to be internally unmodified, so doing the mods in this article
would be more straight forward.

However, having now posted to this forum and having received the various
suggestions, I am wondering what the best path might be here. First off, I do
not understand how one would use the original plug in the back since I have
never seen an original male fitting available anywhere. Secondly, I am wondering
what kind of other power supply one would use to keep everything in its original
context. In short I am wondering what is the best, and most practical way to get
this thing operating. The only information on converstion that I have at this
point is the the article which appears on the ARRL site "Coverting Surplus
Transmitter for Novice Use" even though I was not going to build the outboard
xtal unit as suggested. I would be interested in seeing other, perhaps superior,
methods for putting this gear to use. Really, how bad is this particular article
and its mod suggestions? It has been suggested that the addition of some
regulation on the oscillator voltage would solve the problem of chirp/drift etc.

I would be interested in the type of mods and power supplies that you are all
using which have proven successful before I proceed any further.

I am assuming there are plenty of these units preserved as museum pieces
already, I was more interested in using it without necessarily turning the shack
into a complete ww2 cockpit.

Bill, K6TAJ




David Stinson wrote:

zeno wrote:

I have already decided not to worry about
keeping this thing "original", eg. will be putting in a new power plug, key
jack, and coax connector etc....

It is certainly your radio and you can do as you wish,
but I urge you to reconsider; this isn't a old Craig CB rig
or and Eico 753. This radio has historic significance.

Extensive modification is needless
and will turn your historic relic into a junkbox nothing.
You can get the rig on the air with a good signal
without drilling a single hole or chopping out anything.
It's as simple as disconnecting
one wire and adjusting one relay contact.
If you need pins to fit the power connector on the back,
send me your address and I'll send you some.
Moreover, if you do the butchery to put the filiments on
12 volts AC, you are defeating part of the engineering solution
designed to keep the rigs stable.
My rigs are original design and work great with
good power out and little or no chirp.

First- throw out ALL those "conversion" articles from
the 50s, 60s and 70s. The first ones were written by
people who knew nothing about getting these rigs going
and the rest just parroted what the first wrote.
I can't tell you how many rigs went from "war relic"
to "trash can" because of some conversion "author."
The rigs are NOT TVI machines, chirp factories,
harmonic generators or any of the other myths
you've heard. These were born out of people flailing
around blindly without any understanding of how
the rig was designed to work.

I have lots of information on how to get these going
with little work and no irreversable mods.
I'm headed to work. If anyone cares to read them,
I will post them when I get home this evening.

73 DE Dave Stinson AB5S