|
Joe,
Go to a hardware store and ask. I can't remember the same, but there is a commercial product, usually hanging on a peg at the end of an isle, which looks like some small strips of aluminum foil. You push one, or more, into the hole, insert the screw, and tear off the excess. It molds itself to the hole and does not easily fall out, though you can remove it if you want. I have used it for what you want, and at least for me it worked fine. Works on much larger screws as well. -- Alan WA4SCA |
Stripped screws...
Joe,
Go to a hardware store and ask. I can't remember the same, but there is a commercial product, usually hanging on a peg at the end of an isle, which looks like some small strips of aluminum foil. You push one, or more, into the hole, insert the screw, and tear off the excess. It molds itself to the hole and does not easily fall out, though you can remove it if you want. I have used it for what you want, and at least for me it worked fine. Works on much larger screws as well. -- Alan WA4SCA |
Hello Joel
Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Regards Max |
Hello Joel
Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Regards Max |
Anyone have any words of wisdom?
The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII |
Anyone have any words of wisdom?
The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII |
HeliCoils are great and I have used them on cars over the years. But the
cabinets on most gear is sheet metal, and I doubt this would be the answer. But thinking about it, I know I have run into little 'U' shaped pieces of metal that slide over a hole and are taped. Maybe I can find something like that at a hardware store. That's if I knew what they were called... .. "Fred McKenzie" wrote in message ... Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII |
HeliCoils are great and I have used them on cars over the years. But the
cabinets on most gear is sheet metal, and I doubt this would be the answer. But thinking about it, I know I have run into little 'U' shaped pieces of metal that slide over a hole and are taped. Maybe I can find something like that at a hardware store. That's if I knew what they were called... .. "Fred McKenzie" wrote in message ... Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII |
"Joel" wrote in message
... I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that I use but there is a similar type shown here at http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just a casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the entire set. Hope this helps. Michael Beaveridge VE7YXX |
"Joel" wrote in message
... I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that I use but there is a similar type shown here at http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just a casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the entire set. Hope this helps. Michael Beaveridge VE7YXX |
I just get a slightly larger screw.
Wood screws have a nice pitch to them. Bite real nice. |
I just get a slightly larger screw.
Wood screws have a nice pitch to them. Bite real nice. |
I work at a sheetmetal shop and use 2 very common fasteners....The
Pemnut which somone metioned and works excellent and the Rivnut which you can lookup here http://www.bollhoff-rivnut.com/ Either one will solve your problem if you go that route......WZ1U On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 18:33:09 GMT, "Joel" wrote: I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited success with copper braid in the hole, but it's not permanent, and I hate the thought of fine copper pieces floating around in the equipment. I was more thinking of maybe something to fill the hold and then re-tap it. I could re-tap the hold bigger but then it would look out of place and have to re-tap them all. Mostly this is a cabinet where on piece of metal overlaps the other and the back piece is taped. Anyone have any words of wisdom? Joe AG4QC |
I work at a sheetmetal shop and use 2 very common fasteners....The
Pemnut which somone metioned and works excellent and the Rivnut which you can lookup here http://www.bollhoff-rivnut.com/ Either one will solve your problem if you go that route......WZ1U On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 18:33:09 GMT, "Joel" wrote: I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited success with copper braid in the hole, but it's not permanent, and I hate the thought of fine copper pieces floating around in the equipment. I was more thinking of maybe something to fill the hold and then re-tap it. I could re-tap the hold bigger but then it would look out of place and have to re-tap them all. Mostly this is a cabinet where on piece of metal overlaps the other and the back piece is taped. Anyone have any words of wisdom? Joe AG4QC |
In a hardware store's nuts & bolts section you'll probably find these in the
slide-out drawers. I know what you're thinking about but can't think of what they're really called. Those drawers are nice because they have pictures on them. (advanced hardware stores actually hotglue one onto the front of the drawer.) I doubt helicoils would work on sheet steel either. "Joel" wrote in message ... HeliCoils are great and I have used them on cars over the years. But the cabinets on most gear is sheet metal, and I doubt this would be the answer. But thinking about it, I know I have run into little 'U' shaped pieces of metal that slide over a hole and are taped. Maybe I can find something like that at a hardware store. That's if I knew what they were called... . "Fred McKenzie" wrote in message ... Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII |
In a hardware store's nuts & bolts section you'll probably find these in the
slide-out drawers. I know what you're thinking about but can't think of what they're really called. Those drawers are nice because they have pictures on them. (advanced hardware stores actually hotglue one onto the front of the drawer.) I doubt helicoils would work on sheet steel either. "Joel" wrote in message ... HeliCoils are great and I have used them on cars over the years. But the cabinets on most gear is sheet metal, and I doubt this would be the answer. But thinking about it, I know I have run into little 'U' shaped pieces of metal that slide over a hole and are taped. Maybe I can find something like that at a hardware store. That's if I knew what they were called... . "Fred McKenzie" wrote in message ... Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII |
Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great suggestion, and I'll keep looking at the other suggestions. "Joel" wrote in message ... Wow, what good suggestions. I think I saw a pop-rivet like your suggesting. That would be the perfect answer if it's not to thick on the face side as the two pieces of metal fit flush. I do have room on the backside for a short pop rivet. Hmm, I wonder where I can find these guys. I never really looked at the pop-rivet section of Home Deport or Lowes. I suppose it's just me. But after I fix up these old radios and get them working like new, I hate to have stripped out screws. shrug Joel - AG4QC "Michael" wrote in message . ca... "Joel" wrote in message ... I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that I use but there is a similar type shown here at http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just a casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the entire set. Hope this helps. Michael Beaveridge VE7YXX |
Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great suggestion, and I'll keep looking at the other suggestions. "Joel" wrote in message ... Wow, what good suggestions. I think I saw a pop-rivet like your suggesting. That would be the perfect answer if it's not to thick on the face side as the two pieces of metal fit flush. I do have room on the backside for a short pop rivet. Hmm, I wonder where I can find these guys. I never really looked at the pop-rivet section of Home Deport or Lowes. I suppose it's just me. But after I fix up these old radios and get them working like new, I hate to have stripped out screws. shrug Joel - AG4QC "Michael" wrote in message . ca... "Joel" wrote in message ... I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if anyone had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had limited I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that I use but there is a similar type shown here at http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just a casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the entire set. Hope this helps. Michael Beaveridge VE7YXX |
On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:16:35 +0200, Max wrote:
Hello Joel Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. I've used HeliCoils in engine blocks, but is there a 4-40 Heli ?? Getting real, the thickness of the threaded part (sheet metal) may only be 1/16 inch....three turns at the most. Lock-Tite may be the best answer. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane |
On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:16:35 +0200, Max wrote:
Hello Joel Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. I've used HeliCoils in engine blocks, but is there a 4-40 Heli ?? Getting real, the thickness of the threaded part (sheet metal) may only be 1/16 inch....three turns at the most. Lock-Tite may be the best answer. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane |
On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 04:06:51 GMT, "Phil Kane"
wrote: On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:16:35 +0200, Max wrote: Hello Joel Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. I've used HeliCoils in engine blocks, but is there a 4-40 Heli ?? Getting real, the thickness of the threaded part (sheet metal) may only be 1/16 inch....three turns at the most. Lock-Tite may be the best answer. 4-40 seems to be the smallest, although some charts show 2-56. Three turns is a bare minimum. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 04:06:51 GMT, "Phil Kane"
wrote: On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:16:35 +0200, Max wrote: Hello Joel Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. I've used HeliCoils in engine blocks, but is there a 4-40 Heli ?? Getting real, the thickness of the threaded part (sheet metal) may only be 1/16 inch....three turns at the most. Lock-Tite may be the best answer. 4-40 seems to be the smallest, although some charts show 2-56. Three turns is a bare minimum. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On 21 Jul 2003 00:26:21 GMT, (Fred McKenzie) wrote:
Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII These are called PEM nuts (from Pennsylvania Engineering and Manufacturing, the originator). This is a high-quality fastener that is used universally for providing machine-screw threads in sheet metal. Many different forms available. They work very well. The hole should be accurately drilled to size... this is important. And you should use the correct fastener for the thickness of the sheet metal involved. It takes a fair amount of force to install one, as it forms the aluminum into the recesses of the fastener under pressure. But once installed properly, the fastener is permanent and very reliable. 73 de Leigh W3NLB |
On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 02:53:40 GMT, Joel wrote:
Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great I have had good results using epoxy to glue a nut to the sheet metal behind the hole. Clean well the sheet metal and the nut, a bit of roughening with file is usually good, and epoxy it on. Make sure there is a nice fillet of epoxy around the nut for extra strength. I've also soldered the nut on, but I'll do whichever seems easiest as the time and usually epoxy is it. sdb -- | Sylvan Butler | Not speaking for Hewlett-Packard | sbutler-boi.hp.com | | Watch out for my e-mail address. Thank UCE. change ^ to @ | It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their consciences. -- C. S. Lewis |
On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 02:53:40 GMT, Joel wrote:
Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great I have had good results using epoxy to glue a nut to the sheet metal behind the hole. Clean well the sheet metal and the nut, a bit of roughening with file is usually good, and epoxy it on. Make sure there is a nice fillet of epoxy around the nut for extra strength. I've also soldered the nut on, but I'll do whichever seems easiest as the time and usually epoxy is it. sdb -- | Sylvan Butler | Not speaking for Hewlett-Packard | sbutler-boi.hp.com | | Watch out for my e-mail address. Thank UCE. change ^ to @ | It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their consciences. -- C. S. Lewis |
Strangely enough, it's called a U-Type nut!!!
See: http://www.allmetalssupply.com/u_type_nuts.htm -- 73, Paul (N0KIA) Alan P. Biddle wrote: Joe, Go to a hardware store and ask. I can't remember the same, but there is a commercial product, usually hanging on a peg at the end of an isle, which looks like some small strips of aluminum foil. You push one, or more, into the hole, insert the screw, and tear off the excess. It molds itself to the hole and does not easily fall out, though you can remove it if you want. I have used it for what you want, and at least for me it worked fine. Works on much larger screws as well. -- Alan WA4SCA |
Strangely enough, it's called a U-Type nut!!!
See: http://www.allmetalssupply.com/u_type_nuts.htm -- 73, Paul (N0KIA) Alan P. Biddle wrote: Joe, Go to a hardware store and ask. I can't remember the same, but there is a commercial product, usually hanging on a peg at the end of an isle, which looks like some small strips of aluminum foil. You push one, or more, into the hole, insert the screw, and tear off the excess. It molds itself to the hole and does not easily fall out, though you can remove it if you want. I have used it for what you want, and at least for me it worked fine. Works on much larger screws as well. -- Alan WA4SCA |
Strangely enough, it's called a U-Type nut!!!
See: http://www.allmetalssupply.com/u_type_nuts.htm -- 73, Paul (N0KIA) Joel wrote: HeliCoils are great and I have used them on cars over the years. But the cabinets on most gear is sheet metal, and I doubt this would be the answer. But thinking about it, I know I have run into little 'U' shaped pieces of metal that slide over a hole and are taped. Maybe I can find something like that at a hardware store. That's if I knew what they were called... . "Fred McKenzie" wrote in message ... Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII |
Strangely enough, it's called a U-Type nut!!!
See: http://www.allmetalssupply.com/u_type_nuts.htm -- 73, Paul (N0KIA) Joel wrote: HeliCoils are great and I have used them on cars over the years. But the cabinets on most gear is sheet metal, and I doubt this would be the answer. But thinking about it, I know I have run into little 'U' shaped pieces of metal that slide over a hole and are taped. Maybe I can find something like that at a hardware store. That's if I knew what they were called... . "Fred McKenzie" wrote in message ... Anyone have any words of wisdom? The word of wisdom here is HeliCoil. Joel & Max- I was about to reply with Max's suggestion when I read his. I did a search on HeliCoil and came up with: http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil1.html http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html and http://www.ezlok.com/ Of the first two, one may be the manufacturer and the other a distributor, but that isn't clear. The third appears to be a similar competitor. I would start by checking with a local hardware store to see if they have heard of HeliCoil or EZ Lok. These require the original threads to be in a somewhat thick piece of metal. There is also a system for sheet metal I've seen used in Hewlett Packard and other equipment. Something like a thick washer is threaded and pressed into a hole in the sheet metal. I don't know if this is available for the repair industry, or if it is custom made by the companies that use it. 73, Fred, K4DII |
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