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#1
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I have an old Murch Ultimate Transmatch that I would like to put a switch in
so that I can switch the transmatch in or out of the circuit. What kind of switch should I use that will handle the 2KW power rating of the transmatch? Thanks in advance for any advice. Cal Barton WB5CYS |
#2
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Almost any kind of switch you want, including the miniatures, providing that
you don't do the toggling during the transmit mode. Jim "Beech Creek" wrote in message t... I have an old Murch Ultimate Transmatch that I would like to put a switch in so that I can switch the transmatch in or out of the circuit. What kind of switch should I use that will handle the 2KW power rating of the transmatch? Thanks in advance for any advice. Cal Barton WB5CYS |
#3
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![]() "RST Engineering" wrote in message ... Almost any kind of switch you want, including the miniatures, providing that you don't do the toggling during the transmit mode. Jim "Beech Creek" wrote in message t... I have an old Murch Ultimate Transmatch that I would like to put a switch in so that I can switch the transmatch in or out of the circuit. What kind of switch should I use that will handle the 2KW power rating of the transmatch? Thanks in advance for any advice. Cal Barton WB5CYS Yes, take a look at most amps including the one you are using the antenna realy is probably nothing special, just a heavy duty DPDT relay. |
#4
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On Apr 1, 1:16 am, "Beech Creek" wrote:
I have an old Murch Ultimate Transmatch that I would like to put a switch in so that I can switch the transmatch in or out of the circuit. What kind of switch should I use that will handle the 2KW power rating of the transmatch? Thanks in advance for any advice. Cal Barton WB5CYS The switch has to handle not only the 50 ohm input, but the output, whatever that may be. Note that 2kW at 10 ohms is 14 amps RMS, and at RF where the current flows on the surface of the conductors and resistance is quite a bit greater than at DC, you can get a lot of heating with 14 amps. And note that 2kW at, say, 600 ohms is over 1000 volts RMS. At that sort of power level, where you don't really know what impedance you're driving, I'd suggest you should be using a pretty heavy-duty ceramic switch, heavy contacts and wide spacing. I wouldn't even think of using a "miniature" switch in an application like that. If things stayed at 50 ohms, you'd only need to handle a relatively puny 6.3A and 316V RMS, but if things stayed at 50 ohms, you wouldn't need an antenna tuner, would you? Cheers, Tom |
#5
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![]() "K7ITM" wrote in message ups.com... On Apr 1, 1:16 am, "Beech Creek" wrote: I have an old Murch Ultimate Transmatch that I would like to put a switch in so that I can switch the transmatch in or out of the circuit. What kind of switch should I use that will handle the 2KW power rating of the transmatch? Thanks in advance for any advice. Cal Barton WB5CYS The switch has to handle not only the 50 ohm input, but the output, whatever that may be. Note that 2kW at 10 ohms is 14 amps RMS, and at RF where the current flows on the surface of the conductors and resistance is quite a bit greater than at DC, you can get a lot of heating with 14 amps. And note that 2kW at, say, 600 ohms is over 1000 volts RMS. At that sort of power level, where you don't really know what impedance you're driving, I'd suggest you should be using a pretty heavy-duty ceramic switch, heavy contacts and wide spacing. I wouldn't even think of using a "miniature" switch in an application like that. If things stayed at 50 ohms, you'd only need to handle a relatively puny 6.3A and 316V RMS, but if things stayed at 50 ohms, you wouldn't need an antenna tuner, would you? Cheers, Tom Of course one would assume the only time he would use the switch is when working into 50 ohms, either the input to the tuner or the input of a 50 ohm more or less antenna. Jimmie |
#6
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On May 2, 7:04 am, "Jimmie D" wrote:
"K7ITM" wrote in message ups.com... On Apr 1, 1:16 am, "Beech Creek" wrote: I have an old Murch Ultimate Transmatch that I would like to put a switch in so that I can switch the transmatch in or out of the circuit. What kind of switch should I use that will handle the 2KW power rating of the transmatch? Thanks in advance for any advice. Cal Barton WB5CYS The switch has to handle not only the 50 ohm input, but the output, whatever that may be. Note that 2kW at 10 ohms is 14 amps RMS, and at RF where the current flows on the surface of the conductors and resistance is quite a bit greater than at DC, you can get a lot of heating with 14 amps. And note that 2kW at, say, 600 ohms is over 1000 volts RMS. At that sort of power level, where you don't really know what impedance you're driving, I'd suggest you should be using a pretty heavy-duty ceramic switch, heavy contacts and wide spacing. I wouldn't even think of using a "miniature" switch in an application like that. If things stayed at 50 ohms, you'd only need to handle a relatively puny 6.3A and 316V RMS, but if things stayed at 50 ohms, you wouldn't need an antenna tuner, would you? Cheers, Tom Of course one would assume the only time he would use the switch is when working into 50 ohms, either the input to the tuner or the input of a 50 ohm more or less antenna. Jimmie ;-) Well, when I read "switch the transmatch in or out of the circuit," I envision switching both ends of it. If indeed it's a switch to select between antennas that don't need a tuner and one that does, where that antenna is always connected to the tuner output, then a more modest range of impedances could be assumed. I'd assume at least 2:1 SWR relative to 50 ohms, though; a typical 2kW amplifier would have a tuned output that likely could handle that range easily. So even then you're getting into possible currents and voltages I wouldn't trust to just any old switch I found kicking around. I do understand that a common ham design philosophy is, "build it with whatever's around and if it fails, rebuild it with something a bit beefier." I'd prefer to put a bit of thought into the anticipated worst-case stress levels before I build it, but that's just my personal feeling. Cheers, Tom |
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