On Tue, 5 Aug 2003 18:01:25 -0600, Sylvan Butler
d wrotF:

On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 20:48:55 +0100, Ian White, G3SEK wrote:
Roy Lewallen wrote:
control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8
or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I
don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of
weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall.

A standard electrical cable gland will weatherproof the cable going
through the box wall (or whatever you call that thing with a
compressible rubber washer that squeezes down onto the cable). That

That's what I call them, but I have no idea if that is standard
terminology here in the States.

would leaves an in-line connector pair which is a good shape to wrap
with tape, so it needn't be inherently waterproof.

Yup. That's what I'd do.

sdb

We call them cord grips at work. Pipe thread on one side, and a
compression gasket arrangement on the other. Available in metal or
plastic. Thomas&Betts and Hubbell are a couple of the brands we use.
They provide strain relief and a water tight seal to cords coming in
and out of electrical panels.

On Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:36:01 +0100, "Ian White, G3SEK"
wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

That looks like a common "liquid tight" bushing used to run a
flexible cable from an outdoor electrical box to a piece of machinery,
or an outdoor light using SJ or SJ-T type rubber jacketed cable. They
are available in plastic or machined aluminum from most electrical
distributors.

I knew they had to exist in the USA, because the same thing needs to be
done wherever in the world you go.

So UK "cable gland" = US "liquid tight cable bushing"?

As a final check, do the people behind the counter in the electrical
distributors speak the same language?

Please don't ask why they're called "glands" over here. I believe it's
an old steam-age term for a part that looks rather similar... but it
still doesn't say much for those old-time engineers' knowledge of
anatomy.

A gland is a term for a liquid-tight seal on a moving/rotating shaft
in some industries here. Probably does go back to steam engines.

Some similar things might be called "explosion proof". This doesn't
mean it will be untouched in an explosion, but that flammable gases
won't get into the earea where sparks could happen in a switch or
other electrical device inside the enclosure.

Look to an industrial electrical supplier, not a residential-oriented
one.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

On Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:36:01 +0100, "Ian White, G3SEK"
wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

That looks like a common "liquid tight" bushing used to run a
flexible cable from an outdoor electrical box to a piece of machinery,
or an outdoor light using SJ or SJ-T type rubber jacketed cable. They
are available in plastic or machined aluminum from most electrical
distributors.

I knew they had to exist in the USA, because the same thing needs to be
done wherever in the world you go.

So UK "cable gland" = US "liquid tight cable bushing"?

As a final check, do the people behind the counter in the electrical
distributors speak the same language?

Please don't ask why they're called "glands" over here. I believe it's
an old steam-age term for a part that looks rather similar... but it
still doesn't say much for those old-time engineers' knowledge of
anatomy.

A gland is a term for a liquid-tight seal on a moving/rotating shaft
in some industries here. Probably does go back to steam engines.

Some similar things might be called "explosion proof". This doesn't
mean it will be untouched in an explosion, but that flammable gases
won't get into the earea where sparks could happen in a switch or
other electrical device inside the enclosure.

Look to an industrial electrical supplier, not a residential-oriented
one.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Thanks, all.

I'll check with an electrical supplier.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Thanks, all.

I'll check with an electrical supplier.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Any Home Depot or Lowes will have these, two to a bag under $ 2.00
At HD they are in the same aisle with the romex clamps and all emt/rigid
fittings.



m wrote...

We call them cord grips at work. Pipe thread on one side, and a
compression gasket arrangement on the other. Available in metal or
plastic. Thomas&Betts and Hubbell are a couple of the brands we use.
They provide strain relief and a water tight seal to cords coming in
and out of electrical panels.

Any Home Depot or Lowes will have these, two to a bag under $ 2.00
At HD they are in the same aisle with the romex clamps and all emt/rigid
fittings.



m wrote...

We call them cord grips at work. Pipe thread on one side, and a
compression gasket arrangement on the other. Available in metal or
plastic. Thomas&Betts and Hubbell are a couple of the brands we use.
They provide strain relief and a water tight seal to cords coming in
and out of electrical panels.

Look under the hood at the engine compartment bulkhead of junked automobiles.
You'll find all types of multi-conductor, water-proof, feed through
connectrors,

Ted in Atlanta

Oscar wrote:

here is a link for photo of a jbox you will never have to replace !

http://www.carlon.com/Brochures/2B10...ctionBoxes.pdf

Available at any home depot in electrical dept. under $ 20
depending on the size you need. You can drill it to accept
the weathertight strain relief that another poster recommended.

regards.

Roy wrote:

For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among
antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and
have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus
store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays.
I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof
construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I
want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors,
and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use
an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and
strain relieving wires going through the box wall.

There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I
need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc.
I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything
quite right.

Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set?

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Look under the hood at the engine compartment bulkhead of junked automobiles.
You'll find all types of multi-conductor, water-proof, feed through
connectrors,

Ted in Atlanta

Oscar wrote:

here is a link for photo of a jbox you will never have to replace !

http://www.carlon.com/Brochures/2B10...ctionBoxes.pdf

Available at any home depot in electrical dept. under $ 20
depending on the size you need. You can drill it to accept
the weathertight strain relief that another poster recommended.

regards.

Roy wrote:

For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among
antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and
have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus
store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays.
I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof
construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I
want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors,
and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use
an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and
strain relieving wires going through the box wall.

There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I
need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc.
I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything
quite right.

Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set?

Roy Lewallen, W7EL