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Connector advice
For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among
antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
Roy Lewallen wrote:
For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? I'd take a look at the "circular plastic connectors" sold by Digi-Key. (among others) They're not inherently weatherproof but some silicon sealant will make them that way. That's what's used on the pan/tilt heads that aim the transmit antennas on TV microwave remote trucks - certainly at least as difficult an application as what you're doing. The connectors far outlast the drive gears! -- Doug Smith W9WI Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66 http://www.w9wi.com |
Roy Lewallen wrote:
For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? I'd take a look at the "circular plastic connectors" sold by Digi-Key. (among others) They're not inherently weatherproof but some silicon sealant will make them that way. That's what's used on the pan/tilt heads that aim the transmit antennas on TV microwave remote trucks - certainly at least as difficult an application as what you're doing. The connectors far outlast the drive gears! -- Doug Smith W9WI Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66 http://www.w9wi.com |
Roy Lewallen wrote:
For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. A standard electrical cable gland will weatherproof the cable going through the box wall (or whatever you call that thing with a compressible rubber washer that squeezes down onto the cable). That would leaves an in-line connector pair which is a good shape to wrap with tape, so it needn't be inherently waterproof. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? There's a fundamental strong repulsive force that pushes matching surplus plugs and sockets to opposite ends of the Universe. I had some success with mounting a DIN plug and socket inside any old MIL connector shells for waterproofing. The only requirement is that the MIL housings are compatible - I'm presuming that the pin configurations don't match (see above) but that doesn't matter because you strip them all out. Remove the backshells (cable clamps and water seals) and drill out the insides of the two MIL connectors to accept the two DIN connectors. Then mate the two MIL housings together (still with the backshells removed for access), push the DINs together inside the MIL housings and epoxy each half into its MIL shell. You now have a waterproof DIN connector. I hope that makes enough sense... The DIN connectors are OK for relay-type currents. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
Roy Lewallen wrote:
For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. A standard electrical cable gland will weatherproof the cable going through the box wall (or whatever you call that thing with a compressible rubber washer that squeezes down onto the cable). That would leaves an in-line connector pair which is a good shape to wrap with tape, so it needn't be inherently waterproof. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? There's a fundamental strong repulsive force that pushes matching surplus plugs and sockets to opposite ends of the Universe. I had some success with mounting a DIN plug and socket inside any old MIL connector shells for waterproofing. The only requirement is that the MIL housings are compatible - I'm presuming that the pin configurations don't match (see above) but that doesn't matter because you strip them all out. Remove the backshells (cable clamps and water seals) and drill out the insides of the two MIL connectors to accept the two DIN connectors. Then mate the two MIL housings together (still with the backshells removed for access), push the DINs together inside the MIL housings and epoxy each half into its MIL shell. You now have a waterproof DIN connector. I hope that makes enough sense... The DIN connectors are OK for relay-type currents. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
I wasn't able to find such a thing in the (quite elaborate) electrical
department of a large DIY store. Is this something used in electrical mains wiring (which is what the DIY store carries), or for some other purpose? In this country, it's long been standard practice to bring mains power into a house via a "weather head", which is a pipe bent into a U shape, so the wires enter it upward. There's a rubber grommet for the three large diameter mains wires built in. This is very effective for its intended use, but not useful for my purpose. I've never seen modern electrical wiring run directly through an outside wall, if that's the function of the "gland". I'll try looking at a large electronics store next time I'm there. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Sylvan Butler wrote: On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 20:48:55 +0100, Ian White, G3SEK wrote: Roy Lewallen wrote: control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. A standard electrical cable gland will weatherproof the cable going through the box wall (or whatever you call that thing with a compressible rubber washer that squeezes down onto the cable). That That's what I call them, but I have no idea if that is standard terminology here in the States. would leaves an in-line connector pair which is a good shape to wrap with tape, so it needn't be inherently waterproof. Yup. That's what I'd do. sdb |
I wasn't able to find such a thing in the (quite elaborate) electrical
department of a large DIY store. Is this something used in electrical mains wiring (which is what the DIY store carries), or for some other purpose? In this country, it's long been standard practice to bring mains power into a house via a "weather head", which is a pipe bent into a U shape, so the wires enter it upward. There's a rubber grommet for the three large diameter mains wires built in. This is very effective for its intended use, but not useful for my purpose. I've never seen modern electrical wiring run directly through an outside wall, if that's the function of the "gland". I'll try looking at a large electronics store next time I'm there. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Sylvan Butler wrote: On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 20:48:55 +0100, Ian White, G3SEK wrote: Roy Lewallen wrote: control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. A standard electrical cable gland will weatherproof the cable going through the box wall (or whatever you call that thing with a compressible rubber washer that squeezes down onto the cable). That That's what I call them, but I have no idea if that is standard terminology here in the States. would leaves an in-line connector pair which is a good shape to wrap with tape, so it needn't be inherently waterproof. Yup. That's what I'd do. sdb |
Roy Lewallen wrote:
I wasn't able to find such a thing in the (quite elaborate) electrical department of a large DIY store. Is this something used in electrical mains wiring (which is what the DIY store carries), or for some other purpose? In this country, it's long been standard practice to bring mains power into a house via a "weather head", which is a pipe bent into a U shape, so the wires enter it upward. There's a rubber grommet for the three large diameter mains wires built in. This is very effective for its intended use, but not useful for my purpose. I've never seen modern electrical wiring run directly through an outside wall, if that's the function of the "gland". I'll try looking at a large electronics store next time I'm there. These things have GOT to exist in the USA, but clearly the name is different. They are used with metal conduit-and-box wiring systems, wherever you want to bring a flexible cable out through the wall of a conduit box with better waterproofing than a plain grommet. Go to www.farnell.com/uk and search for part # 3034367 - click for details and this should give a reasonable picture. The outside of the fixed part looks rather like a through-bulkhead double female N connector. It goes through the box wall, with some kind of O-ring seal, and is fixed with a single large nut. The cable threads through the inside, and is sealed by a rubber ring and a screw-down cap. Result - a completely waterproof lead-through. All together now: "Oh, ya mean a [Fill In The Blank] - why didn't ya *say* so?" Anyway, the whole point was that these [FITB] things are available in cheap plastic, and are ideal for getting cables through the walls of plastic or metal boxes in a totally waterproof way. You can install in-line connectors on the 'tails' of cable if necessary, and they make a very easy shape to wrap with waterproofing tape. This is vastly better than installing chassis-mount connectors on the box wall, and then trying to wrap tape onto a very difficult shape. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
Roy Lewallen wrote:
I wasn't able to find such a thing in the (quite elaborate) electrical department of a large DIY store. Is this something used in electrical mains wiring (which is what the DIY store carries), or for some other purpose? In this country, it's long been standard practice to bring mains power into a house via a "weather head", which is a pipe bent into a U shape, so the wires enter it upward. There's a rubber grommet for the three large diameter mains wires built in. This is very effective for its intended use, but not useful for my purpose. I've never seen modern electrical wiring run directly through an outside wall, if that's the function of the "gland". I'll try looking at a large electronics store next time I'm there. These things have GOT to exist in the USA, but clearly the name is different. They are used with metal conduit-and-box wiring systems, wherever you want to bring a flexible cable out through the wall of a conduit box with better waterproofing than a plain grommet. Go to www.farnell.com/uk and search for part # 3034367 - click for details and this should give a reasonable picture. The outside of the fixed part looks rather like a through-bulkhead double female N connector. It goes through the box wall, with some kind of O-ring seal, and is fixed with a single large nut. The cable threads through the inside, and is sealed by a rubber ring and a screw-down cap. Result - a completely waterproof lead-through. All together now: "Oh, ya mean a [Fill In The Blank] - why didn't ya *say* so?" Anyway, the whole point was that these [FITB] things are available in cheap plastic, and are ideal for getting cables through the walls of plastic or metal boxes in a totally waterproof way. You can install in-line connectors on the 'tails' of cable if necessary, and they make a very easy shape to wrap with waterproofing tape. This is vastly better than installing chassis-mount connectors on the box wall, and then trying to wrap tape onto a very difficult shape. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
Thanks for the reference. The closest thing I found to that was
something roughly similar for what we call Romex wire -- flattish, vinyl insulated three-conductor (called two conductor with ground) wire used for house wiring. I'm not sure it was weatherproof, though. It would be harder to seal something of that shape than it would to seal something round. I suspect that the part you referenced is uncommon here because of the larger gauge of our house wiring due to the lower distribution voltage. Wire smaller than AWG14 (SWG15) isn't used except for lamp and appliance cords and the like, never for fixed wiring. The AWG14 or 12 wire used for house wiring is virtually always in flat Romex cable. (Four conductor 220 volt wire is round but large diameter.) Interior wiring is secured to boxes with clamps which are definitely not weatherproof. Exterior wiring is virtually always in conduit between boxes. I found a number of weatherproof clamp-type fittings for conduit, with similar construction to the Farnell part, but the inner diameter is much too large for the small cable I'll be using. It's been a long time since I looked carefully at the code, but I'd be very surprised if exterior wiring is permitted outside of conduit under any circumstances. Maybe I should just send my 42p to Farnell. . . Hm, better yet, there's a cottage in Wales we've been told needs beta testing, so maybe we can kill two birds with one stone. . . I'll check the electronics store. Maybe someone imports them and sells them for other applications. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Ian White, G3SEK wrote: These things have GOT to exist in the USA, but clearly the name is different. They are used with metal conduit-and-box wiring systems, wherever you want to bring a flexible cable out through the wall of a conduit box with better waterproofing than a plain grommet. Go to www.farnell.com/uk and search for part # 3034367 - click for details and this should give a reasonable picture. The outside of the fixed part looks rather like a through-bulkhead double female N connector. It goes through the box wall, with some kind of O-ring seal, and is fixed with a single large nut. The cable threads through the inside, and is sealed by a rubber ring and a screw-down cap. Result - a completely waterproof lead-through. All together now: "Oh, ya mean a [Fill In The Blank] - why didn't ya *say* so?" Anyway, the whole point was that these [FITB] things are available in cheap plastic, and are ideal for getting cables through the walls of plastic or metal boxes in a totally waterproof way. You can install in-line connectors on the 'tails' of cable if necessary, and they make a very easy shape to wrap with waterproofing tape. This is vastly better than installing chassis-mount connectors on the box wall, and then trying to wrap tape onto a very difficult shape. |
Thanks for the reference. The closest thing I found to that was
something roughly similar for what we call Romex wire -- flattish, vinyl insulated three-conductor (called two conductor with ground) wire used for house wiring. I'm not sure it was weatherproof, though. It would be harder to seal something of that shape than it would to seal something round. I suspect that the part you referenced is uncommon here because of the larger gauge of our house wiring due to the lower distribution voltage. Wire smaller than AWG14 (SWG15) isn't used except for lamp and appliance cords and the like, never for fixed wiring. The AWG14 or 12 wire used for house wiring is virtually always in flat Romex cable. (Four conductor 220 volt wire is round but large diameter.) Interior wiring is secured to boxes with clamps which are definitely not weatherproof. Exterior wiring is virtually always in conduit between boxes. I found a number of weatherproof clamp-type fittings for conduit, with similar construction to the Farnell part, but the inner diameter is much too large for the small cable I'll be using. It's been a long time since I looked carefully at the code, but I'd be very surprised if exterior wiring is permitted outside of conduit under any circumstances. Maybe I should just send my 42p to Farnell. . . Hm, better yet, there's a cottage in Wales we've been told needs beta testing, so maybe we can kill two birds with one stone. . . I'll check the electronics store. Maybe someone imports them and sells them for other applications. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Ian White, G3SEK wrote: These things have GOT to exist in the USA, but clearly the name is different. They are used with metal conduit-and-box wiring systems, wherever you want to bring a flexible cable out through the wall of a conduit box with better waterproofing than a plain grommet. Go to www.farnell.com/uk and search for part # 3034367 - click for details and this should give a reasonable picture. The outside of the fixed part looks rather like a through-bulkhead double female N connector. It goes through the box wall, with some kind of O-ring seal, and is fixed with a single large nut. The cable threads through the inside, and is sealed by a rubber ring and a screw-down cap. Result - a completely waterproof lead-through. All together now: "Oh, ya mean a [Fill In The Blank] - why didn't ya *say* so?" Anyway, the whole point was that these [FITB] things are available in cheap plastic, and are ideal for getting cables through the walls of plastic or metal boxes in a totally waterproof way. You can install in-line connectors on the 'tails' of cable if necessary, and they make a very easy shape to wrap with waterproofing tape. This is vastly better than installing chassis-mount connectors on the box wall, and then trying to wrap tape onto a very difficult shape. |
On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 03:07:58 -0700, Roy Lewallen
wrote: Thanks for the reference. The closest thing I found to that was something roughly similar for what we call Romex wire -- flattish, vinyl insulated three-conductor (called two conductor with ground) wire used for house wiring. I'm not sure it was weatherproof, though. It would be harder to seal something of that shape than it would to seal something round. I suspect that the part you referenced is uncommon here because of the larger gauge of our house wiring due to the lower distribution voltage. Wire smaller than AWG14 (SWG15) isn't used except for lamp and appliance cords and the like, never for fixed wiring. The AWG14 or 12 wire used for house wiring is virtually always in flat Romex cable. (Four conductor 220 volt wire is round but large diameter.) Interior wiring is secured to boxes with clamps which are definitely not weatherproof. Exterior wiring is virtually always in conduit between boxes. I found a number of weatherproof clamp-type fittings for conduit, with similar construction to the Farnell part, but the inner diameter is much too large for the small cable I'll be using. It's been a long time since I looked carefully at the code, but I'd be very surprised if exterior wiring is permitted outside of conduit under any circumstances. Maybe I should just send my 42p to Farnell. . . Hm, better yet, there's a cottage in Wales we've been told needs beta testing, so maybe we can kill two birds with one stone. . . I'll check the electronics store. Maybe someone imports them and sells them for other applications. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Ian White, G3SEK wrote: These things have GOT to exist in the USA, but clearly the name is different. They are used with metal conduit-and-box wiring systems, wherever you want to bring a flexible cable out through the wall of a conduit box with better waterproofing than a plain grommet. Go to www.farnell.com/uk and search for part # 3034367 - click for details and this should give a reasonable picture. The outside of the fixed part looks rather like a through-bulkhead double female N connector. It goes through the box wall, with some kind of O-ring seal, and is fixed with a single large nut. The cable threads through the inside, and is sealed by a rubber ring and a screw-down cap. Result - a completely waterproof lead-through. All together now: "Oh, ya mean a [Fill In The Blank] - why didn't ya *say* so?" Anyway, the whole point was that these [FITB] things are available in cheap plastic, and are ideal for getting cables through the walls of plastic or metal boxes in a totally waterproof way. You can install in-line connectors on the 'tails' of cable if necessary, and they make a very easy shape to wrap with waterproofing tape. This is vastly better than installing chassis-mount connectors on the box wall, and then trying to wrap tape onto a very difficult shape. How about cannon connectors? or if you are looking just to have the cable entrance water tight and not removable then look at thomas & bettes they make all sorts of sizes of water proof box entry fittings. If not too many pins Hubble makes marine grade plugs and receptacles. Gary K8IZ Washington State Resident Registered Linux User # 312991 |
On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 03:07:58 -0700, Roy Lewallen
wrote: Thanks for the reference. The closest thing I found to that was something roughly similar for what we call Romex wire -- flattish, vinyl insulated three-conductor (called two conductor with ground) wire used for house wiring. I'm not sure it was weatherproof, though. It would be harder to seal something of that shape than it would to seal something round. I suspect that the part you referenced is uncommon here because of the larger gauge of our house wiring due to the lower distribution voltage. Wire smaller than AWG14 (SWG15) isn't used except for lamp and appliance cords and the like, never for fixed wiring. The AWG14 or 12 wire used for house wiring is virtually always in flat Romex cable. (Four conductor 220 volt wire is round but large diameter.) Interior wiring is secured to boxes with clamps which are definitely not weatherproof. Exterior wiring is virtually always in conduit between boxes. I found a number of weatherproof clamp-type fittings for conduit, with similar construction to the Farnell part, but the inner diameter is much too large for the small cable I'll be using. It's been a long time since I looked carefully at the code, but I'd be very surprised if exterior wiring is permitted outside of conduit under any circumstances. Maybe I should just send my 42p to Farnell. . . Hm, better yet, there's a cottage in Wales we've been told needs beta testing, so maybe we can kill two birds with one stone. . . I'll check the electronics store. Maybe someone imports them and sells them for other applications. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Ian White, G3SEK wrote: These things have GOT to exist in the USA, but clearly the name is different. They are used with metal conduit-and-box wiring systems, wherever you want to bring a flexible cable out through the wall of a conduit box with better waterproofing than a plain grommet. Go to www.farnell.com/uk and search for part # 3034367 - click for details and this should give a reasonable picture. The outside of the fixed part looks rather like a through-bulkhead double female N connector. It goes through the box wall, with some kind of O-ring seal, and is fixed with a single large nut. The cable threads through the inside, and is sealed by a rubber ring and a screw-down cap. Result - a completely waterproof lead-through. All together now: "Oh, ya mean a [Fill In The Blank] - why didn't ya *say* so?" Anyway, the whole point was that these [FITB] things are available in cheap plastic, and are ideal for getting cables through the walls of plastic or metal boxes in a totally waterproof way. You can install in-line connectors on the 'tails' of cable if necessary, and they make a very easy shape to wrap with waterproofing tape. This is vastly better than installing chassis-mount connectors on the box wall, and then trying to wrap tape onto a very difficult shape. How about cannon connectors? or if you are looking just to have the cable entrance water tight and not removable then look at thomas & bettes they make all sorts of sizes of water proof box entry fittings. If not too many pins Hubble makes marine grade plugs and receptacles. Gary K8IZ Washington State Resident Registered Linux User # 312991 |
Roy Lewallen wrote in message ...
For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? Roy Lewallen, W7EL Remember the cardinal rules of waterproofing switch/relay boxes, vis use good quality connectors carefully waterproof all connector in/outs seal box with appropriate rated sealant and, lastly, drill a small hole in the bottom of the box for water to drain out.... de VK3BFA Andrew |
Roy Lewallen wrote in message ...
For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? Roy Lewallen, W7EL Remember the cardinal rules of waterproofing switch/relay boxes, vis use good quality connectors carefully waterproof all connector in/outs seal box with appropriate rated sealant and, lastly, drill a small hole in the bottom of the box for water to drain out.... de VK3BFA Andrew |
These things have GOT to exist in the USA, but clearly the name is different. They are used with metal conduit-and-box wiring systems, wherever you want to bring a flexible cable out through the wall of a conduit box with better waterproofing than a plain grommet. Not quite the same, but perhaps usable are the split gromets. See MSC's on line catalog http://www.mscdirect.com at page 3643, or search for "split cable entry system" using their site search engine. Or, you could use a standard cable entry boot from Andrew http://216.91.65.4/pdfs/andrew/221213.pdf Jack K8ZOA |
These things have GOT to exist in the USA, but clearly the name is different. They are used with metal conduit-and-box wiring systems, wherever you want to bring a flexible cable out through the wall of a conduit box with better waterproofing than a plain grommet. Not quite the same, but perhaps usable are the split gromets. See MSC's on line catalog http://www.mscdirect.com at page 3643, or search for "split cable entry system" using their site search engine. Or, you could use a standard cable entry boot from Andrew http://216.91.65.4/pdfs/andrew/221213.pdf Jack K8ZOA |
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
That looks like a common "liquid tight" bushing used to run a flexible cable from an outdoor electrical box to a piece of machinery, or an outdoor light using SJ or SJ-T type rubber jacketed cable. They are available in plastic or machined aluminum from most electrical distributors. I knew they had to exist in the USA, because the same thing needs to be done wherever in the world you go. So UK "cable gland" = US "liquid tight cable bushing"? As a final check, do the people behind the counter in the electrical distributors speak the same language? Please don't ask why they're called "glands" over here. I believe it's an old steam-age term for a part that looks rather similar... but it still doesn't say much for those old-time engineers' knowledge of anatomy. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
That looks like a common "liquid tight" bushing used to run a flexible cable from an outdoor electrical box to a piece of machinery, or an outdoor light using SJ or SJ-T type rubber jacketed cable. They are available in plastic or machined aluminum from most electrical distributors. I knew they had to exist in the USA, because the same thing needs to be done wherever in the world you go. So UK "cable gland" = US "liquid tight cable bushing"? As a final check, do the people behind the counter in the electrical distributors speak the same language? Please don't ask why they're called "glands" over here. I believe it's an old steam-age term for a part that looks rather similar... but it still doesn't say much for those old-time engineers' knowledge of anatomy. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
On Tue, 5 Aug 2003 18:01:25 -0600, Sylvan Butler
d wrotF: On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 20:48:55 +0100, Ian White, G3SEK wrote: Roy Lewallen wrote: control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. A standard electrical cable gland will weatherproof the cable going through the box wall (or whatever you call that thing with a compressible rubber washer that squeezes down onto the cable). That That's what I call them, but I have no idea if that is standard terminology here in the States. would leaves an in-line connector pair which is a good shape to wrap with tape, so it needn't be inherently waterproof. Yup. That's what I'd do. sdb We call them cord grips at work. Pipe thread on one side, and a compression gasket arrangement on the other. Available in metal or plastic. Thomas&Betts and Hubbell are a couple of the brands we use. They provide strain relief and a water tight seal to cords coming in and out of electrical panels. |
On Tue, 5 Aug 2003 18:01:25 -0600, Sylvan Butler
d wrotF: On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 20:48:55 +0100, Ian White, G3SEK wrote: Roy Lewallen wrote: control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. A standard electrical cable gland will weatherproof the cable going through the box wall (or whatever you call that thing with a compressible rubber washer that squeezes down onto the cable). That That's what I call them, but I have no idea if that is standard terminology here in the States. would leaves an in-line connector pair which is a good shape to wrap with tape, so it needn't be inherently waterproof. Yup. That's what I'd do. sdb We call them cord grips at work. Pipe thread on one side, and a compression gasket arrangement on the other. Available in metal or plastic. Thomas&Betts and Hubbell are a couple of the brands we use. They provide strain relief and a water tight seal to cords coming in and out of electrical panels. |
On Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:36:01 +0100, "Ian White, G3SEK"
wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: That looks like a common "liquid tight" bushing used to run a flexible cable from an outdoor electrical box to a piece of machinery, or an outdoor light using SJ or SJ-T type rubber jacketed cable. They are available in plastic or machined aluminum from most electrical distributors. I knew they had to exist in the USA, because the same thing needs to be done wherever in the world you go. So UK "cable gland" = US "liquid tight cable bushing"? As a final check, do the people behind the counter in the electrical distributors speak the same language? Please don't ask why they're called "glands" over here. I believe it's an old steam-age term for a part that looks rather similar... but it still doesn't say much for those old-time engineers' knowledge of anatomy. A gland is a term for a liquid-tight seal on a moving/rotating shaft in some industries here. Probably does go back to steam engines. Some similar things might be called "explosion proof". This doesn't mean it will be untouched in an explosion, but that flammable gases won't get into the earea where sparks could happen in a switch or other electrical device inside the enclosure. Look to an industrial electrical supplier, not a residential-oriented one. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
On Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:36:01 +0100, "Ian White, G3SEK"
wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: That looks like a common "liquid tight" bushing used to run a flexible cable from an outdoor electrical box to a piece of machinery, or an outdoor light using SJ or SJ-T type rubber jacketed cable. They are available in plastic or machined aluminum from most electrical distributors. I knew they had to exist in the USA, because the same thing needs to be done wherever in the world you go. So UK "cable gland" = US "liquid tight cable bushing"? As a final check, do the people behind the counter in the electrical distributors speak the same language? Please don't ask why they're called "glands" over here. I believe it's an old steam-age term for a part that looks rather similar... but it still doesn't say much for those old-time engineers' knowledge of anatomy. A gland is a term for a liquid-tight seal on a moving/rotating shaft in some industries here. Probably does go back to steam engines. Some similar things might be called "explosion proof". This doesn't mean it will be untouched in an explosion, but that flammable gases won't get into the earea where sparks could happen in a switch or other electrical device inside the enclosure. Look to an industrial electrical supplier, not a residential-oriented one. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) ------------------------------------------------ at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom |
Thanks, all.
I'll check with an electrical supplier. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
Thanks, all.
I'll check with an electrical supplier. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
Any Home Depot or Lowes will have these, two to a bag under $ 2.00
At HD they are in the same aisle with the romex clamps and all emt/rigid fittings. m wrote... We call them cord grips at work. Pipe thread on one side, and a compression gasket arrangement on the other. Available in metal or plastic. Thomas&Betts and Hubbell are a couple of the brands we use. They provide strain relief and a water tight seal to cords coming in and out of electrical panels. |
Any Home Depot or Lowes will have these, two to a bag under $ 2.00
At HD they are in the same aisle with the romex clamps and all emt/rigid fittings. m wrote... We call them cord grips at work. Pipe thread on one side, and a compression gasket arrangement on the other. Available in metal or plastic. Thomas&Betts and Hubbell are a couple of the brands we use. They provide strain relief and a water tight seal to cords coming in and out of electrical panels. |
Look under the hood at the engine compartment bulkhead of junked automobiles.
You'll find all types of multi-conductor, water-proof, feed through connectrors, Ted in Atlanta Oscar wrote: here is a link for photo of a jbox you will never have to replace ! http://www.carlon.com/Brochures/2B10...ctionBoxes.pdf Available at any home depot in electrical dept. under $ 20 depending on the size you need. You can drill it to accept the weathertight strain relief that another poster recommended. regards. Roy wrote: For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
Look under the hood at the engine compartment bulkhead of junked automobiles.
You'll find all types of multi-conductor, water-proof, feed through connectrors, Ted in Atlanta Oscar wrote: here is a link for photo of a jbox you will never have to replace ! http://www.carlon.com/Brochures/2B10...ctionBoxes.pdf Available at any home depot in electrical dept. under $ 20 depending on the size you need. You can drill it to accept the weathertight strain relief that another poster recommended. regards. Roy wrote: For years I've had a relay box in the back yard to remotely switch among antennas. The plastic freezer boxes I used deteriorate in the sun and have to be replaced from time to time. Last time I was at the surplus store I picked up an ammo box which will be the new home for the relays. I plan on using N connectors for the RF due to their weatherproof construction. The problem is a connector for the relay control cable. I want a weatherproof bulkhead connector with at least 8 or 9 conductors, and I'd like the cable part to be weatherproof also. I don't want to use an in-line connector because of the problems of weatherproofing and strain relieving wires going through the box wall. There are a bunch of old military connectors that would be fine, but I need a set of complete ones, with back shell for the cable end, etc. I've been keeping an eye on eBay, but so far haven't spotted anything quite right. Does anyone know a source for a suitable connector set? Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
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