What is this Registered? Are you doing the "colour commentary" now, or did
I miss something here?


"Registered User" wrote in message
...
Attached is a 1600x600 image containing Brenda's before and after
images of the Belmont.

On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 21:16:23 +0900, "Brenda Ann"
wrote:

Well.... it's DONE!

Wasn't my wiring, per se, but it was something I hadn't yet bothered to
change. It was an extremely leaky C17. I couldn't believe it (though
obviously I should have just gone and replaced all the caps FIRST as a
matter of course.. but I'm the sort that loves the challenge of actually
troubleshooting a radio before shotgunning it.) I clipped it out of the
circuit, and the gain on the first audio stage came right up, all the
voltages are now within 5 volts of what they're supposed to be. I went
ahead
at that point and replaced all the rest of the paper caps, cleaned the
controls, replaced the destroyed mounting grommets on the tuner mechanism,
and replaced the burned out dial lights. The thing works like new. Even
the
squelch circuit works like it should. I'm a really happy camper (and my
friend who owns the radio will be even happier, since it's now up to snuff
after sitting in my basement for 3 years gathering rust and mold while I
looked and looked for a schematic under the wrong make....)

"Brenda Ann" wrote in message
...
It's (almost) back to original circuitry now. The 50K resistor you see
hanging off the chassis is connected to the cathode of the 1st. audio amp.
It doesn't belong there, but the radio will not play properly without it.
With it, the cathode voltage sits around 30 volts. Without it, it sits
around 70 volts, and the resulting grid bias cuts the tube off so far that
there's more signal at the grid than at the plate.

Any suggestions??

--
Say no to institutionalized interference.
Just say NO to HD/IBOC!

SAY, I recognize that Pace base unit :-)

Greg
w9gb