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#1
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I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of feet)
piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal "whip" antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance such a device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my "DX" setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of other broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source of all this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as I can. One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to the wire in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were going to try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to bring the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size (roughly) capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges, or does anyone here have any suggestions? TIA Cross-posted between sci.electronics.basics and rec.radio.shortwave Dave |
#2
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![]() Dave wrote: I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of feet) piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal "whip" antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance such a device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my "DX" setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of other broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source of all this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as I can. One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to the wire in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were going to try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to bring the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size (roughly) capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges, or does anyone here have any suggestions? What receiver? It sounds like it's being overloaded. |
#3
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![]() "N8KDV" wrote in message ... Dave wrote: I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of feet) piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal "whip" antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance such a device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my "DX" setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of other broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source of all this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as I can. One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to the wire in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were going to try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to bring the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size (roughly) capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges, or does anyone here have any suggestions? What receiver? It sounds like it's being overloaded. Sorry, forgot to include that information. I am using a DX-402 (aka Sangean ATS-505). I honestly wondered about that, but hesitated to shorten the wire because I would (obvioiusly) lose some sensitivity, and really like being able to pick up VOK's English broadcasts to Central America. Only problem is the noise that makes it difficult to single out. Thanks, Dave |
#4
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Is it ALL frequencies that have the " overload" or just a few??
- try Unclipping the antenna wire & moving it 1/4 inch away from the antenna ( use a string to move it around) & see if that helps.. Dan In article , "Dave" writes: Subject: Shortwave random-wire antenna question From: "Dave" Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 13:41:21 -0600 I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of feet) piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal "whip" antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance such a device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my "DX" setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of other broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source of all this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as I can. One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to the wire in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were going to try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to bring the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size (roughly) capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges, or does anyone here have any suggestions? TIA Cross-posted between sci.electronics.basics and rec.radio.shortwave Dave |
#5
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"Dave" ) writes:
I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of feet) piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal "whip" antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance such a device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my "DX" setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of other broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source of all this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as I can. One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to the wire in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were going to try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to bring the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size (roughly) capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges, or does anyone here have any suggestions? TIA Cross-posted between sci.electronics.basics and rec.radio.shortwave Dave It's probably designed for use with the whip, note the absence of an antenna jack. It needs to be sensitive because it's using that small whip, and when you add something longer, it overloads. In other words, it's not one single signal, but all the strong local signals, that are overloading it. TV and AM and FM broadcast stations can put out pretty strong signals locally, and they can get around any filtering in the radio, and still be strong, and then overload the active stages in the receiver. Michael |
#6
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Do you have some filtering built in to your radio? Some of the better rigs
have noise blanking, AGC, extra RF amplification (which can be bypassed), frequency shift/width, etc. |
#7
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"Dave" wrote in message If I were going to
try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to bring the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size (roughly) capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges, or does anyone here have any suggestions? Bring it down? You mean bring it up. It's resonant about 6 mhz or so. To tune it for 30 mhz, you would need to cut about 28 ft or so off of it. If you are severely overloading, cutting off a few ft would be a good place to start anyway.. You probably can't handle more than 5-10 ft by the sound of it... MK TIA Cross-posted between sci.electronics.basics and rec.radio.shortwave Not no mo... I dumped s.e.b. ...MK |
#8
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In article ,
"Dave" wrote: I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of feet) piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal "whip" antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance such a device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my "DX" setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of other broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source of all this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as I can. One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to the wire in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were going to try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to bring the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size (roughly) capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges, or does anyone here have any suggestions? Since you have cross posted to sci.electronics.basics lets try to look at this logically and as non technically as possible. The are two things that you need to accomplish to hear a station on your radio in the way of signal strength. 1. The signal must large enough for the radio to amplify it and reproduce it at the speaker. 2. The signal must be stronger than the noise floor of the radio and any external noise the antenna picks up by some margin over the station you want to hear. Usually this is something like 10 dB. You can't do anything about the noise floor of the radio unless you want to modify it. The basic sensitivity of the radio is a decision you made when you bought it. That leaves the antenna. What you did was to put up the most basic type, which is called a Marconi or common mode antenna. For a simple antenna it is about as non-selective as you can make hence the noise level is high on the radio. Worse you might be over loading the radio and the radio itself may be generating some of the noise. Portables are designed to be sensitive and simple so they can't handle much signal. A strong signal out or in band could be causing you additional trouble. Whether 36 feet of wire is to much or not depends on where you live but for most radios generally won't cause the overload problem it's just that it is picking up everything well including lots of locally generated noise. That is the basically where you are at. What can you do about this. You want to pick up more of the signals (stations) you want to hear without hearing noise from other electrical appliances or stuff out of band. You need a more complex antenna design that will not pick up as much noise as the signal you want to hear. Noise is on all frequencies and comes from all directions. A more complex antenna design can do things like: 1. Limit the direction it picks up signal or noise. You can benefit from this by pointing the antenna at the signal you want or conversely attenuating a noise source. 2. Changing the type of energy the antenna picks up. The antenna type determines whether it picks up common mode or differential mode. 3. The antenna type also determines whether it is sensitive to the electric, magnetic fields or both. 4. The antenna type also determines the band or bands of frequencies it will pick up well. All the above will limit the total amount of noise energy it will present to the radio so it has less to deal with. Basically you use the antenna design to preselect the signals you want to pick up. The downside of this is short wave covers a wide range of frequencies so you will need more than one antenna. For some type of resonant antenna the smallest number of antennas you need are two and better would be three. To get started with a more complex antenna and to see if you are really improving your reception start with a weak signal using just the radios whip antenna. Use a station on a high band (smaller antenna) during the daytime. Make a simple resonant antenna like a dipole cut for that frequency connected to a coax and determine how to connect the coax to your radio. If it is a portable radio try operating on the batteries as some of the wall wart power supplies are noisy or noise on the house wiring is being conducted to your radio through the power cord. Now to test the antenna to see if it really helping you can disconnect it from the radio and extend the radios whip antenna and collapse it again reconnecting the external antenna to see which works the best. You can put the external antenna outside away from noise generating electrical equipment or switch them off. Once you have a dipole making an improvement on weak signals you can make other antenna types and antennas for other frequencies. There are plenty of antenna sites on the web and ideas on finding local noise sources. -- Telamon Ventura, California |
#9
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#10
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Howard wrote:
Here's an idea: Instead of alligator clipping the wire to the antenna, loosely wrap about 6 - 8 turns of the wire around the whip so it inductively couples to the antenna. If the radio is indeed overloading this could solve the problem; not as much signal is transferred to the whip as with a direct connection. I've done this with portables and have had success, your mileage may vary. HK Good idea. You can adjust the number of turns of the coil which are over the whip by slowly moving it up or down to see how much signal the radio can handle. Do this with the whip fully down. The coil must have insulation on the wire. One of the symptoms of overloading is hearing many strong stations *outside* the international bands where they don't belong. Tune to a frequency range that is not an international band and see if you can still hear those stations. -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
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