Lucky wrote:


By the way, do these fuse holders have a polarity where they need to be
soldered in line properly?
No of course not since you can put the fuse in the holder in either way or
direction. Just figured I ask. I mean if you're not 100% sure but are 99
9/10% sure, why not close the gap on that 1/10th and ask eh?

Lucky

Not that it matters much, but I generally put the longer side of the fuse holder
on the side that goes to the power supply because you're less likely to have the
contact for the fuse touch something it shouldn't when it's unhooked for
changing.

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:


By the way, do these fuse holders have a polarity where they need to be
soldered in line properly?
No of course not since you can put the fuse in the holder in either way
or
direction. Just figured I ask. I mean if you're not 100% sure but are 99
9/10% sure, why not close the gap on that 1/10th and ask eh?

Lucky

Not that it matters much, but I generally put the longer side of the fuse
holder
on the side that goes to the power supply because you're less likely to
have the
contact for the fuse touch something it shouldn't when it's unhooked for
changing.

Hiya Mark

Yes good thinking. I can see something like that happening after moving,
pulling or repositioning the cables. In fact,I'm going to put a tiny piece
of tape around the holder to seal it.

BTW, should the fuse be as close to the radio or PSU? I was going to put it
close to the PSU since that's where all the dangerous current can originate
from.

1] But now I'm of the understanding I'm really protecting the PSU and it's
environment with this added fuse more then protecting the radio itself,
correct?

2] So if it's the radio that may cause the current failure drain, then the
fuse should be closer to the radio then the PSU correct?

I decided to do all this to protect the radio from the PSU since I'm not
100% sure the PSU doesn't have any defects from perhaps lets say a fall. The
PSU could work perfectly but have a solder joint ready to break.

But I would have done this **anyway. This is my first experience with such a
powerfull power supply that can totally fry
any electrical component conected to it. It kinda intimidates me a little
compared to all the small low powered wall worts I'm used to

I have always put a failsafe in place in most aspects of my life. If I can
fit a level of added security in case the major one fails I'll do it.

Remember it's always better to be SAFE then SORRY.

Always happy to hear from you
Lucky

Lucky wrote:

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:


By the way, do these fuse holders have a polarity where they need to be
soldered in line properly?
No of course not since you can put the fuse in the holder in either way
or
direction. Just figured I ask. I mean if you're not 100% sure but are 99
9/10% sure, why not close the gap on that 1/10th and ask eh?

Lucky

Not that it matters much, but I generally put the longer side of the fuse
holder
on the side that goes to the power supply because you're less likely to
have the
contact for the fuse touch something it shouldn't when it's unhooked for
changing.

Hiya Mark

Yes good thinking. I can see something like that happening after moving,
pulling or repositioning the cables. In fact,I'm going to put a tiny piece
of tape around the holder to seal it.

BTW, should the fuse be as close to the radio or PSU? I was going to put it
close to the PSU since that's where all the dangerous current can originate
from.


That's what I'd do.

1] But now I'm of the understanding I'm really protecting the PSU and it's
environment with this added fuse more then protecting the radio itself,
correct?


Well, if you got a big voltage spike, the fuse might blow before the radio, but
odds are the radio will blow to protect the fuse.

2] So if it's the radio that may cause the current failure drain, then the
fuse should be closer to the radio then the PSU correct?


No. If for example the wires between the PS and the radio got shorted between
the PS and the fuse, the fuse won't blow, and the wires will get nice and hot.

I decided to do all this to protect the radio from the PSU since I'm not
100% sure the PSU doesn't have any defects from perhaps lets say a fall. The
PSU could work perfectly but have a solder joint ready to break.

But I would have done this **anyway. This is my first experience with such a
powerfull power supply that can totally fry
any electrical component conected to it. It kinda intimidates me a little
compared to all the small low powered wall worts I'm used to

I have always put a failsafe in place in most aspects of my life. If I can
fit a level of added security in case the major one fails I'll do it.

Remember it's always better to be SAFE then SORRY.

Always happy to hear from you
Lucky

If you want to protect the radio, your best bet is probably to add some surge
protection - a 15v MOV hooked up on the radio side of the fuse might help blow
the fuse before the radio gets fried.

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:


By the way, do these fuse holders have a polarity where they need to
be
soldered in line properly?
No of course not since you can put the fuse in the holder in either
way
or
direction. Just figured I ask. I mean if you're not 100% sure but are
99
9/10% sure, why not close the gap on that 1/10th and ask eh?

Lucky

Not that it matters much, but I generally put the longer side of the
fuse
holder
on the side that goes to the power supply because you're less likely to
have the
contact for the fuse touch something it shouldn't when it's unhooked
for
changing.

Hiya Mark

Yes good thinking. I can see something like that happening after moving,
pulling or repositioning the cables. In fact,I'm going to put a tiny
piece
of tape around the holder to seal it.

BTW, should the fuse be as close to the radio or PSU? I was going to put
it
close to the PSU since that's where all the dangerous current can
originate
from.


That's what I'd do.

1] But now I'm of the understanding I'm really protecting the PSU and
it's
environment with this added fuse more then protecting the radio itself,
correct?


Well, if you got a big voltage spike, the fuse might blow before the
radio, but
odds are the radio will blow to protect the fuse.

2] So if it's the radio that may cause the current failure drain, then
the
fuse should be closer to the radio then the PSU correct?


No. If for example the wires between the PS and the radio got shorted
between
the PS and the fuse, the fuse won't blow, and the wires will get nice and
hot.

I decided to do all this to protect the radio from the PSU since I'm not
100% sure the PSU doesn't have any defects from perhaps lets say a fall.
The
PSU could work perfectly but have a solder joint ready to break.

But I would have done this **anyway. This is my first experience with
such a
powerfull power supply that can totally fry
any electrical component conected to it. It kinda intimidates me a little
compared to all the small low powered wall worts I'm used to

I have always put a failsafe in place in most aspects of my life. If I
can
fit a level of added security in case the major one fails I'll do it.

Remember it's always better to be SAFE then SORRY.

Always happy to hear from you
Lucky

If you want to protect the radio, your best bet is probably to add some
surge
protection - a 15v MOV hooked up on the radio side of the fuse might help
blow
the fuse before the radio gets fried.

OK Mark,

This MOV [metal oxide varistor}, is it a component I can buy from Radio
Shack and solder in line, or is it an actual physical strip that you plug
the PSU into like a regualr surge protector?

So pick up a 15v MOV and solder it in line before the fuse closer to the
radio and the fuse holder itself closest to the PSU? Right? Wow this is
great help and advise.

Thanks a lot
Lucky

Lucky wrote:

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:


By the way, do these fuse holders have a polarity where they need to
be
soldered in line properly?
No of course not since you can put the fuse in the holder in either
way
or
direction. Just figured I ask. I mean if you're not 100% sure but are
99
9/10% sure, why not close the gap on that 1/10th and ask eh?

Lucky

Not that it matters much, but I generally put the longer side of the
fuse
holder
on the side that goes to the power supply because you're less likely to
have the
contact for the fuse touch something it shouldn't when it's unhooked
for
changing.

Hiya Mark

Yes good thinking. I can see something like that happening after moving,
pulling or repositioning the cables. In fact,I'm going to put a tiny
piece
of tape around the holder to seal it.

BTW, should the fuse be as close to the radio or PSU? I was going to put
it
close to the PSU since that's where all the dangerous current can
originate
from.


That's what I'd do.

1] But now I'm of the understanding I'm really protecting the PSU and
it's
environment with this added fuse more then protecting the radio itself,
correct?


Well, if you got a big voltage spike, the fuse might blow before the
radio, but
odds are the radio will blow to protect the fuse.

2] So if it's the radio that may cause the current failure drain, then
the
fuse should be closer to the radio then the PSU correct?


No. If for example the wires between the PS and the radio got shorted
between
the PS and the fuse, the fuse won't blow, and the wires will get nice and
hot.

I decided to do all this to protect the radio from the PSU since I'm not
100% sure the PSU doesn't have any defects from perhaps lets say a fall.
The
PSU could work perfectly but have a solder joint ready to break.

But I would have done this **anyway. This is my first experience with
such a
powerfull power supply that can totally fry
any electrical component conected to it. It kinda intimidates me a little
compared to all the small low powered wall worts I'm used to

I have always put a failsafe in place in most aspects of my life. If I
can
fit a level of added security in case the major one fails I'll do it.

Remember it's always better to be SAFE then SORRY.

Always happy to hear from you
Lucky

If you want to protect the radio, your best bet is probably to add some
surge
protection - a 15v MOV hooked up on the radio side of the fuse might help
blow
the fuse before the radio gets fried.

OK Mark,

This MOV [metal oxide varistor}, is it a component I can buy from Radio
Shack and solder in line, or is it an actual physical strip that you plug
the PSU into like a regualr surge protector?

So pick up a 15v MOV and solder it in line before the fuse closer to the
radio and the fuse holder itself closest to the PSU? Right? Wow this is
great help and advise.

Thanks a lot
Lucky

I doubt you'll find a 15v MOV at radio shack unless it's in a special order
catalog.

It would get hooked in after the fuse, and before the radio. The hope is the
current draw from the MOV clamping down on the voltage spike will help blow the
fuse before your radio gets fried.

I don't think this will protect your radio from a serious spike, but you're not
likely to spend more than a few bucks for a mov, so what the heck.

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:

"Mark S. Holden" wrote in message
...
Lucky wrote:


By the way, do these fuse holders have a polarity where they need
to
be
soldered in line properly?
No of course not since you can put the fuse in the holder in either
way
or
direction. Just figured I ask. I mean if you're not 100% sure but
are
99
9/10% sure, why not close the gap on that 1/10th and ask eh?

Lucky

Not that it matters much, but I generally put the longer side of the
fuse
holder
on the side that goes to the power supply because you're less likely
to
have the
contact for the fuse touch something it shouldn't when it's unhooked
for
changing.

Hiya Mark

Yes good thinking. I can see something like that happening after
moving,
pulling or repositioning the cables. In fact,I'm going to put a tiny
piece
of tape around the holder to seal it.

BTW, should the fuse be as close to the radio or PSU? I was going to
put
it
close to the PSU since that's where all the dangerous current can
originate
from.


That's what I'd do.

1] But now I'm of the understanding I'm really protecting the PSU and
it's
environment with this added fuse more then protecting the radio
itself,
correct?


Well, if you got a big voltage spike, the fuse might blow before the
radio, but
odds are the radio will blow to protect the fuse.

2] So if it's the radio that may cause the current failure drain, then
the
fuse should be closer to the radio then the PSU correct?


No. If for example the wires between the PS and the radio got shorted
between
the PS and the fuse, the fuse won't blow, and the wires will get nice
and
hot.

I decided to do all this to protect the radio from the PSU since I'm
not
100% sure the PSU doesn't have any defects from perhaps lets say a
fall.
The
PSU could work perfectly but have a solder joint ready to break.

But I would have done this **anyway. This is my first experience with
such a
powerfull power supply that can totally fry
any electrical component conected to it. It kinda intimidates me a
little
compared to all the small low powered wall worts I'm used to

I have always put a failsafe in place in most aspects of my life. If I
can
fit a level of added security in case the major one fails I'll do it.

Remember it's always better to be SAFE then SORRY.

Always happy to hear from you
Lucky

If you want to protect the radio, your best bet is probably to add some
surge
protection - a 15v MOV hooked up on the radio side of the fuse might
help
blow
the fuse before the radio gets fried.

OK Mark,

This MOV [metal oxide varistor}, is it a component I can buy from Radio
Shack and solder in line, or is it an actual physical strip that you plug
the PSU into like a regualr surge protector?

So pick up a 15v MOV and solder it in line before the fuse closer to the
radio and the fuse holder itself closest to the PSU? Right? Wow this is
great help and advise.

Thanks a lot
Lucky

I doubt you'll find a 15v MOV at radio shack unless it's in a special
order
catalog.

It would get hooked in after the fuse, and before the radio. The hope is
the
current draw from the MOV clamping down on the voltage spike will help
blow the
fuse before your radio gets fried.

I don't think this will protect your radio from a serious spike, but
you're not
likely to spend more than a few bucks for a mov, so what the heck.

Mark,

Ratso Shackups only shows 1 MOV. Here is the product and 2nd link is the
specs.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=276-568

specs:
http://support.radioshack.com/suppor...oc38/38010.htm

Lucky

Lucky wrote:

Mark,

Ratso Shackups only shows 1 MOV. Here is the product and 2nd link is the
specs.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=276-568

specs:
http://support.radioshack.com/suppor...oc38/38010.htm

Lucky

That MOV is intended for use with 120vac. It won't do anything unless it sees
at least 184 volts.

With that MOV on the 13.8v line, if the fuse blows because of too much voltage,
odds are there will be too much smoke pouring out of your radio to find the fuse
holder so you can change it.

You want one rated to start triggering just a little beyond what your 13.8v
power supply should put out.

I think one rated for 15v is probably optimum, and I don't think I'd bother with
anything designed to trigger above 17v.