Well be it right or wrong here is what I did.

Installed an Al pop rivet in the tubing,

Soldered the tubing in place with some stuff called Alloy 5. I got it a
couple of years ago to fix a radiator, worked good but forgot I had it

Tapped the rivet for a #6 screw and applied a little Noalox I got from work

Weather proofed it with vynil and rubber stretch tape.

We will see How t does.
"Jimmy" wrote in message
. com...
Whats the best way to attach a solder lug to aluminum tubing. I dont want
ot
pop-rivet it on because that is too hard to get off and sheet metal screwa
always come loose. I was thinking about putting in a pop rivet then drill
and tap the rivet.

Dave Platt wrote:

In article ,
kf4tun wrote:

Where does one buy aluminum solder?

See http://www.rcfaq.com/answers/engines/solderalum.htm for some
suggestions. It's definitely available.

I've even heard people report that they've been able to solder
reliably to aluminum using a combination of ordinary 64/40 solder,
activated rosin flux, and a bit of trickery involving a dentist's
pick. The trick is this: flux the joint well, heat thoroughly, apply
some solder (it'll bead up and won't stick). Then, take the dentist's
pick, and while continuing to heat the solder and junction, scrape the
pick _through_ the bead of molten solder and scratch the surface of
the aluminum underneath (naturally, the pick has to be hot enough that
it doesn't cause the solder to congeal).

The scratching action breaks up the layer of oxide on the surface of
the aluminum. If the molten solder is lying right on the metal, it
(and the remnants of the flux) will exclude oxygen long enough to
allow the solder to fuse with the aluminum.


Tin a file and use that to do the scratching. Works for bigger
stuff. Makes a better contact. Seal the joint from the weather
or you may get bad electrolytic corrosion at the joint.

vy 73

Andy, M3ABC