Hi,

I just got a used Butternut HF6V in great shape for a great price. What
type of anti-sieze do I need to put between the sections of aluminum tubing ???
Is automotive anti-sieze OK ??? I don't think that it is electrically
conductive. Do I need something like electricians use when they connect the
aluminum service entrance cable to the breaker box ??? I think that stuff is
called Penetrox. Is something like that available at Home Depot ???


RON....KA2IIA
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.

I used GB ox-gard on my HF6V. Got it at Home Depot in a tube. Works great &
it isn't expensive. You will find it in the electrical department.
"Ron Goldstein--KA2IIA" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I just got a used Butternut HF6V in great shape for a great price.
What
type of anti-sieze do I need to put between the sections of aluminum
tubing ???
Is automotive anti-sieze OK ??? I don't think that it is electrically
conductive. Do I need something like electricians use when they connect
the
aluminum service entrance cable to the breaker box ??? I think that
stuff is
called Penetrox. Is something like that available at Home Depot ???


RON....KA2IIA
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.

Antiseize for nuts from the auto store works fine..

denny

Couple other names Ideal Noalox (about $5 at home
depot) and , found at a swap meet - Jet-Lube SS-30
copper high temp (cost unknown, got MOST of container
for $ 2.00!) Also, several antenna companies sell
their own versions, relatively CHEAP! Jim

Ron Goldstein--KA2IIA wrote:
Hi,

I just got a used Butternut HF6V in great shape for a great price. What
type of anti-sieze do I need to put between the sections of aluminum tubing ???
Is automotive anti-sieze OK ??? I don't think that it is electrically
conductive. Do I need something like electricians use when they connect the
aluminum service entrance cable to the breaker box ??? I think that stuff is
called Penetrox. Is something like that available at Home Depot ???


RON....KA2IIA
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.

I just got a used Butternut HF6V in great shape for a great price.
What
type of anti-sieze do I need to put between the sections of aluminum
tubing ???
Is automotive anti-sieze OK ??? I don't think that it is electrically
conductive. Do I need something like electricians use when they connect
the
aluminum service entrance cable to the breaker box ??? I think that
stuff is
called Penetrox. Is something like that available at Home Depot ???

Piggy-backing off this thread, please: When I was an EMI technician some
years ago, we used conductive anti-seize on (most) hardware that was in a
conductive path, such as grounding straps. I was surprised to discover that
some/most anti-seize is non-conductive; you can daub some kinds on the
benchtop and stick ohmmeter probes in it -- nothing happens. I figured with
its metal content, surely it would all be conductive, but not so.

I have no idea what implications this has for the OP's Butternut and would
welcome comments.

On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 21:03:25 -0700, "Sal M. Onella"
wrote:



I just got a used Butternut HF6V in great shape for a great price.
What
type of anti-sieze do I need to put between the sections of aluminum
tubing ???
Is automotive anti-sieze OK ??? I don't think that it is electrically
conductive. Do I need something like electricians use when they connect
the
aluminum service entrance cable to the breaker box ??? I think that
stuff is
called Penetrox. Is something like that available at Home Depot ???

Piggy-backing off this thread, please: When I was an EMI technician some
years ago, we used conductive anti-seize on (most) hardware that was in a
conductive path, such as grounding straps. I was surprised to discover that
some/most anti-seize is non-conductive; you can daub some kinds on the
benchtop and stick ohmmeter probes in it -- nothing happens. I figured with
its metal content, surely it would all be conductive, but not so.

I have no idea what implications this has for the OP's Butternut and would
welcome comments.


You raise the difference between improve conductivity of a connection
and anti-seize compounds.

What the other person probably needs is not (as he asked) anti-seize,
but conduction enhancing / protective paste, which is usually
something link zinc or aluminium dust in a silicon grease carrier (for
aluminium). The particles help to create a current path between the
parts under pressure, and the silicon grease helps to prevent water
getting in forming an electrolytic action and consequent corrosion.

I don't think your ohmmeter test is a good one (ie sticking probes in
a puddle of stuff). The particles work by being crushed into the
adjacent surfaces under the pressure of the mechanical connection.

In the absence of stuff made for the specific metals, I find that
marine grade grease (withstands elements better than chassis grease)
or silicon grease (expensive) applied to cleaned parts (most
important) is often adequate, and usually better than nothing.

A stainless steel brush is handy for cleaning joint parts, some
scotchbrite pads are useful, but they embed in soft materials, and
ordinary steel wool is the worst for embedding.

Owen
--

We are mixing multiple topics here...

First, the OP asked about preventing mechanical seizure between two
aluminum tubes... For this I prefer a molybdenum antiseize from the
auto store, or similar... I had a System One beam in the air in
Michigan for 25 years... The joints were lubed with the moly and then
the assembled joint was taped with 3M - #33 tape and the ends of the
tubes were plugged... When I sold the house and the beam came down the
tape was still on, though starting to crumble, and the tubing only need
a firm twist to slide the joints apart... The mating surfaces were
clean and still had a shine.. There was an invisible film of the moly
antiseize staining my hands and clothing after a quarter century...

Second, is the issue of blocking electrolysis between disimilar metals,
eg. copper and aluminum... For this I would use the appropriate paste,
NoAlOx is one brand... For copper to copper there is a different paste
used..

Third is the issue of slow oxidation of aluminum which causes a high
resistance joint - and possible mechanical seizure... In areas more
prone to oxidation then I might prefer NoAlOx, or similar over the moly
based antiseize for bolts... In Arizona aoxidation is a non issue... In
Tampa oxidation is the only issue...

The last topic is increasing electrical resistance of the joint when
the surface oxidizes... What the antioxidation paste has is zinc
particles in suspension that when clamped between the two metal
surfaces actually pierces the film of oxidation mechanically and
creates a lower resistance path for current flow...

denny / k8do