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#11
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![]() "Dloyd Lavies" wrote in message ps.com... On Nov 3, 5:54 pm, "John Doe" wrote: If you can't contribute anything positive to this question, then stay out of it, with your trash! I have a 10m base loaded mag mount antenna, that I had to put a piece of felt over the magnet as not to scratch a new vehicle. You are wasting your time trying to protect the paint when using a magnetic mount. Grit will find its way under your magnet, and within a year of normal driving, you will have scratched paint. Take a deep breath, get out the hole saw or metal punch, and punch a hole in your new car. Your radio will be happier and so will you as the paint around your antenna will not be subjected to the inevitable damage caused by magnet mounts. BTW, before anyone says anything about lowering the value of the vehicle, I've sold and traded-in multiple vehicles with holes punched in them, and not once has anyone ever said a word about the holes. When I trade it in, I just put in a rubber plug and no one notices. When I did this I apparently changed the capacitance between the mag mount and the roof of the vehicle. Someone suggested that I might want to replace the felt with either a large balloon or a large prophylactic as it is thinner and the capacitance would then return to almost where it should be. Positive comments only! However, if you have committed yourself to using a magnetic mount, I would suggest using ultra thin vinyl sheeting, this should give you enough grip to keep it on the vehicle. Nevertheless, anything that you use is going to require that you retune the antenna, a longer whip may be also be required because of the decreased capacitance. 73, Dloyd I've been down that road, too. The mag mount is OK for short term use, say for a day or so but it is not a good idea to leave one on the vehicle for any length of time. As Dloyd pointed out, grit WILL find a way to get under the mount and it WILL damage the paint. I learned the hard way that moisture will also linger under the mount and the paint will be further damaged. Then, too, is the possibility of the antenna striking branches, door tops and other low-hanging obstacles and when the magnet slides across the roof, guess what? You got it! More damage to the paint. At VHF/UHF frequencies you will not see enough of a change in the standing wave to be concerned with if you use a buffer between the magnet and the body. It will be miniscule. Dloyd is correct again when he advises you to do it the right way. Drill a hole. Mount the antenna and have fun. Oh, as an addendum? I once had a magnetic mount antenna stolen from my car. It was a 2 meter quarter wave whip but that didn't phase the CBer who cut the coax and stole it. And before you jump on me and ask how I know it was a CBer, read on. I had engraved part of my soc number on the underside of the antenna. I just happened to visit a local CB shop one afternoon and saw my antenna on a shelf and the owner of the shop told me it was for sale for five dollars. Without going into further detail, I arranged for a local detective to visit the shop and buy the antenna, whereupon the owner of the shop was promptly arrested for selling stolen property. The icing on the cake, so to speak, was when the detective discovered that the owner also had several stolen CB radios for sale as well. The CBer who stole the antenna was also caught and charged. 73! name and call withheld |
#12
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Hash: SHA1 Not Dloyd wrote: I've been down that road, too. The mag mount is OK for short term use, say for a day or so but it is not a good idea to leave one on the vehicle for any length of time. I don't see what the big deal is. I have a mag mount on my car and haven't noticed any scratches. It doesn't move at all. It is a 2 meter antenna, and the magnet is very strong. Do other mag mounts typically have week magnets? -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.6 (GNU/Linux) iD8DBQFHLUV1QuDJiZ/QrH0RAuDiAJ9st7Dbb0vbUWsZTEPgouvtIuHM3wCfRE0j PuFFEpw7djeBuAAHr0IANJs= =VgJ5 -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- |
#13
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Stefan Wolfe wrote:
I think that when considering plastic and mica type materials for high capacitance values, component engineers do not necessarily look at dielectric constant as the most important property. Mylar, mica and polyethylene are common capacitor materials and have rather low dielctic constants just a little higher than teflon. What makes them most attractive is their ability to be manufactured in very thin sheets (increased C) and their high dielectric strengths (increased V ratings). Teflon is higher cost but is very good for high voltage ratings due to superior dielectric strength. Aluminum and tantalum oxides tend to have very high dielectric constants due to the capability of these metal oxide molecules to store electrons. What is more desirable however is their property of being very thin. What makes them a problem is their relatively low dielectric strengths thus their low voltage ratings. Actually, there are a lot more considerations yet. Some plastics are self-healing, so a momentary arc won't permanently destroy the capacitor. And some have exceptionally low leakage current. Various materials also have widely different temperature coefficients. In general, the very high k (dielectric constant) ceramics have higher temperature coefficients than lower k materials. Some ceramics, like the very high k ceramics used for Z5U and similar capacitors, are also hygroscopic, microphonic, piezoelectric, and their k varies with frequency and voltage. Many capacitors, depending largely on the dielectric, also have nonlinear properties such as "soak" (dielectric absorption) and "hook". Loss, expressed as loss tangent, ESR, or power factor, is also often an important consideration, and it can be very different for different dielectrics. Choosing the right capacitor for a particular job can be pretty demanding. This one, fortunately, is easier than some. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
#14
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![]() "Cecil Moore" wrote in message et... John Doe wrote: Positive comments only! I use aluminum foil. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com At least one dualband magmount, no longer offered by MFJ, came with an aluminum foil bottom. I have used several of them and seen no adverse effect on the paint -- and I whiz along at highway speeds a lot. |
#15
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In message om, Dloyd
Lavies writes On Nov 3, 5:54 pm, "John Doe" wrote: If you can't contribute anything positive to this question, then stay out of it, with your trash! I have a 10m base loaded mag mount antenna, that I had to put a piece of felt over the magnet as not to scratch a new vehicle. You are wasting your time trying to protect the paint when using a magnetic mount. Grit will find its way under your magnet, and within a year of normal driving, you will have scratched paint. I used a 7" magmount for a 5/8 WL on 2m. It had a rubber boot. I used it most days to and from work, which involved putting it on and taking it off twice each day. And then there was other use. Each time, before I put it on, I wiped the mounting spot (in the centre of the roof) with a soft rag (with maybe a bit of spit if nobody was looking). Four years later, when I got rid of the car, the mounting spot was extremely highly polished, which (being a company car) is more than you could say for the rest it. -- Ian |
#16
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John
Nobody seems to have mentioned these... - Tune the antenna length to allow for the change in capacitance? - Increase the diameter of the magnet to increase the capacitance... Cheers Bob John Doe wrote: I have a 10m base loaded mag mount antenna, that I had to put a piece of felt over the magnet as not to scratch a new vehicle. |
#17
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![]() "John Doe" wrote in message ... If you can't contribute anything positive to this question, then stay out of it, with your trash! I have a 10m base loaded mag mount antenna, that I had to put a piece of felt over the magnet as not to scratch a new vehicle. When I did this I apparently changed the capacitance between the mag mount and the roof of the vehicle. Someone suggested that I might want to replace the felt with either a large balloon or a large prophylactic as it is thinner and the capacitance would then return to almost where it should be. Positive comments only! Maybe black, electrical tape on the bottom of the mag mount (applied to that mag mount, of course.) Would be thinner, but I suspect it might still cause some problems with increased capacitance. Count paint that mag mount base with liquid electrical tape, which I get at my local ACE Hardware store. But then, you could still get some grit underneath the mount. Saran Wrap? Very thin. Might be your best bet. Tough and flexible. Maybe that would help... Good luck. Dave |
#18
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On Nov 4, 4:00 am, Ian Jackson
wrote: In message om, Dloyd Lavies writes On Nov 3, 5:54 pm, "John Doe" wrote: If you can't contribute anything positive to this question, then stay out of it, with your trash! I have a 10m base loaded mag mount antenna, that I had to put a piece of felt over the magnet as not to scratch a new vehicle. You are wasting your time trying to protect the paint when using a magnetic mount. Grit will find its way under your magnet, and within a year of normal driving, you will have scratched paint. I used a 7" magmount for a 5/8 WL on 2m. It had a rubber boot. I used it most days to and from work, which involved putting it on and taking it off twice each day. And then there was other use. Each time, before I put it on, I wiped the mounting spot (in the centre of the roof) with a soft rag (with maybe a bit of spit if nobody was looking). Four years later, when I got rid of the car, the mounting spot was extremely highly polished, which (being a company car) is more than you could say for the rest it. -- Ian Interesting Ian, I suppose the fact that you removed the antenna twice a day and wiped the spot made a substantial difference. In my experience, I did not remove the antenna daily, but as a lot of amateurs, I used the magnet mount in lieu of punching a hole. After a year, the paint had terrible scratches where the magnet had been placed. Nevertheless, this still does not solve John's problem with the detuning he is experincing when using a rubber boot or other protective device. What John does not say, and I would like to know, is why he is unable to retune the antenna to compensate for the change in capacitance. Will the antenna not resonate? or is there some physical limitation, such as the radiating element being too short, ect. 73 Dloyd |
#19
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Ian Jackson wrote:
I used a 7" magmount for a 5/8 WL on 2m. It had a rubber boot. My Larsen mag mount came with a thin sheet of aluminum across the bottom. After much use, the aluminum started to tear. I replaced the factory aluminum with ordinary aluminum foil taped to the base. It's not as sturdy as the original but it costs virtually nothing to replace. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
#20
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On Nov 3, 5:54 pm, "John Doe" wrote:
If you can't contribute anything positive to this question, then stay out of it, with your trash! I have a 10m base loaded mag mount antenna, that I had to put a piece of felt over the magnet as not to scratch a new vehicle. When I did this I apparently changed the capacitance between the mag mount and the roof of the vehicle. Someone suggested that I might want to replace the felt with either a large balloon or a large prophylactic as it is thinner and the capacitance would then return to almost where it should be. Positive comments only! Consider drilling an NMO mount and get the Larsen whip for 27-30 MHz. |
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