All it says about the diodes is that they are either D5, D7, D9 etc. It
doesn't say what they are.

Yes, it doesn't say but if it were me, I would replace the
blown diodes with 1N4148's (assuming discrete diodes will
fit in the SMD pad space).

I wonder whether these diodes might not be MMBD4148 or some such?
These are 1N4148-type fast switching diodes in an 3-pin SOT323
surface-mount package.

Mouser and Digi-Key carry several variants of these. The MCC versions
are $.10-$.15 each in onesies and are good to 75V, 150 mA. The Diodes
INc. versions are around half a buck each in onesies, and are good to
75V, 200 mW. I'm not sure whether you'd want apples, or oranges :-)

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

In my SG-230, it says 5DL on the top of diode. Don't know if that is an ID:
code of sorts.

73 Andy


"Dave Platt" wrote in message
...
All it says about the diodes is that they are either D5, D7, D9 etc. It
doesn't say what they are.

Yes, it doesn't say but if it were me, I would replace the
blown diodes with 1N4148's (assuming discrete diodes will
fit in the SMD pad space).

I wonder whether these diodes might not be MMBD4148 or some such?
These are 1N4148-type fast switching diodes in an 3-pin SOT323
surface-mount package.

Mouser and Digi-Key carry several variants of these. The MCC versions
are $.10-$.15 each in onesies and are good to 75V, 150 mA. The Diodes
INc. versions are around half a buck each in onesies, and are good to
75V, 200 mW. I'm not sure whether you'd want apples, or oranges :-)

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

Andy wrote:
Yes, that is exactly the same manual as mine.
How would I connect the 1N4148 2-pin to the 3 pads that are under the SM
3-pin diodes, will this even work?

I'm pretty sure it would work if you get the pads right.
One is probably grounded. One is probably the cathode.
One is probably the anode. You should be able to figure
out which is which using a digital ohm-meter.
--
73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com

I found this just a few minutes ago, on a web site.
The diodes are in a small 3-leaded SM package. Looking down at the
package with it oriented so that the single lead is on top, the
cathode is the top tab and the anode is the left tab on the bottom.

It looks like the bottom right out of the two is not used.
Wonder if anyone can confirm the above?

73 Andy



"Cecil Moore" wrote in message
t...
Andy wrote:
Yes, that is exactly the same manual as mine.
How would I connect the 1N4148 2-pin to the 3 pads that are under the SM
3-pin diodes, will this even work?

I'm pretty sure it would work if you get the pads right.
One is probably grounded. One is probably the cathode.
One is probably the anode. You should be able to figure
out which is which using a digital ohm-meter.
--
73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com

In article ,
"Andy" wrote:

Hi Tad,

Joined that one. But I have not had much success yet.

73 Andy


"Tad Danley" wrote in message
news:cxaPj.11048$Zk5.1882@trnddc05...
Ed_G wrote:



I recommend you email your question to SGC. My recent experience
with them shows they are fairly good at replies to questions, although
you may have to wait a day or two for an answer.
http://www.sgcworld.com


Ed K7AAT


I agree. There is also a yahoo Group for Smartuners. It is not sponsored
by SGC but I have found it to be a good source of information.

Good luck and 73,

Tad, K3TD

did you try asking SGC to sell you just the part?

or at least confirm for you the part i bet any tech there would do that
much u cuould then buy them cheep anyplace


seems easiest route ? ii dunno

In my SG-230, it says 5DL on the top of diode. Don't know if that is an ID:
code of sorts.

Yes, that's an ID code.

According to one set of notes I've found, Fairchild use 5D as the code
for an MMBD914, which is a fast switching diode similar to the 4148,
in a 3-lead SOT-23 case. The MMBD4148 would have a 5H code. The two
parts look *very* similar on the data sheets, and from what I've seen
in practice they're interchangeable in most applications.

If this is what you've got, then the pinout is as follows: if you
look down from the top of the diode, with the two-leaded side on the
left and the one-leaded side on the right: pin 1 at the top left is
the diode's anode, pin 3 at the right center is the diode's cathode,
and pin 2 at the lower left is not connected to the diode.

The pinouts are the same for the MMBD914 and MMBD4148.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

In article ,
Andy wrote:

I found this just a few minutes ago, on a web site.
The diodes are in a small 3-leaded SM package. Looking down at the
package with it oriented so that the single lead is on top, the
cathode is the top tab and the anode is the left tab on the bottom.

It looks like the bottom right out of the two is not used.
Wonder if anyone can confirm the above?

That's consistent with what I see in the data sheets for the
surface-mount (SOT-23) switching diodes of type 914 and 4148.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

I have checked diodes D4, D5, D6, D8, D9 and D10 and all of them check out
OK.

All 5 LED's are lit and stay lit when I key and de-key the transceiver.
There is no clicking of the relays.



In the SGC Smartuner troubleshooting that can be found here
http://www.sgcworld.com/Publications...oubleshoot.pdf it says,



For newer SG-230's and other SGC antenna couplers:

1. If LEDs do not light, RF sense diodes and bypass capacitors are suspect.
Also

check Q1 (ZN2222) and CPU chip (68HC711).



2. If LEDs do light and coupler does not initiate tuning, check the CPU
chip. On rare

occasions, the mixer A1 may fail. Verify if you have clock signal on the
output of U3

(74HC393) chip. Verify DC voltage at U11, Pin 1 during transmit. Check R1
and if

no voltage is present, check all 4 sensing signal inputs to the CPU chip -
FWD, REV,

PHASE, IMPEDANCE. If you have an input signal, you should see the
appropriate

LED light. Also verify RF PWR signal is present.



How do I check the mixer A1 to find out if it's working?



What equipment would I need to check for a clock signal on the output of the
74HC393 chip?



What or where is U11 and how can I determine what one is pin 1?



R1 has voltage.



73 Andy





"Dave Platt" wrote in message
...
In my SG-230, it says 5DL on the top of diode. Don't know if that is an
ID:
code of sorts.

Yes, that's an ID code.

According to one set of notes I've found, Fairchild use 5D as the code
for an MMBD914, which is a fast switching diode similar to the 4148,
in a 3-lead SOT-23 case. The MMBD4148 would have a 5H code. The two
parts look *very* similar on the data sheets, and from what I've seen
in practice they're interchangeable in most applications.

If this is what you've got, then the pinout is as follows: if you
look down from the top of the diode, with the two-leaded side on the
left and the one-leaded side on the right: pin 1 at the top left is
the diode's anode, pin 3 at the right center is the diode's cathode,
and pin 2 at the lower left is not connected to the diode.

The pinouts are the same for the MMBD914 and MMBD4148.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

Andy wrote:
What equipment would I need to check for a clock signal on the output of the
74HC393 chip?

Unfortunately, you need an oscilloscope for troubleshooting
at that level.

What or where is U11 and how can I determine what one is pin 1?

Good question. I don't see U11 on the schematic.
--
73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com

2008ë…„ 4ì›” 22ì�¼ 화요ì�¼ 오ì*„ 5ì‹œ 46분 53ì´ˆ UTC+9, Andy 님ì�˜ ë§�:
Hi all

I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday
for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all
worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands.
I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset
with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the
13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they
all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF,
10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even
attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does
nothing.
There are five LED's inside that are all on (green).

Does anyone know what is causing this problem?

73 Andy
Hi,I am Yoon Soo Choi from HL2MXRSG230 has been repaired?I have the same breakdown symptoms,I need help,Thank you.