Firm believer in the Liquid Electricians Tape. Have covered connectors, wire
splices, connection points, all sorts of things with the stuff and have yet
to have a problem. Sets up nice, never seems to get brittle. Peel it off
years later and the connectors, wire, whatever are as shiny as the day it
went together.

Just my two cents worth.

Shoe Goo ... That stuff used for tennis shoe repairs... It seals like
silicone, except it cures all the way through, to the middle, so it's easier
to clean up if you have to take it off...

73,
Mike KI6PR
El Rancho R.F., CA

"R. Scott" wrote
I had been using the Stretch Seal stuff. But Im replacing all my coax
and noticed that the Feed for my Beam the seal was all cracked and had
come apart in places (especially the braid side. Ive a can of Liquid
tape and had thought of that.

So how do you guys seal your outside coax ?
--
Rick N7HJ
Everett, Washington
Remove THREAD to reply.

On Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:01:22 -0600, Bob Miller
wrote:

GE silicon Kitchen & Bath sealant from the hardware store.

You have to watch some of this stuff as certain brands contain
acetic(?) acid which corrodes copper.

I use a hot glue gun followed by copious layers of self amalgamatind
tape, followed by a couple of layers of standard PVC insulating tape
to prevent UV degradation of the self-amalalg.

Peter, G3PHO

R. Scott wrote:

So how do you guys seal your outside coax ?

Duct Seal from the Electrical Dept at Home Depot.

Art N2AH

On Wed, 17 Mar 2004 02:07:14 -0800, Bill Turner
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:44:47 -0000, "Dave" wrote:

and as others have probably pointed out stay away from the silicone rubber
caulks and glass sealants, those usually give off an acid while curing (the
vinegar smell) that can etch the connector, and they just don't stay very
well sealed when coated on a connector.

They really aren't a problem when used out in the open and they stay
very well sealed on connectors "if the connector was clean" when the
Silastic RTV (TM) was applied.

Now: OTOH *most* of the RTV family, regardless of who made it, depend
on moisture to cure. They are water proof, not moisture proof.

However the noncorrosive stuff has Alcohol in it. It doesn't smell
like Alcohol. It just stinks. There is never any doubt as to which
you have in hand.


_________________________________________________ ________

If you want to use the silicone seal type stuff, get some at a pet shop
that is rated for aquariums. The look and feel is identical to the

I built two rather large aquariums...many years back and used plain
old fashioned bath tub calk. Smells like vinegar, and is corrosive
when used in confined spaces.

Built the aquariums, let cure for two days, poured in water on the
third, looked for leaks, changed water and put in fish on the 4 th
day. Fish survived.


vinegar-smelling stuff, but non corrosive. If it's safe for fish, it's
safe, period.

It's mostly all safe when not used in confined spaces.
At work we used the stuff for years, but then we picked up some
circuits that were to be used in a rather hostile environment. They
came potted with a RTV silicone. In about 6 weeks the first failed.
With only two exceptions they all failed within the next two weeks.

When I took the first one apart I suggested we might want to get some
replacements on order and to hurry! It had eaten the foil right off
the PC board.

When it comes to weather proofing I'll stick with "Liquid Electrical
Tape" as my first choice, flooded heat shrink as a second (First for
splices) and "Coax Seal" (TM) as a third. I also have a habit of
coating all connections on antennas with about 5 coats of clear Krylon
(TM) with enough time between coats for the stuff to dry. Then it
gets a coat or two, or three of Liquid electrical tape. Usually I use
the bright red on antenna connectors.


Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

On Wed, 17 Mar 2004 19:26:10 GMT, wrote:

On Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:01:22 -0600, Bob Miller
wrote:

GE silicon Kitchen & Bath sealant from the hardware store.

You have to watch some of this stuff as certain brands contain
acetic(?) acid which corrodes copper.

It won't hurt a thing as long as it's not contained within a small
area. When contained it'll destroy copper and aluminum. Also it is
water proof, but not moisture proof. (see my earlier post)


I use a hot glue gun followed by copious layers of self amalgamatind
tape, followed by a couple of layers of standard PVC insulating tape
to prevent UV degradation of the self-amalalg.

Going to that much work I'd just go with flooded heat shrink tube.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com


Peter, G3PHO

"R. Scott" wrote in message
...
I had been using the Stretch Seal stuff. But Im replacing all my coax
and noticed that the Feed for my Beam the seal was all cracked and had
come apart in places (especially the braid side. Ive a can of Liquid
tape and had thought of that.

So how do you guys seal your outside coax ?
--
Rick N7HJ
Everett, Washington
Remove THREAD to reply.

One word: BUTYL

But instead of buying that "Coax-Seal" for 3 bucks for a small box,
I got a large roll "1/2 in diameter, over 10 feet long for
less than 8 bucks at an auto glass shop. Same stuff for a lot
cheaper. I bought a roll of this stuff back in 1990 and i'm still
into that same roll! Stuff lasts for decades.

Plasti-Dip



On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 04:28:49 GMT, "Major Tom"
wrote:

"R. Scott" wrote in message
...
I had been using the Stretch Seal stuff. But Im replacing all my coax
and noticed that the Feed for my Beam the seal was all cracked and had
come apart in places (especially the braid side. Ive a can of Liquid
tape and had thought of that.

So how do you guys seal your outside coax ?
--
Rick N7HJ
Everett, Washington
Remove THREAD to reply.

One word: BUTYL

But instead of buying that "Coax-Seal" for 3 bucks for a small box,
I got a large roll "1/2 in diameter, over 10 feet long for
less than 8 bucks at an auto glass shop. Same stuff for a lot
cheaper. I bought a roll of this stuff back in 1990 and i'm still
into that same roll! Stuff lasts for decades.

2 eggs over easy, sausage, and hash browns.

Eat all the food...use your finger and wipe the connector with the left over
grease on the plate!!

Fills you up..AND...seals your connector!!

What more could you ask for?

"Stevens" wrote in message
...
Plasti-Dip



On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 04:28:49 GMT, "Major Tom"
wrote:

"R. Scott" wrote in message
...
I had been using the Stretch Seal stuff. But Im replacing all my coax
and noticed that the Feed for my Beam the seal was all cracked and had
come apart in places (especially the braid side. Ive a can of Liquid
tape and had thought of that.

So how do you guys seal your outside coax ?
--
Rick N7HJ
Everett, Washington
Remove THREAD to reply.

One word: BUTYL

But instead of buying that "Coax-Seal" for 3 bucks for a small box,
I got a large roll "1/2 in diameter, over 10 feet long for
less than 8 bucks at an auto glass shop. Same stuff for a lot
cheaper. I bought a roll of this stuff back in 1990 and i'm still
into that same roll! Stuff lasts for decades.