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#21
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![]() "Jeff D" wrote in message ... "amdx" wrote in message ... "Jeff D" wrote in message ... The GE Super Radio is what I normally use to catch baseball on am 670, especially at night, but after about 10pm local time I get a Mexican station overpowering 670. I'm aware of the internet option but MLB doesn't allow broadcasting, they want you to buy their MLB network subscription. But anyway the ideal setup for me would be a good am table radio and antenna setup that I can input to my stereo system and not fight with Mexico over the channel. That's why I ask about the GE, if you can get it to work, you can cobble audio into your stereo. Regarding the interfering Mexican station, this a great application for a loop, you can turn it to null out that offending station. Even without a loop you should be able to turn the GE to null out the Mexican Station. Method; Rotate the radio so the long dimension points at the Mexican station (caution it might be in Cuba) :-) When you find the correct aim the audio from the offender will attenuate. Also sometimes it helps to tip the end that point towards the offender up a little. Mike PS. I hate it when baseball preempts talk radio programs:-) yep that's exactly what I do with the GE which helps but it's still pretty scratchy and at the most 30-40% recognizable audio Hmm, do you get a good null? Sometimes environmental materials can mix the signals and you don't get a good null. See if you can take the GE radio outside away from the building and get a null on the Mexican and a better signal on your prefered station. If not I don't see where a larger loop is going to help. Just had a thought, If the Mexican station is actually a Cuban then trying to null the Cuban would also null the Chicago station. They are about 180* apart on either side of you. I'm in Fl. the Cuban stations are my interference. Mike |
#22
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![]() "Jeff D." wrote in message ... "amdx" wrote in message ... "Jeff D" wrote in message ... "amdx" wrote in message ... "Jeff D" wrote in message ... The GE Super Radio is what I normally use to catch baseball on am 670, especially at night, but after about 10pm local time I get a Mexican station overpowering 670. I'm aware of the internet option but MLB doesn't allow broadcasting, they want you to buy their MLB network subscription. But anyway the ideal setup for me would be a good am table radio and antenna setup that I can input to my stereo system and not fight with Mexico over the channel. That's why I ask about the GE, if you can get it to work, you can cobble audio into your stereo. Regarding the interfering Mexican station, this a great application for a loop, you can turn it to null out that offending station. Even without a loop you should be able to turn the GE to null out the Mexican Station. Method; Rotate the radio so the long dimension points at the Mexican station (caution it might be in Cuba) :-) When you find the correct aim the audio from the offender will attenuate. Also sometimes it helps to tip the end that point towards the offender up a little. Mike PS. I hate it when baseball preempts talk radio programs:-) yep that's exactly what I do with the GE which helps but it's still pretty scratchy and at the most 30-40% recognizable audio Hmm, do you get a good null? Sometimes environmental materials can mix the signals and you don't get a good null. See if you can take the GE radio outside away from the building and get a null on the Mexican and a better signal on your prefered station. If not I don't see where a larger loop is going to help. Just had a thought, If the Mexican station is actually a Cuban then trying to null the Cuban would also null the Chicago station. They are about 180* apart on either side of you. I'm in Fl. the Cuban stations are my interference. Mike I don't even try indoors because it pointless, I go outside, but I've got some geographical problems being in a valley that's in a pretty dense woods. The Mexican or Cuban station has a period to it's interference, it's about a 60 second interval with a 20 second duration. I've been following the White Sox for 50 years and they've been on almost every Chicago am station, 720, 780, 890, 1000 but 670 is by far my biggest challenge to get good reception. I'll be happier when they move to another station. Wow 50 years, maybe it's time for something new. How about curling :-) Mike |
#23
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![]() "amdx" wrote in message ... "Jeff D" wrote in message ... "amdx" wrote in message ... "Jeff D" wrote in message ... The GE Super Radio is what I normally use to catch baseball on am 670, especially at night, but after about 10pm local time I get a Mexican station overpowering 670. I'm aware of the internet option but MLB doesn't allow broadcasting, they want you to buy their MLB network subscription. But anyway the ideal setup for me would be a good am table radio and antenna setup that I can input to my stereo system and not fight with Mexico over the channel. That's why I ask about the GE, if you can get it to work, you can cobble audio into your stereo. Regarding the interfering Mexican station, this a great application for a loop, you can turn it to null out that offending station. Even without a loop you should be able to turn the GE to null out the Mexican Station. Method; Rotate the radio so the long dimension points at the Mexican station (caution it might be in Cuba) :-) When you find the correct aim the audio from the offender will attenuate. Also sometimes it helps to tip the end that point towards the offender up a little. Mike PS. I hate it when baseball preempts talk radio programs:-) yep that's exactly what I do with the GE which helps but it's still pretty scratchy and at the most 30-40% recognizable audio Hmm, do you get a good null? Sometimes environmental materials can mix the signals and you don't get a good null. See if you can take the GE radio outside away from the building and get a null on the Mexican and a better signal on your prefered station. If not I don't see where a larger loop is going to help. Just had a thought, If the Mexican station is actually a Cuban then trying to null the Cuban would also null the Chicago station. They are about 180* apart on either side of you. I'm in Fl. the Cuban stations are my interference. Mike I don't even try indoors because it pointless, I go outside, but I've got some geographical problems being in a valley that's in a pretty dense woods. The Mexican or Cuban station has a period to it's interference, it's about a 60 second interval with a 20 second duration. I've been following the White Sox for 50 years and they've been on almost every Chicago am station, 720, 780, 890, 1000 but 670 is by far my biggest challenge to get good reception. I'll be happier when they move to another station. |
#24
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But, BEFORE screwing around with antenna connections [etc] get out your trusty AC voltmeter, and with the radio connected to power, VERIFY, to a known good ground reference, that none of the antenna connections/other exposed metal parts are 'live'. Older radios, particularly Shortwave units, had what is known in the repair trade, as a 'HOT CHASSIS'; where-in they lacked a power isolation transformer, & usually had non-polarized power cord plugs [both blades the same dimensions. Depending upon plug insertion, into the receptacle, it can put the full voltage of the power source, onto any metal, attached to chassis. Flip the plug over, and the chassis is no longer 'HOT]. Best to replace the plug with at least a newer version, with one wider blade. Or the latest '2 wire w/GND' style. Look at your receptacles, and note there is a longer slot (this is the a/c 'neutral' line {WHITE wire connection}, the short slot is the 'HOT' line {BLACK wire connection}, and if the receptacle is newer, it has the '3rd' wire round GROUND {GREEN wire connection}. If you don't know how to verify, find someone who does, like a member of your local Amateur Radio Club, Electrician, etc. There is an inexpensive device to plug into the latest receptacles, and verify some connections; but may not always confirm that the GROUND/ Neutral are, in fact, seperated clear to the Utility Panel. Not verifying, can result in DEATH. A neumonic, to help remember proper connections: 'BLACK on brass to save your ass', referring to the brass colored terminal. The WHITE goes to the silver screw terminal, and Green goes to {duh} the Green terminal. NOTE: if your mounted receptacles are orientated with the Ground terminal UPWARDS, then 'WHITE on the RIGHT' applies. Last edited by 328X1 : February 28th 10 at 06:14 AM Reason: grammer, etc |
#25
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![]() blitz wrote in message ... Roy Lewallen writes... blitz wrote: If you can't get Chicago at night on the GE SR, it's going to be a challenge on any radio. I think TJ is right- if you're going to bother with a long wire, it needs to be about 150' to get resonant (as in, tune the frequencies you want) down to 670 AM. My antenna, like yours (wire, then coax into the house) at 150', overloads most radios. So it needs some throttling. Otherwise, it's a monster for signals. Making the antenna resonant won't help your signal/noise ratio at all. And it makes no sense to make the antenna larger to increase the signal (and noise), then adding an attenuator to decrease it so it doesn't overload your receiver. Depends on the receiver. I wish I had *more* signal for the R8. It might not matter, but I'd like to find out. The Sony I referenced (and most other digital 'hi-fi' tuners) do need attenuation. Some of the older analog tuners don't. Noise levels also vary. On some bands it's already down at S1, so I'd be willing to accommodate a stouter signal. OTOH, a loop might really help you sort out the competing signal. . . . Yep. A lot of amateurs get confused about the requirements for sending a strong signal and those for receiving signals clearly. At HF, they're quite different. And a lot of amateurs have the mistaken idea that there's something magic about an antenna being resonant. That confusion is why you keep getting advice to make your antenna longer, higher, and resonant, while those aren't the solution to your problem at all, and in fact are likely to create additional problems due to receiver overload. I equate it (length) with meat-ball impedance matching, which upped the number of stations considerably (BCB and international SW). It could also be the 100' of coax into the house. Roy Lewallen, W7EL I bought the Sony XDR-F1HD and I really like it, no problem getting am 670 even with my crappy long wire installation, daytime signal is very clear. Haven't tried the nighttime signal but I'll probably need a loop as noted by others to get rid of the Latin station interference. The fm is very good also, good value for $75 or so. I'm looking at different options with the coax. It's routed around the perimeter of 3 walls then into another room and down a parallel wall before getting outside. I have 4 cheapo 8' fluorescent lights inside the 3 walled loop of coax and they create an annoying level of interference. I've confirmed the polarity and grounding on all the ac stuff so I'll write the hum off as noisy Chinese ballasts and leave the lights off. But anyway the move to the Sony tuner was a quantum gain. I have a tower from a conversion to satellite tv I'll erect this spring and install a fm directional and am loop antennas with a rotor. At that time I should be able to cut the coax down to a 20' run to the outside in metal conduit and buried another 20' to the tower in plastic conduit. |
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