On 12/18/2011 10:34 PM, GT Charlie wrote:
You're a little early for your unrelated to the group problem of the month. I
believe you have posted non-ham radio questions 4 times in as many months. Of
the tens of thousands of news groups, THIS is the best place to seek help on
gardening, HVAC, etc.? Have you found your solution yet?

He could do worse, being as I'm qualified to repair such
equipment on a professional basis.. I can fix all kinds
of things, not just radios.

With the massive flow of antenna articles I see these days,
it's was lucky he able to get a word in edgewise.. :|

And being as he did post about towers once, at least he's
not a total alien to this small celestial body within the
vast galaxy called usenet.

And he did say he tried to find the applicable groups,
but found no joy.

Of course, your informative post was quite valuable to this
group I'm sure. :/

Hummm..

Hi

Thanks for all the advice. And I have tried all those. I took the condensing
fan blower out and cleaned out that housing behind it and re-siliconed it.
It did have some gunk in there but not enough to cause a clog. But now that
is clean and when I reinstalled it the exact same thing happened. What is
troubling me is that even if the thermost wires are disconnected from that
board what happens is both man blower and exhast blower simply are the only
things that run. Instantly. No sequence of events eg blower starting, then
ignigters starting then main blower after heat exchangers heats up. None of
that. I jumped that float switch and those vacume hoses I sucked and blew
through them and I can hear the switches working, but same thing happens,
nothing happens with that honeywell smart valve, no gas. I checked all the
intake air pipes and exhaust pipes, nothing clogging. While everything leads
me to believe it is the board so I bought another for 80 dollars and will
replace that board today. I will take a photo of the board and one by one
replace those wired and connections and try that. I was hitting those relays
on the board and still nothing.

Seems some are upset because of my posts of my antenna and my sauna and
garden,,,, well coincedently enough I have in my basement the sauna and
steam bath thing I also installed and it was that very night that me and the
missis were steaming it up in the sauna and steam bath and I think maybe
there was moisture in the air that evening as that was the evening it
failed.

To answer a question about the lights, my friend's furnace has the idiot
lights where it blinks signifying what has failed, mine has no lights on
that board, I think mine was the model before his, mine is about ten years
old. I am going to replace this main fan relay board and see if that solves
the problem, I can return the board if the same problem remains and start
replacing the next part after that until something works right. I replaced
the thermostat with the old one and same problem.

Thanks for the advice and tips. As I have said, I know there is a lot of
knowledge in this group, I have benefited from it before and will again, as
my server doesn't have active newsgroups like HVAC or Furnace or any of the
other crazy things I have asked about. Lots of knowledge here, thanks. And i
cannot wait until someone asks a question about their furnace, or their
sauna rocks, or their tower, or their garden,,, because I will be the first
to answer.

73






"dave" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 18:20:26 -0500, Tuuk wrote:

Hi

I have the Keeprite 075 condensing gas furnace. Only about 10 years old.
Honeywell pro 8000 thermostat. NUGM100EHB1 is the furnace.

My question is what happened all of a sudden yesterday when I think I
had a bit too much humidity in the air, why did the furnace fail?

Now when there is a call for heat on the thermostat, what happens is
both blowers run only. The exhaust blower venting out runs immediately
on start up, the main house blower starts immediately on start up. But
no clicking from the honeywell smart valve, no sparking or ignighting
beginning or trying. Nothing else is happenening. No gas is going
through the valve, no obstructions in either intake or exhaust piping. I
just vacuumed everything out, I changed thermostates to the old one,
same thing happens. I suspect either the motherboard which has no lights
to blink to show alarms, or the gas valve which I had to replace couple
years ago, But back then at least the igniters would light up and shut
off immediately, told me it was a gas valve issue so replaced that and
worked. All else looks clean and I smacked as many relays as I could
see, checked all the tubes to see if connections are ok and seems ok.
Even when thermostat is turned off, disconnected, when I turn the
furnace on it only immediately starts up the both blowers and nothing
else, no clicking, no safeties going on and off, no nothing. Anyone here
have a suggestion other than hiring an HVAC contracting firm to come in
and give me estimates? I know a board is about 50 bucks, easy to
replace, gas valve is about 150 easy to replace, what ever sensor should
be cheap and easy to replace. Any suggestions as to what to try next?

Thanks Hams, I know this is off topic, but I have gotten good advice
from this group before and there are no furnace newsgroups of any kind
on my server.
Thanks for any advice or tips or links 73

Is there a thermostatic switch on the hot air manifold?

Ok,

I changed the main fan board, and still the exact same condition happens.

Even though the thermost is off, even disconnected, as soon as I turn the
main toggle switch for my furnace, both main blower fan and exhaust fans
immediately begin and nothing else happens.

I just unplugged on leg from the high limit switch, then one leg from the
low limit switch then both together

Same, nothing.
Any suggestions?

Thanks
73







" Tuuk" wrote in message
...
Hi

Thanks for all the advice. And I have tried all those. I took the
condensing fan blower out and cleaned out that housing behind it and
re-siliconed it. It did have some gunk in there but not enough to cause a
clog. But now that is clean and when I reinstalled it the exact same thing
happened. What is troubling me is that even if the thermost wires are
disconnected from that board what happens is both man blower and exhast
blower simply are the only things that run. Instantly. No sequence of
events eg blower starting, then ignigters starting then main blower after
heat exchangers heats up. None of that. I jumped that float switch and
those vacume hoses I sucked and blew through them and I can hear the
switches working, but same thing happens, nothing happens with that
honeywell smart valve, no gas. I checked all the intake air pipes and
exhaust pipes, nothing clogging. While everything leads me to believe it
is the board so I bought another for 80 dollars and will replace that
board today. I will take a photo of the board and one by one replace those
wired and connections and try that. I was hitting those relays on the
board and still nothing.

Seems some are upset because of my posts of my antenna and my sauna and
garden,,,, well coincedently enough I have in my basement the sauna and
steam bath thing I also installed and it was that very night that me and
the missis were steaming it up in the sauna and steam bath and I think
maybe there was moisture in the air that evening as that was the evening
it failed.

To answer a question about the lights, my friend's furnace has the idiot
lights where it blinks signifying what has failed, mine has no lights on
that board, I think mine was the model before his, mine is about ten years
old. I am going to replace this main fan relay board and see if that
solves the problem, I can return the board if the same problem remains and
start replacing the next part after that until something works right. I
replaced the thermostat with the old one and same problem.

Thanks for the advice and tips. As I have said, I know there is a lot of
knowledge in this group, I have benefited from it before and will again,
as my server doesn't have active newsgroups like HVAC or Furnace or any of
the other crazy things I have asked about. Lots of knowledge here, thanks.
And i cannot wait until someone asks a question about their furnace, or
their sauna rocks, or their tower, or their garden,,, because I will be
the first to answer.

73






"dave" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 18:20:26 -0500, Tuuk wrote:

Hi

I have the Keeprite 075 condensing gas furnace. Only about 10 years old.
Honeywell pro 8000 thermostat. NUGM100EHB1 is the furnace.

My question is what happened all of a sudden yesterday when I think I
had a bit too much humidity in the air, why did the furnace fail?

Now when there is a call for heat on the thermostat, what happens is
both blowers run only. The exhaust blower venting out runs immediately
on start up, the main house blower starts immediately on start up. But
no clicking from the honeywell smart valve, no sparking or ignighting
beginning or trying. Nothing else is happenening. No gas is going
through the valve, no obstructions in either intake or exhaust piping. I
just vacuumed everything out, I changed thermostates to the old one,
same thing happens. I suspect either the motherboard which has no lights
to blink to show alarms, or the gas valve which I had to replace couple
years ago, But back then at least the igniters would light up and shut
off immediately, told me it was a gas valve issue so replaced that and
worked. All else looks clean and I smacked as many relays as I could
see, checked all the tubes to see if connections are ok and seems ok.
Even when thermostat is turned off, disconnected, when I turn the
furnace on it only immediately starts up the both blowers and nothing
else, no clicking, no safeties going on and off, no nothing. Anyone here
have a suggestion other than hiring an HVAC contracting firm to come in
and give me estimates? I know a board is about 50 bucks, easy to
replace, gas valve is about 150 easy to replace, what ever sensor should
be cheap and easy to replace. Any suggestions as to what to try next?

Thanks Hams, I know this is off topic, but I have gotten good advice
from this group before and there are no furnace newsgroups of any kind
on my server.
Thanks for any advice or tips or links 73

Is there a thermostatic switch on the hot air manifold?

Call a Furnace Repair Service....



On 12/20/2011 5:34 PM, Tuuk wrote:
Ok,

I changed the main fan board, and still the exact same condition happens.

Even though the thermost is off, even disconnected, as soon as I turn the main toggle
switch for my furnace, both main blower fan and exhaust fans immediately begin and
nothing else happens.

I just unplugged on leg from the high limit switch, then one leg from the low limit
switch then both together

Same, nothing.
Any suggestions?

Thanks
73







" Tuuk" wrote in message
...
Hi

Thanks for all the advice. And I have tried all those. I took the condensing fan
blower out and cleaned out that housing behind it and re-siliconed it. It did have
some gunk in there but not enough to cause a clog. But now that is clean and when I
reinstalled it the exact same thing happened. What is troubling me is that even if
the thermost wires are disconnected from that board what happens is both man blower
and exhast blower simply are the only things that run. Instantly. No sequence of
events eg blower starting, then ignigters starting then main blower after heat
exchangers heats up. None of that. I jumped that float switch and those vacume
hoses I sucked and blew through them and I can hear the switches working, but same
thing happens, nothing happens with that honeywell smart valve, no gas. I checked
all the intake air pipes and exhaust pipes, nothing clogging. While everything
leads me to believe it is the board so I bought another for 80 dollars and will
replace that board today. I will take a photo of the board and one by one replace
those wired and connections and try that. I was hitting those relays on the board
and still nothing.

Seems some are upset because of my posts of my antenna and my sauna and garden,,,,
well coincedently enough I have in my basement the sauna and steam bath thing I
also installed and it was that very night that me and the missis were steaming it
up in the sauna and steam bath and I think maybe there was moisture in the air that
evening as that was the evening it failed.

To answer a question about the lights, my friend's furnace has the idiot lights
where it blinks signifying what has failed, mine has no lights on that board, I
think mine was the model before his, mine is about ten years old. I am going to
replace this main fan relay board and see if that solves the problem, I can return
the board if the same problem remains and start replacing the next part after that
until something works right. I replaced the thermostat with the old one and same
problem.

Thanks for the advice and tips. As I have said, I know there is a lot of knowledge
in this group, I have benefited from it before and will again, as my server doesn't
have active newsgroups like HVAC or Furnace or any of the other crazy things I have
asked about. Lots of knowledge here, thanks. And i cannot wait until someone asks a
question about their furnace, or their sauna rocks, or their tower, or their
garden,,, because I will be the first to answer.

73






"dave" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Dec 2011 18:20:26 -0500, Tuuk wrote:

Hi

I have the Keeprite 075 condensing gas furnace. Only about 10 years old.
Honeywell pro 8000 thermostat. NUGM100EHB1 is the furnace.

My question is what happened all of a sudden yesterday when I think I
had a bit too much humidity in the air, why did the furnace fail?

Now when there is a call for heat on the thermostat, what happens is
both blowers run only. The exhaust blower venting out runs immediately
on start up, the main house blower starts immediately on start up. But
no clicking from the honeywell smart valve, no sparking or ignighting
beginning or trying. Nothing else is happenening. No gas is going
through the valve, no obstructions in either intake or exhaust piping. I
just vacuumed everything out, I changed thermostates to the old one,
same thing happens. I suspect either the motherboard which has no lights
to blink to show alarms, or the gas valve which I had to replace couple
years ago, But back then at least the igniters would light up and shut
off immediately, told me it was a gas valve issue so replaced that and
worked. All else looks clean and I smacked as many relays as I could
see, checked all the tubes to see if connections are ok and seems ok.
Even when thermostat is turned off, disconnected, when I turn the
furnace on it only immediately starts up the both blowers and nothing
else, no clicking, no safeties going on and off, no nothing. Anyone here
have a suggestion other than hiring an HVAC contracting firm to come in
and give me estimates? I know a board is about 50 bucks, easy to
replace, gas valve is about 150 easy to replace, what ever sensor should
be cheap and easy to replace. Any suggestions as to what to try next?

Thanks Hams, I know this is off topic, but I have gotten good advice
from this group before and there are no furnace newsgroups of any kind
on my server.
Thanks for any advice or tips or links 73

Is there a thermostatic switch on the hot air manifold?

I only just saw your post, but before you replace the timer board, check to see
if there is a limit switch in the blower compartment, and see if there is a
reset for it. If this doesn't work, connect a jumper across it and see if that
works. If that doesn't do the trick, look for other limit switches and do the
same for those. You may not need to replace the timer board after all.

Let us know what you find out please.

Bob KB2ZGN


On Tue, 20 Dec 2011 08:47:38 -0500, " Tuuk" wrote:

Hi

Thanks for all the advice. And I have tried all those. I took the condensing
fan blower out and cleaned out that housing behind it and re-siliconed it.
It did have some gunk in there but not enough to cause a clog. But now that
is clean and when I reinstalled it the exact same thing happened. What is
troubling me is that even if the thermost wires are disconnected from that
board what happens is both man blower and exhast blower simply are the only
things that run. Instantly. No sequence of events eg blower starting, then
ignigters starting then main blower after heat exchangers heats up. None of
that. I jumped that float switch and those vacume hoses I sucked and blew
through them and I can hear the switches working, but same thing happens,
nothing happens with that honeywell smart valve, no gas. I checked all the
intake air pipes and exhaust pipes, nothing clogging. While everything leads
me to believe it is the board so I bought another for 80 dollars and will
replace that board today. I will take a photo of the board and one by one
replace those wired and connections and try that. I was hitting those relays
on the board and still nothing.

Seems some are upset because of my posts of my antenna and my sauna and
garden,,,, well coincedently enough I have in my basement the sauna and
steam bath thing I also installed and it was that very night that me and the
missis were steaming it up in the sauna and steam bath and I think maybe
there was moisture in the air that evening as that was the evening it
failed.

To answer a question about the lights, my friend's furnace has the idiot
lights where it blinks signifying what has failed, mine has no lights on
that board, I think mine was the model before his, mine is about ten years
old. I am going to replace this main fan relay board and see if that solves
the problem, I can return the board if the same problem remains and start
replacing the next part after that until something works right. I replaced
the thermostat with the old one and same problem.

Thanks for the advice and tips. As I have said, I know there is a lot of
knowledge in this group, I have benefited from it before and will again, as
my server doesn't have active newsgroups like HVAC or Furnace or any of the
other crazy things I have asked about. Lots of knowledge here, thanks. And i
cannot wait until someone asks a question about their furnace, or their
sauna rocks, or their tower, or their garden,,, because I will be the first
to answer.

73

I only just saw your post this afternoon, but before you replace the timer
board, check to see
if there is a limit switch in the blower compartment, and see if there is a
reset for it. If this doesn't work, connect a jumper across it and see if that
works. If that doesn't do the trick, look for other limit switches and do the
same for those. You may not need to replace the timer board after all.

Let us know what you find out please.

Bob KB2ZGN


On Tue, 20 Dec 2011 08:47:38 -0500, " Tuuk" wrote:

Hi

Thanks for all the advice. And I have tried all those. I took the condensing
fan blower out and cleaned out that housing behind it and re-siliconed it.
It did have some gunk in there but not enough to cause a clog. But now that
is clean and when I reinstalled it the exact same thing happened. What is
troubling me is that even if the thermost wires are disconnected from that
board what happens is both man blower and exhast blower simply are the only
things that run. Instantly. No sequence of events eg blower starting, then
ignigters starting then main blower after heat exchangers heats up. None of
that. I jumped that float switch and those vacume hoses I sucked and blew
through them and I can hear the switches working, but same thing happens,
nothing happens with that honeywell smart valve, no gas. I checked all the
intake air pipes and exhaust pipes, nothing clogging. While everything leads
me to believe it is the board so I bought another for 80 dollars and will
replace that board today. I will take a photo of the board and one by one
replace those wired and connections and try that. I was hitting those relays
on the board and still nothing.

Seems some are upset because of my posts of my antenna and my sauna and
garden,,,, well coincedently enough I have in my basement the sauna and
steam bath thing I also installed and it was that very night that me and the
missis were steaming it up in the sauna and steam bath and I think maybe
there was moisture in the air that evening as that was the evening it
failed.

To answer a question about the lights, my friend's furnace has the idiot
lights where it blinks signifying what has failed, mine has no lights on
that board, I think mine was the model before his, mine is about ten years
old. I am going to replace this main fan relay board and see if that solves
the problem, I can return the board if the same problem remains and start
replacing the next part after that until something works right. I replaced
the thermostat with the old one and same problem.

Thanks for the advice and tips. As I have said, I know there is a lot of
knowledge in this group, I have benefited from it before and will again, as
my server doesn't have active newsgroups like HVAC or Furnace or any of the
other crazy things I have asked about. Lots of knowledge here, thanks. And i
cannot wait until someone asks a question about their furnace, or their
sauna rocks, or their tower, or their garden,,, because I will be the first
to answer.

73

On Tue, 20 Dec 2011 17:34:30 -0500, " Tuuk" wrote:

Ok,

I changed the main fan board, and still the exact same condition happens.

Even though the thermost is off, even disconnected, as soon as I turn the
main toggle switch for my furnace, both main blower fan and exhaust fans
immediately begin and nothing else happens.

I just unplugged on leg from the high limit switch, then one leg from the
low limit switch then both together

Same, nothing.
Any suggestions?

Thanks

Sorry about the previous duplicate posts, the first one came back as unavailable
when I tried to download it myself. That normally only happens when a post
expires, but I digress.

Anyway, short the 2 terminals on each limit switch - one switch at a time with
the other(s) connected normally. I would start with the blower limit switch.
That would be my best guess.

I believe this furnace was made by Heil. I'm out of it now, but I've installed,
(and repaired) more of their furnaces and air conditioners over the years than I
could count. They are my favorite make. They are the same furnaces that Sears
sells, and they also used to be sold under the "Tempstar" brand. That is if they
are, as I believe, made by Heil.

Best of luck,
Bob KB2ZGN


***********************
KB2ZGN
Grid FN13gc
Can often be found on
the WB2KAO repeater at
444.850 (110.9 pl)

On 12/20/2011 4:34 PM, Tuuk wrote:
Ok,

I changed the main fan board, and still the exact same condition happens.

Even though the thermost is off, even disconnected, as soon as I turn
the main toggle switch for my furnace, both main blower fan and exhaust
fans immediately begin and nothing else happens.

I just unplugged on leg from the high limit switch, then one leg from
the low limit switch then both together

Same, nothing.
Any suggestions?

Thanks
73

Normally, the blower motor and inducer blower should not
start at the same time. I was thinking maybe you had the
T-stat fan set to "on" and it was running when you called
for heat, or maybe it was running due to a "power off
during heat cycle" code. But in that case, the blower
would run for appx 90 seconds, go off, and then the inducer
fan would come on. This is usually a code "12" on a
furnace with winky blinky error lights.

But there is another thing that can cause what you are
seeing, and that would be an open solid state hi-limit
control. If one of those goes open, the IFC "integrated
furnace control" which is the board, will cut the 24 volts
to the gas valve circuit and then energize the blower
blower, and the induced draft blower. These will stay
on until the SS hi-limit closes, and then the heat
cycle will restart. So you may well have an open
hi-limit switch. Test the two connections with an
ohm meter. If the furnace is cold, the hi-limit
should show continuity. If not, it's kaput. These
are usually in series with the other limits, so
check all of them. Some of the ones in series will
have little buttons you can press to reset.
A SS hi-limit does not have a reset button. It
should close back up on it's own after the furnace
cools down. But they can go kaput and stay open.
Some may have thermal fuse links also..

If the hi-limit shows open with an ohm meter,
jump the two wires going to it with a jumper.
If that was the culprit, the furnace should start it's
normal heat cycle, close the pressure switch, and
start the igniter.
You would then need to replace the hi-limit switch.
Don't use the jumper in normal service. EVER!
That is just for testing.

But! You would also want to make sure there is no
problem that is causing high exchanger temps before
calling it a day.
Those can be a dirty filter, failing fan motor,
bad cap to motor, motor running too low a speed,
dirty blower wheel, over firing of the burners
due to excess manifold pressure, or orifice size.
So at this point, I think I would be eyeballing
the limits and the SS hi-limit in particular.
That usually looks like a phenolic wafer board with
two terminals that is often inside the case behind
the IFC.
And don't be afraid to call a tech if you feel you
are getting in over your head. I'd hate to see
you burn your house down due to some overlooked
problem that is causing excess temps.

BTW, you should always diagnose a problem in an
orderly military manner. Don't buy parts until
they are proven bad. Throwing money at a problem
and hoping something sticks can often get expensive
and not cure the problem.
Same thing with cars... :/

Anyway, this gives you a bit more to ponder..

On 12/20/2011 9:04 PM, NM5K wrote:

That usually looks like a phenolic wafer board with
two terminals that is often inside the case behind
the IFC.

Was reading that.. Actually, that "the hi-limit" is usually
around the heat exchanger to the side of the burners..
Dunno why I said it was behind the IFC, which is usually
in the blower area.. :/ But there are other limits for
the blower too. Most of those have the little reset buttons,
and sometimes there can be one in the back side of the
blower that is hard to see. Most limits have blue wires
going to them I believe. They are all rigged up in series.
So if you see a pair of blue wires going back behind the
blower, there is a limit there mounted on the blower housing.

Bingo

You are absolutely right. There is a reset button hidden between those two
terminals in the upper limit switch in that heat chamber.

Wow, nothing I read in my manuals said anything about that reset button. And
I paid a technician to come in and diagnose what was wrong, he told me to
clean out the condensing housing there, re-silicone that as that may be
clogged up but it wasn't and I did that. He also told me he was 99% sure it
was a failed board and for him to replace was 300 plus the board, I
purchased a board for 80 and did it myself and dam, same problem existed.
Now I can return the board (or keep it as it is newer board and allows me
now for cooling delay where the old board didn't and the old board didn't
have fuses on, the new one does) so newer board is improved but now have
back up board so it wasn't the board at all. I paid for a licensed
technician to come diagnose after I tried all componenets, and was wrong.
**** happens I guess. Turns out you are exactly right Bob about the limit
switch causing both fans to run immediately. after resetting that little
button (why didn't that service guy know there was a little reset button
hidden in that unit). I bypassed that and must have had the other one closed
because it is inline with the smart valve. Wow, what a learning experience.

Anyway, I know more about my furnace than most home owners now, so good
learning experience for me and have about 100 dollars worth of extra spare
parts incase it fails again.

Excellent advice as usual from you hams. Appreciate every one of your
comments, suggestions, tips. I got it working and saved a few hundred
dollars but now know more about it than before. A lot more. Very shocked
that the licensed service technician furnace guy didn't simply try that
reset button. The easiest fix in the world, yet missed it and he would have
replaced the board and found the same problem exists then he would have kept
trouble shooting and found the relay reset button like I did and charged the
home owner a big amount and replaced the board for nothing. Should have been
an easy reset fix. Now I know.

Thanks Hams,,, 73s and happy holidays.

Now if I read anyone having issues with their furnace similiar to mine, I am
happy to offer advice. Big learning for me. Excellent. (but cost me about
100 bucks but shouldn't have cost me anything).

Thanks again





"KB2ZGN" wrote in message
...
I only just saw your post this afternoon, but before you replace the timer
board, check to see
if there is a limit switch in the blower compartment, and see if there is
a
reset for it. If this doesn't work, connect a jumper across it and see if
that
works. If that doesn't do the trick, look for other limit switches and do
the
same for those. You may not need to replace the timer board after all.

Let us know what you find out please.

Bob KB2ZGN


On Tue, 20 Dec 2011 08:47:38 -0500, " Tuuk"
wrote:

Hi

Thanks for all the advice. And I have tried all those. I took the
condensing
fan blower out and cleaned out that housing behind it and re-siliconed it.
It did have some gunk in there but not enough to cause a clog. But now
that
is clean and when I reinstalled it the exact same thing happened. What is
troubling me is that even if the thermost wires are disconnected from that
board what happens is both man blower and exhast blower simply are the
only
things that run. Instantly. No sequence of events eg blower starting, then
ignigters starting then main blower after heat exchangers heats up. None
of
that. I jumped that float switch and those vacume hoses I sucked and blew
through them and I can hear the switches working, but same thing happens,
nothing happens with that honeywell smart valve, no gas. I checked all the
intake air pipes and exhaust pipes, nothing clogging. While everything
leads
me to believe it is the board so I bought another for 80 dollars and will
replace that board today. I will take a photo of the board and one by one
replace those wired and connections and try that. I was hitting those
relays
on the board and still nothing.

Seems some are upset because of my posts of my antenna and my sauna and
garden,,,, well coincedently enough I have in my basement the sauna and
steam bath thing I also installed and it was that very night that me and
the
missis were steaming it up in the sauna and steam bath and I think maybe
there was moisture in the air that evening as that was the evening it
failed.

To answer a question about the lights, my friend's furnace has the idiot
lights where it blinks signifying what has failed, mine has no lights on
that board, I think mine was the model before his, mine is about ten years
old. I am going to replace this main fan relay board and see if that
solves
the problem, I can return the board if the same problem remains and start
replacing the next part after that until something works right. I replaced
the thermostat with the old one and same problem.

Thanks for the advice and tips. As I have said, I know there is a lot of
knowledge in this group, I have benefited from it before and will again,
as
my server doesn't have active newsgroups like HVAC or Furnace or any of
the
other crazy things I have asked about. Lots of knowledge here, thanks. And
i
cannot wait until someone asks a question about their furnace, or their
sauna rocks, or their tower, or their garden,,, because I will be the
first
to answer.

73