Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I intend to order the MFJ-1780 Box Fan Portable Loop.
I'd have it on order already but they are closed on the weekend. You can view an image at https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/...596a70d0_d.jpg It is a magnetic loop configuration, and the box is a composite wood product covering an aluminum frame which forms the loop. My interest was piqued by my need for a magnetic loop which I hoped to build, but by the time I can collect the necessary parts, I decided I could purchase the MFJ-1780 for the same money. In particular, I became very interested because it has a Remote Control which carries the signal and power through the coax, and in particular a neat looking motor driven capacitor for remote tuning. One chap has had his hanging in a tree, with weather protection provided by a plastic garbage bag. It has been up for almost six months and come spring he intended to inspect it for any possible damage to the motor/capacitor assembly due to moisture. I suggested he might want to spray the capacitor/motor assembly with WD-40, and he in turn suggested that there could be implications due to the high voltage (in the order of Kilovolts) across the capacitor, and perhaps a silicon spray might be better. I could homebrew a loop easier, but collecting the parts necessary for the loop (e.g. a motor and vacuum variable and such. let alone the remote controller) is well beyond my capabilities as I am somewhat handicapped and no longer have more than a small desk for a workshop. Has anyone suggestions or comments (except MFJ = Mighty Fine Junk) on this matter. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks de Irv VE6BP |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 1/18/2015 2:00 PM, Irv Finkleman VE6BP wrote:
I intend to order the MFJ-1780 Box Fan Portable Loop. I'd have it on order already but they are closed on the weekend. You can view an image at https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/...596a70d0_d.jpg It is a magnetic loop configuration, and the box is a composite wood product covering an aluminum frame which forms the loop. My interest was piqued by my need for a magnetic loop which I hoped to build, but by the time I can collect the necessary parts, I decided I could purchase the MFJ-1780 for the same money. In particular, I became very interested because it has a Remote Control which carries the signal and power through the coax, and in particular a neat looking motor driven capacitor for remote tuning. One chap has had his hanging in a tree, with weather protection provided by a plastic garbage bag. It has been up for almost six months and come spring he intended to inspect it for any possible damage to the motor/capacitor assembly due to moisture. I suggested he might want to spray the capacitor/motor assembly with WD-40, and he in turn suggested that there could be implications due to the high voltage (in the order of Kilovolts) across the capacitor, and perhaps a silicon spray might be better. I could homebrew a loop easier, but collecting the parts necessary for the loop (e.g. a motor and vacuum variable and such. let alone the remote controller) is well beyond my capabilities as I am somewhat handicapped and no longer have more than a small desk for a workshop. Has anyone suggestions or comments (except MFJ = Mighty Fine Junk) on this matter. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks de Irv VE6BP You are going to pay $329 + tax + shipping for that? Can't you hire someone to do the work for you for at least 3 days? Design what you want and get 2 or 3 days work from someone who can follow directions. |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
John S wrote:
snip You are going to pay $329 + tax + shipping for that? Can't you hire someone to do the work for you for at least 3 days? Design what you want and get 2 or 3 days work from someone who can follow directions. Assuming an 8 hour work day, $329/24 hours = $13.71/hour, just over minimum wage in most states these days. Good luck on finding someone who can actually do the work at a rate where it would be cheaper than just buying it from MFJ. -- Jim Pennino |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Irv Finkleman VE6BP wrote:
snip I suggested he might want to spray the capacitor/motor assembly with WD-40, and he in turn suggested that there could be implications due to the high voltage (in the order of Kilovolts) across the capacitor, and perhaps a silicon spray might be better. WD-40 is great for getting stuck things apart, but is a mediocre corrosion preventative compared to synthetics like silicon; your friend is correct. Anything hydrocarbon based is going to leave carbon residue if there is ever an arc. -- Jim Pennino |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
John S wrote:
On 1/18/2015 2:00 PM, Irv Finkleman VE6BP wrote: I intend to order the MFJ-1780 Box Fan Portable Loop. I'd have it on order already but they are closed on the weekend. You can view an image at https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/...596a70d0_d.jpg It is a magnetic loop configuration, and the box is a composite wood product covering an aluminum frame which forms the loop. My interest was piqued by my need for a magnetic loop which I hoped to build, but by the time I can collect the necessary parts, I decided I could purchase the MFJ-1780 for the same money. In particular, I became very interested because it has a Remote Control which carries the signal and power through the coax, and in particular a neat looking motor driven capacitor for remote tuning. One chap has had his hanging in a tree, with weather protection provided by a plastic garbage bag. It has been up for almost six months and come spring he intended to inspect it for any possible damage to the motor/capacitor assembly due to moisture. I suggested he might want to spray the capacitor/motor assembly with WD-40, and he in turn suggested that there could be implications due to the high voltage (in the order of Kilovolts) across the capacitor, and perhaps a silicon spray might be better. I could homebrew a loop easier, but collecting the parts necessary for the loop (e.g. a motor and vacuum variable and such. let alone the remote controller) is well beyond my capabilities as I am somewhat handicapped and no longer have more than a small desk for a workshop. Has anyone suggestions or comments (except MFJ = Mighty Fine Junk) on this matter. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks de Irv VE6BP You are going to pay $329 + tax + shipping for that? Can't you hire someone to do the work for you for at least 3 days? Design what you want and get 2 or 3 days work from someone who can follow directions. I considered that John -- thanks for the reply -- a good idea but with drawbacks. He is going to have to decide upon and design a loop controller, then find the necessary parts, design and print a PCB for those parts, and then mount them and test it. Nextstep is to find an appropriate capacitor and motor, then couple them together in such a way that they can be mounted onto the loop. Then find a metal worker who can cut and bend aluminum to the shape of the loop design, etc, etc, etc. Oh yes, and guarantee it unconditionally for one year. I've done a lot of homebrewing over the years and am now physically incapable of locating the materials, fetching them, and putting it all together, all for less than the cost of what MFJ is asking. After almost sixty years plus of converting surplus, buying and repairing broken rigs and accessories, I am now at the point where I have decided that homebrew is out of the question and off-the-shelf ready-to-wear rigs and accessories are going to have to be the way to go. Nope -- this one is going to be delivered to my door and after four years off the air due to some serious medical problems and surgeries I'm going to get back on. My new motto is RADIATE OR DIE TRYING! (Let's leave my pacemaker debate for another time!) :-) de Irv VE6BP |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sun, 18 Jan 2015 13:00:01 -0700, Irv Finkleman VE6BP
wrote: I intend to order the MFJ-1780 Box Fan Portable Loop. I'd have it on order already but they are closed on the weekend. You can view an image at https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/...596a70d0_d.jpg http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-1780 You're going to pay $330 for that? Surely you can find a cheaper mag loop antenna? One chap has had his hanging in a tree, with weather protection provided by a plastic garbage bag. Great idea. However, the reason is not so obvious. See below. This antenna was obviously not designed for permanent outdoor installation. It says so in the manual: http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Downloads/index.php?productid=MFJ-1780&filename=MFJ-1780.pdf&company=mfj OUTDOOR USE Note : The MFJ Box Fan Loop can be used outdoor only in good weather conditions ( not in windy or stormy weather). Mounted horizontally any water that collects inside will end up on the insulated side plates, where the water will not do any major damage. However, mounted vertically puts the plates of the tuning capacitor in a horizontal position, where they can collect water. This is bad. If you want to hang it vertically, please mount it with the capacitor plates vertical. This is NOT the ideal position for vertical polarization, so there may be some signal loss. Also, drill some weep holes in the bottom of the box so that water will drain out. The trash bag cover has a unique advantage. The black low-density polyethylene (LDPE) trash bags are transparent to long wave infra-red radiation, also known as heat. Hang a trashbag full of water in the sun, and it will soon deliver hot or warm water. That's how these work: http://www.coleman.com/product/5-gallon-camp-shower/2000014865?contextCategory=28170 If some water gets into the bag (e.g. condensation) and lands on the tuner, as soon as the sun comes out, the bag will get hot enough to evaporate the water. Be sure to leave the bottom of the trash bag partly open, so the water vapor has a way to get out of the bag. Even in the dim light of dawn, there will be enough heat to prevent the temperature from staying below the dew point (unless it's really cold). I don't know exactly which style or thickness of garbage bag to use. My guess is as thin as possible and only one layer, so that the most IR gets into the bag. If you want to lube the capacitor bushings or bearing, just use some heavy waterproof grease. I tend to use lithium white grease for everything, but almost any other grease will work. Since you're pushing RF through the grease, I guess dielectric grease might be a better choice. Forget about WD40. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 18 Jan 2015 13:00:01 -0700, Irv Finkleman VE6BP wrote: I intend to order the MFJ-1780 Box Fan Portable Loop. I'd have it on order already but they are closed on the weekend. You can view an image at https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/...596a70d0_d.jpg http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-1780 You're going to pay $330 for that? Surely you can find a cheaper mag loop antenna? One chap has had his hanging in a tree, with weather protection provided by a plastic garbage bag. Great idea. However, the reason is not so obvious. See below. This antenna was obviously not designed for permanent outdoor installation. It says so in the manual: http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Downloads/index.php?productid=MFJ-1780&filename=MFJ-1780.pdf&company=mfj OUTDOOR USE Note : The MFJ Box Fan Loop can be used outdoor only in good weather conditions ( not in windy or stormy weather). Thanks for another of your always good and informative replies Jeff. We are aware of the outdoor use warning -- but we are both experimenters and as he has his already, and I just ordered mine this morning, we are watching carefully to see the effects of his outdoor setup. Mounted horizontally any water that collects inside will end up on the insulated side plates, where the water will not do any major damage. However, mounted vertically puts the plates of the tuning capacitor in a horizontal position, where they can collect water. This is bad. If you want to hang it vertically, please mount it with the capacitor plates vertical. This is NOT the ideal position for vertical polarization, so there may be some signal loss. Also, drill some weep holes in the bottom of the box so that water will drain out. Weep holes -- a great idea, Thanks! hanging it so that the plates are vertical -- another great idea! Thanks even more. Since it is a magnetic loop antenna, rotating it to place the capacitor plates vertical should not make any difference. The trash bag cover has a unique advantage. The black low-density polyethylene (LDPE) trash bags are transparent to long wave infra-red radiation, also known as heat. Hang a trashbag full of water in the sun, and it will soon deliver hot or warm water. That's how these work: http://www.coleman.com/product/5-gallon-camp-shower/2000014865?contextCategory=28170 If some water gets into the bag (e.g. condensation) and lands on the tuner, as soon as the sun comes out, the bag will get hot enough to evaporate the water. Be sure to leave the bottom of the trash bag partly open, so the water vapor has a way to get out of the bag. Even in the dim light of dawn, there will be enough heat to prevent the temperature from staying below the dew point (unless it's really cold). I don't know exactly which style or thickness of garbage bag to use. My guess is as thin as possible and only one layer, so that the most IR gets into the bag. Well, I even learned about trash bag long-wave transparency! I like your comments on the evaporation of condensation! If you want to lube the capacitor bushings or bearing, just use some heavy waterproof grease. I tend to use lithium white grease for everything, but almost any other grease will work. Since you're pushing RF through the grease, I guess dielectric grease might be a better choice. Forget about WD40. WD-40 is out -- lithium or similar grease is in! Thanks a lot Jeff -- your posts are always helpful and informative. In particular, you don't just post instructions on what to do, but you provide good supportive reasoning which I am sure has been of value to many on the group. 73 de Irv VE6BP |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Mon, 19 Jan 2015 11:09:21 -0700, Irv Finkleman VE6BP
wrote: Thanks a lot Jeff -- your posts are always helpful and informative. In particular, you don't just post instructions on what to do, but you provide good supportive reasoning which I am sure has been of value to many on the group. Thanks. That's what I try to do. One line "do this" type answers are useful, but without the explanation and logic behind the recommendation, it's of little use. Besides, if I just supply the logic, and let you make the decision, and it doesn't work, it's YOUR fault for accepting my logic, and drawing the wrong conclusion. It's much like getting an opinion from an attorney. You'll never get just one option or recommendation. Instead you get a fair number of "options" among which you're expected to choose. If you pick the wrong one, it's your fault, not the attorney's. I'll do a little reading and testing later this week on the different types and thickness of LDPE sheets: http://www.bagbarn.com/all_purpose_poly_bags/garbage_bags.php Some are probably better than others. If you have an incandescent bulb flashlight (heat source) and digital IR thermometer gun, you can probably do your own testing. However, I don't want to get it too hot or it might melt the loop circuitry. That's also another reason to keep the bottom open, so that it won't overheat. I suggest testing the garbage bag over a thermometer in a cardboard box simulation of the loop, before trying it on the real thing. Note: I used to design marine radios and therefore know something about waterproofing. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 19 Jan 2015 11:09:21 -0700, Irv Finkleman VE6BP wrote: Thanks a lot Jeff -- your posts are always helpful and informative. In particular, you don't just post instructions on what to do, but you provide good supportive reasoning which I am sure has been of value to many on the group. Thanks. That's what I try to do. One line "do this" type answers are useful, but without the explanation and logic behind the recommendation, it's of little use. Besides, if I just supply the logic, and let you make the decision, and it doesn't work, it's YOUR fault for accepting my logic, and drawing the wrong conclusion. It's much like getting an opinion from an attorney. You'll never get just one option or recommendation. Instead you get a fair number of "options" among which you're expected to choose. If you pick the wrong one, it's your fault, not the attorney's. I'll do a little reading and testing later this week on the different types and thickness of LDPE sheets: http://www.bagbarn.com/all_purpose_poly_bags/garbage_bags.php Some are probably better than others. If you have an incandescent bulb flashlight (heat source) and digital IR thermometer gun, you can probably do your own testing. However, I don't want to get it too hot or it might melt the loop circuitry. That's also another reason to keep the bottom open, so that it won't overheat. I suggest testing the garbage bag over a thermometer in a cardboard box simulation of the loop, before trying it on the real thing. Note: I used to design marine radios and therefore know something about waterproofing. I was in the Navy for 26 years and just learned to tolerate the moisture. Besides, all our outside electronic equipment was pretty well taken care of with nitrogen gas! A little more than a ham needs to deal with! Irv |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Audio compression optimization: decreasing bit rate preserving high quality | CB | |||
Audio podcast optimization: decreasing bit rate preserving high quality | Homebrew | |||
corrosion | Antenna | |||
Preserving the "Real" in _REAL_ Ham Radio? | Homebrew | |||
Keeping moisture out of 9913 type coax? | Antenna |