My old delta loop on 20M SSB finally quit. Actually, it was destroyed
in a hailstorm. It was made of 18 gauge solid Copperweld, and stayed
up in the Denver smog for many years.

This equilateral antenna was mounted vertically, with apex up, fed in
middle of base.

It was a real good antenna, and I'm going to put up a replacement,
with same basic parameters.

In terms of strength, longevity, fatigue resistance, and resistance to
stretching which would be better, 12 to 16 gauge solid copper, or
12-16 gauge stranded copper?

Insulated or non-insulated?

If I use insulated 12-16 gauge copper, how much should I shorten the
overall length, expressed as a percentage, as compared to the bare 18
gauge Copperweld I had up before the storm? I will want this antenna
cut for same freq (14.225 Mhz) as the previous one.

Thank you...... Lee Carkenord KA0FPJ

I used 14 ga THHN (stranded, insulated) with black insulation. It worked.
I would think 14 ga copperweld (copper-clad steel) would be ideal, but THHN
was easily available at the local builder supply - and cheaper.
Maybe the small guage wire you used contributed to its demise - 14 ga
version of what you were using would be my first pick.
Stranded wire is more flexible than solid, but that attribute may be moot
once the antenna is in place.

"Lee Carkenord" wrote in message
om...
My old delta loop on 20M SSB finally quit. Actually, it was destroyed
in a hailstorm. It was made of 18 gauge solid Copperweld, and stayed
up in the Denver smog for many years.

This equilateral antenna was mounted vertically, with apex up, fed in
middle of base.

It was a real good antenna, and I'm going to put up a replacement,
with same basic parameters.

In terms of strength, longevity, fatigue resistance, and resistance to
stretching which would be better, 12 to 16 gauge solid copper, or
12-16 gauge stranded copper?

Insulated or non-insulated?

If I use insulated 12-16 gauge copper, how much should I shorten the
overall length, expressed as a percentage, as compared to the bare 18
gauge Copperweld I had up before the storm? I will want this antenna
cut for same freq (14.225 Mhz) as the previous one.

Thank you...... Lee Carkenord KA0FPJ


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On 8 Oct 2004 20:11:16 -0700, (Lee Carkenord)
wrote:

My old delta loop on 20M SSB finally quit. Actually, it was destroyed
in a hailstorm. It was made of 18 gauge solid Copperweld, and stayed
up in the Denver smog for many years.

This equilateral antenna was mounted vertically, with apex up, fed in
middle of base.

It was a real good antenna, and I'm going to put up a replacement,
with same basic parameters.

In terms of strength, longevity, fatigue resistance, and resistance to
stretching which would be better, 12 to 16 gauge solid copper, or
12-16 gauge stranded copper?

If stranded and bare, moisture can get between the strands and shorten
the life. There might also be some added noise.

Insulated or non-insulated?

For stranded wire in your climate, you probably want it insulated.

If I use insulated 12-16 gauge copper, how much should I shorten the
overall length, expressed as a percentage, as compared to the bare 18
gauge Copperweld I had up before the storm? I will want this antenna
cut for same freq (14.225 Mhz) as the previous one.

My Wirebook IV says shorten insulated antenna wire by 1 to 4 percent.

I'm having pretty good luck on an 80 meter dipole with the Wireman's
#18 stranded, "silky" insulated CCS.

Bob
k5qwg


Thank you...... Lee Carkenord KA0FPJ

Lee,
I think it's more a matter of preference than actual
(practical) differences between stranded and solid wire.
There is the possibility of interaction between the strands
of stranded wire (corrosion, smog, 'stuff'), no idea if it
would be objectionable in your area. One 'alternative' if
you decide on stranded wire is to use insulated wire and
seal it where you have to make connections. Ought'a make it
last longer before any of the 'interaction' between strands
begins.
You already have a fairly good idea of how long Copperweld
will last. Other types of wire will probably last about as
long, sort of.
The diameter of the conductor at HF is going to make very
little (if any) practical difference in length. You will still
have to do the normal 'checking and chopping' for resonance and
that will take care of any differences because of diameter. It's
frequency dependent, the higher the frequency, the more difference
it will make (but we're talking huge differences in frequency, not
Khz or Mhz differences).
The 'best' kind of wire to use is whatever you happen to have
the most of...
'Doc