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#1
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Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in
an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? (and thereby hangs a tale (tail?), for I have such a stake with an inverted bottle over it to circumvent the taking out of one's eye) |
#2
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Gareth's Downstairs Computer
wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? (and thereby hangs a tale (tail?), for I have such a stake with an inverted bottle over it to circumvent the taking out of one's eye) A 1metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. -- Roger Hayter |
#3
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On 04/09/2018 22:27, Roger Hayter wrote:
Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? (and thereby hangs a tale (tail?), for I have such a stake with an inverted bottle over it to circumvent the taking out of one's eye) A 1metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. You learn something everyday for I'd never heard of a slide hammer. |
#4
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![]() "Gareth's Downstairs Computer" wrote in message news ![]() On 04/09/2018 22:27, Roger Hayter wrote: Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? (and thereby hangs a tale (tail?), for I have such a stake with an inverted bottle over it to circumvent the taking out of one's eye) A 1metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. You learn something everyday for I'd never heard of a slide hammer. it is a hammer which slides .... |
#5
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On 05/09/2018 09:10, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
"Gareth's Downstairs Computer" wrote in message news ![]() On 04/09/2018 22:27, Roger Hayter wrote: Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? (and thereby hangs a tale (tail?), for I have such a stake with an inverted bottle over it to circumvent the taking out of one's eye) A 1metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. You learn something everyday for I'd never heard of a slide hammer. it is a hammer which slides .... And therefore quite different to a hammerfor? |
#6
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On 04/09/2018 21:27, Roger Hayter wrote:
Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? A 1 metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. In the days when I was into putting in earth stakes, I developed a routine that tended to avoid unfortunate happenings - learned the hard way, of course. The idea was to take a 4' solid aluminium-alloy rod, then turn a point at one end and drill and tap a thread at the other for a screw terminal. The next requirement was for a pint or so of soapy water and the most powerful mains-electric drill I could find, and then secure the terminal end of the rod in the chuck. Locate the spot where the earth stake was to go, and scoop a small 'funnel' out of the earth, into which the soapy water was poured. The point of the rod was then placed in the centre of the funnel, the drill started, and using only minimal pressure and a fairly low drill speed, press the rod into the ground. Sometimes the rod would go in to the right depth, and sometimes it would hit a solid obstruction. In the latter case it was important to keep the drill rotating while easing the rod back out of the soil and then repeating the process close by until the desired result was obtained. -- Spike A government policy document notes that “all information about an honours nominee, received from any source, is treated in the strictest confidence by the Honours and Appointments Secretariat and others involved in the assessment and selection of honours nominees”. |
#7
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On 05/09/2018 17:11, Spike wrote:
On 04/09/2018 21:27, Roger Hayter wrote: Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? A 1 metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. In the days when I was into putting in earth stakes, I developed a routine that tended to avoid unfortunate happenings - learned the hard way, of course. The idea was to take a 4' solid aluminium-alloy rod, then turn a point at one end and drill and tap a thread at the other for a screw terminal. The next requirement was for a pint or so of soapy water and the most powerful mains-electric drill I could find, and then secure the terminal end of the rod in the chuck. Locate the spot where the earth stake was to go, and scoop a small 'funnel' out of the earth, into which the soapy water was poured. The point of the rod was then placed in the centre of the funnel, the drill started, and using only minimal pressure and a fairly low drill speed, press the rod into the ground. Sometimes the rod would go in to the right depth, and sometimes it would hit a solid obstruction. In the latter case it was important to keep the drill rotating while easing the rod back out of the soil and then repeating the process close by until the desired result was obtained. Thanks, muchly. But needs to be a pretty big lathe to turn a 4 ft rod. |
#8
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In article ,
Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: On 05/09/2018 17:11, Spike wrote: On 04/09/2018 21:27, Roger Hayter wrote: Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? A 1 metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. In the days when I was into putting in earth stakes, I developed a routine that tended to avoid unfortunate happenings - learned the hard way, of course. The idea was to take a 4' solid aluminium-alloy rod, then turn a point at one end and drill and tap a thread at the other for a screw terminal. The next requirement was for a pint or so of soapy water and the most powerful mains-electric drill I could find, and then secure the terminal end of the rod in the chuck. Locate the spot where the earth stake was to go, and scoop a small 'funnel' out of the earth, into which the soapy water was poured. The point of the rod was then placed in the centre of the funnel, the drill started, and using only minimal pressure and a fairly low drill speed, press the rod into the ground. Sometimes the rod would go in to the right depth, and sometimes it would hit a solid obstruction. In the latter case it was important to keep the drill rotating while easing the rod back out of the soil and then repeating the process close by until the desired result was obtained. Gareth- A fellow Ham once showed me how to do that with a battery-powered electric drill. I do not remember him using any water. He was in the outdoor area of a Hamfest. He used the same drill to remove the ground when the Hamfest was over. I do not recall the diameter of the ground rod, but his drill fit it. Around here, 3 or 4 feet may not be long enough for good ground connectivity. But it beats having no protection at all! Fred |
#9
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Gareth's Downstairs Computer
wrote: On 05/09/2018 17:11, Spike wrote: On 04/09/2018 21:27, Roger Hayter wrote: Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? A 1 metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. In the days when I was into putting in earth stakes, I developed a routine that tended to avoid unfortunate happenings - learned the hard way, of course. The idea was to take a 4' solid aluminium-alloy rod, then turn a point at one end and drill and tap a thread at the other for a screw terminal. The next requirement was for a pint or so of soapy water and the most powerful mains-electric drill I could find, and then secure the terminal end of the rod in the chuck. Locate the spot where the earth stake was to go, and scoop a small 'funnel' out of the earth, into which the soapy water was poured. The point of the rod was then placed in the centre of the funnel, the drill started, and using only minimal pressure and a fairly low drill speed, press the rod into the ground. Sometimes the rod would go in to the right depth, and sometimes it would hit a solid obstruction. In the latter case it was important to keep the drill rotating while easing the rod back out of the soil and then repeating the process close by until the desired result was obtained. Thanks, muchly. But needs to be a pretty big lathe to turn a 4 ft rod. Merely the usual hollow shaft through the headstock holding the chuck, and 4 ft of space behind the headstock. (Or a temporary hole in the wall if necessary!) -- Roger Hayter |
#10
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On 05/09/2018 20:34, Roger Hayter wrote:
Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: On 05/09/2018 17:11, Spike wrote: On 04/09/2018 21:27, Roger Hayter wrote: Gareth's Downstairs Computer wrote: Is there a trick, or kink, or wrinkle, for putting in an earth stake with the knowledge that it will go all the way down (3 feet) into the ground without hitting an obstacle so leaving you with a problem stake that is only half way in but held so firmly by the soil that you cannot get it out? A 1 metre SDS masonry drill helps. To get the old one out a pipe wrench can be useful, and possibly a slide hammer. In the days when I was into putting in earth stakes, I developed a routine that tended to avoid unfortunate happenings - learned the hard way, of course. The idea was to take a 4' solid aluminium-alloy rod, then turn a point at one end and drill and tap a thread at the other for a screw terminal. The next requirement was for a pint or so of soapy water and the most powerful mains-electric drill I could find, and then secure the terminal end of the rod in the chuck. Locate the spot where the earth stake was to go, and scoop a small 'funnel' out of the earth, into which the soapy water was poured. The point of the rod was then placed in the centre of the funnel, the drill started, and using only minimal pressure and a fairly low drill speed, press the rod into the ground. Sometimes the rod would go in to the right depth, and sometimes it would hit a solid obstruction. In the latter case it was important to keep the drill rotating while easing the rod back out of the soil and then repeating the process close by until the desired result was obtained. Thanks, muchly. But needs to be a pretty big lathe to turn a 4 ft rod. Merely the usual hollow shaft through the headstock holding the chuck, and 4 ft of space behind the headstock. (Or a temporary hole in the wall if necessary!) That's a neat idea; must try that! |
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