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![]() IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio /////////////////////////////////////////// Kenwood TS-850S Mods Posted: 07 May 2020 10:30 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4411...d-ts-850s-mods As posted to the CQ Contest e-mail reflector Subject: TS-850 contest mods (long) Date: 4 Jun 1997 From: David O Hachadorian, K6LL Organization: cq-contest Mailing List [CQ-Contest] There was a huge number of requests for the TS-850 mods, so Ill just post them here. Mod for External Keying, While Using the Internal Keyer by N7EX Front Panel CW Sidetone Level Adjustment Mod by N6TR Separate Receive Antenna Modification #1 by WA3WJD Separate Receive Antenna Input Mod #2 by N6TR PROJECT #2: The switch box by N6TR PC Interface, without using the IF-232 Level Converter by N6TR Power Output Control by the unknown contester Level Attenuator for DRU-2 playback audio by K6LL KENWOOD TS-850: MODIFICATION FOR EXTERNAL KEYING, WHILE USING THE INTERNAL KEYER BY: N7EX (ex-N0DH), Dave Henderson One of the minor draw backs to the TS-850 as a CW contest machine is the inability to use the internal keyer in conjunction with an external keying circuit such as a personal computer or auxiliary memory keyer. As designed you must manually throw a switch from internal to external keying to switch between one or the other. To make matters even more inconvenient this switch is on the back of the unit and is not readily accessible during normal operation. Simply said this modification involves running a new keying line from the junction of S1 and D51 on the IF Board. For convenience this additional keying line can be wired to the DSP1 and/or DSP2 RCA phono jacks if you do not use the external DSP unit. The modification to the unit to resolve this problem takes less than 30 minutes to accomplish and can be done without permanently modifying the unit which would detract from its future resale value. If you dont use the external DSP unit then the two RCA phono jacks marked DSP1 and DSP2 can be used as additional keying input jacks as will be outlined below. If you use the external DSP unit then the modification can still be accomplished by running the external keying line out on a pigtail. I highly recommend the purchase of a service manual which will greatly improve your ability to indentify the circuit points involved in the modification. Considering that the radio costs $1500 whats another $30 to keep from messing it up! By the way compared to the two TS-930s that I nursed through the 80s, this radio is a breeze to trouble shoot and repair which I have had to do twice through no fault of Kenwood (long stupid story ~8). From here you proceed at your own risk, if you fry the radio DONT CALL ME. A precision low wattage solder pencil for doing surface mount soldering is recommended, If all you have is a 150 watt Weller solder gun then read no farther your better off taking the unit to an expert rather than melt the circuit traces. I assume no risk for the accuracy or completeness of the enclosed information. All yee who enter here embrace all hope for you may likely have a better contest radio when you are done. 1) Turn the unit upside down with the back of the TS-850 toward you. 2) Remove the bottom cover. 3) In this position the IF board is on your left. 4) Remove all the screws holding the IF board to the chassis. (put them in a jar or something for safe keeping). 5) Unplug enough of the cabling to allow you to tilt the board up so that you can access the bottom side of the board underneath S1 the External/Internal keying switch. 6) On the bottom side of the board directly underneath S1 you will see 6 solder pads arranged in two rows of three pads each. 7) The middle pad on S1 nearest the back of the radio should be GROUND, solder the braid of an approximately 9 inch piece of small audio style shielded cable to this point, being careful to dress the coax so as not to short to other circuitry. 8) The middle pad on S1 in the next row up of three pads is the keying line. Solder the center of the shielded cable to this point. 9) Route the other end of the shielded audio cable through the chassis in the vicinity of the DSP jacks above. 10) Carefully inspect all solder joints for shorts, etc. Replug the wire harnesses unplugged in step 5 above and reassemble the board to housing. Reassemble the bottom cover. 11) Turn the unit over and remove the top cover. 12) Find the DSP input board with the three RCA phono jacks on it at the rear of the unit. The two DSP jacks are on the right when facing the rear of the unit. There are two connectors on this board (a 2pin and a 4pin). Unplug the 4 pin connector. Obtain another 4 pin connector and connect as follows (or directly solder to the underside of the board as follows) If you only need one additional CW jack then ground is pin 2 (closer to center of the radio)connect the braid of your new key line to this pin. The input from the middle RCA phono plug is pin 1 connect the ceneter conductor to this pin. Like wise if you want two additional CW jacks then do as above plus add a short between pins 1 and 3. If you want a small RF choke or some ferrite beads on the center conductor of the audio cable may prevent keying problems in high RF field environments 14) Close the unit up and switch S1 to INTERNAL keying. You should now be able to key the unit via the internal keyer (Via the standard key input jack) or with an external keyer or computer via the old DSP jacks, without having to switch S1. TS-850 front panel CW sidetone level adjustment, mod by N6TR. Refer to NCJ, Vol 22, Issue 2, Page 23. TS-850 Separate Receive Antenna Modification #1. This modification was developed by Brian, WA3WJD Make a short loop of white telfon cable with a male and female BNC connector. Loop it out of the back of the rig so just enough of the coax sticks out so the BNCs can be joined with a barrel connector. Locate the little header connector on the filter board in the TS-850 that is on the receiver side of the TS850 antenna relay. Pull that connector loose. Spend a little time tracking down male and female header connectors that match what Kenwood uses. Install those on the ends of the white teflon coaxes sticking in the back of the radio. For normal use, just connect the BNCs with a barrel connector and the rig is normal. For Beverage use, connect an extra antenna switch common and ant #1 to the BNC connectors, and put ur Beverages on the other positions. TS-850 Separate RX antenna input mod #2. This mod was developed by N6TR. This is near the top of everyones list when they are asked What things bug you about the TS-850S. I initially overcame this deficiency by modifying my amplifier so I could connect a different receive antenna to the TR relay. However, I wanted to change things so there wasnt as much RF getting into the RX antenna due to close proximity to the amplifiers output. This became a problem when using the same receive antenna on a second radio (you knew two radio contest operating was going to work its way in here somehow). Ville, OH2MM had provided me with instruction on how he modified his TS-850S to have a separate RX input and this inspired me to try it. Here are some simple steps to hopefully inspire others: It took me an unrushed two hours to do all this. 1. Remove the top panel (you dont need to take off the bottom one). 2. Remove the plate which sits between the fan and the back of the radio. This covers the output filter PC board. 3. Unsolder the connections to the SO-239 output connector. 4. Remove the three cables from the PC board next to the SO-239. This includes two coax and one 3 conductor harness. 5. Remove the two screws holding in the PC board and remove it. 6. Locate the trace that goes from the relays normally closed contact. You can use an ohm-meter to find it probe from the wire that went to the SO-239. You will find a short trace on the back of the board which runs to a chip capacitor. Cut this trace and solder some very small coax to each side of the cut connect ground to the nearby ground trace. Make the cables about 4 inches long. 7. Remove the antenna tuner. There are 2 screws in the back and front (you will need a magnetic screw-driver) and one on the side. You will need to carefully unplug two wire harnesses and one coax connector. 8. Drill two holes for phono jacks on the back of the radio. Be careful not to obstruct the screw hole for one of the screws in the back of the antenna tuner. The best place is between the RF output connector and the groundpost. Put them on top of each other and as close to the bump on the back panel as possible. I used a vacuum cleaner while drilling to make sure no metal chips went anywhere. 9. You will find a small hole under the SO-239 where you can feed the two coaxs through. Solder them to the phono jacks and reassemble everything. I put back to back diodes on the RX antennas input, but you may not want to do this. A better thing would be to add a relay to disconnect the RX antenna input when transmitting. I took care of that in project #2. 10. Obviously, you will need a jumper cable to make your receiver work again. PROJECT #2 The switch box: 4 position rotary switchDPDT 12 VDC relay1 K Ohm pot (optional)12 phono jacks (or you can get by with 9)mini box for above and knobs.Clamp diode for relay coil if not included in relay This box does two things: disconnects the receive antenna input when transmitting and allows selection of the transmitting antenna or one of three RX antennas when receiving. The pot can be used for RF attenuation if your rig doesnt have one. The relay gets controlled by the PTT output from your rig that normally would go to your amplifier. Then one set of the contacts is used to key your amplifier. Dont forget to put a diode across the coil of your relay if there isnt one internally. Otherwise, you will have undesired arcing across the contacts of the relay in your radio. The other set of contacts disconnect the output of the rotary swtich when transmitting. The rotary switch selects either the signal coming from the transmitting antenna (from the TR relay in your rig) or one of three receiving antennas. I use two phono jacks per RX antenna so I can feed them to other boxes for other radios. I also use two jacks for +12 volts so I can jumper power to another box. You can build up one of these boxes in an hour or two. You can epoxy the relay to the mini box. If you want the pot there to act as an attenuator, I just hook it up like you would a volume control: one end is ground, the other end goes to the output of the rotary switch and the wiper goes to the output. Use shielded cable as much as possible to avoid stray pickup. Computer Interface for the TS-850, without using the IF-232 Level Converter. Mod developed by N6TR, and possibly others, with zener idea added by K6LL. Note: This interface will work with TR, contest logging software by N6TR. Computer Interface: 470 ohms DB9 PIN 3 (TXD) ----////------------ TS850 ACC 1 PIN 3 (RXD) (DB25 PIN 2) | | | ---- 5 VOLT ZENER DIODE / / | | DB9 PIN 5 (GND) ------------------------ TS850 ACC 1 PIN 1 (GND) (DB25 PIN 7) DB9 PIN 2 (RXD) ------------------------ TS850 ACC 1 PIN 2 (TXD) (DB25 PIN 3) ----- TS850 ACC 1 PIN 4 (CTS) | | | ----- TS850 ACC 1 PIN 5 (RTS) TS-850 Power Output Control VR7 on the RF Board (bottom side of radio). 125 watts or so on cw is safe. Do not exceed 100 watts on SSB, since distortion will broaden the transmitted signal. TS-850 Level Attenuator for DRU-2 playback audio. Mod by K6LL. 1. Remove the little hatch on the top of the radio. 2. With the front of the radio facing you, find connector CN505. It is a five pin connector near the filter DIP switches. The white wire on the leftmost terminal carries the DRU audio output. 3. Cut the white wire and insert a 100K ohm micromini pot, shunted with a 220 pf capacitor. Adjust the pot until DRU playback level matches live microphone level. Dave Hachadorian, K6LL The post Kenwood TS-850S Mods appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// The CobWebb Antenna Posted: 07 May 2020 10:27 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4407...obwebb-antenna he G3TPW Cobwebb antenna covers five bands, 14 28 mhz, including the WARC bands. It is made by SRW Commuications Ltd (Steve Webb), Astrid House, Swinton, Malton, N. Yorkshire YO17 0SY (tel: 01653 697513). It is strongly made using fibre glass rods and comes pretuned, but is easily adjusted to ones own frequency of preferrence if required. It consists of five nested dipole balun fed and mounted horizontally. Rotation is not required. Fed with 50 ohm coax. Can be used indoors in a loft as it only measures eight feet across and is very light to handle. Particularly recommended for those with restricted space. Source g3ycc The post The CobWebb Antenna appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// Single Coax Feed to Multi-Band Copper Cactus Antenna Posted: 07 May 2020 10:25 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4405...cactus-antenna There are three connection possibilities to feed the multi-band copper cactus antenna with a single feedline or coax. However, it is imperative that you use the proper coax for the highest band of operation, RG58 just wont cut it and even RG8 in lengths longer than 25 feet is marginal in 440 operation. For all single coax feeding methods, the antenna will require re-tuning to obtain the lowest SWR for each band. This is accomplished by installing in the pipe cap of the tuning stub on each band of operation a brass machine screw of at least 2 inches in length vertical out of the cap. The first and simplest connection method, albeit the hardest to tune, requires that you place a shorting wire on all but the lowest band of operation. If you are building your antenna from the N0ZOI (now KG0ZP) plans for The Copper Cactus Antenna and for example building a tri-bander for the frequencies of 144, 220 & 440 MHz, the shorting wires should be placed between the normal connect points for the shield and center conductor of each band. The 440 band shorting wire should be placed exactly 1 inch above the top of the horizontal pipe of the 440 tuning stub, the 220 band shorting wire should be placed exactly 1-1/2 inches above the horizontal pipe of the 220 tuning stub and your coax suitable for 440 operation should be connected exactly 2-1/4 inches above the horizontal pipe of the 144 tuning stub with the center of the coax going to the main vertical and the shield to the tuning stub (this is just the reverse of the connections shown on the plans and in the methods below), keeping the center conductor length as short as possible. For best results, tune the antenna from the highest band to the lowest, however, using the shorting method does create quite a bit of interaction. The second method is easier to tune than the first method, but does require placing 1/4 or 1/2 wavelength matching sections for all the bands of operation. If you are building a dual band antenna, the use of a T-Connector simplifies the project. Please bear in mind that you cannot use a 1/4 wavelength matching section on one band and a 1/2 wavelength matching section on another band, plus each band of operation requires the use of a matching section, including your lowest band of operation. Unfortunately, the connections will be inside the vertical section, a feat not easy to accomplish, but it does make tune-up much faster and easier than the shorting strap method shown above. The center connector of the coax matching sections is affixed to the tuning stub and the shield to the vertical section, keeping the center conductor length lead as short as possible. The third method requires no antenna re-tuning from the specifications given on the plans and random length pieces of coax may be used. However, a relay switching assembly must be constructed inside a weathertight enclosure or the use of a duplexer for dual-band operation or tri-plexer for tri-band operation can be utilized. As above, the center conductor of the coax goes to the tuning stub and the shield to the vertical. I will note that I have used random length coax, without *-plexers or relay assemblies, however, this method worked on only three of five duplicate antennas using the same random length pieces of coax on each. Each band showed an SWR of less than 1.025 to 1 until connected together, then two of the antennas showed an SWR of over 3 to 1 and three antennas were less than 1.8 to 1 across all bands without re-tuning. A little re-tuning brought the SWR down to below 1.2 to 1 on two of the antennas, but we could not acheive anything lower than the original 1.8 to 1 on the third. So if you use random length coax and no relays or *-plexers, good luck. NOTE: The connect distance above the horizontal member on each band is selected for an impedance of around 50 ohms, moving the connect point up or down from this set point can and will increase the impedance as high as 650 ohms within a distance of 1/2 inch either side of the established proper connect point. Article posted by KGØZP The post Single Coax Feed to Multi-Band Copper Cactus Antenna appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// PC-HFDL Posted: 07 May 2020 10:21 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4403/pc-hfdl Even if outdated (2002) and unsupported this freeware acars program promise to do the job. HFDL is a HF data link protocol, defined in ARINC spec 635-3 Developed byÂ* Charles Brain. Donwload PC-HFDL The post PC-HFDL appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// Super Morse for MSDOS Posted: 07 May 2020 10:19 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4401...orse-for-msdos Super Morse is the original comprehensive Morse Code training program for the PC. Super Morse permits the user to learn the Morse characters in a very orderly way using several different methods, including one unique to Super Morse; build speed with special exercises; enhance existing operating skills with even advanced exercises; measure progress with a testing feature; and even operate via radio or telephone modem. Super Morse permits the user to change speeds and other parameters on the fly, use standard spacing or Farnsworth methods, and insert interference to simulate an actual radio contact. The author is Lee Murrah, KY8T (ex WD5CID), 169 Bassett Pl., Bloomfield, MI 48301. Download Super Morse (192 Kb) Frequently Asked Questions 1. Is Super Morse available for Windows? No. Super Morse is a DOS program, but it will usually run under Windows as a DOS application using the SM.PIF file and the loop timing method. In Windows 95 you will need to restart Windows in the DOS mode. Running in a DOS window or running from the DOS prompt may not work. 2. Is there a version of Super Morse for the Macintosh? No. However, some users have reported that they are able to run Super Morse on the Macintosh with an emulator, although that will not work with versions 3.10 through 3.16 due to the timing method used. I have no plans to port Super Morse to other machines. 3. Can I send the code sounds through a sound card? Yes, you can use the Sound Blaster card if you have the right version. Versions through 3.16 do not support the Sound Blaster card, but 4.01 and later do. Super Morse is unable to use the Sound Blaster when running in Windows if the Sound Blaster is set up as the Windows sound output device. 4. Where can I obtain the latest version of Super Morse? Obviously you can download it from this Web page. The latest version of Super Morse is also always available on Compuserve HAMNET or at the Internet ftp sites ftp://qrz.com and ftp://ucsd.edu. 5. Do you have any circuits for interfacing Super Morse to my radio? No, I have no circuits other than those shown in the DOC file. 6. Why cant I just send you some money and have you send me a copy of Super Morse? Publishing Super Morse is a hobby, and I have chosen not to make a business out of it. Therefore, I do not take orders. 7. Do you accept credit cards for the contribution? No, but you can make a contribution via Compuserve by entering GO SWREG and selecting program number 649. 8. Is there a printed manual? No. The manual is distributed in QUICK.DOC and ADVANCE.DOC which are ASCII files with page numbers and table of contents that can be easily printed on your printer. 9. Do you notify users of updates? No. Unlike many other authors, I do not notify contributors when a new version is releasedI just do not have the time. Watch this Web page. 10. What is your shareware fee? I do not have a shareware fee per se. However, I do accept contributions to support development of the program. I suggest a donation of $20. Please do not send non-U. S. currency due to the high cost of currency exchange in Iowa. Instead send a postal money order denominated in Dollars. 10. Where do I send a contribution? M. Lee Murrah 169 Bassett Pl. Bloomfield, MI 48301 The post Super Morse for MSDOS appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// The Optimized Wideband Antenna Posted: 07 May 2020 10:13 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4397...deband-antenna Yagis for 20m 10m by Nathan A. Miller NW3Z nw3z-Antenna-DesignsDownload The post The Optimized Wideband Antenna appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// The G5RV Antenna Posted: 07 May 2020 10:08 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4394/the-g5rv-antenna THE G5RV ANTENNA The G5RV is a very popular antenna on the HF amateur band today. Despite its widespread use on the bands, there are some myths and misconceptions concerning the G5RV that seem to have a life of their own. Working with text from the ARRL Antenna Compendium, Volume 1, I would like to shed some light on this versatile antenna. First, from Louis Varney, G5RV, of West Sussex, UK, here is some back- ground and insights into the G5RV. The G5RV antenna, with its special feeder arrangement, is a multiband center-fed antenna capable of efficient operation on all HF bands from 3.5 to 28 MHz. Its dimensions are specifically designed so it can be installed in areas of limited space, but which can accommodate a resonably straight run of 102 ft for the flat-top. Louis further states that, In contradistinction to multiband antennas in general, the full-sized G5RV antenna was NOT designed as a half-wave dipole on the lowest frequency of operation, but as a 3/2-wave center-fed long-wire antenna on 14 MHz, where the 34 ft open-wire matching section functions as a 1:1 impedance transformer. This enables the 75-ohm twin-lead, or 50/80-ohm coaxial cable feeder, to see a close impedance match on that band with a consequently low SWR on the feeder. However, on all the other HF bands, the function of this section is to act as a make-up section to accommodate that part of the standing wave (current and voltage components) which, on certain operating frequencies, cannot be completely accommodated on the flat- top (or inverted-V) radiating portion. The design center frequency of the full-size version is 14.150 MHz, and the dimension of 102 ft is derived from the formula for long-wire antennas which is: LENGTH (ft) = 492(n-.05)/f(MHz) = (492 x 2.95)/14.15 = 102.57 ft (31.27 m) where n = the number of half wavelengths of the wire (flat-top) Because the whole system will be brought to resonance by the use of a matching network in practice, the antenna is cut to 102 ft. As the antenna does not make use of traps or ferrite beads, the dipole portion becomes progressivily longer in electrical length with increasing frequency. This effect confers certain advantages over a trap or ferrite-bead loaded dipole because, with increasing electrical length, the major lobes of the vertical component of the polar diagram tend to be lowered as the operating frequency is increased. Thus, from 14 MHz up, most of the energy radiated in the vertical plane is at angles suitable for working DX. Furtermore, the polar diagram changes with increasing frequency from a typical half-wave dipole pattern at 3.5 MHz and a two half-wave in-phase pattern at 7 and 10 MHz to that of a long-wire pattern at 14, 18, 21, 24 and 28 MHz. Although the impedance match for 75-ohm twin-lead or 80-ohm coaxial cable at the base of the matching section is good on 14 MHz, and even the use of 50-ohm coaxial cable results in only about a 1.8:1 SWR on this band, the use of a suitable matching network is nessessary on all the other HF bands. This is because the antenna plus the matching section will present a REACTIVE load to the feeder on those bands. Page 2 Thus, the use of the correct type of matching network is essential in order to ensure the maximum transfer of power to the antenna from a typical transceiver having a 50-ohm coaxial (unbalanced) output. this means unbalanced input to balanced output if twin-lead feed is used, or unbalanced to unbalanced if coaxial feeder is used. A matching network is also employed to satisfy the stringent load conditions demanded by such modern equipment that has an automatic level control system. The system senses the SWR condition present at the solid state transmitter output stage to protect it from damage, which could be caused by a reactive load having an SWR of more than 2:1. In Part 2, I will discuss the theoretical operation of the G5RV antenna band-by-bandKeith, KE2DI The post The G5RV Antenna appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// Single band copper pipe "J Antenna Posted: 07 May 2020 08:37 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4390...pipe-j-antenna N6JSX monoband J pole antenna dimensions Copper-Pipe-J-AntDownload The post Single band copper pipe J Antenna appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// A $50 Beverage Posted: 07 May 2020 08:34 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4388/a-50-beverage by Randall Thompson, K5ZD Originally printed in the YCCC Scuttlebutt #119, October, 1995 I built my first Beverage this past year. It was so easy I cant believe I lived without one. Heres how to do it: Go to Home Depot (or other large hardware store) and buy a 500 ft roll #16 THHN or MTW wire. Its available in every color you can imagine for about $15 per 500/ft roll.Go to local feed store and get some electric fence insulators. This cost me about $3.Call your favorite radio dealer and order an ICE Beverage matching box. Cost: about $40.Go to Radio Shack and get a 400-600 ohm resistor. I actually used four (4) 2K-Ohm, 2-Watt resistors in parallel!Roll out the wire in the desired direction. Mount the fence insulators to convenient trees (my Beverage is not perfectly straight) about 7-9 feet up. Connect one end of the wire to ground through the resistor. Connect the other end to the matching box. Connect coax. Enjoy! I did follow the conventional wisdom of sloping the ends down. I used 4 foot ground rods at each end. I only have room for a 500 foot run. W3LPL has pointed out that 580 might be a better length. It’s simple to solder some more wire on. This antenna makes 80 and 160 enjoyable. Less than $50 to hear Europeans all summer on the LF bands seems like a good deal if you have the space! When the antenna broke this summer, I used a split bolt connector to join the two pieces back together. You can find these for about $1 in the electrical aisle of the Home Depot (or hardware store). No solder required! Note 2: You can also order an ICE matching-transformer from: Industrial Communication Engineers, LTD. Indianapois, IN Website:Industrial Communication Engineers, LTD. About 1/2 the way down the above ICE webpage, youll see that ICE offers their Model 180A matching box for $39 (plus shipping). The 180A has taps to select 50 or 75-Ohm coax feedlines, and taps to match 300/450/600 or 800-Ohm Beverage antenna loads. The 180A also has dc blocking capacitors, and a gas-discharge lightning protection system. The post A $50 Beverage appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. /////////////////////////////////////////// The Lattin 5 band Antenna Posted: 07 May 2020 08:32 AM PDT http://www.iw5edi.com/ham-radio/4385...5-band-antenna The antenna was named for W4JRW who invented it and holds a patent on the basic principle and uses quarter wave stubs, which act as insulators at the frequency for which they are cut. For example, the 611 stub (quarter wave times the velocity factor 0.8 of the feed line used) blocks RF for 28 mhz from reaching the rest of the antenna. In the example shown in the diagram, tubular foam filled 300 ohm feed line was used, which has a VF of 0.8. Other feedlines may be used, for example, slotted ribbon and the length of the stubs worked out using the correct velocity factor Building the lattin antenna This will require some forethought and planning. Avoid cutting the continuous top wire, which supports the whole system. I wonder if it might be an idea to use a suitable polypropylene line to support the wire, which may be subject to breaks, especially at the solder points? A suitable centre piece may be constructed and constructors may want to include a balun at the centre of this balanced antenna, which is fed with unbalanced line (coax). A version of the Lattin could be designed for all bands, including the WARC bands get snipping! The post The Lattin 5 band Antenna appeared first on IW5EDI Simone - Ham-Radio. |
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