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#1
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I'm intending to have a go at building this antenna. The only problem I have
is that I cannot find a supplier of aluminium tubing that stocks single lengths long enough for a 8.3 metre boom. I therefore need to join two lengths of 25 x 25mm square tube together. Any one recommend a suitable method of doing this please ?. I'd rather avoid welding as I would have to buy the kit to do it. Regards Steve |
#2
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Steve,
25 mm is rather skinny to go 8.3 meters with. However, the following should work. I assume the tubing is available in 3 meter lengths. 10 foot lengths would be even better. Get four 3 meter pieces, and cut one down to 2.3 meters. Now bolt and center this 2.3 meter piece to the side of one 3 meter pieces. The 2.3 meter piece will be the top of your antenna, the 3 meter piece the bottom. Now bolt the remaining 3 meter pieces to the bottom piece, and you should have an 8.3 meter boom. Whatever you do, do not use brass or copper hardware. You might want add a strap to the top side where each of the 3 meter pieces butts up to the 2.3 meter piece. Tam/WB2TT "Steve" wrote in message ... I'm intending to have a go at building this antenna. The only problem I have is that I cannot find a supplier of aluminium tubing that stocks single lengths long enough for a 8.3 metre boom. I therefore need to join two lengths of 25 x 25mm square tube together. Any one recommend a suitable method of doing this please ?. I'd rather avoid welding as I would have to buy the kit to do it. Regards Steve |
#3
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![]() "Tarmo Tammaru" wrote in message ... Steve, 25 mm is rather skinny to go 8.3 meters with. However, the following should work. I assume the tubing is available in 3 meter lengths. 10 foot lengths would be even better. Get four 3 meter pieces, and cut one down to 2.3 meters. Now bolt and center this 2.3 meter piece to the side of one 3 meter pieces. The 2.3 meter piece will be the top of your antenna, the 3 meter piece the bottom. Now bolt the remaining 3 meter pieces to the bottom piece, and you should have an 8.3 meter boom. Whatever you do, do not use brass or copper hardware. You might want add a strap to the top side where each of the 3 meter pieces butts up to the 2.3 meter piece. Tam/WB2TT Thanks Tam, the tubing comes in 5m lengths - so I could cut one down to 3.3m and place it end-to-end with the remaining 5m tube. Then use the 1.7m offcut bolted to the underside of the 5m and 3.3m tubes. I could go to 30mm tube if needed. All I need now is the plans for the antenna but I should have those soon. I have some 25mm wide earthing strap I could use between the sections. Steve G1FQD |
#4
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Steve wrote:
All I need now is the plans for the antenna but I should have those soon. In about as long as it takes to go to the 'VHF/UHF Long Yagi Workshop' on the site below. Some other questions will be answered there too. Certainly a shorter sub-boom centred on the balance point is one good way to go. Another is to use quarter-inch larger square tube for the middle section, with the inch-square boom running right through, and hard aluminium shims driven into the end. Don't forget to use a larger boom correction for that centre section. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
#5
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Steve,
Here is something else you might want to do. I did this to a KLM50-7 which has a boom a bit less than 7 meters long. Took 2 pieces of 3/8 inch Al tubing, about 5 feet long, and flattened both ends in a vise, then bent at 45 degrees. Drilled holes in the flattened portion, and bolted one end of each to the boom, the other end to the mast through one hole, and a long bolt, about 3 mm. Makes the boom absolutely stable in a wind. Tam/WB2TT |
#6
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![]() "Tarmo Tammaru" wrote in message ... Steve, Here is something else you might want to do. I did this to a KLM50-7 which has a boom a bit less than 7 meters long. Took 2 pieces of 3/8 inch Al tubing, about 5 feet long, and flattened both ends in a vise, then bent at 45 degrees. Drilled holes in the flattened portion, and bolted one end of each to the boom, the other end to the mast through one hole, and a long bolt, about 3 mm. Makes the boom absolutely stable in a wind. Tam/WB2TT That's worth serious consideration as I live in a windy location. I was thinking about using support wires clamped to the mast 2 feet above the boom but I'll re-think it now. Steve |
#7
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![]() "Ian White, G3SEK" wrote in message ... Steve wrote: All I need now is the plans for the antenna but I should have those soon. In about as long as it takes to go to the 'VHF/UHF Long Yagi Workshop' on the site below. Some other questions will be answered there too. Been there, done that. Couldn't find the measurements for the 4 wavelength version. I have them now though from SV5BYRs site Certainly a shorter sub-boom centred on the balance point is one good way to go. Another is to use quarter-inch larger square tube for the middle section, with the inch-square boom running right through, and hard aluminium shims driven into the end. Don't forget to use a larger boom correction for that centre section. thanks for the advice. It is much appreciated. The only question I have now is probably a daft one but here goes....... the plans for this antenna specify that the reflector should be at position 0 on the boom and D13 should be at 8300mm relative to the position of the reflector.. Where would one drill the hole for the reflector ? i.e how far in from the end of the tube, and how far past the hole for the last director would the boom actually end ? -- http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
#8
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Steve wrote:
The only question I have now is probably a daft one but here goes....... the plans for this antenna specify that the reflector should be at position 0 on the boom and D13 should be at 8300mm relative to the position of the reflector.. Where would one drill the hole for the reflector ? i.e how far in from the end of the tube, and how far past the hole for the last director would the boom actually end ? If the hole is far enough from the end that it doesn't weaken the element mounting mechanically, that also seems to be OK as regards the electrical effect of the metal boom. It's nice to use plastic end caps (most yagi manufacturers will sell you a few) so the practical distance for the holes is just far enough so that the end cap will push in without fouling anything inside. Or make it about pi/2 times the width of your thumb, and then trim the end cap until it fits... no worries. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek |
#9
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![]() It's nice to use plastic end caps (most yagi manufacturers will sell you a few) so the practical distance for the holes is just far enough so that the end cap will push in without fouling anything inside. Or make it about pi/2 times the width of your thumb, and then trim the end cap until it fits... no worries. -- 73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB) Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek Lovely. Thanks Ian. Steve |
#10
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![]() "Steve" wrote in message .. . The only question I have now is probably a daft one but here goes....... the plans for this antenna specify that the reflector should be at position 0 on the boom and D13 should be at 8300mm relative to the position of the reflector.. Where would one drill the hole for the reflector ? i.e how far in from the end of the tube, and how far past the hole for the last director would the boom actually end ? There is a mechanical engineering standard on that. The issue came up re the A310 design after the NY crash where the tail tore off . I believe the standard is 2 hole diameters. I looked at my VHF beams, and they are about 25mm. Tam/WB2TT |
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