Biting the bullet, and with a cup of coffee and a fresh cigar, I first
examined the free motion of each pawl. Last night, with a needle point
oiler, I had put a little thin oil on the pawls to soften up any old
grease. They all turned freely except the same two as before; these I
could not get to rotate seperately, even applying light pressure in
opposite directions. Therefore I removed the brass bushing holding the
washers in a stack on the drive shaft, and carefully removed the stack
of (6) pawls. The two that were stuck were REALLY stuck together, but I
was able to slide them apart between my thumb and index finger. There
was no corrosion between them, just dried grease. The ball bearing race
was also dry, so I cleaned it out, and relubed them with HO railroad
gear grease. Incidently, each of the (6) pawls is identical, so keeping
them properly stacked was not important. The only thing is that the
outer most must be engaged via a roll pin in the brass bushing when
reassembled. Ok, now I lost my train of thought, and ran the drive with
a screw driver to work in the new grease. MISTAKE! I forgot to note
whether the variable capacitor driven by all this was at min
capacitance or max capitance when the shaft was in the full
counter-clockwise position. So what is you best guess? Should I try MIN
or MAX capacitance for the fully counter-clockwise rotation(lowest
frequency)? I can change it later if wrong, but I would like to save
all the disassembly and reassembly if I can.

sargent wrote:
MISTAKE! I forgot to note
whether the variable capacitor driven by all this was at min
capacitance or max capitance when the shaft was in the full
counter-clockwise position.

I believe you are going to find the capacitor was at neither position,
but rather somewhere in the middle. They were looking for best linearity,
and that is never found near the ends of travel.

So what is you best guess? Should I try MIN
or MAX capacitance for the fully counter-clockwise rotation(lowest
frequency)? I can change it later if wrong, but I would like to save
all the disassembly and reassembly if I can.

What I would do, is power up the LMO, and adjust the capacitor to
the highest frequency, and then setup the stack for the correct
rotation direction. (which I don't recall). The LMO tunes 5.0-5.5 MHz,
though.

I went looking for LMO instructions, and found them first try using
google:

Heathkit LMO repair

The instructions are on the BAMA site.

-Chuck Harris

"Chuck Harris" wrote in message
...
sargent wrote:
MISTAKE! I forgot to note
whether the variable capacitor driven by all this was at min
capacitance or max capitance when the shaft was in the full
counter-clockwise position.

Fully clockwise is MAX capacity. (Min Frequency)

W4ZCB

I checked the BAMA note, and every place else I could find, without
result. BAMA has a schematic of the solid state (a la 303 and 102 rigs)
LMO, but no hints such as I am seeking. Neither my '301 rcvr nor '102
vxcr uses the same part number LMO, but I guess I can look inside to
see for a comparison of the variable cap position.. So far as being set
somewhere in mid-value of the variable cap, that may be true. I'll lock
down the tuning bits and give it (5) rotations- that will tell me if
STOP to STOP on the dial is equal to full rotation of the cap. Thanks
for your suggestions.


Chuck Harris wrote:
sargent wrote:
MISTAKE! I forgot to note
whether the variable capacitor driven by all this was at min
capacitance or max capitance when the shaft was in the full
counter-clockwise position.

I believe you are going to find the capacitor was at neither position,
but rather somewhere in the middle. They were looking for best linearity,
and that is never found near the ends of travel.

So what is you best guess? Should I try MIN
or MAX capacitance for the fully counter-clockwise rotation(lowest
frequency)? I can change it later if wrong, but I would like to save
all the disassembly and reassembly if I can.

What I would do, is power up the LMO, and adjust the capacitor to
the highest frequency, and then setup the stack for the correct
rotation direction. (which I don't recall). The LMO tunes 5.0-5.5 MHz,
though.

I went looking for LMO instructions, and found them first try using
google:

Heathkit LMO repair

The instructions are on the BAMA site.

-Chuck Harris

sargent wrote:

Biting the bullet, and with a cup of coffee and a fresh cigar, I first
examined the free motion of each pawl. Last night, with a needle point
oiler, I had put a little thin oil on the pawls to soften up any old
grease. They all turned freely except the same two as before; these I
could not get to rotate seperately, even applying light pressure in
opposite directions. Therefore I removed the brass bushing holding the
washers in a stack on the drive shaft, and carefully removed the stack
of (6) pawls. The two that were stuck were REALLY stuck together, but I
was able to slide them apart between my thumb and index finger. There
was no corrosion between them, just dried grease. The ball bearing race
was also dry, so I cleaned it out, and relubed them with HO railroad
gear grease. Incidently, each of the (6) pawls is identical, so keeping
them properly stacked was not important. The only thing is that the
outer most must be engaged via a roll pin in the brass bushing when
reassembled. Ok, now I lost my train of thought, and ran the drive with
a screw driver to work in the new grease. MISTAKE! I forgot to note
whether the variable capacitor driven by all this was at min
capacitance or max capitance when the shaft was in the full
counter-clockwise position. So what is you best guess? Should I try MIN
or MAX capacitance for the fully counter-clockwise rotation(lowest
frequency)? I can change it later if wrong, but I would like to save
all the disassembly and reassembly if I can.


Aren't there marks on the capacitor shaft from the setscrews?


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

There are set screw marks, The problem is knowing if they are from FULL
rotation, or one revolution of the shaft less.


Michael A. Terrell wrote:
sargent wrote:

Biting the bullet, and with a cup of coffee and a fresh cigar, I first
examined the free motion of each pawl. Last night, with a needle point
oiler, I had put a little thin oil on the pawls to soften up any old
grease. They all turned freely except the same two as before; these I
could not get to rotate seperately, even applying light pressure in
opposite directions. Therefore I removed the brass bushing holding the
washers in a stack on the drive shaft, and carefully removed the stack
of (6) pawls. The two that were stuck were REALLY stuck together, but I
was able to slide them apart between my thumb and index finger. There
was no corrosion between them, just dried grease. The ball bearing race
was also dry, so I cleaned it out, and relubed them with HO railroad
gear grease. Incidently, each of the (6) pawls is identical, so keeping
them properly stacked was not important. The only thing is that the
outer most must be engaged via a roll pin in the brass bushing when
reassembled. Ok, now I lost my train of thought, and ran the drive with
a screw driver to work in the new grease. MISTAKE! I forgot to note
whether the variable capacitor driven by all this was at min
capacitance or max capitance when the shaft was in the full
counter-clockwise position. So what is you best guess? Should I try MIN
or MAX capacitance for the fully counter-clockwise rotation(lowest
frequency)? I can change it later if wrong, but I would like to save
all the disassembly and reassembly if I can.


Aren't there marks on the capacitor shaft from the setscrews?


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

The two LMO's are mechanically equal to each other, they are based on a
design by Joe Shafer. If you open up the can, you will find a worm
drive coupled to the tuning capacitor. That worm drive and cap are certain
to need cleaning and regreasing, by the way.

Follow the setup directions for the SB102's LMO, and you will do just
fine... I think.

-Chuck

sargent wrote:
There are set screw marks, The problem is knowing if they are from FULL
rotation, or one revolution of the shaft less.


Michael A. Terrell wrote: