Hi all,

I have several old Vibroplex bugs in my collection - what is the
best way to clean them without having to disassemble them?

I was wondering about a warm-water full immersion bath
with a light detergent (hand dish soap I was thinking) and letting
them soak, then wipe all areas clean in the water, and then air
dry quickly (blow dryer).

Is this wise, unwise, or simply not going to be effective?

Thanks!

Dave WB7AWK

"None" wrote in message
. ..
Hi all,

I have several old Vibroplex bugs in my collection - what is the
best way to clean them without having to disassemble them?

I was wondering about a warm-water full immersion bath
with a light detergent (hand dish soap I was thinking) and letting
them soak, then wipe all areas clean in the water, and then air
dry quickly (blow dryer).

Is this wise, unwise, or simply not going to be effective?

Thanks!

Dave WB7AWK
Maybe E-Mail Randy Cole, KN6W

See his page The Vibroplex Collector's Page at URL:

http://www.la.ca.us/frandy/index.html

Lamont

"None" wrote in message
. ..
Hi all,

I have several old Vibroplex bugs in my collection - what
is the
best way to clean them without having to disassemble them?

I was wondering about a warm-water full immersion bath
with a light detergent (hand dish soap I was thinking) and
letting
them soak, then wipe all areas clean in the water, and
then air
dry quickly (blow dryer).

Is this wise, unwise, or simply not going to be effective?

Thanks!

Dave WB7AWK
If they are very dirty its best to disassemble them.
Its not difficult but make drawings so you remember where
things go. However, the technique is pretty much the same
either way. Use a solution of dishwashing detergent for
overall cleaning using a toothbrush to scrub off the dirt.
Use toothpaste for the chrome parts, again using a
toothbrush. Be very careful of oxide removers like
Barkeepers Friend because they can remove some of the
chrome. The same for chrome or metal polish. I've found
that war time keys especially have very poor plating,
probably because both chrome and nickel were restricted
materials.
Clean the contacts with plain bond paper followed by a
drop of contact cleaner. Contact cleaner also works as a
mild lubricant for the trunions of the lever.
Once cleaned the key should be dried out in a oven with
just the pilot going. The problem with cleaning when
assembled is that water can get down into the screws and can
cause corrosion.
Adjustment of bugs is fairly simple and of course shold
be done to the taste of the operator. The military had a
starting set-up which I find about right. For the older
"standard" key set the stop for the dot side at about 0.015"
and the dot contact gap at 0.010. For "Lightening Bug" types
set the dot gap for 0.010 rather than 0.015 because the
distances to the fulcrum are different. These settings will
result in about the same movemet of the dot lever. The dash
distance is about the same on both types of keys. Other
adjustments are fairly obvious and spring tension is to
taste. Usually, I set both springs at about half way to
begin.
Minimum dot speed is dependant on the strength of the
main spring, that is the flat spring that attaches the
pendulum to the lever. This is fixed on most bugs. The
stronger the spring the faster the minimum dot speed.
If you have a Lionel J-36 that still has the label on
it be very careful not to get it wet. The labels on these
keys are made of cellulose acetate to save metal and are
typically shrunk and very fragile. They have broken off long
ago on most of these keys.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

Thanks for the info!

Dave


"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message
...

"None" wrote in message
. ..
Hi all,

I have several old Vibroplex bugs in my collection - what is the
best way to clean them without having to disassemble them?

I was wondering about a warm-water full immersion bath
with a light detergent (hand dish soap I was thinking) and letting
them soak, then wipe all areas clean in the water, and then air
dry quickly (blow dryer).

Is this wise, unwise, or simply not going to be effective?

Thanks!

Dave WB7AWK
If they are very dirty its best to disassemble them. Its not
difficult but make drawings so you remember where things go. However, the
technique is pretty much the same either way. Use a solution of
dishwashing detergent for overall cleaning using a toothbrush to scrub off
the dirt. Use toothpaste for the chrome parts, again using a toothbrush.
Be very careful of oxide removers like Barkeepers Friend because they can
remove some of the chrome. The same for chrome or metal polish. I've
found that war time keys especially have very poor plating, probably
because both chrome and nickel were restricted materials.
Clean the contacts with plain bond paper followed by a drop of contact
cleaner. Contact cleaner also works as a mild lubricant for the trunions
of the lever.
Once cleaned the key should be dried out in a oven with just the pilot
going. The problem with cleaning when assembled is that water can get down
into the screws and can cause corrosion.
Adjustment of bugs is fairly simple and of course shold be done to the
taste of the operator. The military had a starting set-up which I find
about right. For the older "standard" key set the stop for the dot side at
about 0.015" and the dot contact gap at 0.010. For "Lightening Bug" types
set the dot gap for 0.010 rather than 0.015 because the distances to the
fulcrum are different. These settings will result in about the same
movemet of the dot lever. The dash distance is about the same on both
types of keys. Other adjustments are fairly obvious and spring tension is
to taste. Usually, I set both springs at about half way to begin.
Minimum dot speed is dependant on the strength of the main spring,
that is the flat spring that attaches the pendulum to the lever. This is
fixed on most bugs. The stronger the spring the faster the minimum dot
speed.
If you have a Lionel J-36 that still has the label on it be very
careful not to get it wet. The labels on these keys are made of cellulose
acetate to save metal and are typically shrunk and very fragile. They have
broken off long ago on most of these keys.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA