I'm tryin to get this thing recapped and I got one of the set screws
on the xtal switch all buggered up. It's made out of titanium or
kryptonite cause I been after it with a drill for about 2 days and I
barely dented it.

Two stops at Ace hardware on my way home for their best drills and I'm
stymied. I started with a 1/16 white, then the black hardened, and now
the cobalt. The cobalt is probaby the best, but they'res gotta be a
better solution.

So what do kind of a bit am I looking for?

Next screw I think I'll try some WD and a little heat.

regards,
Bob
N9NEO

"N9NEO" wrote in message
...
I'm tryin to get this thing recapped and I got one of the
set screws
on the xtal switch all buggered up. It's made out of
titanium or
kryptonite cause I been after it with a drill for about 2
days and I
barely dented it.

Two stops at Ace hardware on my way home for their best
drills and I'm
stymied. I started with a 1/16 white, then the black
hardened, and now
the cobalt. The cobalt is probaby the best, but they'res
gotta be a
better solution.

So what do kind of a bit am I looking for?

Next screw I think I'll try some WD and a little heat.

regards,
Bob
N9NEO

AFAIK all the screws in the SP-600 are plain steel. I've had
problems with RXs treated with anti-fungus material. Its
_very_ hard to get off but long treatment with paint remover
will eventually do it. This stuff can get into screw holes
and glue the screws pretty effectively. Also, if the screw
is bare try Liquid Wrench. I've found it to be more
effective than WD-40 for unsticking things. Again, you may
have to use repeated treatments for a couple of weeks. Then
use an Easy-Out in a hand drill or some other holder you can
control.


--

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL

N9NEO wrote:
I'm tryin to get this thing recapped and I got one of the set screws
on the xtal switch all buggered up. It's made out of titanium or
kryptonite cause I been after it with a drill for about 2 days and I
barely dented it.

Two stops at Ace hardware on my way home for their best drills and I'm
stymied. I started with a 1/16 white, then the black hardened, and now
the cobalt. The cobalt is probaby the best, but they'res gotta be a
better solution.

So what do kind of a bit am I looking for?

Next screw I think I'll try some WD and a little heat.

regards,
Bob
N9NEO

Bob,
If you're referring to set screws in the knobs, shaft-couplings, etc.,
they are, in fact, hardened steel. Drilling them out can be a futile
effort. A combination of penetrating solution and the proper size easy
out should do it. I will tell you , though, on occasion I have had to
use the Dremel tool with a cuttoff disk and dismember the offending
coupler, etc. as nothing worked. The worst case was a stuck main tuning
knob on a BC-348 that simply had to be removed. Now, that was a
job.........!

de K3HVG



--
Posted Via Newsfeeds.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Service
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N9NEO wrote:
I'm tryin to get this thing recapped and I got one of the set screws
on the xtal switch all buggered up. It's made out of titanium or
kryptonite cause I been after it with a drill for about 2 days and I
barely dented it.

Two stops at Ace hardware on my way home for their best drills and I'm
stymied. I started with a 1/16 white, then the black hardened, and now
the cobalt. The cobalt is probaby the best, but they'res gotta be a
better solution.

So what do kind of a bit am I looking for?

You want a reverse screw bit. It will drill a little bit, and in the
process it will loosen the setscrew. Try a local auto parts store for
a set of them.... most of the auto places only sell cheapies but they
will do the job once or twice.

Next screw I think I'll try some WD and a little heat.

WD-40 is basically useless as a penetrating oil. Try PB Blaster or
Break-Free or something designed for the job.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
N9NEO wrote:
You want a reverse screw bit. It will drill a little bit, and in the
process it will loosen the setscrew. Try a local auto parts store for
a set of them.... most of the auto places only sell cheapies but they
will do the job once or twice.

Next screw I think I'll try some WD and a little heat.

WD-40 is basically useless as a penetrating oil. Try PB Blaster or
Break-Free or something designed for the job.
--scott



Scott gives good advice! I would definitely try the reverse screw
bits.

Pete

On Feb 12, 3:35*am, N9NEO wrote:
I'm tryin to get this thing recapped and I got one of the set screws
on the xtal switch all buggered up. *It's made out of titanium or
kryptonite cause I been after it with a drill for about 2 days and I
barely dented it.

Two stops at Ace hardware on my way home for their best drills and I'm
stymied. I started with a 1/16 white, then the black hardened, and now
the cobalt. *The cobalt is probaby the best, but they'res gotta be a
better solution.

So what do kind of a bit am I looking for?

Next screw I think I'll try some WD and a little heat.

regards,
Bob
N9NEO


Oddy you could use a tipped masonary drill if you can find one
small enough ... need a good feed pressure but it will do the
job ...used one to drill the hardend clutch housing on my 750 Norton
a long time ago ... its tungsten tipped

G ..

So in the end and after spending about 20 bucks for drills and about 2
hours trying to drill it out, I got serious. I took another trip to
the depot and picked up a cutting wheel set for my Dremel, a
Bernzamatic pencil torch and fuel. I had the three remaining hex nuts
coaxed off in less than 5 minutes with a little heat, The snockered up
hexnut was out in another 2 minutes.

So if you're going to have to take out some of those hardened buggers
I would apply a little heat if they give yu any resistance. Torch was
$9.99 and as far as I am concerned a very good investment. Dremel
cutting wheel set was another $13 and likewise a good investment.

regards,
NEO

N9NEO wrote:
So in the end and after spending about 20 bucks for drills and about 2
hours trying to drill it out, I got serious. I took another trip to
the depot and picked up a cutting wheel set for my Dremel, a
Bernzamatic pencil torch and fuel. I had the three remaining hex nuts
coaxed off in less than 5 minutes with a little heat, The snockered up
hexnut was out in another 2 minutes.

So if you're going to have to take out some of those hardened buggers
I would apply a little heat if they give yu any resistance. Torch was
$9.99 and as far as I am concerned a very good investment. Dremel
cutting wheel set was another $13 and likewise a good investment.

regards,
NEO

Describe the process...all I see are the tools. Did you dremel a
screwdriver slot into the bad hex head?

jak

On Feb 19, 11:54*pm, jakdedert wrote:
N9NEO wrote:
So in the end and after spending about 20 bucks for drills and about 2
hours trying to drill it out, I got serious. *I took another trip to
the depot and picked up a cutting wheel set for my Dremel, a
Bernzamatic pencil torch and fuel. *I had the three remaining hex nuts
coaxed off in less than 5 minutes with a little heat, The snockered up
hexnut was out in another 2 minutes.

So if you're going to have to take out some of those hardened buggers
I would apply a little heat if they give yu any resistance. *Torch was
$9.99 and as far as I am concerned a very good investment. *Dremel
cutting wheel set was another $13 and likewise a good investment.

regards,
NEO

Describe the process...all I see are the tools. *Did you dremel a
screwdriver slot into the bad hex head?

jak

Hi Jak,

Nope. I took the remaining three screws out and cut the coupler in
half the long way. I drove the grinding wheel straight through the
hardened steel screw - no problem. I've used the Dremel tool when in
an emergency situation working on exhaust systems.

regards,
Bob
N9NEO