Ok here goes, I have a Johnson Vilike I and it was working then I was on the
air talking and it was my turn to XMIT so I flipped the Plate switch up and
fire shot out of it and it blew the fuse, I replaced the fuse and the switch
and it was working again....The next day I turned it on and all tubes came
on so after wating a couple of min I flipped the plat up to TX and I noticed
the coax relay switch did not switch... so I tried it again and again but
the relay is not working now, I pluged the relay into the wall socket and it
works fine so it is good. Not being a very good tec. I need somnem help
with this.

I checked the plug coming out of the back that the relay plugs into and I
have 110 volts from both terminals....that is puting the ground lead to the
case and checking both sides of the plug is this correct or should I only
get 110 volts from one side of this plug like the house current is ? What
should I look for in this problem ?

I do have the schmatic.

73 Wayne AA5JJ



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"AA5JJ" wrote in message
news [snip]

I checked the plug coming out of the back that the relay plugs into and I
have 110 volts from both terminals....that is puting the ground lead to
the
case and checking both sides of the plug is this correct or should I only
get 110 volts from one side of this plug like the house current is ? What
should I look for in this problem ?

If you're seeing 110v from _both_ sides to ground, with the relay unplugged,
then the problem is internal to the unit: the relay won't operate with 110v
on both terminals.

I've never worked on a Viking, but I suspect that the problem is in the
"return" path. Try these steps:

1. See if the 110v is _always_ on the terminals, or if it is switched by the
plate switch. If it's always on, then an internal contact has welded shut,
or there's a short across your new switch.
2. Check the return path where current from the relay returns into the
Viking. If it goes through an internal relay, investigate that.

I do have the schmatic.

Kirchoff is your friend: unless you're blowing a fuse, the voltage drops
will add up to 110v, so follow the chain from the supply to the switch or
relay that powers the antenna relay connector, and then to back to the AC
input. Remember that the 110v AC supply is (I hope!) isolated from ground,
and you must have a path from one side of the cord, through your control
contacts, through the antenna relay, and back to the other side of the AC
cord. If this circuit is grounded at any point inside the Viking, look for
cracked wires and abrasion faults where the wire bundle meets your new
switch.

HTH.

Bill

"AA5JJ" wrote in message
news [snip]

I checked the plug coming out of the back that the relay plugs into and I
have 110 volts from both terminals....that is puting the ground lead to
the
case and checking both sides of the plug is this correct or should I only
get 110 volts from one side of this plug like the house current is ? What
should I look for in this problem ?

If you're seeing 110v from _both_ sides to ground, with the relay unplugged,
then the problem is internal to the unit: the relay won't operate with 110v
on both terminals.

I've never worked on a Viking, but I suspect that the problem is in the
"return" path. Try these steps:

1. See if the 110v is _always_ on the terminals, or if it is switched by the
plate switch. If it's always on, then an internal contact has welded shut,
or there's a short across your new switch.
2. Check the return path where current from the relay returns into the
Viking. If it goes through an internal relay, investigate that.

I do have the schmatic.

Kirchoff is your friend: unless you're blowing a fuse, the voltage drops
will add up to 110v, so follow the chain from the supply to the switch or
relay that powers the antenna relay connector, and then to back to the AC
input. Remember that the 110v AC supply is (I hope!) isolated from ground,
and you must have a path from one side of the cord, through your control
contacts, through the antenna relay, and back to the other side of the AC
cord. If this circuit is grounded at any point inside the Viking, look for
cracked wires and abrasion faults where the wire bundle meets your new
switch.

HTH.

Bill

In article , "AA5JJ"
writes:

Ok here goes, I have a Johnson Vilike I and it was working then I was on the
air talking and it was my turn to XMIT so I flipped the Plate switch up and
fire shot out of it and it blew the fuse, I replaced the fuse and the switch
and it was working again....The next day I turned it on and all tubes came
on so after wating a couple of min I flipped the plat up to TX and I noticed
the coax relay switch did not switch

I have always worried about what would happen if the antenna relay failed to
switch when you switched to XMIT. I run a Viking II into a solid-state power
supply that fires a 24VDC antenna relay, and if that PS or the relay didn't get
the message that the Viking's finals were pumping out gobs of RF, the 1000:1
SWR could do nasty things to my final section.

Not to mention my RX, which is usually a Racla RA-17.
73, Mike K. AA1UK

Oscar loves trash, but hates Spam! Delete him to reply to me.

In article , "AA5JJ"
writes:

Ok here goes, I have a Johnson Vilike I and it was working then I was on the
air talking and it was my turn to XMIT so I flipped the Plate switch up and
fire shot out of it and it blew the fuse, I replaced the fuse and the switch
and it was working again....The next day I turned it on and all tubes came
on so after wating a couple of min I flipped the plat up to TX and I noticed
the coax relay switch did not switch

I have always worried about what would happen if the antenna relay failed to
switch when you switched to XMIT. I run a Viking II into a solid-state power
supply that fires a 24VDC antenna relay, and if that PS or the relay didn't get
the message that the Viking's finals were pumping out gobs of RF, the 1000:1
SWR could do nasty things to my final section.

Not to mention my RX, which is usually a Racla RA-17.
73, Mike K. AA1UK

Oscar loves trash, but hates Spam! Delete him to reply to me.