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#1
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I have an SX-71 in which I replaced the paper and lytic caps and still
have some stray voltage on the chassis. You can get a pretty good shock under the right conditions. It was there before the recap and I thought my resto work would have cured it. What could be causing this? Also notice this on an older SX-16 that hasn't been recapped yet. Dan |
#2
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Many radios have a pair of capacitors that go from each side of the
power line to the chassis. They are put there to prevent RF from coming into/out of the power cord. In the best of conditions, they put the chassis at 1/2 the power line voltage above ground. That is low enough not to hurt you, but high enough to make the chassis feel "buzzy" when you slide a finger across the metal. Add a 3 terminal power plug/cord to the radio, and connect the green wire directly to the chassis, and the tingle will go away. -Chuck Harris geojunkie wrote: I have an SX-71 in which I replaced the paper and lytic caps and still have some stray voltage on the chassis. You can get a pretty good shock under the right conditions. It was there before the recap and I thought my resto work would have cured it. What could be causing this? Also notice this on an older SX-16 that hasn't been recapped yet. Dan |
#3
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I'll confirm the other post. Looks like C60, a .01 600v cap is from one
side of a.c. to ground. I'd certainly suspect it being leaky. If you're going to replace it, why not use a .01 at 1KV disk, instead. Good luck with it... doesn't sound like too much of a problem. I'd recomend that you add a 3-conductor line cord, too. It doesn't detract from the looks and its a heck of a lot safer!!! de K3HVG geojunkie wrote: I have an SX-71 in which I replaced the paper and lytic caps and still have some stray voltage on the chassis. You can get a pretty good shock under the right conditions. It was there before the recap and I thought my resto work would have cured it. What could be causing this? Also notice this on an older SX-16 that hasn't been recapped yet. Dan |
#4
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....or take those caps out and install a modern line filter somewhere outside of
the chassis. Also, if you do install a third ground wire (which I DO recommend), you won't be able to power the radio on a circuit that is protected with a GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter). It'll pretty much pop the GFI every time. Barry - N4BUQ |
#5
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![]() "N4BUQ" wrote in message ... ...or take those caps out and install a modern line filter somewhere outside of the chassis. Also, if you do install a third ground wire (which I DO recommend), you won't be able to power the radio on a circuit that is protected with a GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter). It'll pretty much pop the GFI every time. Barry - N4BUQ You are kidding, right? If there is that much leakage current, then the problem should fixed before adding the three wire line cord. There is no reason to pop a GFI. Also, the maximum value for the bypass cap, which should be UL rated, is about .015 mfd. Pete |
#6
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![]() "N4BUQ" wrote in message ... ...or take those caps out and install a modern line filter somewhere outside of the chassis. Also, if you do install a third ground wire (which I DO recommend), you won't be able to power the radio on a circuit that is protected with a GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter). It'll pretty much pop the GFI every time. Barry - N4BUQ I don't see why it will pop the GFI unless the line bypass cap is unreasonably large or something is leaking current. I've done the 3 wire cord modification to a few radios and most of my test equipment, and I haven't had that problem. Frank Dresser |
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