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#1
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What's a good (the best?) way to removal corrosion from an old (1950s)
aluminum chassis? |
#2
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Scotch bright pads
"Paul" wrote in message ... What's a good (the best?) way to removal corrosion from an old (1950s) aluminum chassis? |
#3
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Scotch bright pads will leave scratch marks. I used automotive aluminum
wheel polish by Eagle One and a lot of elbow grease. Also used Never Dull with an equal amount of elbow grease. From: "Dave Stadt" Organization: SBC http://yahoo.sbc.com Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 23:44:09 GMT Subject: Aluminum Corrosion Removal Techniques Scotch bright pads "Paul" wrote in message What's a good (the best?) way to removal corrosion from an old (1950s) aluminum chassis? |
#4
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![]() "Jim" wrote in message ... Scotch bright pads will leave scratch marks. I used automotive aluminum wheel polish by Eagle One and a lot of elbow grease. Also used Never Dull with an equal amount of elbow grease. That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of the corrosion. From: "Dave Stadt" Organization: SBC http://yahoo.sbc.com Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 23:44:09 GMT Subject: Aluminum Corrosion Removal Techniques Scotch bright pads "Paul" wrote in message What's a good (the best?) way to removal corrosion from an old (1950s) aluminum chassis? |
#5
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On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 04:52:58 UTC, "Dave Stadt"
wrote: "Jim" wrote in message ... Scotch bright pads will leave scratch marks. I used automotive aluminum wheel polish by Eagle One and a lot of elbow grease. Also used Never Dull with an equal amount of elbow grease. That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of the corrosion. Which is what? Air? wheel polish should work just fine. de ah6gi/4 |
#6
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No Spam wrote:
That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of the corrosion. Which is what? Air? wheel polish should work just fine. de ah6gi/4 Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly forms a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic. Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will really eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need to remove or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the aluminum. -Chuck Harris |
#7
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![]() "Chuck Harris" wrote in message ... No Spam wrote: That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of the corrosion. Which is what? Air? wheel polish should work just fine. de ah6gi/4 Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly forms a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic. Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will really eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need to remove or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the aluminum. -Chuck Harris Yes. This is what "anodizing" does. It grows a thick oxide layer. It is the most reactive metal, if I recall correctly. In air, Aluminum instantly oxidizes at the surface, but this obviously doesn't completely protect it. However, I always thought that with time the oxide grows thicker and unevenly causing the pitting. Perhaps there are other mechanisms. Sulfur in the air can slowly vulcanize rubber. Perhaps other oxidizers attack the aluminum as well... There is also a popular aircraft aluminum polish. Don't recall the name. -- Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's. |
#8
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Here's are some other ideas from the metalworking newsgroup:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...readm=20010319 151227.24203.00002372%40ng-fx1.aol.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dflitz%2Balu minum%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26selm%3D20010319151227.24 203.00002372%2540ng-fx1.aol.com%26rnum%3D1 But my favorite is Flitz http://www.flitz.com/ -dave "Steve Nosko" wrote in message ... "Chuck Harris" wrote in message ... No Spam wrote: That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of the corrosion. Which is what? Air? wheel polish should work just fine. de ah6gi/4 Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly forms a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic. Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will really eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need to remove or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the aluminum. -Chuck Harris Yes. This is what "anodizing" does. It grows a thick oxide layer. It is the most reactive metal, if I recall correctly. In air, Aluminum instantly oxidizes at the surface, but this obviously doesn't completely protect it. However, I always thought that with time the oxide grows thicker and unevenly causing the pitting. Perhaps there are other mechanisms. Sulfur in the air can slowly vulcanize rubber. Perhaps other oxidizers attack the aluminum as well... There is also a popular aircraft aluminum polish. Don't recall the name. -- Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's. |
#9
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"David" wrote in
: Here's are some other ideas from the metalworking newsgroup: http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...-8&threadm=200 10319 151227.24203.00002372%40ng-fx1.aol.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dflitz% 2Balu minum%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26selm%3D200103191512 27.24 203.00002372%2540ng-fx1.aol.com%26rnum%3D1 But my favorite is Flitz http://www.flitz.com/ -dave "Steve Nosko" wrote in message ... "Chuck Harris" wrote in message ... No Spam wrote: That will remove the evidence of corroson but will not remove the cause of the corrosion. Which is what? Air? wheel polish should work just fine. de ah6gi/4 Nah, aluminum is self protecting from air. It almost instantly forms a layer of aluminum oxide, which is a sort of glass/ceramic. Any corrosion you have on an aluminum device is due to a reaction with an acid, base or salt. Many common houshold cleaners will really eat up aluminum. So, if your aluminum is corroded, you need to remove or neutralize whatever it was that was corroding the aluminum. -Chuck Harris Yes. This is what "anodizing" does. It grows a thick oxide layer. It is the most reactive metal, if I recall correctly. Not exactly, but close. Magnesium is at the top of the list when discussing corrosion. In air, Aluminum instantly oxidizes at the surface, but this obviously doesn't completely protect it. This is true primarily for pure aluminum. If you see raw sheet metal stock with an Alcad marking on it, it is aluminum alloy with a thin plating of pure aluminum for protection. However, I always thought that with time the oxide grows thicker and unevenly causing the pitting. Since most aluminum products are alloys, there is a strong possibility for galvanic corrosion any time it is not protected. Even common tap water, with its mineral content, will aid the corrosion process. Google "galvanic series" for more info. Here's a link to one table: http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/galv_series.htm Perhaps there are other mechanisms. Sulfur in the air can slowly vulcanize rubber. Perhaps other oxidizers attack the aluminum as well... As stated above, most aluminum corrosion is galvanic in nature. |
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