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#1
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As with most boatanchors:
bama.sbc.edu and it's mirror I went to that web site but the viewer requires an 8 mB download. Ugh. Pat |
#2
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K3HVG wrote in message ...
Pat, when you get the schematic, check your rig and see if its an early Valiant I, or not. An early Valiant will have wirewounds with slider taps instead of the 2 side mounted pots for mod bias, etc. If yours has the ww resistors, I've got the early schematics... somewhere here... BAMA doesn't have that particular one. de K3HVG Mine has the pots so it is a later version. I am about ready to go in and replace the old electrolytic capacitors today. Should the .1 400v and .5 400v paper caps go also? If so, replace them with what ? I am planning to use 1n5407 diodes and bypass the rectifier tubes(but leave the filaments on for 'glow' appeal). I must say, this Valiant is a work of art. Such beautiful components. It's a shame to see them relegated to the dust heap. Pat W |
#3
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A agree with the post about not using solid state rectifiers. I use a
pair of 3B28s instead of "Old Sparkey" (the 866s). I do, however, use a pair of 1N4007's in the neg bias rectifier circuit. Regarding the paper caps, I change them all out, en masse. While you have your unit out of the case, please check the two meter shunts (plate and mod current). These nichrome shunts are very prone to be off by quite a bit. You can rebuild the shunt (there's usually enough length, either way. I've taken to using fixed resistors instead of the wire jobs and it seems to work OK. Finally, consider adding an additional fuse to individually protect the 2 power transformers. PatW wrote: Just got a Johnson Valiant and will be restoring it. It appears to be in fair condition and has the user manual. But, is missing the schematic. Any ideas on where to get a schematic for this ? |
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