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#2
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#3
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![]() Now if any one could come up with a formula that includes all of these factors then we would be able to answer your question. There is no formula. However we can say this. The best mobile antenna is a thick stiff nine foot whip that is silver coated and mounted on top of the roof with multiple radial grounding points. No one is going to use the antenna above in the real word, so one might draw the conclusion that in the real world we might substitute a 102" stainless whip for the best real world performance. WRONG. The 102" is made of stainless. Stainless has only 3% the conductivity of copper. This alone will stop the 102" stainless from being the top performer. Subtract also the fact that the 102" stainless bends over in the wind and is also a relatively thin antenna. So what is the best choice? It appears that for a realistic antenna, it is a mildly loaded top or center loaded antenna made of thick conductive materials. There are a few of these ugly looking antennas around. They do work marginally better than the 102" stainless and have the benefit of being shorter. These antennas can get as short as five foot and still equal or outperform the 102" stainless. A common choice that was overlooked was the 102" whip made out of fiberglass with copper wire embedded in it. Due to the lower velocity factor (how fast radio frequency energy travels though a substance), the fiberglass version of the 102" whip can actually be 6" or so shorter than its stainless counterpart. Due to the shorter length and thicker outer material, it's also more rigid (stays straighter when the vehicle is in motion). In practical terms, it doesn't need a spring to achieve resonance in the CB band, and can usually be shortened an additional 4" or more depending on where in the spectum the operator most often operates. For example, the fiberglass whip (Radio Shack part number 21-905) is usually 2 to 6 inches shorter than the stainless version to begin with. It doesn't need a spring. And when shooting for resonance (lowest SWR with highest field strength) on Channel 40, it can usually be shortened an additional 4 inches. If you shorten it from the bottom instead of the top, the rigidity is improved. So, the end product very often ends up a full foot shorter than the 108" stainless whip and spring combination as well as being cheaper because there's no need to pay for a spring. Not having a spring makes the setup look nicer and stay straighter too. Over the years I've taken a number of the 21-905 whips, shortened them 4 inches or so from the bottom, and coated them with a thin coat of Varathane to prevent splintering of the fiberglass over time. The end result looks great, lasts until it gets smacked low enough and hard enough to break it, and per- forms very, very well. To outperform it, an antenna would have to be a closer match to 50 ohms resistive and have a lower angle of radiation. Few are capable of that--and none are cheaper or easier to obtain. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- -=[Bill Eitner]=- http://www.cbtricks.com/~kd6tas ------------------------------------------------------------------- |
#4
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On 25 Oct 2003 02:02:24 +0100, "(Scott Unit 69)"
wrote: wrote: ************************************* All things being equal: 1.Top loaded antennas perform marginally better than base loaded 2.Taller antennas (less loading coil) perform better than shorter 3. Thicker antennas perform marginally better than thinner. 4. More conductive antenna stock makes a marginal difference over less conductive antenna stock. 5. A higher antenna mount works better than a lower mount. 6. A free and clear antenna mount works better than an obstructed one. 7. A more substantial RF ground works better than a minimal ground. 8. A vertical antenna performs better than a diagonal (windblown). Have you ever opened a book? Have you ever made sense? All the above can be gained by a many books. One of those books was the book of common sense. Do you have that book? |
#5
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![]() "Bill Eitner" wrote in message ... Now if any one could come up with a formula that includes all of these factors then we would be able to answer your question. There is no formula. However we can say this. The best mobile antenna is a thick stiff nine foot whip that is silver coated and mounted on top of the roof with multiple radial grounding points. No one is going to use the antenna above in the real word, so one might draw the conclusion that in the real world we might substitute a 102" stainless whip for the best real world performance. WRONG. The 102" is made of stainless. Stainless has only 3% the conductivity of copper. This alone will stop the 102" stainless from being the top performer. Subtract also the fact that the 102" stainless bends over in the wind and is also a relatively thin antenna. So what is the best choice? It appears that for a realistic antenna, it is a mildly loaded top or center loaded antenna made of thick conductive materials. There are a few of these ugly looking antennas around. They do work marginally better than the 102" stainless and have the benefit of being shorter. These antennas can get as short as five foot and still equal or outperform the 102" stainless. A common choice that was overlooked was the 102" whip made out of fiberglass with copper wire embedded in it. Due to the lower velocity factor (how fast radio frequency energy travels though a substance), the fiberglass version of the 102" whip can actually be 6" or so shorter than its stainless counterpart. Due to the shorter length and thicker outer material, it's also more rigid (stays straighter when the vehicle is in motion). In practical terms, it doesn't need a spring to achieve resonance in the CB band, and can usually be shortened an additional 4" or more depending on where in the spectum the operator most often operates. For example, the fiberglass whip (Radio Shack part number 21-905) is usually 2 to 6 inches shorter than the stainless version to begin with. It doesn't need a spring. And when shooting for resonance (lowest SWR with highest field strength) on Channel 40, it can usually be shortened an additional 4 inches. If you shorten it from the bottom instead of the top, the rigidity is improved. So, the end product very often ends up a full foot shorter than the 108" stainless whip and spring combination as well as being cheaper because there's no need to pay for a spring. Not having a spring makes the setup look nicer and stay straighter too. Over the years I've taken a number of the 21-905 whips, shortened them 4 inches or so from the bottom, and coated them with a thin coat of Varathane to prevent splintering of the fiberglass over time. The end result looks great, lasts until it gets smacked low enough and hard enough to break it, and per- forms very, very well. To outperform it, an antenna would have to be a closer match to 50 ohms resistive and have a lower angle of radiation. Few are capable of that--and none are cheaper or easier to obtain. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- -=[Bill Eitner]=- http://www.cbtricks.com/~kd6tas ------------------------------------------------------------------- DON NOT put more than about 100 watts into one of those RS fiberglass whips! They work well at low power...........but are not made for high power applications. Train |
#6
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*************************************
All things being equal: 1.Top loaded antennas perform marginally better than base loaded 2.Taller antennas (less loading coil) perform better than shorter 3. Thicker antennas perform marginally better than thinner. 4. More conductive antenna stock makes a marginal difference over less conductive antenna stock. 5. A higher antenna mount works better than a lower mount. 6. A free and clear antenna mount works better than an obstructed one. 7. A more substantial RF ground works better than a minimal ground. This is true but I have seen installations that were actually OVERGROUNDED and hurt performance. 8. A vertical antenna performs better than a diagonal (windblown). Number 5, 6, & 8 are the most important factors in the performance of an antenna. Now if any one could come up with a formula that includes all of these factors then we would be able to answer your question. There is no formula. However we can say this. The best mobile antenna is a thick stiff nine foot whip that is silver coated and mounted on top of the roof with multiple radial grounding points. No one is going to use the antenna above in the real word, so one might draw the conclusion that in the real world we might substitute a 102" stainless whip for the best real world performance. WRONG. The 102" is made of stainless. Stainless has only 3% the conductivity of copper. This alone will stop the 102" stainless from being the top performer. Subtract also the fact that the 102" stainless bends over in the wind and is also a relatively thin antenna. So what is the best choice? It appears that for a realistic antenna, it is a mildly loaded top or center loaded antenna made of thick conductive materials. There are a few of these ugly looking antennas around. They do work marginally better than the 102" stainless and have the benefit of being shorter. These antennas can get as short as five foot and still equal or outperform the 102" stainless. Percent conductivity of materials, based on copper being the standard of 100% Aluminum 65% Brass 28% Chrome 74% Gold 71% Iron 17% Silver 106% Steel 10% Stainless 3% ************************************** So.....Why has there not been a SS 102 with a heavy silver plate? K-40 was using silver plating in their load coils in the 70's and that hasn't changed as far as I know. Train |
#7
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On Sat, 25 Oct 2003 11:54:32 GMT, "Train" wrote:
************************************* All things being equal: 1.Top loaded antennas perform marginally better than base loaded 2.Taller antennas (less loading coil) perform better than shorter 3. Thicker antennas perform marginally better than thinner. 4. More conductive antenna stock makes a marginal difference over less conductive antenna stock. 5. A higher antenna mount works better than a lower mount. 6. A free and clear antenna mount works better than an obstructed one. 7. A more substantial RF ground works better than a minimal ground. This is true but I have seen installations that were actually OVERGROUNDED and hurt performance. How are why would that occur? 8. A vertical antenna performs better than a diagonal (windblown). Number 5, 6, & 8 are the most important factors in the performance of an antenna. Now if any one could come up with a formula that includes all of these factors then we would be able to answer your question. There is no formula. However we can say this. The best mobile antenna is a thick stiff nine foot whip that is silver coated and mounted on top of the roof with multiple radial grounding points. No one is going to use the antenna above in the real word, so one might draw the conclusion that in the real world we might substitute a 102" stainless whip for the best real world performance. WRONG. The 102" is made of stainless. Stainless has only 3% the conductivity of copper. This alone will stop the 102" stainless from being the top performer. Subtract also the fact that the 102" stainless bends over in the wind and is also a relatively thin antenna. So what is the best choice? It appears that for a realistic antenna, it is a mildly loaded top or center loaded antenna made of thick conductive materials. There are a few of these ugly looking antennas around. They do work marginally better than the 102" stainless and have the benefit of being shorter. These antennas can get as short as five foot and still equal or outperform the 102" stainless. Percent conductivity of materials, based on copper being the standard of 100% Aluminum 65% Brass 28% Chrome 74% Gold 71% Iron 17% Silver 106% Steel 10% Stainless 3% ************************************** So.....Why has there not been a SS 102 with a heavy silver plate? K-40 was using silver plating in their load coils in the 70's and that hasn't changed as far as I know. Train Just cover the S/S whip with copper braid. Copper is almost as good as silver. |
#8
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How can you shorten a fiberglass whip from the bottom??? I am interested in
trying it |
#9
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snip
So.....Why has there not been a SS 102 with a heavy silver plate? K-40 was using silver plating in their load coils in the 70's and that hasn't changed as far as I know. Train Just cover the S/S whip with copper braid. Copper is almost as good as silver. Yes, and when you do this nothing shorter will beat it. |
#10
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![]() tnom, Except to 'stir the pot' why would you want to drag out this collection of out dated misconcepts? Mixing a little bit of truth with a lot of old 'wive's tales' is a sure way to spread confusion and mis-information. In that respect you're doing a fine job... 'Doc |
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