Here's a question that I'm a bit unsure about. I could use a 9 foot
piece of wire for a counterpoise that would be resident on 27.000 MHz.
The problem is, I don't know where to connect this wire to ON the
antenna. I haven't gotten the antenna yet, but perhaps some of you
already have experience with the Imax 2000.

Also, if I can't use the counterpoise, should I just plan on planting
a steel rod into the ground with a random length of wire attached to
the steel rod and the antenna, in order to ground it?

Thanks,
Buther Boy

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Hi, never use resonant groundplanes causes more problems than most people realise. Grounding, using 4 x 8' ground rods, if possible, spaced about a metre apart helps soak up a lot of noise, try getting the antenna way above all the houshold electrical noise. Also the A99 groundplane kit works well, giving a noticeable improvment on RTX. To fit on the I-Max requires some machine work - see previous post. In design, the I-Max is very similar to the Golden Penetrator from bygone years, being a 6/8 wl and a very good antenna as a result.

Well, the Imax 2000 is a 5/8 wave, which I think is what you are
referring to. Any way, oh how I wish I was just a few years younger
and able to take advantage of the skip craze of the 90's. From what
I've heard on the forums, there was plenty of it going around. I did
get a chance or two with a Shakespeare big stick, but I think that may
have been at the tail end of the skip craze.

Buther Boy



On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 18:40:13 +0000, Gerry
wrote:


Hi, never use resonant groundplanes causes more problems than most
people realise. Grounding, using 4 x 8' ground rods, if possible,
spaced about a metre apart helps soak up a lot of noise, try getting
the antenna way above all the houshold electrical noise. Also the A99
groundplane kit works well, giving a noticeable improvment on RTX. To
fit on the I-Max requires some machine work - see previous post. In
design, the I-Max is very similar to the Golden Penetrator from bygone
years, being a 6/8 wl and a very good antenna as a result.

Buther Boy Wrote:
Here's a question that I'm a bit unsure about. I could use a 9 foot
piece of wire for a counterpoise that would be resident on 27.000 MHz.
The problem is, I don't know where to connect this wire to ON the
antenna. I haven't gotten the antenna yet, but perhaps some of you
already have experience with the Imax 2000.

Also, if I can't use the counterpoise, should I just plan on planting
a steel rod into the ground with a random length of wire attached to
the steel rod and the antenna, in order to ground it?

Thanks,
Buther Boy

--
Remove the word Spam from my e-mail to contact me...
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Your post pumps me up about my antenna, which just arrived today.
Thanks Gerry!


On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 18:40:13 +0000, Gerry
wrote:


Hi, never use resonant groundplanes causes more problems than most
people realise. Grounding, using 4 x 8' ground rods, if possible,
spaced about a metre apart helps soak up a lot of noise, try getting
the antenna way above all the houshold electrical noise. Also the A99
groundplane kit works well, giving a noticeable improvment on RTX. To
fit on the I-Max requires some machine work - see previous post. In
design, the I-Max is very similar to the Golden Penetrator from bygone
years, being a 6/8 wl and a very good antenna as a result.

Buther Boy Wrote:
Here's a question that I'm a bit unsure about. I could use a 9 foot
piece of wire for a counterpoise that would be resident on 27.000 MHz.
The problem is, I don't know where to connect this wire to ON the
antenna. I haven't gotten the antenna yet, but perhaps some of you
already have experience with the Imax 2000.

Also, if I can't use the counterpoise, should I just plan on planting
a steel rod into the ground with a random length of wire attached to
the steel rod and the antenna, in order to ground it?

Thanks,
Buther Boy

--
Remove the word Spam from my e-mail to contact me...
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~

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Hi all, based on its length the I-Max is close enough to be regarded as a .64wl NOT a 6/8wl as I previously stated, the I-Max 2000 will have a small dbd gain advantage over a true 5/8wl antenna, but not so much that the human eye or ear could discern the difference.
Grounding ANY vertical is desireable, mainly to reduce static which can be a real pain at times. It is good practise to use large diameter ground wire, and keep it as short as possible, running it to a COMMON connection in the shack, to which all RF equipment should be connected. You should be careful that the length of ground wire is NOT RESONANT at the frequency of operation, otherwise it will be ineffective, and may contribute to RF entering the shack. Also, keeping the antenna as far away from the shack as possible is a good idea, otherwise RF may enter in even with good grounding. Sometimes it may prove necessary to use ferrite rings or clip-ons to cool a hot mic. It's wise to use a LOW PASS FILTER such as the Kenwood LF-30A, and in addition, the use of a LINE ISOLATER (or two) such as Radio Works model T4 Plus, both exiting the rig and at the base of the antenna. This helps eliminate RF returning into the shack via the coax shield. It is wise to watch the VSWR when using Line Isolators as high levels can cause them to run kinda hot, but, at CB output levels it might not be a problem!
OK all, I hope all this is of some help to you, I'll be offline for some time, so don't expect a come back to respond to any aspect of this anyway soon.
Good luck and 73.

Hi again, just a quick comment on ground rods.
I use six eight foot copper ground rods, spaced about one metre apart, and what I neglected to say previously, linked together with earth wire. In formation they describe a square. A simple test to establish if you have a good earth - get a PP3 9 volt battery and a suitable bulb, check it's working first, then connect the +v wire to the positive battery terminal the touch the negative lead to your earth rod(s), if the bulb glows brightly, the earth is good, if not, seek experienced assistance.
Too old to DX BB? Heck I was talking to a gentleman recently aged ninenty nine, still hale and hearty! Build yourself a three element circular polarised beam antenna, you can purchase plans for that as CB City International, I think it's still owned by a guy called Lou Franklin in Phoenix Arizona. Great little beam, I built one way back about 1981, it holds the skip like nothing you've ever used before. Build the beam and cut the phasing harness, this makes one polarisation operate ninenty degrees out of phase and generates the circular transmission. It virtually eliminates multi-path fading as DX polarisation being random shifts between vertical and horizontal to something in between, this beam catches it all. Highly recommended for DX!
Good DX es 73.