I have a KDK FM-2033 mobile rig that I just got. I need to know how to set
the PL tone. Upon opening the case I can see the tone board. There is a pot
next to it labeled "tone" as well as a pot on the underside of the tone
board itself.
Which pot do I use?
How do I tell what the current frequency _is?_

I hope someone can help me...
-Greg Courville

Greg,

I owned an FM-2036 (I think?). That would be from the early 1990's, right?

Almost always, the PL tone frequency is set by a switch (not an
adjustable control). The one you are looking at might be a setting for
how loud it transmits the tone, not what frequency it's at.

Look for a set of dipswitches, probably a 4-position one, might be 6- or
8-position.

All the best, and 73,
Dave KZ1O

Greg Courville wrote:

I have a KDK FM-2033 mobile rig that I just got. I need to know how to set
the PL tone. Upon opening the case I can see the tone board. There is a pot
next to it labeled "tone" as well as a pot on the underside of the tone
board itself.
Which pot do I use?
How do I tell what the current frequency _is?_

I hope someone can help me...
-Greg Courville



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M321I58DNU 09/06/2003

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Greg,

I owned an FM-2036 (I think?). That would be from the early 1990's, right?

Almost always, the PL tone frequency is set by a switch (not an
adjustable control). The one you are looking at might be a setting for
how loud it transmits the tone, not what frequency it's at.

Look for a set of dipswitches, probably a 4-position one, might be 6- or
8-position.

All the best, and 73,
Dave KZ1O

Greg Courville wrote:

I have a KDK FM-2033 mobile rig that I just got. I need to know how to set
the PL tone. Upon opening the case I can see the tone board. There is a pot
next to it labeled "tone" as well as a pot on the underside of the tone
board itself.
Which pot do I use?
How do I tell what the current frequency _is?_

I hope someone can help me...
-Greg Courville



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This file is PureMail protected. To reply to the sender,
you MUST include this in the subject line:

M321I58DNU 09/06/2003

(without that string in the subject, your
message will be deleted, unread)

Somehow I just think that with such low level tones, and wires going to
switches
and resistors, you will have a tough time getting the accuracy required of
the tones to
be reliable.
But, I suppose everything is possible.
Let me know if you have any specific questions on the rig. I have one as
well.
.....Dave
"Brenda Ann" wrote in message
...

"Greg Courville" wrote in message
...
Well, I paid $50 for the radio itself. I'm running on a non-existent
budget
here and would prefer to build, rather than buy, what I need.
My concern with running the pot lines to an external box is the
possibility
of interference.
Any insight?

-Greg
Greg,

I suspect that you should not have any problem with an external switching
setup if you use shielded 600 ohm mic cable for your interconnect, and
ground both ends of the shield. This should be no problem as long as the
low end of the original pot is at chassis ground. If this is the case,
run
ground to shield, red to high end and white to wiper, and you can use a 12
position rotary switch and pots in an aluminum project box. Make sure you
ground the project box to the shield, this will keep out RF. If you're
clever, you could use a series of resistors on the switch (you want a
NON-Shorting switch) with one end at ground and the other at the high end,
and use the switch wiper like a pot wiper...

Somehow I just think that with such low level tones, and wires going to
switches
and resistors, you will have a tough time getting the accuracy required of
the tones to
be reliable.
But, I suppose everything is possible.
Let me know if you have any specific questions on the rig. I have one as
well.
.....Dave
"Brenda Ann" wrote in message
...

"Greg Courville" wrote in message
...
Well, I paid $50 for the radio itself. I'm running on a non-existent
budget
here and would prefer to build, rather than buy, what I need.
My concern with running the pot lines to an external box is the
possibility
of interference.
Any insight?

-Greg
Greg,

I suspect that you should not have any problem with an external switching
setup if you use shielded 600 ohm mic cable for your interconnect, and
ground both ends of the shield. This should be no problem as long as the
low end of the original pot is at chassis ground. If this is the case,
run
ground to shield, red to high end and white to wiper, and you can use a 12
position rotary switch and pots in an aluminum project box. Make sure you
ground the project box to the shield, this will keep out RF. If you're
clever, you could use a series of resistors on the switch (you want a
NON-Shorting switch) with one end at ground and the other at the high end,
and use the switch wiper like a pot wiper...