(K5DH) wrote in message ...
I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era,
the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of
glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve
that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm
unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and
I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying
to force them.

73,
Dean K5DH

Gday Dean,
dont get too upset about the "screwdriver expert" jibe - we have to
rely on the printed word in front of us and take that at face value.
Its been a good subject, thank you for kicking it off, and there has
been lots of useful ideas to try, so just accept that. If we were face
to face or on air, it wouldnt be a problem but using this particular
medium misunderstandings and errors do occur.

And I am sure you will agree that as a working tech you MUST have seen
the results of inexpert slug twiddling - sort of like old British
motorbikes whose ten previous owners only had a 12" shifting spanner
as their major (or only) tool....

73 de VK3BFA Andrew

Scott Schrader wrote in news:3F4E39DD.A59629F7
@visi.com:

try alcohol first for solvent, it should not mangle coil forms. if that
doesn't work, a paintbrush with a little bit of acetone is the next step
for solvent.


What I did for those stubborn slugs was to heat them with the tip of my
weller. The heat will soften the paint/sealant and not damage the coil
form.

r

Irv Finkleman wrote:

K5DH wrote:

I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era,
the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of
glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve
that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm
unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and
I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying
to force them.

73,
Dean K5DH

Usually a drop of solvent will loosen them. If the coil
forms are plastic it might be a problem, but you can test the
solvent on the end of the form first.
--
--------------------------------------
Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001
Beating it with diet and exercise!
297/215/210 (to be revised lower)
58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!)
--------------------------------------
Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/
Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/
Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at
http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/
--------------------
Irv Finkleman,
Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

-- If it's a "new economy," why do they want my obsolete old money?



--
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from
magic."

Arthur C. Clarke (1917 - ), "Technology and the Future"

Scott Schrader wrote in news:3F4E39DD.A59629F7
@visi.com:

try alcohol first for solvent, it should not mangle coil forms. if that
doesn't work, a paintbrush with a little bit of acetone is the next step
for solvent.


What I did for those stubborn slugs was to heat them with the tip of my
weller. The heat will soften the paint/sealant and not damage the coil
form.

r

Irv Finkleman wrote:

K5DH wrote:

I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era,
the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of
glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve
that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm
unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and
I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying
to force them.

73,
Dean K5DH

Usually a drop of solvent will loosen them. If the coil
forms are plastic it might be a problem, but you can test the
solvent on the end of the form first.
--
--------------------------------------
Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001
Beating it with diet and exercise!
297/215/210 (to be revised lower)
58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!)
--------------------------------------
Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/
Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/
Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at
http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/
--------------------
Irv Finkleman,
Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

-- If it's a "new economy," why do they want my obsolete old money?



--
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from
magic."

Arthur C. Clarke (1917 - ), "Technology and the Future"

On Fri, 29 Aug 2003 13:00:12 -0500, Scott Schrader
wrote:

that was semi-official repair policy for apple II computers in the
minnesota education system... turn it off, lift it up a foot or two, and
flat-foot slam it back on the table. oxidation and heat popping on the
tin-socketed chips, you understand, and the machine was well enough
built so you could get away with it.

But the skill is in where and how hard to hit it ;-)

Worked with a piece of production equipment I dealt with, with a relay
which stuck occasionally, no matter how many times it was replaced
(Note: never buy serial # 0001 of anything).

It was far simpler to kick it in just the right spot.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

On Fri, 29 Aug 2003 13:00:12 -0500, Scott Schrader
wrote:

that was semi-official repair policy for apple II computers in the
minnesota education system... turn it off, lift it up a foot or two, and
flat-foot slam it back on the table. oxidation and heat popping on the
tin-socketed chips, you understand, and the machine was well enough
built so you could get away with it.

But the skill is in where and how hard to hit it ;-)

Worked with a piece of production equipment I dealt with, with a relay
which stuck occasionally, no matter how many times it was replaced
(Note: never buy serial # 0001 of anything).

It was far simpler to kick it in just the right spot.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom