On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 07:44:44 -0700, Dick
wrote:

That's probably a little high for current drain. I would say it is
more typically 11 A. My IC-746 running 100-watts on 2-meters draws
only 18 A. Yes, I know you said, "up to."

My 50 W Yaesu rig specs 12 or 13 A.

I rounded up. No harm in a little safety factor, beside wire or outlet
ratings are always in multiples of 5 A.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Hi Andy,

You will find that a separate, fused wire run to the vehicle battery is
recommended by most sources (mfg., mags., etc.,). And indeed, it IS a
good idea. Having said that, I've been running a 50 W rig (IC-2720H)
from the rear seat accessory jack in my 2000 Saturn Wagon for the past
year. Ran a single band 2M rig before that. Never had a problem with
the rig or interferring with the Saturn's "brain". I would caution,
however, against using under gauge wire. I'm using the rigs supplied
power cord (I believe it's #12 stranded) for the run from the jack to
the wheel well in the trunk where the rig is mounted. The control head
is mounted on the dashboard. The rig feeds a MFJ dual-band on-glass
antenna on the drivers side rear window, so the RF leads are away from
the power leads and away from the front of the vehicle.

The draw for the rig is about 8 amps on hi power. That's with an
antenna that's close to a 1:1 match. If it gets too far out of tune and
your SWR's go up, the current drain will go up as well. So, set up the
system properly, use wire at least as heavy as the lead to the accessory
jack, and give it a try. Worst case...just run low power.

HTH,
Paul (N0KIA)

VHFRadioBuff wrote:
Hello all. My car has a seperate "accessory" port from the standard cigarette
lighter. My understanding is that this port is actually rated for more amps
than the cigarette lighter and might actually be ok to power my 50 watt 2m
mobile if I were to add a cigarette lighter plug to the end of it.

Can anyone comment on this? Any experience using these accessory ports to power
50 watt radios? The car in question is a 2000 Mercury Sable.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73! de Andy KC2SSB - WPYI880 (GMRS)
Beachwood, NJ USA! Grid FM29vw
http://vhfradiobuff.tripod.com

Hi Andy,

You will find that a separate, fused wire run to the vehicle battery is
recommended by most sources (mfg., mags., etc.,). And indeed, it IS a
good idea. Having said that, I've been running a 50 W rig (IC-2720H)
from the rear seat accessory jack in my 2000 Saturn Wagon for the past
year. Ran a single band 2M rig before that. Never had a problem with
the rig or interferring with the Saturn's "brain". I would caution,
however, against using under gauge wire. I'm using the rigs supplied
power cord (I believe it's #12 stranded) for the run from the jack to
the wheel well in the trunk where the rig is mounted. The control head
is mounted on the dashboard. The rig feeds a MFJ dual-band on-glass
antenna on the drivers side rear window, so the RF leads are away from
the power leads and away from the front of the vehicle.

The draw for the rig is about 8 amps on hi power. That's with an
antenna that's close to a 1:1 match. If it gets too far out of tune and
your SWR's go up, the current drain will go up as well. So, set up the
system properly, use wire at least as heavy as the lead to the accessory
jack, and give it a try. Worst case...just run low power.

HTH,
Paul (N0KIA)

VHFRadioBuff wrote:
Hello all. My car has a seperate "accessory" port from the standard cigarette
lighter. My understanding is that this port is actually rated for more amps
than the cigarette lighter and might actually be ok to power my 50 watt 2m
mobile if I were to add a cigarette lighter plug to the end of it.

Can anyone comment on this? Any experience using these accessory ports to power
50 watt radios? The car in question is a 2000 Mercury Sable.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73! de Andy KC2SSB - WPYI880 (GMRS)
Beachwood, NJ USA! Grid FM29vw
http://vhfradiobuff.tripod.com

"VHFRadioBuff" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the replies. I'm really trying avoid hooking the radio up to
the
battery. I've got it hooked up to the battery in my other car right now,
but
will be switching over to the Sable soon. I'll have to check the owner's
manual
to see if it says what the amp rating is for the Sable.


Why are you trying to avoid hooking direct to the battery? It is generally
the best solution for a mobile rig. This minimizes the chance of things
like alternator whine on the incoming or outgoing signal and any other type
of interference that might be picked up by the car wiring system and
delivered to your radio.

Dee D. Flint, N8UZE

"VHFRadioBuff" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the replies. I'm really trying avoid hooking the radio up to
the
battery. I've got it hooked up to the battery in my other car right now,
but
will be switching over to the Sable soon. I'll have to check the owner's
manual
to see if it says what the amp rating is for the Sable.


Why are you trying to avoid hooking direct to the battery? It is generally
the best solution for a mobile rig. This minimizes the chance of things
like alternator whine on the incoming or outgoing signal and any other type
of interference that might be picked up by the car wiring system and
delivered to your radio.

Dee D. Flint, N8UZE

If it is indeed an accesory port as opposed to the actual dash cigarette
lighter socket, possibly checking the actual wiring to the socket might give
an idea as to the capabilities. Also, contacting the manufacturer of said
vehicle could also help.

In general, the concept of the cigarette lighter plug is not a bad idea,
PROVIDED that the wiring from the device requiring power and the wiring to
the socket itself is more than adequate. For 12v related applications, it
is too bad that this is not utlized more. Again, for those who want to
read differently into this, I am saying the concept is a good idea, but
current manufacture of such sockets are less than to be desired.

My next truck, I am going to wire quite a few of them in there, with
adequate wiring, at least for the stuff requiring 15amps or less, with the
source for those sockets coming from the battery direct.



--
Ryan, KC8PMX
FF1-FF2-MFR-(pending NREMT-B!)
--. --- -.. ... .- -. --. . .-.. ... .- .-. . ..-. .. .-. . ..-.
... --. .... - . .-. ...
"VHFRadioBuff" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the replies. I'm really trying avoid hooking the radio up to
the
battery. I've got it hooked up to the battery in my other car right now,
but
will be switching over to the Sable soon. I'll have to check the owner's
manual
to see if it says what the amp rating is for the Sable.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73! de Andy KC2SSB - WPYI880 (GMRS)
Beachwood, NJ USA! Grid FM29vw
http://vhfradiobuff.tripod.com

If it is indeed an accesory port as opposed to the actual dash cigarette
lighter socket, possibly checking the actual wiring to the socket might give
an idea as to the capabilities. Also, contacting the manufacturer of said
vehicle could also help.

In general, the concept of the cigarette lighter plug is not a bad idea,
PROVIDED that the wiring from the device requiring power and the wiring to
the socket itself is more than adequate. For 12v related applications, it
is too bad that this is not utlized more. Again, for those who want to
read differently into this, I am saying the concept is a good idea, but
current manufacture of such sockets are less than to be desired.

My next truck, I am going to wire quite a few of them in there, with
adequate wiring, at least for the stuff requiring 15amps or less, with the
source for those sockets coming from the battery direct.



--
Ryan, KC8PMX
FF1-FF2-MFR-(pending NREMT-B!)
--. --- -.. ... .- -. --. . .-.. ... .- .-. . ..-. .. .-. . ..-.
... --. .... - . .-. ...
"VHFRadioBuff" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the replies. I'm really trying avoid hooking the radio up to
the
battery. I've got it hooked up to the battery in my other car right now,
but
will be switching over to the Sable soon. I'll have to check the owner's
manual
to see if it says what the amp rating is for the Sable.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73! de Andy KC2SSB - WPYI880 (GMRS)
Beachwood, NJ USA! Grid FM29vw
http://vhfradiobuff.tripod.com

Why not wire in a bank of PowerPoles instead. Much neater and smaller
installation. I use PowerPoles on everything now.

Dick - W6CCD

On Wed, 1 Oct 2003 00:09:36 -0400, "Ryan, KC8PMX"
wrote:


My next truck, I am going to wire quite a few of them in there, with
adequate wiring, at least for the stuff requiring 15amps or less, with the
source for those sockets coming from the battery direct.

Why not wire in a bank of PowerPoles instead. Much neater and smaller
installation. I use PowerPoles on everything now.

Dick - W6CCD

On Wed, 1 Oct 2003 00:09:36 -0400, "Ryan, KC8PMX"
wrote:


My next truck, I am going to wire quite a few of them in there, with
adequate wiring, at least for the stuff requiring 15amps or less, with the
source for those sockets coming from the battery direct.

In general, the concept of the cigarette lighter plug is not a bad idea,
PROVIDED that the wiring from the device requiring power and the wiring to
the socket itself is more than adequate. For 12v related applications, it
is too bad that this is not utlized more. Again, for those who want to
read differently into this, I am saying the concept is a good idea, but
current manufacture of such sockets are less than to be desired.

Ryan-

I agree and disagree. I think it IS a bad idea. As you say, current
manufacture of such sockets is such that it makes a poor connector for the
currents involved.

While you may install sockets to meet your specifications, those installed by
auto manufacturers often are limited by a ten ampere fuse, which means they
were designed for a five ampere load. Many lighter plugs available on the
market, may be adequate for five amperes, but not much more. I recall melting
insulation on the wire to a lighter plug on a car I used to have, and the fuse
never blew. The rig I was using only ran 25 watts output, but it had a
problem!

I agree with the suggestion of Dick - W6CCD. I don't know if the Andersen
Power Pole connectors are a perfect solution, but they are the best, most
readily available mobile power connector I've come across. To test them out, I
recently switched over to West Mountain Radio's smaller "Rig Runner" outlet box
for mobile operation. They certainly are capable of greater current than a
common lighter plug and socket combination. Of course you can bypass the Rig
Runner if you only have one radio to connect. The genderless feature is one of
the things I like about the Power Poles.

After using the Power Poles for a few months, the only drawbacks I've found are
a difficulty in crimping ten guage wire, and the "roll pins" that some
recommend to keep the connector pair from sliding apart, keep falling out. Per
West Mountain's suggestion, I'm now using Super Glue to keep them from sliding
apart, but I'm still looking for a good hand-operated open-terminal crimp tool
for the ten guage connectors.

73, Fred, K4DII