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  #31   Report Post  
Old October 2nd 03, 05:55 PM
Harvey White
 
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On 02 Oct 2003 12:43:01 GMT, pamme (VHFRadioBuff)
wrote:

Many lighter plugs available on the
market, may be adequate for five amperes, but not much more. I recall
melting
insulation on the wire to a lighter plug on a car I used to have, and the
fuse
never blew. The rig I was using only ran 25 watts output, but it had a
problem!


But again, I am not asking about the CIGARETTE LIGHTER PLUG. I am asking about
the ACCESSORY port in the car, which is supposed to be used to power
"accessories", like inverters, computers, etc. I originally asked for anyone
with actual experience with using 50w FM radios and the accessory port, but I
guess I am the only ham in the world that reads this newsgroup that has wanted
to try this.

If anyone has any factual information for me, preferably actual experience,
please let me know!


The 2000 MY Saab 9.5 that I drive has a cigarette lighter and a rear
seat cigarette lighter. Since mine did not have the optional ashtrays
in it (interesting concept), it came with dummy plugs in place of the
lighter.

Total drain is limited to 240 watts for both plugs per the manual.

Your owners manual ought to tell you the limits for your car, if not,
then a good dealer should be able to. Worst case is prospecting the
fuse box to see what the fuses are. Most likely, it's paralleled with
the cigarette lighter socket.

I will have the HT powered and bypassing the cigarette lighter, but
the rear one will be running a little portable peltier junction
fridge, which takes a few amps.

Your only problem with the cigarette lighter may be that you pick up
more alternator whine than you'd like. That is one reason why people
suggest wiring directly across the battery, it serves as a big
capacitor.

Harvey


=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73! de Andy KC2SSB - WPYI880 (GMRS)
Beachwood, NJ USA! Grid FM29vw
http://vhfradiobuff.tripod.com

  #32   Report Post  
Old October 3rd 03, 12:16 AM
Warren Bowery
 
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I have a 2002 Taurus, and there is a popout cover on the accessory jack
that says "12V 10AMP." I couldn't find an exact reference to the amperage
of the fuse for this circuit, though there was a 40 amp fuse protecting the
power seat, adjustable pedals and "accessory". The lighter fuse is 20
amps.

I notice that on a lot of power supplies that have a lighter jack, the jack
is only rated for 10 amps and the manuals say that they should be used for
"accessories." The manufacturers recommend using the binding posts for
transceivers.

If you do try this, let us know how it works out since this was my plan as
well. The Yaesu FT-1500M allegedly draws 8 amps at 50 watt output.


pamme (VHFRadioBuff) wrote in
:

Hello all. My car has a seperate "accessory" port from the standard
cigarette lighter. My understanding is that this port is actually rated
for more amps than the cigarette lighter and might actually be ok to
power my 50 watt 2m mobile if I were to add a cigarette lighter plug to
the end of it.

Can anyone comment on this? Any experience using these accessory ports
to power 50 watt radios? The car in question is a 2000 Mercury Sable.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73! de Andy KC2SSB - WPYI880 (GMRS)
Beachwood, NJ USA! Grid FM29vw
http://vhfradiobuff.tripod.com

  #33   Report Post  
Old October 3rd 03, 12:16 AM
Warren Bowery
 
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I have a 2002 Taurus, and there is a popout cover on the accessory jack
that says "12V 10AMP." I couldn't find an exact reference to the amperage
of the fuse for this circuit, though there was a 40 amp fuse protecting the
power seat, adjustable pedals and "accessory". The lighter fuse is 20
amps.

I notice that on a lot of power supplies that have a lighter jack, the jack
is only rated for 10 amps and the manuals say that they should be used for
"accessories." The manufacturers recommend using the binding posts for
transceivers.

If you do try this, let us know how it works out since this was my plan as
well. The Yaesu FT-1500M allegedly draws 8 amps at 50 watt output.


pamme (VHFRadioBuff) wrote in
:

Hello all. My car has a seperate "accessory" port from the standard
cigarette lighter. My understanding is that this port is actually rated
for more amps than the cigarette lighter and might actually be ok to
power my 50 watt 2m mobile if I were to add a cigarette lighter plug to
the end of it.

Can anyone comment on this? Any experience using these accessory ports
to power 50 watt radios? The car in question is a 2000 Mercury Sable.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73! de Andy KC2SSB - WPYI880 (GMRS)
Beachwood, NJ USA! Grid FM29vw
http://vhfradiobuff.tripod.com

  #36   Report Post  
Old October 3rd 03, 01:56 AM
Radioman
 
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I used a cigarette lighter plug on my IC-2100 for a week. Turns out that
I melted the solder in the fuse due to excessive heat. A small amount of
resistance times the current makes watts of heat that has no place to go.

I cannibalized my CB power circuit for ham use. Now it works better.
(6 gauge to battery. I used to run heat.)
  #37   Report Post  
Old October 3rd 03, 01:56 AM
Radioman
 
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I used a cigarette lighter plug on my IC-2100 for a week. Turns out that
I melted the solder in the fuse due to excessive heat. A small amount of
resistance times the current makes watts of heat that has no place to go.

I cannibalized my CB power circuit for ham use. Now it works better.
(6 gauge to battery. I used to run heat.)
  #40   Report Post  
Old October 3rd 03, 08:39 AM
Ryan, KC8PMX
 
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"Fred McKenzie" wrote in message
...
In general, the concept of the cigarette lighter plug is not a bad

idea,
PROVIDED that the wiring from the device requiring power and the wiring to
the socket itself is more than adequate. For 12v related applications, it
is too bad that this is not utlized more. Again, for those who want to
read differently into this, I am saying the concept is a good idea, but
current manufacture of such sockets are less than to be desired.

Ryan-

I agree and disagree. I think it IS a bad idea. As you say, current
manufacture of such sockets is such that it makes a poor connector for the
currents involved.


And read the last line of the quote of me..... The CONCEPT is good, but
current manufacturing of them is less that to be desired. Looking a select
design faults of such sockets, wiring etc, and "vamping up" those would
create a nice way to get power.


While you may install sockets to meet your specifications, those installed

by
auto manufacturers often are limited by a ten ampere fuse, which means

they
were designed for a five ampere load. Many lighter plugs available on the
market, may be adequate for five amperes, but not much more. I recall

melting
insulation on the wire to a lighter plug on a car I used to have, and the

fuse
never blew. The rig I was using only ran 25 watts output, but it had a
problem!


And thats why I wouldn't run more that it is rated for, for the factory
ones. Running low current draw devices is not a problem with those factory
designed ones, unless they are specifically designed to run a higher draw.


I agree with the suggestion of Dick - W6CCD. I don't know if the Andersen
Power Pole connectors are a perfect solution, but they are the best, most
readily available mobile power connector I've come across. To test them

out, I
recently switched over to West Mountain Radio's smaller "Rig Runner"

outlet box
for mobile operation. They certainly are capable of greater current than

a
common lighter plug and socket combination. Of course you can bypass the

Rig
Runner if you only have one radio to connect. The genderless feature is

one of
the things I like about the Power Poles.



I haven't seen those but will search later on and see. I have seeen some
type of connector device, but it looked like one of those strips used in
larger phone network interfaces, or at least something like it. If this
powerpole thingy is anything close to that.... I do not want it.



--
Ryan, KC8PMX
FF1-FF2-MFR-(pending NREMT-B!)
--. --- -.. ... .- -. --. . .-.. ... .- .-. . ..-. .. .-. . ..-.
... --. .... - . .-. ...



After using the Power Poles for a few months, the only drawbacks I've

found are
a difficulty in crimping ten guage wire, and the "roll pins" that some
recommend to keep the connector pair from sliding apart, keep falling out.

Per
West Mountain's suggestion, I'm now using Super Glue to keep them from

sliding
apart, but I'm still looking for a good hand-operated open-terminal crimp

tool
for the ten guage connectors.

73, Fred, K4DII






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