Hello all,

I am fortunate enough to have just acquired a new 2003 Ford Explorer
(4x4, 4-door model) and wanted to solicit input from other owners of
this vehicle as to their experiences with VHF/UHF and HF rig and
antenna installation and wiring issues.

I thought I might benefit from the experience of others in locating the
wiring channels, good paths through the firewall to the battery, and
perhaps experience in locating "remote head" radios in the forward
of the two rear under-deck storage areas (or other locations).

I plan to install a 2m/70cm transceiver and an HF plus (at least)
6m multiband rig in the vehicle. (probably both Yaesu).

Additionally, any "gotchas" on mounting remote heads on the center
console, etc. would be appreciated. (don't want to drill into something
behind a pannel, but don't want to have to tear the whole vehicle apart
to see what's behind, either, if it can be helped)

73 and thanks in advance for any insights that owners of this vehicle
may provide,

Carl - wk3c

W4WNT wrote:
I'm using double faced tape to hold the mount for the head of an Icom 706 in
place on the console of a Jeep. Should work also in an Explorer. This
allows you to remove the head and pt it out of site when the car is parked.

Are you sure that's not velcro?
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp



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W4WNT wrote:
I'm using double faced tape to hold the mount for the head of an Icom 706 in
place on the console of a Jeep. Should work also in an Explorer. This
allows you to remove the head and pt it out of site when the car is parked.

Are you sure that's not velcro?
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp



-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
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I have a 706 MKIIg in a 2003 Ranger. I don't know if this is applicable
or not but thought I'd pass it on.

How can I run Power and antennas out of vehicle to battery, antenna
mounts etc.?

Answer: In my old Ranger [1985] just below the driver side left hip
under the floor mat is a 3/4 inch drain hole with a grommet as a plug. I
released the aluminum cover from the door/mat area and lifted the mat.
Sure enough the plug was there!! I clipped out a 3/8 diameter section
from the center of the grommet and sliced one end open. After running
the necessary wires through the grommet it was reinstalled and sealed
with Coax-Seal [$3.00 at HRO].

There was no need to punch holes, drill holes, etc.

Deacon Dave, W1MCE

I have a 706 MKIIg in a 2003 Ranger. I don't know if this is applicable
or not but thought I'd pass it on.

How can I run Power and antennas out of vehicle to battery, antenna
mounts etc.?

Answer: In my old Ranger [1985] just below the driver side left hip
under the floor mat is a 3/4 inch drain hole with a grommet as a plug. I
released the aluminum cover from the door/mat area and lifted the mat.
Sure enough the plug was there!! I clipped out a 3/8 diameter section
from the center of the grommet and sliced one end open. After running
the necessary wires through the grommet it was reinstalled and sealed
with Coax-Seal [$3.00 at HRO].

There was no need to punch holes, drill holes, etc.

Deacon Dave, W1MCE

A suggestion if it's an Icom rig. Icom rigs, most notably the 706, will
not
transmit full output with any input under 13+ volts. Vehicle has to be
running.

Another problem is the rig shutting down and restarting every time you
crank
your engine. This isn't good for the rig, no mater who makes it. I
have
read reports of memory loss from this.

Go to your local car audio installer and get a 1/2 or 1 farad cap and
hook
it up in line between your radio and power source. No more spike or
power
drops when starting your vehicle.


May be, but you would have to also put a diode in line, in front of the capacitor, to
prevent the capacitor from helping to start the engine, and that loses 0.5 of a volt
unless you get a special one !

Nick

A suggestion if it's an Icom rig. Icom rigs, most notably the 706, will
not
transmit full output with any input under 13+ volts. Vehicle has to be
running.

Another problem is the rig shutting down and restarting every time you
crank
your engine. This isn't good for the rig, no mater who makes it. I
have
read reports of memory loss from this.

Go to your local car audio installer and get a 1/2 or 1 farad cap and
hook
it up in line between your radio and power source. No more spike or
power
drops when starting your vehicle.


May be, but you would have to also put a diode in line, in front of the capacitor, to
prevent the capacitor from helping to start the engine, and that loses 0.5 of a volt
unless you get a special one !

Nick

"Cecil Moore" wrote in message
...
W4WNT wrote:
I'm using double faced tape to hold the mount for the head of an Icom 706 in
place on the console of a Jeep. Should work also in an Explorer. This
allows you to remove the head and pt it out of site when the car is parked.

Are you sure that's not velcro?
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

No Cecil,

He said he uses the tape to hold the mount - he then detaches the head from the mount
to conceal it.

Nick

"Cecil Moore" wrote in message
...
W4WNT wrote:
I'm using double faced tape to hold the mount for the head of an Icom 706 in
place on the console of a Jeep. Should work also in an Explorer. This
allows you to remove the head and pt it out of site when the car is parked.

Are you sure that's not velcro?
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

No Cecil,

He said he uses the tape to hold the mount - he then detaches the head from the mount
to conceal it.

Nick

froggers wrote:
He said he uses the tape to hold the mount - he then detaches the head from the mount
to conceal it.

I use Velcro.
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp



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