In article ,
R.M wrote:

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal?

Yes, this is normal for an LM317 in a TO-220 package. The heatsink
tab is connected, internally, to the Vout pin.


So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot.

Yup. The LM317 will have put itself into its internal
current-limiting mode, and might eventually go into thermal-limit as
well.

You're fortunate that the LM317 has such a self-protection circuit.
If you were using a regulator with a separate, external pass
transistor, and hadn't included current-limiting safe-operating-
area protection components, the pass transistor would probably have
blown out in a fraction of a second.

I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.

Un-ground it. You can either use a separate heat-sink (one of the
little finned types would be best) which is isolated from ground, or
you can mount the LM317 to the ammo can using components which
transmit heat, but not electricity. A nylon screw, and a washer with
a raised inner rim are often used for the mounting; the electrical
insulation can be provided using a thin "Sil-pad" silicone pad, or the
traditional "thin mica insulator, with a very very thin coating of
silicone heat-sink grease on either side" arrangement.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

In article ,
R.M wrote:

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal?

Yes, this is normal for an LM317 in a TO-220 package. The heatsink
tab is connected, internally, to the Vout pin.


So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot.

Yup. The LM317 will have put itself into its internal
current-limiting mode, and might eventually go into thermal-limit as
well.

You're fortunate that the LM317 has such a self-protection circuit.
If you were using a regulator with a separate, external pass
transistor, and hadn't included current-limiting safe-operating-
area protection components, the pass transistor would probably have
blown out in a fraction of a second.

I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.

Un-ground it. You can either use a separate heat-sink (one of the
little finned types would be best) which is isolated from ground, or
you can mount the LM317 to the ammo can using components which
transmit heat, but not electricity. A nylon screw, and a washer with
a raised inner rim are often used for the mounting; the electrical
insulation can be provided using a thin "Sil-pad" silicone pad, or the
traditional "thin mica insulator, with a very very thin coating of
silicone heat-sink grease on either side" arrangement.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

"R.M" wrote in message
...
Dave Platt wrote:

You'd need an LM317, a modest-sized heatsink, two resistors (to set
the voltage), and a couple of capacitors (to ensure stability). The
two resistors will form a voltage divider network between the
regulator's output terminal and ground, with the LM317's "ADJ" pin
connected to the junction of the two resistors. You'll want the two
resistors to be sized so that they draw at least 5 mA of current from
the output (10 mA might be safer) - the LM317 needs a minimum load to
regulate properly.

The LM317 needs between 2.0 and 2.5 volts of headroom, between the raw
supply and the output voltage, in order to regulate properly - it'll
"drop out" if the supply voltage drops too low. For a 12-volt-nominal
battery and a 9-volt load, this shouldn't be a problem.

You could use a series/parallel string of 1N4002 rectifier diodes (or
similar) as a voltage dropper, but the regulation would be distinctly
poorer and I don't know that it'd be any cheaper.

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal? So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot. I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.


As the others have said, you need to have an insulator between the case of
the LM317 and the box. See:
http://eportal.apexmicrotech.com/mai...f/accessor.pdf
to see what the different washers, heatsinks and other accessories actually
look like and a few explanatory notes.

Cheers.

Ken

"R.M" wrote in message
...
Dave Platt wrote:

You'd need an LM317, a modest-sized heatsink, two resistors (to set
the voltage), and a couple of capacitors (to ensure stability). The
two resistors will form a voltage divider network between the
regulator's output terminal and ground, with the LM317's "ADJ" pin
connected to the junction of the two resistors. You'll want the two
resistors to be sized so that they draw at least 5 mA of current from
the output (10 mA might be safer) - the LM317 needs a minimum load to
regulate properly.

The LM317 needs between 2.0 and 2.5 volts of headroom, between the raw
supply and the output voltage, in order to regulate properly - it'll
"drop out" if the supply voltage drops too low. For a 12-volt-nominal
battery and a 9-volt load, this shouldn't be a problem.

You could use a series/parallel string of 1N4002 rectifier diodes (or
similar) as a voltage dropper, but the regulation would be distinctly
poorer and I don't know that it'd be any cheaper.

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal? So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot. I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.


As the others have said, you need to have an insulator between the case of
the LM317 and the box. See:
http://eportal.apexmicrotech.com/mai...f/accessor.pdf
to see what the different washers, heatsinks and other accessories actually
look like and a few explanatory notes.

Cheers.

Ken

"R.M" wrote in message
...
Dave Platt wrote:

You'd need an LM317, a modest-sized heatsink, two resistors (to set
the voltage), and a couple of capacitors (to ensure stability). The
two resistors will form a voltage divider network between the
regulator's output terminal and ground, with the LM317's "ADJ" pin
connected to the junction of the two resistors. You'll want the two
resistors to be sized so that they draw at least 5 mA of current from
the output (10 mA might be safer) - the LM317 needs a minimum load to
regulate properly.

The LM317 needs between 2.0 and 2.5 volts of headroom, between the raw
supply and the output voltage, in order to regulate properly - it'll
"drop out" if the supply voltage drops too low. For a 12-volt-nominal
battery and a 9-volt load, this shouldn't be a problem.

You could use a series/parallel string of 1N4002 rectifier diodes (or
similar) as a voltage dropper, but the regulation would be distinctly
poorer and I don't know that it'd be any cheaper.

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal? So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot. I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.


As the others have said, you need to have an insulator between the case of
the LM317 and the box. See:
http://eportal.apexmicrotech.com/mai...f/accessor.pdf
to see what the different washers, heatsinks and other accessories actually
look like and a few explanatory notes.

Cheers.

Ken

"Ken Taylor" wrote in message
...
"R.M" wrote in message
...
Dave Platt wrote:

You'd need an LM317, a modest-sized heatsink, two resistors (to set
the voltage), and a couple of capacitors (to ensure stability). The
two resistors will form a voltage divider network between the
regulator's output terminal and ground, with the LM317's "ADJ" pin
connected to the junction of the two resistors. You'll want the two
resistors to be sized so that they draw at least 5 mA of current from
the output (10 mA might be safer) - the LM317 needs a minimum load to
regulate properly.

The LM317 needs between 2.0 and 2.5 volts of headroom, between the raw
supply and the output voltage, in order to regulate properly - it'll
"drop out" if the supply voltage drops too low. For a 12-volt-nominal
battery and a 9-volt load, this shouldn't be a problem.

You could use a series/parallel string of 1N4002 rectifier diodes (or
similar) as a voltage dropper, but the regulation would be distinctly
poorer and I don't know that it'd be any cheaper.

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal? So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot. I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.


As the others have said, you need to have an insulator between the case of
the LM317 and the box. See:
http://eportal.apexmicrotech.com/mai...f/accessor.pdf
to see what the different washers, heatsinks and other accessories
actually
look like and a few explanatory notes.

Cheers.

Ken

Incidentally, the bits you need are probably down at RadioShack (maybe even
an application note showing how to do it), or certainly at any decent
electronics shop.

Ken

"Ken Taylor" wrote in message
...
"R.M" wrote in message
...
Dave Platt wrote:

You'd need an LM317, a modest-sized heatsink, two resistors (to set
the voltage), and a couple of capacitors (to ensure stability). The
two resistors will form a voltage divider network between the
regulator's output terminal and ground, with the LM317's "ADJ" pin
connected to the junction of the two resistors. You'll want the two
resistors to be sized so that they draw at least 5 mA of current from
the output (10 mA might be safer) - the LM317 needs a minimum load to
regulate properly.

The LM317 needs between 2.0 and 2.5 volts of headroom, between the raw
supply and the output voltage, in order to regulate properly - it'll
"drop out" if the supply voltage drops too low. For a 12-volt-nominal
battery and a 9-volt load, this shouldn't be a problem.

You could use a series/parallel string of 1N4002 rectifier diodes (or
similar) as a voltage dropper, but the regulation would be distinctly
poorer and I don't know that it'd be any cheaper.

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal? So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot. I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.


As the others have said, you need to have an insulator between the case of
the LM317 and the box. See:
http://eportal.apexmicrotech.com/mai...f/accessor.pdf
to see what the different washers, heatsinks and other accessories
actually
look like and a few explanatory notes.

Cheers.

Ken

Incidentally, the bits you need are probably down at RadioShack (maybe even
an application note showing how to do it), or certainly at any decent
electronics shop.

Ken

"Ken Taylor" wrote in message
...
"R.M" wrote in message
...
Dave Platt wrote:

You'd need an LM317, a modest-sized heatsink, two resistors (to set
the voltage), and a couple of capacitors (to ensure stability). The
two resistors will form a voltage divider network between the
regulator's output terminal and ground, with the LM317's "ADJ" pin
connected to the junction of the two resistors. You'll want the two
resistors to be sized so that they draw at least 5 mA of current from
the output (10 mA might be safer) - the LM317 needs a minimum load to
regulate properly.

The LM317 needs between 2.0 and 2.5 volts of headroom, between the raw
supply and the output voltage, in order to regulate properly - it'll
"drop out" if the supply voltage drops too low. For a 12-volt-nominal
battery and a 9-volt load, this shouldn't be a problem.

You could use a series/parallel string of 1N4002 rectifier diodes (or
similar) as a voltage dropper, but the regulation would be distinctly
poorer and I don't know that it'd be any cheaper.

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal? So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot. I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.


As the others have said, you need to have an insulator between the case of
the LM317 and the box. See:
http://eportal.apexmicrotech.com/mai...f/accessor.pdf
to see what the different washers, heatsinks and other accessories
actually
look like and a few explanatory notes.

Cheers.

Ken

Incidentally, the bits you need are probably down at RadioShack (maybe even
an application note showing how to do it), or certainly at any decent
electronics shop.

Ken

You need to insulate the heat sink tab of the LM317 from ground. Your
local electronics hobby store such as Radio Shack, should carry them.
Also be sure to get some heat sink compound. You will need to apply a
small amount between the heat sink tab of the LM317 and the insulating
material, and between the insulating material and ground.

Eric N7DLV

"R.M" wrote in message ...
Dave Platt wrote:

You'd need an LM317, a modest-sized heatsink, two resistors (to set
the voltage), and a couple of capacitors (to ensure stability). The
two resistors will form a voltage divider network between the
regulator's output terminal and ground, with the LM317's "ADJ" pin
connected to the junction of the two resistors. You'll want the two
resistors to be sized so that they draw at least 5 mA of current from
the output (10 mA might be safer) - the LM317 needs a minimum load to
regulate properly.

The LM317 needs between 2.0 and 2.5 volts of headroom, between the raw
supply and the output voltage, in order to regulate properly - it'll
"drop out" if the supply voltage drops too low. For a 12-volt-nominal
battery and a 9-volt load, this shouldn't be a problem.

You could use a series/parallel string of 1N4002 rectifier diodes (or
similar) as a voltage dropper, but the regulation would be distinctly
poorer and I don't know that it'd be any cheaper.

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal? So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot. I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.

You need to insulate the heat sink tab of the LM317 from ground. Your
local electronics hobby store such as Radio Shack, should carry them.
Also be sure to get some heat sink compound. You will need to apply a
small amount between the heat sink tab of the LM317 and the insulating
material, and between the insulating material and ground.

Eric N7DLV

"R.M" wrote in message ...
Dave Platt wrote:

You'd need an LM317, a modest-sized heatsink, two resistors (to set
the voltage), and a couple of capacitors (to ensure stability). The
two resistors will form a voltage divider network between the
regulator's output terminal and ground, with the LM317's "ADJ" pin
connected to the junction of the two resistors. You'll want the two
resistors to be sized so that they draw at least 5 mA of current from
the output (10 mA might be safer) - the LM317 needs a minimum load to
regulate properly.

The LM317 needs between 2.0 and 2.5 volts of headroom, between the raw
supply and the output voltage, in order to regulate properly - it'll
"drop out" if the supply voltage drops too low. For a 12-volt-nominal
battery and a 9-volt load, this shouldn't be a problem.

You could use a series/parallel string of 1N4002 rectifier diodes (or
similar) as a voltage dropper, but the regulation would be distinctly
poorer and I don't know that it'd be any cheaper.

Well I built it and it seems work exactly like I want expect for one
thing. Please excuse the terminology error here, but I'm going to refer
to the part of the lm317 that you attach to a heat sink as the "top". I
built my transmitter inside an ammo can with a BNC-BNC bulkhead
connecter on the top of the can so I'm have an external antenna. I also
figured that the ammo can would be perfect to affix the lm317 to for
heat distribution. You may already see the problem. Basically when I
installed bulk head BNC connecter to the ammo can it grounded the entire
ammo can. The problem is, the "top" of the lm317 that you attach the
heat sink to has positive voltage on it. Its the same voltage as the
output pin on the lm317. Is this normal? So when I connected the lm317
to the ammo can(not knowing the problem) its created a short and the
lm317 really really hot. I just assumed that the "top" of the lm317
would work if it was grounded, but l was wrong. Am I missing something
or is this normal. As long as I either unhook the lm317 or the bulkhead
BNC connector from the can everything works great. Any comments.