In article ,
Steve Silverwood wrote:

We used to have some stuff in the Air Force called "F-4 tape" which
worked great for this sort of thing. It's kind of like a putty tape, in
rolls with plastic separating each layer of the tape.

a.k.a. 3M Scotch 70 Silicone Fusible Backshell Tape, apparently.

Sounds like good stuff... sort of the high-tech, stable-silicone big
brother of the less-expensive self-amalgamating rubber electrical
tape. Not cheap, though... list price for a 1" by 30' roll is on the
order of $30 in quantity, over $38 in onesies. Ouch.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

We used to have some stuff in the Air Force called "F-4 tape" which
worked great for this sort of thing. It's kind of like a putty tape, in
rolls with plastic separating each layer of the tape.

a.k.a. 3M Scotch 70 Silicone Fusible Backshell Tape, apparently.

Sounds like good stuff... sort of the high-tech, stable-silicone big
brother of the less-expensive self-amalgamating rubber electrical
tape. Not cheap, though... list price for a 1" by 30' roll is on the
order of $30 in quantity, over $38 in onesies. Ouch.


I'll just stick to Coax-Seal (tm)
http://www.coaxseal.com/

In message , Tom writes

"Radioman" wrote in message
...
We used to have some stuff in the Air Force called "F-4 tape" which
worked great for this sort of thing. It's kind of like a putty tape, in
rolls with plastic separating each layer of the tape.

a.k.a. 3M Scotch 70 Silicone Fusible Backshell Tape, apparently.

Sounds like good stuff... sort of the high-tech, stable-silicone big
brother of the less-expensive self-amalgamating rubber electrical
tape. Not cheap, though... list price for a 1" by 30' roll is on the
order of $30 in quantity, over $38 in onesies. Ouch.


I'll just stick to Coax-Seal (tm)
http://www.coaxseal.com/

Same here. I've been using Coax-Seal for years now. I have yet to find
anything better or easier to work with.
When I do have occasion to take the connectors apart the sealant can take
some minutes to remove, but the connections look just as clean as the day I
put them up.
I would suggest one thing. When storing Coax Seal in the shack, especially
after you have opened and used part of it, be sure to store the remainder in
an airtight container of some sort. If you don't, it has a tendency to dry
out and lose it's elasticity. (this takes a couple of years, so don't be
alarmed) I store the unused portion in a simple zip lock sandwhich bag that
I press the air out of before zipping it closed.



Tom,
From the pictures on the website, 'Coax-Seal' looks exactly like
ordinary self-amalgamating tape (as I know it). The cut-away picture
shows that it does not actually bond to the plastic outer of the coax,
which enables you to open up the connection in the future.
However, I would still prefer to give the parts a spray of WD40 before
the connections are made, make the connection, spray again to ensure
that the threads are wetted, wipe off the obvious surplus (but not
trying too hard, so there are still traces left). You then apply the
tape, stretching it somewhat as you go, ensuring that you keep a nice,
even tension. You end up with a tight-fitting, waterproof rubber boot
around the joint, with the WD40 trapped inside to resist any tendency to
corrode.
I think the only argument is whether to use WD40 or not.
Ian.

--

"Steve Silverwood" wrote in message
...
In article , endor37@skip-
the-spam.hotmail.com says...
I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along
opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating
the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when
cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from
the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The
threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need to
access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and
look Okay!

K7DUP

Ian Jackson wrote:

From the pictures on the website, 'Coax-Seal' looks exactly like
ordinary self-amalgamating tape (as I know it).

They are quite different. Self-amalgamating tape is a strong,
stretchable tape. 'Coax-Seal' is a form of mouldable putty which just
happens to be supplied as a rolled-up strip, but it has no strength as a
'tape'.

The cut-away picture shows that it does not actually bond to the
plastic outer of the coax, which enables you to open up the connection
in the future.

Coax-Seal does bond to the plastic jacket, and also to metal - in both
cases, well enough to form a good waterproof seal... but if you use it
like the illustration in the ads, you'll have a real mess that is very
difficult to remove from the metal parts.

Self-amalgamating tape is much better in that respect, because it can be
cut and peeled off to leave clean surfaces. For round shapes that are
simple to wrap - like in-line plugs and jacks - it's best to use only
self-amalgamating tape. But for shapes like bulkhead connectors you
can't wrap tape tightly down onto the flange, so water can seep upward
into the connector.

The really useful feature is that Coax-Seal will bond to
self-amalgamating tape! That feature lets you use the best possible
combination of the two methods.

For a cable plug and a bulkhead socket, mould some Coax-Seal around the
base of the socket and a short way up the round part - but don't cover
the whole connector. Then wrap self-amalgamating tape down over the
cable and plug, and onto the Coax-Seal. That gives a very good seal
indeed, and you can cut the tape away at any time to find the metal
parts clean, bright and dry.

I've used these methods for many years on large yagi arrays with many
coax connections, and they do keep the connections totally waterproof.


However, I would still prefer to give the parts a spray of WD40 before
the connections are made, make the connection, spray again to ensure
that the threads are wetted, wipe off the obvious surplus (but not
trying too hard, so there are still traces left). You then apply the
tape, stretching it somewhat as you go, ensuring that you keep a nice,
even tension. You end up with a tight-fitting, waterproof rubber boot
around the joint, with the WD40 trapped inside to resist any tendency
to corrode.
I think the only argument is whether to use WD40 or not.

If the waterproofing works - and it certainly can - then there won't
*be* any tendency to corrosion.



--
73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book'
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:14:41 GMT, "Roger Gt"
wrote:


"Steve Silverwood" wrote in message
...
In article , endor37@skip-
the-spam.hotmail.com says...
I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along
opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating
the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when
cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from
the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The

You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside.
When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the
hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the
stuff you get at radio shack.

threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need to
access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and
look Okay!

When you want to remove the cover, just heat a bit and use a box
cutter, or sharp knife to cut it away. (wear leather gloves)

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com


K7DUP

"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:14:41 GMT, "Roger Gt"
wrote:
"Steve Silverwood" wrote in message
...
In article , endor37@skip-
the-spam.hotmail.com says...
I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the
best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and
then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along
opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating
the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when
cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from
the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The

You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside.
When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the
hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the
stuff you get at radio shack.

threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need
to
access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and
look Okay!

When you want to remove the cover, just heat a bit and use a box
cutter, or sharp knife to cut it away. (wear leather gloves)

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com



I'll look for it. Sounds easier!!! Thanks!
K7DUP

On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:43:48 GMT, "Roger Gt"
wrote:


"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:14:41 GMT, "Roger Gt"
wrote:
"Steve Silverwood" wrote in message
...
In article , endor37@skip-
the-spam.hotmail.com says...
I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the
best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and
then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along
opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating
the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when
cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from
the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The

You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside.
When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the
hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the
stuff you get at radio shack.

threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need
to
access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and
look Okay!

When you want to remove the cover, just heat a bit and use a box
cutter, or sharp knife to cut it away. (wear leather gloves)

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com

The stuff is made by 3M in two sizes that I've seen
800 IMCSN .80"/.22" 20/5.6 mm
and .400 IMCSN .40"/.12" 10/3.1 mm
It's a tad over a dollar a foot.

Also Times wire packages a piece with their N connectors.

I have some photos of both sizes of tubing as well as the connector
and I have one splice that has been taken apart.

I cut the splice out of the line as I though there was a problem with
it, which there was, but it was the last thing I expected. It turns
out the barrel connector had shorted and the other connectors were
still good, or would have been if I hadn't cut them out.

I'll try and get some shots up on my web page Monday or tuesday.
My home page is www.rogerhalstead.com and the URL for the coax splices
and heat shrink tubing *will* be
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm when it goes up.
As it's past 3:00 AM, I have to create the page, resize the images and
then ftp it up to the server, I think it's gonna wait. To top it off I
have to spend most of tomorrow (Monday) out at the airport, finishing
up a demolition project and then cleaning up... soooo, if my memory
holds that long, I'll try and get the page up Monday evening.

OK, I did get the page up, but only small images. Links to larger 800
X 600 images this evening.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com





I'll look for it. Sounds easier!!! Thanks!
K7DUP

"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
...

You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside.
When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the
hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the
stuff you get at radio shack.

Roger,

Would you be so kind as to provide a source/brand name for the
glue-lined heat shrink tubing you mention above?

73,
Carl - wk3c

Gentlemen,
As a long time experimentor I have used all of the suggestions given
in this thread. But science has moved on. 'Plastic dip' is now made in
spray form so I use that instead of the semi liguid stuff supplied in
cans which I also use for encapsulating.
The spray form puts a thin film over the joints which can readily be
peeled off
when reworking the joint. The sprayed plastic dip also shrinks
somewhat after application. Cost is around $6 per can of either form
in any hardware store.
Regards
Art

Roger Halstead wrote in message . ..
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:43:48 GMT, "Roger Gt"
wrote:


"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:14:41 GMT, "Roger Gt"
wrote:
"Steve Silverwood" wrote in message
...
In article , endor37@skip-
the-spam.hotmail.com says...
I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the
best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinitely.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threads, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and
then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

I have had pretty good luck by running a piece of nylon thread along
opposite sides of the connector, taping the thread in place, then coating
the Coax connector with about an eighth of an inch of Hot melt, then when
cool, With a layer or two of electrical tape to protect the Hot melt from
the sun. Thought of using Heat shrink, but it soften the Hot Melt! The

You can purchase heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside.
When you shrink the tube (starting at the center and working out) the
hot melt glue coats everything and the tube is much stronger than the
stuff you get at radio shack.

threads can be used to open the melt to make it easy to remove if I need
to
access the connector. Some if these connections have gone four years and
look Okay!

When you want to remove the cover, just heat a bit and use a box
cutter, or sharp knife to cut it away. (wear leather gloves)

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com

The stuff is made by 3M in two sizes that I've seen
800 IMCSN .80"/.22" 20/5.6 mm
and .400 IMCSN .40"/.12" 10/3.1 mm
It's a tad over a dollar a foot.

Also Times wire packages a piece with their N connectors.

I have some photos of both sizes of tubing as well as the connector
and I have one splice that has been taken apart.

I cut the splice out of the line as I though there was a problem with
it, which there was, but it was the last thing I expected. It turns
out the barrel connector had shorted and the other connectors were
still good, or would have been if I hadn't cut them out.

I'll try and get some shots up on my web page Monday or tuesday.
My home page is www.rogerhalstead.com and the URL for the coax splices
and heat shrink tubing *will* be
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm when it goes up.
As it's past 3:00 AM, I have to create the page, resize the images and
then ftp it up to the server, I think it's gonna wait. To top it off I
have to spend most of tomorrow (Monday) out at the airport, finishing
up a demolition project and then cleaning up... soooo, if my memory
holds that long, I'll try and get the page up Monday evening.

OK, I did get the page up, but only small images. Links to larger 800
X 600 images this evening.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com





I'll look for it. Sounds easier!!! Thanks!
K7DUP