I use self vulcanizing plumbers tape (peel off the white strip stuff that
sticks to itself permanently when you overlap it) and one or two black cable
ties at the finishing end. (to hold it until the chemistry bonds them at the
molecular level - time depends on temperature)

when applied to clean surfaces, and you wrap 'up' so dripping water rolls
over the seams and not into them, it's leak-proof.

¡Ciao!

In message , John Soto
writes
I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.



Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible
effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap
tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40.
Will last for ever.
Ian.
--

Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible
effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap
tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40.
Will last for ever.
Ian.

Ian,

Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ?
Isn't oil an insulator ?
And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap
in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much
tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun.

Nick

In message , Nick
Smith writes

Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible
effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap
tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40.
Will last for ever.
Ian.

Ian,

Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ?
Isn't oil an insulator ?
And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap
in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped
under much
tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun.

Nick



Nick,
I can't say I've noticed any tendency for WD40 to insulate the
contacting surfaces of connectors (not that I do this very often). There
should normally be sufficient pressure for the contacts to punch through
the oily layer. I reckon that WD40 will be similar to 'Lectrolube' and
similar switch cleaner-lubricants which leave a lubricating layer. Maybe
switch cleaner could be used instead of WD40, but it must be
lubricating, and not just cleaning.

However, I did once have a problem with the points in the ignition
circuit in a car. I put a little too much grease on the cam, and it
eventually worked its way along to the actual contacts. It proved a
surprisingly effective insulator!

As for the effects of sunlight on self-amalgamating tape...
Again, I haven't noticed any obvious deterioration, but the '.co.uk'
part of my e-mail address may offer some explanation! I wouldn't use PVC
tape to overwrap it - PVC always comes adrift eventually. The
old-fashioned black fabric-based electricians' tape would probably be
OK, provided you secure the end with superglue (another sovereign
remedy).

Cheers,
Ian.

--

Hi Ian,


Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ?
Isn't oil an insulator ?
And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap
in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped
under much
tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun.

Nick



Nick,
I can't say I've noticed any tendency for WD40 to insulate the
contacting surfaces of connectors (not that I do this very often). There
should normally be sufficient pressure for the contacts to punch through
the oily layer. I reckon that WD40 will be similar to 'Lectrolube' and
similar switch cleaner-lubricants which leave a lubricating layer. Maybe
switch cleaner could be used instead of WD40, but it must be
lubricating, and not just cleaning.

However, I did once have a problem with the points in the ignition
circuit in a car. I put a little too much grease on the cam, and it
eventually worked its way along to the actual contacts. It proved a
surprisingly effective insulator!

As for the effects of sunlight on self-amalgamating tape...
Again, I haven't noticed any obvious deterioration, but the '.co.uk'
part of my e-mail address may offer some explanation! I wouldn't use PVC
tape to overwrap it - PVC always comes adrift eventually. The
old-fashioned black fabric-based electricians' tape would probably be
OK, provided you secure the end with superglue (another sovereign
remedy).

Cheers,
Ian.


I am fairly certain I saw the S.A. tape tip in RadCom
a while back, also "PVC cables when hot" being a hazard to bare skin..

and I cant bring myself to lubricate fixed contacts before sealing up. Like
car battery terminal posts being smeared with vaseline before fitting the
clamps - just cant do it ! Probably being paranoid here !

Thanks for the reply though

Nick

Best is to use a good quality compression connector such as LRC snap n seal.
If these connectors are installed properly, the only target for water
intrusion is the threads. If you put a small dab of silicone grease on the
threads of the female portion of the connection before screwing on the
connector (make sure it's on the threads, not the center conductor), no
other water proofing is needed. We did an experiment at the cable company I
worked at when snap n seal connectors were first introduced. We sealed all
four connectors on a tap as above and put the tap in the bottom of a trash
barrell under three feet of water. After three months under water, there was
no sign of water intrusion.

On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 19:23:33 -0500, John Soto
wrote:

I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately.

I originally went with RG-11 and found it too unwieldy and went back
to RG-6. You have plenty of signal so unless the cables are *really*
long it's not a problem.


I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease

DC-4 or DC-5 compound works well when used sparingly and *only* at the
one end of the cable.

The problem with using silicon grease is getting anything to stick
afterwards. You have to be very careful with the stuff.

As others have mentioned, coax seal (tm), or the electrical putty, and
liquid electrical tape all work well as does the flooded heat shrink
tubing. The latter makes the neatest and most mechanically sound
connection, but you don't want to put too much stress on that "F"
connector on the LNB. The RG-11 was putting far too much stress on
mine. I have both the DISH Network and C-Band satellite reception and
found even with 200 foot runs to both the big and little dishes the
RG-6 was preferable, at least in my situation.

sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

I prefer simple is better. (on the LNB I just give the F connectors
and cable a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape and a little dab
of DC-4 compound inside) Nor do I use Scotch 88 tape. I have problems
with it in both high temperature and low temperature extremes. In
most cases I've found the "cheap" stuff worked better over a wider
range, but you have to try it first as the quality may vary widely.

One other point, I never flood the connectors in a splice. Only at the
far outside end do I flood the connector. Splices get only the
flooded heat shrink tubing. When shrunk it has a wall thickness about
twice to three times the thickness of the RG-11 jacket. The flooding
compound thoroughly seals the outside of the cable and connectors from
the elements with no additional wrapping.


Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com

On Fri, 26 Dec 2003 13:15:11 -0000, "Nick Smith"
wrote:


Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible
effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap
tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40.
Will last for ever.
Ian.

Ian,

Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ?
Isn't oil an insulator ?

Sure it is, but that has little to do with the application. WD-40
also works well on moving switch contacts. I'd not recommend it in a
band switch though as getting in the pader caps would be a disaster.

Remember in a switch the pressure "wipes" the surface. In the case of
the connector the pressure of a well tightened connector will press
out any oil giving a good contact. Unfortunately it also provides
some lubrication making for the possibility of over tightening the
connector. I've stripped the threads right out of PL259s and N
connectors when I managed to get some silicon grease on the threads.

And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap
in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much
tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun.

Too complicated a way to go. I don't get that elaborate on high power
UHF and VHF connections.

Simple, liquid electrical tape is as good as any as long as the
surface is dry so it can stick. It forms a very tough film that lasts
a long time even in direct sunlight.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com

Nick

I have some liquid tape and it is very good for this kind of thing, too.
Also you may want to look for Caltex CopperKote - a copper loaded
grease if you can't stand the thought of putting vaseline or similar
on the plugs first. I also use it on battery posts.

It is used commercially by the power companies when they string up
supply lines. The tiny copper flakes cut thru and make contact.
Cheers.
Murray vk4aok

Roger Halstead wrote:

On Fri, 26 Dec 2003 13:15:11 -0000, "Nick Smith"
wrote:


Before connecting, spray both connectors with WD40 (has negligible
effect on signals). Connect. Wipe off WD40 (on outside, of course). Wrap
tightly and neatly with self-amalgamating tape. Spray again with WD40.
Will last for ever.
Ian.

Ian,

Surely the WD40 should not be applied to the electrically connecting surfaces ?
Isn't oil an insulator ?

Sure it is, but that has little to do with the application. WD-40
also works well on moving switch contacts. I'd not recommend it in a
band switch though as getting in the pader caps would be a disaster.

Remember in a switch the pressure "wipes" the surface. In the case of
the connector the pressure of a well tightened connector will press
out any oil giving a good contact. Unfortunately it also provides
some lubrication making for the possibility of over tightening the
connector. I've stripped the threads right out of PL259s and N
connectors when I managed to get some silicon grease on the threads.

And I wouldn't be happy leaving self amalgamating exposed to the sun - overwrap
in plastic insulating tape as well with the outermost layer not wrapped under much
tension to stop the tape unwrapping itself when baking in the sun.

Too complicated a way to go. I don't get that elaborate on high power
UHF and VHF connections.

Simple, liquid electrical tape is as good as any as long as the
surface is dry so it can stick. It forms a very tough film that lasts
a long time even in direct sunlight.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair?)
www.rogerhalstead.com

Nick


--
****************************
Murray Kelly vk4aok

6 Spyglass Place,
Oxley, QLD. 4075. Australia
ph/fax Intl+ 61 7 3879 7968
****************************

In article , endor37@skip-
the-spam.hotmail.com says...
I'm planning to run 6 RG11 feeds for my DishTV setup. What is the best
way of making sure the connections are *waterproof* indefinately.

I'm using T&B SNS connectors on the cable and where the connection
meets the LNB, I'm thinking about using some sorta of silicone grease
sealant on the threds, plenty of wrapping with Scotch 88 tape and then
a coat of Skotchcoat.

We used to have some stuff in the Air Force called "F-4 tape" which
worked great for this sort of thing. It's kind of like a putty tape, in
rolls with plastic separating each layer of the tape. You wrap up the
connector like you would with electrical tape, only stretching the tape
a bit as you go. What happens is the tape molds itself together around
the connector and provides a very water-tight seal around the whole tape
job. Not sure if it's available on the civilian market but if so it's a
great item to have handy.

--

-- //Steve//

Steve Silverwood, KB6OJS
Fountain Valley, CA
Email: