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#1
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I operate mobile with a number of Hamstick antennas - fiberglass rods
~1/2" (1.3cm) diameter with stainless steel whips at the end. A separate antenna is necessary for each band. The antennas come with paper tags at the bottom indicating which band they're for. These are surprisingly durable, but they aren't perfect. The 20 meter antenna has lost its tag - luckily right now I know that the untagged antenna is 20 but if another one loses its tag I'll be down to comparing lengths of loading coils... What methods can folks suggest for labeling these antennas? Remember that, while in use, it'll be exposed to the elements on the rear bumper of a car. -- Doug Smith W9WI Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66 http://www.w9wi.com |
#2
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Use a minidrill with an engraving bit on it and engrave "20M" into the
side of the stainless base?? Larry VE7EA |
#3
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I have to break down the antenna to fit in my trunk. I mark the whip with
colored vinyl tape at the point it adjusts into the mast, and put a piece of the same colored tape on the mast. Red=40, Blue=30, Yellow=20. I use Hustlers for 75/80 since the Hamstick doesn't cover 80, and the 75 meter resonator carries red tape so I can quickly tell it from 80. ... "Doug Smith W9WI" wrote in message ... I operate mobile with a number of Hamstick antennas - fiberglass rods ~1/2" (1.3cm) diameter with stainless steel whips at the end. A separate antenna is necessary for each band. The antennas come with paper tags at the bottom indicating which band they're for. These are surprisingly durable, but they aren't perfect. The 20 meter antenna has lost its tag - luckily right now I know that the untagged antenna is 20 but if another one loses its tag I'll be down to comparing lengths of loading coils... What methods can folks suggest for labeling these antennas? Remember that, while in use, it'll be exposed to the elements on the rear bumper of a car. -- Doug Smith W9WI Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66 http://www.w9wi.com |
#4
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xpyttl wrote:
Hustlers for 75/80 since the Hamstick doesn't cover 80, and the 75 meter Yeah, this was an unpleasant surprise last night. I'd bought the 75m antenna months ago & figured it was marketed as "75" because they didn't think anybody would want to work mobile in the CW band. Finally got around to trying it in a Wendy's parking lot in Cadiz, Ky. - and found with the stinger all the way out it wouldn't resonate any lower than 3650. Yet the cutting guide packed with the antenna provides length settings for the entire 80m band. Yes, I *was* parked far away from any light poles/buildings/semis/other detuning objects... (and despite the 9:1 SWR I was able to make three QSOs on 3560 as far away as Pennsylvania...) -- Doug Smith W9WI Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66 http://www.w9wi.com |
#5
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On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 15:52:47 GMT, Doug Smith W9WI wrote:
I operate mobile with a number of Hamstick antennas - fiberglass rods ~1/2" (1.3cm) diameter with stainless steel whips at the end. A separate antenna is necessary for each band. The antennas come with paper tags at the bottom indicating which band they're for. These are surprisingly durable, but they aren't perfect. The 20 meter antenna has lost its tag - luckily right now I know that the untagged antenna is 20 but if another one loses its tag I'll be down to comparing lengths of loading coils... What methods can folks suggest for labeling these antennas? Remember that, while in use, it'll be exposed to the elements on the rear bumper of a car. Heatshrink tubing. Either colour coded, or clear with a printed/coded label inside. |
#6
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In article ,
Doug Smith W9WI wrote: What methods can folks suggest for labeling these antennas? Remember that, while in use, it'll be exposed to the elements on the rear bumper of a car. How about labelling the antenna or base with a self-adhesive label (e.g Brother P-Touch), and then covering it with some clear heat-shrink tubing? -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
#7
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Dave Platt wrote:
How about labelling the antenna or base with a self-adhesive label (e.g Brother P-Touch), and then covering it with some clear heat-shrink tubing? I've learned the hard way that P-Touch labels can't tolerate exposure to sunlight. I like the colored tape idea. -- Doug Smith W9WI Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66 http://www.w9wi.com |
#8
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Paint or nail polish with the resistor color code:
GRY/BLK = 80 PUR/GRN = 75 YEL/BLK = 40 ORN/BLK = 30 RED/BLK = 20 BRN/GRN = 15 BRN/BLK = 10 Since the hamsticks themselves are black, you could omit black as the second color unless you want to paint a white background first. I'd paint a circle clear around it like a resistor so you can read it without rotating the antenna. And yes, there is green nail polish. :-) Bill, W6WRT ------------ ORIGINAL MESSAGE ------------ On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 15:52:47 GMT, Doug Smith W9WI wrote: What methods can folks suggest for labeling these antennas? Remember that, while in use, it'll be exposed to the elements on the rear bumper of a car. |
#9
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Bill Turner wrote:
Paint or nail polish with the resistor color code: GRY/BLK = 80 PUR/GRN = 75 YEL/BLK = 40 ORN/BLK = 30 RED/BLK = 20 BRN/GRN = 15 BRN/BLK = 10 Since the hamsticks themselves are black, you could omit black as the second color unless you want to paint a white background first. I'd paint a circle clear around it like a resistor so you can read it without rotating the antenna. And yes, there is green nail polish. :-) I'm single & live in a small town. Buying green nail polish may not be a good ideagrin. Would nail polish stand exposure to the elements? -- Doug Smith W9WI Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66 http://www.w9wi.com |
#10
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"Doug Smith W9WI" wrote in message
... I'm single & live in a small town. Buying green nail polish may not be a good ideagrin. I've been using nail polish to mark the polarity of toriod coils. The problem is, other than red/pink, most of the colors aren't very opaque. Even though blue and fluorescent green look starkly diferent in the bottle, if you paint them on something dark they are pretty hard to tell from clear. Having the brush in the bottle is terribly convenient, though. Why don't they make model enamel with the brush in the cap? Or nail polish that looks like model paint? Oh yeah, and nail polish has an amazing range of price. I have a few bottles of the cheap stuff I got years ago. Might be more opaque if I could get my head around ten bucks for a half-ounce of paint. ... |
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