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#1
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Hi all!
I couldn't find a place that sells this type of variable capacitators, so I decided to build my own, but I think I could use the feedback of people who actually know what they're doing. Since I know none, I had to settle for r.r.a.h. (Just kidding!! ;D ) I don't have a DX license yet. I'll probably get one last when I decide I want to build a transmitter, but it'll be a good while until I know enough to do that. An ATU seemed a simple enough curcuit to start with, and it seems I'll be building every part of it from scratch. So, too late to cut to the chase, what I'm planning is using 32 aluminum plates 200 x 50 x 2 mm each cut diagonally in half to make 64 plates total 40 cm^2 actual surface area each spaced 3 mm apart. This should make a cap weighting in at 743 pF with a voltage tolerance of almost 9 kV according to the KI6GD Capacitator Calculator, if I'm using it right. I'm going to build two of them. It should be... enough. ![]() http://img413.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ict3833tj4.jpg http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ict3834eu7.jpg First pic is of the plates I'm going to cut, and second is my schematic. As you can see I'm going for an unusual shape with the plates. This is to minimize my work load. I'll just have to cut straight, drill a hole and file down the corners to prevent corona discharge. Once the caps are complete I'll just measure their values at different levels and make a chart or scale. So r.r.a.h, if you are still reading, what has this humble newbie already screwed up? I know the sensitivity is going to be extremely high, but I should be able to fix that with some simple mechanics. My old LEGO bricks should do the trick, come to think of it... Thank you very much for reading. Hope to see a reply, even if it's just "Go for it!" or "You've got it all backwards". -- Sincerely, Nosforit |
#2
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![]() Ceriel Nosforit wrote: Hi all! I couldn't find a place that sells this type of variable capacitators, so I decided to build my own, but I think I could use the feedback of people who actually know what they're doing. Since I know none, I had to settle for r.r.a.h. (Just kidding!! ;D ) I don't have a DX license yet. I'll probably get one last when I decide I want to build a transmitter, but it'll be a good while until I know enough to do that. An ATU seemed a simple enough curcuit to start with, and it seems I'll be building every part of it from scratch. So, too late to cut to the chase, what I'm planning is using 32 aluminum plates 200 x 50 x 2 mm each cut diagonally in half to make 64 plates total 40 cm^2 actual surface area each spaced 3 mm apart. This should make a cap weighting in at 743 pF with a voltage tolerance of almost 9 kV according to the KI6GD Capacitator Calculator, if I'm using it right. I'm going to build two of them. It should be... enough. ![]() http://img413.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ict3833tj4.jpg http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ict3834eu7.jpg First pic is of the plates I'm going to cut, and second is my schematic. As you can see I'm going for an unusual shape with the plates. This is to minimize my work load. I'll just have to cut straight, drill a hole and file down the corners to prevent corona discharge. Once the caps are complete I'll just measure their values at different levels and make a chart or scale. So r.r.a.h, if you are still reading, what has this humble newbie already screwed up? I know the sensitivity is going to be extremely high, but I should be able to fix that with some simple mechanics. My old LEGO bricks should do the trick, come to think of it... Thank you very much for reading. Hope to see a reply, even if it's just "Go for it!" or "You've got it all backwards". -- Sincerely, Nosforit Well, this is basically a "go for it." I'm not quite clear on how you are going to stack up the plates when you're done...what holds them in position and so forth. One advantage of the "normal" semicircular plates is that there's not such a long piece of metal hanging off the rotor shaft as you will have, assuming the shaft runs through the "pointy" end of the rotor pieces. Beware of what vibration does to you, in other words. As thick as your plates are, I suppose that won't be a problem. The widest-range variable I have is built with circular plates, with a tab off the edge of each through which the rotating shaft goes. There are actually two rotors, which are coupled through equal-size gears on each shaft, so one rotates clockwise as the other rotates counterclockwise. The plates go from full mesh to full separation, and give over 100:1 capacitance ratio from max to min. The shafts must be insulated from each other, of course. There's some advantage to a capacitor with a wide tuning range in an ATU, in getting the ATU to be able to cover a wide range of matching impedances over a wide range of frequencies. Anyway, I suppose you could do something similar with your rectangular plates. Cheers, Tom |
#3
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Alas, on the wretched hour of Thu, 04 Jan 2007 09:56:29 -0800 K7ITM
thusly proclaimed: Ceriel Nosforit wrote: measure twice, snip once Well, this is basically a "go for it." I'm not quite clear on how you are going to stack up the plates when you're done...what holds them in position and so forth. One advantage of the "normal" semicircular plates is that there's not such a long piece of metal hanging off the rotor shaft as you will have, assuming the shaft runs through the "pointy" end of the rotor pieces. Beware of what vibration does to you, in other words. As thick as your plates are, I suppose that won't be a problem. The widest-range variable I have is built with circular plates, with a tab off the edge of each through which the rotating shaft goes. There are actually two rotors, which are coupled through equal-size gears on each shaft, so one rotates clockwise as the other rotates counterclockwise. The plates go from full mesh to full separation, and give over 100:1 capacitance ratio from max to min. The shafts must be insulated from each other, of course. There's some advantage to a capacitor with a wide tuning range in an ATU, in getting the ATU to be able to cover a wide range of matching impedances over a wide range of frequencies. Anyway, I suppose you could do something similar with your rectangular plates. Cheers, Tom Hello Tom. Thank you for your reply. ![]() I'll separate the plates with spacer disks and bolts on a 6 mm threaded steel rod, indeed through the pointy ends. 6 mm is IMO too thin on its own, but the disks and bolts should add a lot of stability. The entire thing will be propped up on plexiglass plates at the ends, and I'll have one additional 6 mm threaded steel rod where I marked 60 degrees on my schematic. If it still not stable I'll add something to the top and bottom to keep the rods stretched straight. If that still isn't enough, I'll have to build some sort of support for the mid-section. The blades will separate from each other more than completely, if I want to. I don't know the electrical implications of what would happen if I did so. I guess at some point the curcuit would simply be broken... Maybe permanently? Either way, infinite ratio from max to min. ![]() I plan on either adding a counter-weight, a rubber band, or some mechanics to keep the rotor from simply falling down. A counter-weight should give a nice 'feel' to the dials, which is very important for any sense of "quality". If the parts of the ATU turn out reasonably pretty I'll make an enclosure largely out of plexiglass for them. A cardboard box is however a lot more likely. I expect the end result to look horrible and work marginally better. XD -- Nos |
#4
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![]() Ten Tec in USA offers a variable capacitor kit, max C is 500pf @ ~5kv. Cost is about $80 USD. Takes about a hour to assemble. I use them in a 1.5kw ATU and they work fine. Kit #1207. If you get all the parts, cut them up, and assemble the whole thing, homebrew, makes the $80 price tag seem reasonable. I could see you spending more than half on just materials. Good Luck, Gary N4AST |
#5
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"Ceriel Nosforit" wrote
So r.r.a.h, if you are still reading, what has this humble newbie already screwed up? I know the sensitivity is going to be extremely high, but I should be able to fix that with some simple mechanics. My old LEGO bricks should do the trick, come to think of it... I'm doing a random wire "semi-automatic" tuner, and also trying to make varicaps for it. I found a eBay seller from Germany, if I remember right, who sells ready-made air-varicap plates. I bought few dosens of them for 20 euros. I think the seller ships worldwide. I'm sure there is other producers too... 73 de Jukka, oh6mwq |
#6
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Alas, on the wretched hour of Fri, 05 Jan 2007 15:32:13 +0000 Jukka
Pappinen thusly proclaimed: "Ceriel Nosforit" wrote So r.r.a.h, if you are still reading, what has this humble newbie already screwed up? I know the sensitivity is going to be extremely high, but I should be able to fix that with some simple mechanics. My old LEGO bricks should do the trick, come to think of it... I'm doing a random wire "semi-automatic" tuner, and also trying to make varicaps for it. I found a eBay seller from Germany, if I remember right, who sells ready-made air-varicap plates. I bought few dosens of them for 20 euros. I think the seller ships worldwide. I'm sure there is other producers too... 73 de Jukka, oh6mwq That's a rather good deal. I paid 25€ for material costs and an additional 5€ to my neighbour who got them for me. My brother who teaches handicrafts at a school is going to let me use the workshop to do the rest of the work, so right now I'm looking at a cost of 33€ for materials, but I still haven't bought the plexiglass. How is your tuner going to be semi-automatic, if I may ask? p.s I can see you're a fellow Finn aswell, so here is a rather useful link I found earlier today: http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/f...liikkeita.html I'm sure Vekoy is a familiar place for you already, but still... ![]() -- Nos |
#7
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Alas, on the wretched hour of Thu, 04 Jan 2007 15:19:59 -0800 jgboyles
thusly proclaimed: Ten Tec in USA offers a variable capacitor kit, max C is 500pf @ ~5kv. Cost is about $80 USD. Takes about a hour to assemble. I use them in a 1.5kw ATU and they work fine. Kit #1207. If you get all the parts, cut them up, and assemble the whole thing, homebrew, makes the $80 price tag seem reasonable. I could see you spending more than half on just materials. Good Luck, Gary N4AST Those are not all that awful prices for the rest of their kits... The BFO circuit looks especially tempting. I'll be sure to check it again when I decide I'm going to build an actual radio. Thanks for the link! -- Nos |
#8
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How is your tuner going to be semi-automatic, if I may ask?
========================= Suggest you consider a stepper motor from a dumped printer/scanner/floppy drive or HD ,if necessary including a shaft rotational reducer when steps are too big. Google will provide you with suitable (simple) circuits to drive the motor ,usually involving one or more opamps. From semi-automatic the circuit can evolve towards a fully automatic system with a SWR sensing circuit. Frank KN6WH/GM0CSZ |
#9
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"Ceriel Nosforit" kirjoitti viestissä:5Sznh.20298
How is your tuner going to be semi-automatic, if I may ask? "Remote controlled tuner with few memories for spot frequencies" maybe describes better what I'm going to do. - Jukka, oh6mwq |
#10
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Alas, on the wretched hour of Fri, 05 Jan 2007 23:52:01 +0100 Highland
Ham thusly proclaimed: How is your tuner going to be semi-automatic, if I may ask? ========================= Suggest you consider a stepper motor from a dumped printer/scanner/floppy drive or HD ,if necessary including a shaft rotational reducer when steps are too big. Google will provide you with suitable (simple) circuits to drive the motor ,usually involving one or more opamps. From semi-automatic the circuit can evolve towards a fully automatic system with a SWR sensing circuit. Frank KN6WH/GM0CSZ You know... I just happen to have two old floppy drives in my drawer. Might be able to control them as they are through the standard cable if I have the right software. Would just have to make another mechanical modification to put the motion to use. A standard diskette might come in handy for that. ![]() Excellent idea! Thanks! -- Nos |
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