anybody have any airdux (or similar) coil stock they wish to part with
(cheap)?
Looking for something #16 wire, about 2" diameter, maybe 3" long. Needs to
be about 10 turns per inch.
Actually, if is is 2" diameter and 10 TPI, I need a 2" chunk for the 13-ish
uH needed.
It's for a 6146 homebrew transmitter final amp.
tnx,
Bob
kb8tl at yahoo dot com

"Bob" wrote in message
...
anybody have any airdux (or similar) coil stock they wish to part with
(cheap)?
Looking for something #16 wire, about 2" diameter, maybe 3" long. Needs
to be about 10 turns per inch.
Actually, if is is 2" diameter and 10 TPI, I need a 2" chunk for the
13-ish uH needed.
It's for a 6146 homebrew transmitter final amp.
tnx,
Bob
kb8tl at yahoo dot com

Have you ever thought about winding your own? Find something of the right
diameter - PVC pipe, wood dowel, cardboard roll, etc. Wrap it with waxed
paper, then wind the wire on it tightly holding the ends down with tape.
Mix up some epoxy (24-hour cure will be stronger and more flexible, but
5-minute epoxy will also work). Apply the mixed epoxy to your coil in
lines about 1/4 inch wide. Use at least six lines to make a sturdy coil.
Let the epoxy cure for several hours to overnight depending on the epoxy
chosen. Carefully withdraw the form and unroll the waxed paper from the
inside of the coil. It's really simple to do and you have a real homebrew
rig.

Make sure you use bare copper or tinned copper wire if you have to tap the
coil. If you use bare copper, do not use polyester resin instead of the
epoxy as it will not cure properly. I won't say why, but instead leave
this as a mystery for the readers of this newsgroup.

73, Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ
[transpose the digits to reply]

NoSPAM wrote:
"Bob" wrote in message
...
anybody have any airdux (or similar) coil stock they wish to part with
(cheap)?


Have you ever thought about winding your own? Find something of the
right diameter - PVC pipe, wood dowel, cardboard roll, etc. Wrap it
with waxed paper, then wind the wire on it tightly holding the ends down
with tape. Mix up some epoxy (24-hour cure will be stronger and more
flexible, but 5-minute epoxy will also work). Apply the mixed epoxy to
your coil in lines about 1/4 inch wide. Use at least six lines to make
a sturdy coil. Let the epoxy cure for several hours to overnight
depending on the epoxy chosen. Carefully withdraw the form and unroll
the waxed paper from the inside of the coil. It's really simple to do
and you have a real homebrew rig.

Thats my plan. I cannot afford the real air/mini-dux.

http://www.sparkbench.com/homebrew/grebe/rear.jpg

Forget the epoxy and use Duco Cement.

"polyester resin instead of the epoxy as it will not cure properly. I
won't say why, but instead leave this as a mystery for the readers of
this newsgroup."

For me the Duco Cement has always held better than epoxy.

-Bill

I'm not sure if you thought of this, but there are
a few guys who do nothing but part out Heathkits
and sell the parts on eBay. Right now there's a
DX-40 PA coil going for a few bucks. I've seen
tons of AirDux styles (such as the DX-40), and
also fiberglas and ceramic tanks from later
Heathkits. I picked up a PA tank (ceramic form)
for a TX project I'm planning. Often the PA
tank switch is included, along with the standoff
insulators. Worth a shot if nothing pans out here.

Pete k1zjh

On Jan 24, 9:58*pm, "Tio Pedro" wrote:
I'm not sure if you thought of this, but there are
a few guys who do nothing but part out Heathkits
and sell the parts on eBay. *Right now there's a
DX-40 PA coil going for a few bucks. I've seen
tons of AirDux styles (such as the DX-40), and
also fiberglas and ceramic tanks from later
Heathkits. I picked up a PA tank (ceramic form)
for a TX project I'm planning. Often the PA
tank switch is included, along with the standoff
insulators. Worth a shot if nothing pans out here.

Pete k1zjh

Hey OM

I don't know about that, I bought an airdux coil off of ebay came
with the catalog spec sheet for airdux coils
The guy listed it as a 100 watt rated coil turned out to be a 1000
watt coil verified by the spec sheet that came with it Although I'll
say this nobody else bid on it. And sometimes they use other ebayers
pictures and tell you yup what you see is what you get. And the
picture isn't a picture of the item.

Personally I would roll my own. The trick that not to many people know
about epoxy is: heat it up first in a microwave oven, so hot that you
can't touch it. Then mix it.
I roll up a newspaper, in my case junk mail advertizing flyers, for
the coil form, you can get any diameter you want this way.

Good luck and 73 OM
de n8zu

"raypsi" wrote in message
...
On Jan 24, 9:58 pm, "Tio Pedro" wrote:
I'm not sure if you thought of this, but there are
a few guys who do nothing but part out Heathkits
and sell the parts on eBay. Right now there's a
DX-40 PA coil going for a few bucks. I've seen
tons of AirDux styles (such as the DX-40), and
also fiberglas and ceramic tanks from later
Heathkits. I picked up a PA tank (ceramic form)
for a TX project I'm planning. Often the PA
tank switch is included, along with the standoff
insulators. Worth a shot if nothing pans out here.

Pete k1zjh

Hey OM

I don't know about that, I bought an airdux coil off of ebay came
with the catalog spec sheet for airdux coils
The guy listed it as a 100 watt rated coil turned out to be a 1000
watt coil verified by the spec sheet that came with it Although I'll
say this nobody else bid on it. And sometimes they use other ebayers
pictures and tell you yup what you see is what you get. And the
picture isn't a picture of the item.
Good luck and 73 OM
de n8zu

You misread what I said. My advice was to look for a PA
tank that was salvaged from a DX-40, DX-60, HW-101, etc.
Not NOS AirDux stock. Unfortunately there seems to be a
lot of folks chopping these old rigs up for parts and selling
them off piece meal. The early DX series used AirDux
like coils, and they are already tapped for the five original
HF bands. There isn't a big market for them so they
sell cheap.

Pete

In Bill M
wrote:

I cannot afford the real air/mini-dux.

This thread prompted me to look at B&W's Web site.

The price of the real Airdux is breathtaking.

A single piece of the 1610TL (10" long, 2" diameter, 10tpi, 16 gauge
wire) that the OP is looking for is $100.

Even the lesser-rated 3027 Miniductor is a hefty $40.

http://www.bwantennas.com/coils/aduxlex.htm
http://www.bwantennas.com/coils/mini.htm

--
Bert Hyman St. Paul, MN

Bert Hyman wrote:
In Bill M
wrote:

I cannot afford the real air/mini-dux.

This thread prompted me to look at B&W's Web site.

The price of the real Airdux is breathtaking.

A single piece of the 1610TL (10" long, 2" diameter, 10tpi, 16 gauge
wire) that the OP is looking for is $100.

Even the lesser-rated 3027 Miniductor is a hefty $40.

http://www.bwantennas.com/coils/aduxlex.htm
http://www.bwantennas.com/coils/mini.htm

Even inflation doesn't account for those prices!
In 1967 I bought some mini-inductor stock for building a receiver
project from PE magazine. The #3016 mini-inductor was $1.03 and the
#3013 was $0.63 each. Today, they are listed on the website at $60 and
$20 each! Over a 50X increase in price! Inflation over some 40 years
wasn't THAT bad (or gas would be over $15/gal today).

Note that the web site implies that they are no longer making the coils
anymore, and that a 'special order' might be involved.

In article ,
NoSPAM wrote:
"Bob" wrote in message
...
anybody have any airdux (or similar) coil stock they wish to part with
(cheap)?
Looking for something #16 wire, about 2" diameter, maybe 3" long. Needs
to be about 10 turns per inch.
Actually, if is is 2" diameter and 10 TPI, I need a 2" chunk for the
13-ish uH needed.
It's for a 6146 homebrew transmitter final amp.
tnx,
Bob
kb8tl at yahoo dot com

Have you ever thought about winding your own? Find something of the right
diameter - PVC pipe, wood dowel, cardboard roll, etc. Wrap it with waxed
paper, then wind the wire on it tightly holding the ends down with tape.
Mix up some epoxy (24-hour cure will be stronger and more flexible, but
5-minute epoxy will also work). Apply the mixed epoxy to your coil in
lines about 1/4 inch wide. Use at least six lines to make a sturdy coil.
Let the epoxy cure for several hours to overnight depending on the epoxy
chosen. Carefully withdraw the form and unroll the waxed paper from the
inside of the coil. It's really simple to do and you have a real homebrew
rig.

Make sure you use bare copper or tinned copper wire if you have to tap the
coil. If you use bare copper, do not use polyester resin instead of the
epoxy as it will not cure properly. I won't say why, but instead leave
this as a mystery for the readers of this newsgroup.

suggestions.

1) Fiberglass perf board is drilled on .1 centers so you can cut a piece
down the middle of the holes, a bit of hacksaw work if needed, and use
it as a comb spacer glued from the outside.

2) just cut several .2 inch strips of perf board with a row of holes in
the middle, start at one end and feed a preformed slinky of the wire so
that the strips space and support it.

2 is less work than 1, but it's real hard to get it nice looking.

3) Another way is to wind with a second wire used as an interleave,
hot glue both wires and then pull out the second wire, (insulated
which doesn't take the glue as well as the bare wire and stranded for
flexability), from the inside after removed from the forming dowel.
For transmitters, you'd probably need to treat the hot glue as a
temporary scaffold and use a better glue for the final structure.

Mark Zenier
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

SUPPLY AND DEMAND....
That is the only thing the really counts.......




"ken scharf" wrote in message
...
Bert Hyman wrote:
In Bill M
wrote:
I cannot afford the real air/mini-dux.

This thread prompted me to look at B&W's Web site.

The price of the real Airdux is breathtaking. A single piece of the
1610TL (10" long, 2" diameter, 10tpi, 16 gauge
wire) that the OP is looking for is $100. Even the lesser-rated 3027
Miniductor is a hefty $40.

http://www.bwantennas.com/coils/aduxlex.htm
http://www.bwantennas.com/coils/mini.htm

Even inflation doesn't account for those prices!
In 1967 I bought some mini-inductor stock for building a receiver project
from PE magazine. The #3016 mini-inductor was $1.03 and the #3013 was
$0.63 each. Today, they are listed on the website at $60 and $20 each!
Over a 50X increase in price! Inflation over some 40 years wasn't THAT
bad (or gas would be over $15/gal today).

Note that the web site implies that they are no longer making the coils
anymore, and that a 'special order' might be involved.