I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a Group 31.

I don't want an RFI generator: I already have one.

I already have a few 13.8V 25A power supplies, one of which I would be
quite willing to "crank up" to a higher voltage to compensate for the
voltage drop in the control circuitry.

Something like the West Mountain Radio "Super PwrGate" (PG40S) would
work, although the automatic switch-over feature is not essential. That
device is intended for Gel-Cell and AGM batteries and not recommended
for flooded batteries -- absorption-charge voltage too low and
float-charge voltage too high, their tech support people tell me.

"Perce"

On Sat, 12 Feb 2011 18:42:13 -0500, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:

I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a Group
31.

I don't want an RFI generator: I already have one.

I already have a few 13.8V 25A power supplies, one of which I would be
quite willing to "crank up" to a higher voltage to compensate for the
voltage drop in the control circuitry.

Something like the West Mountain Radio "Super PwrGate" (PG40S) would
work, although the automatic switch-over feature is not essential. That
device is intended for Gel-Cell and AGM batteries and not recommended
for flooded batteries -- absorption-charge voltage too low and
float-charge voltage too high, their tech support people tell me.

"Perce"

I am quite happy with my IOTA DLS-45 with the IQ Smart Controller

http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm

Once a week it equalizes my batteries using 14v pulses. The batteries are
on their 14th year and can still run my shack for 5 days. (down from a
week when I initially purchased the batteries and charger)

On 02/13/11 03:14 am, No Spam wrote:

I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a Group
31.

I don't want an RFI generator: I already have one.

I already have a few 13.8V 25A power supplies, one of which I would be
quite willing to "crank up" to a higher voltage to compensate for the
voltage drop in the control circuitry.

Something like the West Mountain Radio "Super PwrGate" (PG40S) would
work, although the automatic switch-over feature is not essential. That
device is intended for Gel-Cell and AGM batteries and not recommended
for flooded batteries -- absorption-charge voltage too low and
float-charge voltage too high, their tech support people tell me.

I am quite happy with my IOTA DLS-45 with the IQ Smart Controller

http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm

Once a week it equalizes my batteries using 14v pulses. The batteries are
on their 14th year and can still run my shack for 5 days. (down from a
week when I initially purchased the batteries and charger)

I wish I'd known about that IQ unit before I bought an Astron RS-35A
just a month or two back.

I was hoping I could find something not too expensive to take power from
that P/S or from one of my RF-quiet "switchers" to look after the
batteries. Texas Instruments has battery-charging ICs, but I haven't
seen a practical circuit that uses one.

"Perce"

Hey OT:

I used to charge a deep cycle flooded marine battery with the TI
UC3906
data sheet he http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/uc3906.pdf
all you need is a few precision pots and the low resistance resistor
you need to set the max charge current.
I had a 115AH deep cycle flooded marine battery that with a straight
no frills charge took 4 days to charge fully, tested by hydrometer
With 1 foot of 14 gauge wire for the max charge resistor and precision
10 turn pots to set the other settings, and a 30 amp PNP pass
transistor on a fan cooled heat sink I was able to charge that battery
in 8 hours full charge, then it goes to a maintain charge, not a
trickle charge.

Basically I was charging at 23 amps after the UC3906 checked that no
cells were bad, then once it gets to a predetermined voltage it scales
back the charge, all the levels for this are set by multiple precision
pots and you can take it thru 4 levels of charge. I had the max
setting for 15.5 volts when the battery was fully charged to roll back
to maintain charge.

You will need a unregulated 18 volt supply, because the PNP drops 4
volts in VSAT. and once it gets the battery up there in voltage, the
PNP doesn't need to be full on in VSAT

After using auto chargers and straight charges I found the UC3906 the
best choice over all.

There is a switch mode TI chip also but you don't want that one


Mouser stocks these last time I bought them it was like $4 each.




On Feb 12, 6:42*pm, "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a Group 31.

I don't want an RFI generator: I already have one.

I already have a few 13.8V 25A power supplies, one of which I would be
quite willing to "crank up" to a higher voltage to compensate for the
voltage drop in the control circuitry.

Something like the West Mountain Radio "Super PwrGate" (PG40S) would
work, although the automatic switch-over feature is not essential. That
device is intended for Gel-Cell and AGM batteries and not recommended
for flooded batteries -- absorption-charge voltage too low and
float-charge voltage too high, their tech support people tell me.

"Perce"

On 02/13/2011 08:17 AM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 02/13/11 03:14 am, No Spam wrote:

I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a Group
31.

I don't want an RFI generator: I already have one.

I already have a few 13.8V 25A power supplies, one of which I would be
quite willing to "crank up" to a higher voltage to compensate for the
voltage drop in the control circuitry.

Something like the West Mountain Radio "Super PwrGate" (PG40S) would
work, although the automatic switch-over feature is not essential. That
device is intended for Gel-Cell and AGM batteries and not recommended
for flooded batteries -- absorption-charge voltage too low and
float-charge voltage too high, their tech support people tell me.

I am quite happy with my IOTA DLS-45 with the IQ Smart Controller

http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm

Once a week it equalizes my batteries using 14v pulses. The batteries are
on their 14th year and can still run my shack for 5 days. (down from a
week when I initially purchased the batteries and charger)

I wish I'd known about that IQ unit before I bought an Astron RS-35A
just a month or two back.

I was hoping I could find something not too expensive to take power from
that P/S or from one of my RF-quiet "switchers" to look after the
batteries. Texas Instruments has battery-charging ICs, but I haven't
seen a practical circuit that uses one.

"Perce"



You do not need anything too fancy...
to "float" the batteries all you need to do is keep them at approx 2.25
volts / cell...so it's possible that your 13.8 v charger will do the job...

You can test it by checking the total voltage after a 24 hour period...

ideally, a 12v battery should float at about 13.5 volts.

If the float voltage is a little higher or lower it won't be too
critical...but make sure it's well below the 14.2 v gassing point.

I've been in the lead-acid battery business for 36 years...
so have quite a bit of long term empirical data

Hey OM:

All well and good but taking the battery up to 15.5volts is ok as long
as you keep adding water and have a well vented area to charge them
in. I tried a tested and true way of not going over 14.2 volts took to
long to get the full charge you can check it with a hydrometer and see
that best you can get is 80% of full charge going with 14.2 volts.

With a 18volt unregulated supply and the VSAT of 4 volts the max
charge current voltage can only be 14.00 volts period
you have to take it up to 15.5 volts to get the full charge period.
been there done that.

73 OM
de n8zu



On Feb 13, 3:36*pm, philo wrote:
On 02/13/2011 08:17 AM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:



On 02/13/11 03:14 am, No Spam wrote:

I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a Group
31.

I don't want an RFI generator: I already have one.

I already have a few 13.8V 25A power supplies, one of which I would be
quite willing to "crank up" to a higher voltage to compensate for the
voltage drop in the control circuitry.

Something like the West Mountain Radio "Super PwrGate" (PG40S) would
work, although the automatic switch-over feature is not essential. That
device is intended for Gel-Cell and AGM batteries and not recommended
for flooded batteries -- absorption-charge voltage too low and
float-charge voltage too high, their tech support people tell me.

I am quite happy with my IOTA DLS-45 with the IQ Smart Controller

http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm

Once a week it equalizes my batteries using 14v pulses. The batteries are
on their 14th year and can still run my shack for 5 days. (down from a
week when I initially purchased the batteries and charger)

I wish I'd known about that IQ unit before I bought an Astron RS-35A
just a month or two back.

I was hoping I could find something not too expensive to take power from
that P/S or from one of my RF-quiet "switchers" to look after the
batteries. Texas Instruments has battery-charging ICs, but I haven't
seen a practical circuit that uses one.

"Perce"

You do not need anything too fancy...
to "float" the batteries all you need to do is keep them at approx *2.25
volts / cell...so it's possible that your 13.8 v charger will do the job....

You can test it by checking the total voltage after a 24 hour period...

ideally, a 12v battery should float at about 13.5 volts.

If the float voltage is a little higher or lower it won't be too
critical...but make sure it's well below the 14.2 v gassing point.

I've been in the lead-acid battery business for 36 years...
so have quite a bit of long term empirical data

West Mountain Radio claims that their "Super PwrGate" has a voltage drop
of only 0.3V to 0.4V, so they can charge a Gel-Cell battery from a 13.8V
P/S or can handle an AGM battery simply by raising the P/S voltage to
14.1V. Any idea what they use for a pass transistor?

The "Micro M+" solar battery charger described in some recent editions
of the ARRL Handbook uses the STP80PF55 P-Channel MOSFET
(80 Amp, R[DSon] = 0.016 Ohm) as the control device. Could this be used
in conjunction with the UC3906 without too much difficulty?

"Perce"

On 02/13/11 03:35 pm, raypsi wrote:

I used to charge a deep cycle flooded marine battery with the TI
UC3906
data sheet he http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/uc3906.pdf
all you need is a few precision pots and the low resistance resistor
you need to set the max charge current.
I had a 115AH deep cycle flooded marine battery that with a straight
no frills charge took 4 days to charge fully, tested by hydrometer
With 1 foot of 14 gauge wire for the max charge resistor and precision
10 turn pots to set the other settings, and a 30 amp PNP pass
transistor on a fan cooled heat sink I was able to charge that battery
in 8 hours full charge, then it goes to a maintain charge, not a
trickle charge.

Basically I was charging at 23 amps after the UC3906 checked that no
cells were bad, then once it gets to a predetermined voltage it scales
back the charge, all the levels for this are set by multiple precision
pots and you can take it thru 4 levels of charge. I had the max
setting for 15.5 volts when the battery was fully charged to roll back
to maintain charge.

You will need a unregulated 18 volt supply, because the PNP drops 4
volts in VSAT. and once it gets the battery up there in voltage, the
PNP doesn't need to be full on in VSAT

After using auto chargers and straight charges I found the UC3906 the
best choice over all.

There is a switch mode TI chip also but you don't want that one


Mouser stocks these last time I bought them it was like $4 each.




On Feb 12, 6:42 pm, "Percival P. wrote:
I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a Group 31.

I don't want an RFI generator: I already have one.

I already have a few 13.8V 25A power supplies, one of which I would be
quite willing to "crank up" to a higher voltage to compensate for the
voltage drop in the control circuitry.

Something like the West Mountain Radio "Super PwrGate" (PG40S) would
work, although the automatic switch-over feature is not essential. That
device is intended for Gel-Cell and AGM batteries and not recommended
for flooded batteries -- absorption-charge voltage too low and
float-charge voltage too high, their tech support people tell me.

"Perce"

On 02/13/2011 03:05 PM, raypsi wrote:
Hey OM:

All well and good but taking the battery up to 15.5volts is ok as long
as you keep adding water and have a well vented area to charge them
in. I tried a tested and true way of not going over 14.2 volts took to
long to get the full charge you can check it with a hydrometer and see
that best you can get is 80% of full charge going with 14.2 volts.


That's the entire point of float charging a battery...
you do not have to add water and you do not have excess hydrogen
production...in "normal" charging...the battery voltage would rise to
approx 15volts during the last 20 minutes or so of charge

The OP specifically said he wanted to float charge



snip

On 02/13/11 03:36 pm, philo wrote:

I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a Group
31.

snip

You do not need anything too fancy...
to "float" the batteries all you need to do is keep them at approx 2.25
volts / cell...so it's possible that your 13.8 v charger will do the job...

You can test it by checking the total voltage after a 24 hour period...

ideally, a 12v battery should float at about 13.5 volts.

If the float voltage is a little higher or lower it won't be too
critical...but make sure it's well below the 14.2 v gassing point.

I've been in the lead-acid battery business for 36 years...
so have quite a bit of long term empirical data

The West Mountain Radio people told me that their "Super PwrGate"'s
13.5V float setting voltage (not adjustable) might be too high for a
flooded deep-cycle battery. Their user manual refers users to

www.windsun.com/batteries/battery_FAQ.htm

which recommends per-cell float voltages flooded deep-cycle batteries
that translate to 13.02V to 13.20V for a 6-cell battery.

"Perce"

Oops! I was writing from memory and got it wrong: West Mountain Radio
specify cranking the P/S up to 14.1V for Gel-Cells and to 14.5V for AGM
batteries -- to allow absorption-charge voltages of 13.8V and 14.2V,
respectively.

And the voltage drop is 0.25V to 0.5V, depending on current.

"Perce"


On 02/14/11 03:39 pm, I wrote:

West Mountain Radio claims that their "Super PwrGate" has a voltage drop
of only 0.3V to 0.4V, so they can charge a Gel-Cell battery from a 13.8V
P/S or can handle an AGM battery simply by raising the P/S voltage to
14.1V. Any idea what they use for a pass transistor?

The "Micro M+" solar battery charger described in some recent editions
of the ARRL Handbook uses the STP80PF55 P-Channel MOSFET
(80 Amp, R[DSon] = 0.016 Ohm) as the control device. Could this be used
in conjunction with the UC3906 without too much difficulty?

"Perce"

On 02/13/11 03:35 pm, raypsi wrote:

I used to charge a deep cycle flooded marine battery with the TI
UC3906
data sheet he http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/uc3906.pdf
all you need is a few precision pots and the low resistance resistor
you need to set the max charge current.
I had a 115AH deep cycle flooded marine battery that with a straight
no frills charge took 4 days to charge fully, tested by hydrometer
With 1 foot of 14 gauge wire for the max charge resistor and precision
10 turn pots to set the other settings, and a 30 amp PNP pass
transistor on a fan cooled heat sink I was able to charge that battery
in 8 hours full charge, then it goes to a maintain charge, not a
trickle charge.

Basically I was charging at 23 amps after the UC3906 checked that no
cells were bad, then once it gets to a predetermined voltage it scales
back the charge, all the levels for this are set by multiple precision
pots and you can take it thru 4 levels of charge. I had the max
setting for 15.5 volts when the battery was fully charged to roll back
to maintain charge.

You will need a unregulated 18 volt supply, because the PNP drops 4
volts in VSAT. and once it gets the battery up there in voltage, the
PNP doesn't need to be full on in VSAT

After using auto chargers and straight charges I found the UC3906 the
best choice over all.

There is a switch mode TI chip also but you don't want that one


Mouser stocks these last time I bought them it was like $4 each.




On Feb 12, 6:42 pm, "Percival P. wrote:
I'm looking for charger/maintainer -- either an off-the-shelf unit or a
schematic so I can build my own -- suitable for a flooded deep-cycle
battery, either a pair of 6V "golf cart" batteries in series or a
Group 31.

I don't want an RFI generator: I already have one.

I already have a few 13.8V 25A power supplies, one of which I would be
quite willing to "crank up" to a higher voltage to compensate for the
voltage drop in the control circuitry.

Something like the West Mountain Radio "Super PwrGate" (PG40S) would
work, although the automatic switch-over feature is not essential. That
device is intended for Gel-Cell and AGM batteries and not recommended
for flooded batteries -- absorption-charge voltage too low and
float-charge voltage too high, their tech support people tell me.

"Perce"