Paul Burridge wrote:
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:07:05 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


I've had mixed success with Hammerite on aluminium (alloy). It certainly
covers well, but in the longer term it tends to flake off aluminium
surfaces that had not been extremely well cleaned and de-greased before
painting. Since the object in question was a 12-yagi antenna array,
scrupulous cleaning of every square inch was not a practical option.

Why do you want to paint an antenna ?
If it is going to be outside, you may need to check out the airplane paint.

That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face,
filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or
risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me.
--

The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies.

Cyanide based?

Most of the better aircraft paints (for metal; fabic is different) are
polyurethane enamels. Polyurethane mists require masks, but an air
pump 30' away, hardly.

--
Jim Pennino

Remove -spam-sux to reply.

Paul Burridge wrote:
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 19:07:05 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


I've had mixed success with Hammerite on aluminium (alloy). It certainly
covers well, but in the longer term it tends to flake off aluminium
surfaces that had not been extremely well cleaned and de-greased before
painting. Since the object in question was a 12-yagi antenna array,
scrupulous cleaning of every square inch was not a practical option.

Why do you want to paint an antenna ?
If it is going to be outside, you may need to check out the airplane paint.

That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face,
filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or
risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me.
--

The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies.

Cyanide based?

Most of the better aircraft paints (for metal; fabic is different) are
polyurethane enamels. Polyurethane mists require masks, but an air
pump 30' away, hardly.

--
Jim Pennino

Remove -spam-sux to reply.

In article , wrote:

Cyanide based?

Yup - isocyanates.

Most of the better aircraft paints (for metal; fabic is different) are
polyurethane enamels. Polyurethane mists require masks, but an air
pump 30' away, hardly.

According to the MSDS, some of the Dupont Imron paint formulations
contain an isocyanate, or use an added isocyanate activator/hardener.
This also seems to be true for some of the two-part "linear
polyurethane" finishes from other manufacturers, as well. The
isocyanates can cause a permanent sensitization of the lungs - a
chemically-induced asthma. Think "Super-glue fumes, in giant
industrial-sized portions" and you're probably in the right ballpark.

For these formulas, the MSDS specifies the use of a positive-pressure,
supplied-air respirator. Filter-type masks are not adequate.

It looks as if some of the Imron paints don't use isocyanates, and an
air-purifying respirator with organic-vapor filter cartridges is
stated to be sufficient.

http://www.bronkalla.com/upkeep/spray_imron.htm is interesting
reading, written by a boat builder/refinisher who used used a clear
Imron above the waterline.

Sure looks as if this stuff is something to be _very_ careful with...
read the MSDS, follow the instructions, observe all precautions, etc.
The idea of shopping out the job to a local body-shop which is already
set up for it is a good one, if you can find one in your area.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

In article , wrote:

Cyanide based?

Yup - isocyanates.

Most of the better aircraft paints (for metal; fabic is different) are
polyurethane enamels. Polyurethane mists require masks, but an air
pump 30' away, hardly.

According to the MSDS, some of the Dupont Imron paint formulations
contain an isocyanate, or use an added isocyanate activator/hardener.
This also seems to be true for some of the two-part "linear
polyurethane" finishes from other manufacturers, as well. The
isocyanates can cause a permanent sensitization of the lungs - a
chemically-induced asthma. Think "Super-glue fumes, in giant
industrial-sized portions" and you're probably in the right ballpark.

For these formulas, the MSDS specifies the use of a positive-pressure,
supplied-air respirator. Filter-type masks are not adequate.

It looks as if some of the Imron paints don't use isocyanates, and an
air-purifying respirator with organic-vapor filter cartridges is
stated to be sufficient.

http://www.bronkalla.com/upkeep/spray_imron.htm is interesting
reading, written by a boat builder/refinisher who used used a clear
Imron above the waterline.

Sure looks as if this stuff is something to be _very_ careful with...
read the MSDS, follow the instructions, observe all precautions, etc.
The idea of shopping out the job to a local body-shop which is already
set up for it is a good one, if you can find one in your area.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

Paul Burridge wrote:

you may need to check out the airplane paint.

That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face,
filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or
risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me.
--

The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies.


Looks like the BBC's problem might be too much unlicensed amateur
competition :-)



--
73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)

http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Paul Burridge wrote:

you may need to check out the airplane paint.

That's the cyanide-based one, isn't it? He'll need a full-face,
filtered respirator with an air pump and inlet at least 30' away or
risk a sudden and very unpleasant death. Seems a bit OTT 2 me.
--

The BBC: Licensed at public expense to spread lies.


Looks like the BBC's problem might be too much unlicensed amateur
competition :-)



--
73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)

http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

"Roger Conroy" wrote in message
...

"Bill Turner" wrote in message
...
Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that
will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray
can?


Dip it in ferric chloride for a couple of seconds then rinse with water, it
will then take paint perfectly. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN TOO LONG AND TAKE CARE.
suggest doing this in an open space as it will react much faster than
copper.

"Roger Conroy" wrote in message
...

"Bill Turner" wrote in message
...
Does anyone have any suggestions for painting aluminum in a way that
will be tougher and longer-lasting than you get with the usual spray
can?


Dip it in ferric chloride for a couple of seconds then rinse with water, it
will then take paint perfectly. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN TOO LONG AND TAKE CARE.
suggest doing this in an open space as it will react much faster than
copper.