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#31
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Michael Black wrote:
Bob Monaghan ) writes: Wasn't there a recent historical article in QST on the role of the quartz xtal industry in WWII, how they figured out overtone osc. issues and so on? Given that some sources ask $12 and up for scanner and ham crystals, these costs add up rather fast if you need to replace a bunch of xtals in a scanner. So the search for alternatives seems quite worthwhile ;-) But they already figured out the solution, thirty years ago, and it did not require going to the quarry for quartz and digging out old QSTs. The need for a lot of crystals luckily coincided with digital ICs, so before most people could get around to paying for all the crystals to fill out a mult-channel unit, synthesizers came along so you only needed one crystal. About as soon as it could be done practically, hams built them and wrote up articles in the ham magazines. Anyone who decides to make their own crystals today, other than for the sake of doing so (and I admit it would be an interesting thing to try), will likely find they can't go for the subminiature look, and probably will find that putting effort into building a synthesizer still makes sense if you need more than a few crystals. Michael VE2BVW Absolutely: You should only make your own crystals for the same reasons you'd knap your own stone tools -- to understand how it was done back in the day, and to have some thing to show off to friends. You could get crystals much faster by cleaning toilets at McDonald's and buying them at $12 a pop than you could making them from scratch. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#32
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![]() "Bill Janssen" wrote in message ... Steve Nosko wrote: "H. Peter Friedrichs" wrote in message link.net... Hello, All: Rumor has it that QST featured an article in a January/1930 or January/1935 issue on the subject of homebrew transmitter crystals - how cut, lap, and mount them. If anyone has QST on CDROM for those years, I'd sure appreciate if you could take a look. Remove XXX's and ZZZ's if you wish to reply directly, and thanks. Pete AC7ZL Pete, I have my Dad's grinding stuff, but don't do it. One thing to keep in mind, and I don't know the details, but remember that the crystal activity is effected by the edges. Grinding the edges is one of the more esoteric aspects. The trick isn't the edges but keeping the two surfaces parallel and flat. The procedure is to grind a little and check the activity. If it is down try to grind the center or edges and check again. If it gets better then go back to to grinding and trying to keep it flat. Anyway that is the method I used. Bill K7NOM Sounds important, Bill, but my words may have been misunderstood. By edges I meant the end surfaces...as in ; stand the blank up on one edge - vertically - there are four of 'em. I don't remember if he said that the ends must be made to have a 90 degree angle with the faces or what. I just remember that he said that you grind these sides for best / better activity. I was not referring to the outer reaches of the two large faces as in; is the face flat or curved in some way. -- Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's. |
#33
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![]() "Bill Janssen" wrote in message ... Steve Nosko wrote: "H. Peter Friedrichs" wrote in message link.net... Hello, All: Rumor has it that QST featured an article in a January/1930 or January/1935 issue on the subject of homebrew transmitter crystals - how cut, lap, and mount them. If anyone has QST on CDROM for those years, I'd sure appreciate if you could take a look. Remove XXX's and ZZZ's if you wish to reply directly, and thanks. Pete AC7ZL Pete, I have my Dad's grinding stuff, but don't do it. One thing to keep in mind, and I don't know the details, but remember that the crystal activity is effected by the edges. Grinding the edges is one of the more esoteric aspects. The trick isn't the edges but keeping the two surfaces parallel and flat. The procedure is to grind a little and check the activity. If it is down try to grind the center or edges and check again. If it gets better then go back to to grinding and trying to keep it flat. Anyway that is the method I used. Bill K7NOM Sounds important, Bill, but my words may have been misunderstood. By edges I meant the end surfaces...as in ; stand the blank up on one edge - vertically - there are four of 'em. I don't remember if he said that the ends must be made to have a 90 degree angle with the faces or what. I just remember that he said that you grind these sides for best / better activity. I was not referring to the outer reaches of the two large faces as in; is the face flat or curved in some way. -- Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's. |
#34
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Michael,
I'm interested in "extreme" homebrew for its own sake. I simply like it. http://www.mindspring.com/~pfriedr/b...ry/gallery.htm http://www.mindspring.com/~pfriedr/b...ry/gallery.htm Pete AC7ZL "Michael Black" wrote in message ... Bob Monaghan ) writes: Wasn't there a recent historical article in QST on the role of the quartz xtal industry in WWII, how they figured out overtone osc. issues and so on? Given that some sources ask $12 and up for scanner and ham crystals, these costs add up rather fast if you need to replace a bunch of xtals in a scanner. So the search for alternatives seems quite worthwhile ;-) But they already figured out the solution, thirty years ago, and it did not require going to the quarry for quartz and digging out old QSTs. The need for a lot of crystals luckily coincided with digital ICs, so before most people could get around to paying for all the crystals to fill out a mult-channel unit, synthesizers came along so you only needed one crystal. About as soon as it could be done practically, hams built them and wrote up articles in the ham magazines. Anyone who decides to make their own crystals today, other than for the sake of doing so (and I admit it would be an interesting thing to try), will likely find they can't go for the subminiature look, and probably will find that putting effort into building a synthesizer still makes sense if you need more than a few crystals. Michael VE2BVW |
#35
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Michael,
I'm interested in "extreme" homebrew for its own sake. I simply like it. http://www.mindspring.com/~pfriedr/b...ry/gallery.htm http://www.mindspring.com/~pfriedr/b...ry/gallery.htm Pete AC7ZL "Michael Black" wrote in message ... Bob Monaghan ) writes: Wasn't there a recent historical article in QST on the role of the quartz xtal industry in WWII, how they figured out overtone osc. issues and so on? Given that some sources ask $12 and up for scanner and ham crystals, these costs add up rather fast if you need to replace a bunch of xtals in a scanner. So the search for alternatives seems quite worthwhile ;-) But they already figured out the solution, thirty years ago, and it did not require going to the quarry for quartz and digging out old QSTs. The need for a lot of crystals luckily coincided with digital ICs, so before most people could get around to paying for all the crystals to fill out a mult-channel unit, synthesizers came along so you only needed one crystal. About as soon as it could be done practically, hams built them and wrote up articles in the ham magazines. Anyone who decides to make their own crystals today, other than for the sake of doing so (and I admit it would be an interesting thing to try), will likely find they can't go for the subminiature look, and probably will find that putting effort into building a synthesizer still makes sense if you need more than a few crystals. Michael VE2BVW |
#36
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Jack/All
Thanks very much for the tips. I have already decided to purchase the QST's I'm looking for on CDROM. I wonder if CQ offers back issues in electronic format...I'd have to bop over to their web site and see. Pete AC7ZL "J. Yazel" wrote in message ... On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 21:29:32 GMT, "H. Peter Friedrichs" wrote: Hello, All: Rumor has it that QST featured an article in a January/1930 or January/1935 issue on the subject of homebrew transmitter crystals - how cut, lap, and mount them. If anyone has QST on CDROM for those years, I'd sure appreciate if you could take a look. Remove XXX's and ZZZ's if you wish to reply directly, and thanks. Pete AC7ZL ============================ Here's a few more pointers: CQ 01/49 p. 37 Grinding xtals simplified CQ 11/57 p. 74 How to grind xtals CQ 10/65 p. 52 Grinding surplus xtals QST 02/54 p. 45 Using grid-dipper as aid to xtal grinding QST 06/58 p. 19 Grinding xtals Jack W8RAG |
#37
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Jack/All
Thanks very much for the tips. I have already decided to purchase the QST's I'm looking for on CDROM. I wonder if CQ offers back issues in electronic format...I'd have to bop over to their web site and see. Pete AC7ZL "J. Yazel" wrote in message ... On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 21:29:32 GMT, "H. Peter Friedrichs" wrote: Hello, All: Rumor has it that QST featured an article in a January/1930 or January/1935 issue on the subject of homebrew transmitter crystals - how cut, lap, and mount them. If anyone has QST on CDROM for those years, I'd sure appreciate if you could take a look. Remove XXX's and ZZZ's if you wish to reply directly, and thanks. Pete AC7ZL ============================ Here's a few more pointers: CQ 01/49 p. 37 Grinding xtals simplified CQ 11/57 p. 74 How to grind xtals CQ 10/65 p. 52 Grinding surplus xtals QST 02/54 p. 45 Using grid-dipper as aid to xtal grinding QST 06/58 p. 19 Grinding xtals Jack W8RAG |
#38
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Steve Nosko wrote:
"Bill Janssen" wrote in message ... Steve Nosko wrote: "H. Peter Friedrichs" wrote in message thlink.net... Hello, All: Rumor has it that QST featured an article in a January/1930 or January/1935 issue on the subject of homebrew transmitter crystals - how cut, lap, and mount them. If anyone has QST on CDROM for those years, I'd sure appreciate if you could take a look. Remove XXX's and ZZZ's if you wish to reply directly, and thanks. Pete AC7ZL Pete, I have my Dad's grinding stuff, but don't do it. One thing to keep in mind, and I don't know the details, but remember that the crystal activity is effected by the edges. Grinding the edges is one of the more esoteric aspects. The trick isn't the edges but keeping the two surfaces parallel and flat. The procedure is to grind a little and check the activity. If it is down try to grind the center or edges and check again. If it gets better then go back to to grinding and trying to keep it flat. Anyway that is the method I used. Bill K7NOM Sounds important, Bill, but my words may have been misunderstood. By edges I meant the end surfaces...as in ; stand the blank up on one edge - vertically - there are four of 'em. I don't remember if he said that the ends must be made to have a 90 degree angle with the faces or what. I just remember that he said that you grind these sides for best / better activity. I was not referring to the outer reaches of the two large faces as in; is the face flat or curved in some way. I understood what you meant. Just never considered that important. Maybe that is something I missed. Bill K7NOM |
#39
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Steve Nosko wrote:
"Bill Janssen" wrote in message ... Steve Nosko wrote: "H. Peter Friedrichs" wrote in message thlink.net... Hello, All: Rumor has it that QST featured an article in a January/1930 or January/1935 issue on the subject of homebrew transmitter crystals - how cut, lap, and mount them. If anyone has QST on CDROM for those years, I'd sure appreciate if you could take a look. Remove XXX's and ZZZ's if you wish to reply directly, and thanks. Pete AC7ZL Pete, I have my Dad's grinding stuff, but don't do it. One thing to keep in mind, and I don't know the details, but remember that the crystal activity is effected by the edges. Grinding the edges is one of the more esoteric aspects. The trick isn't the edges but keeping the two surfaces parallel and flat. The procedure is to grind a little and check the activity. If it is down try to grind the center or edges and check again. If it gets better then go back to to grinding and trying to keep it flat. Anyway that is the method I used. Bill K7NOM Sounds important, Bill, but my words may have been misunderstood. By edges I meant the end surfaces...as in ; stand the blank up on one edge - vertically - there are four of 'em. I don't remember if he said that the ends must be made to have a 90 degree angle with the faces or what. I just remember that he said that you grind these sides for best / better activity. I was not referring to the outer reaches of the two large faces as in; is the face flat or curved in some way. I understood what you meant. Just never considered that important. Maybe that is something I missed. Bill K7NOM |
#40
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![]() "Bill Janssen" wrote in message ... Steve Nosko wrote: I was not referring to the outer reaches of the two large faces as in; is the face flat or curved in some way. I understood what you meant. Just never considered that important. Maybe that is something I missed. Bill K7NOM Unfortunately, Dad went in the blink of an eye. I'm glad for him, but I didn't have the chance to talk, ask questions or say goodby. -- Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's. |
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